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Suzuki GP100- rust in tank...

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killa
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PostPosted: 07:32 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Suzuki GP100- rust in tank... Reply with quote

I’m having problems with fuelling on the GP100. I’m sure it’s due to the massive amount of crap (rust) coming through from the tank. It’s clogging up the filter and it’s inside the carb.

The guy did mention to me the inside of the tank was an issue, and that you can buy something that will coat the inside of it, or something.
I’ve never had experience with this sort of thing. So I’m guessing you empty the tank, throw this stuff in, then what?? Thinking
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 08:24 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

do it this way.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2773684

or the electrolysis method:

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=1995967/
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killa
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PostPosted: 08:36 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that bud, got no karma to give but i will when i get it again. Thumbs Up
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing never knew there was a limit to karma.

Interesting to see your a CAD technician, working with AutoCad? What field are you involved in? Sorry to ask off topic, as I haven't seen anyone else on here that works in the same profession as me!
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killa
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PostPosted: 09:18 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:
Laughing never knew there was a limit to karma.

Interesting to see your a CAD technician, working with AutoCad? What field are you involved in? Sorry to ask off topic, as I haven't seen anyone else on here that works in the same profession as me!


Yeah, seems to be a daily limit. I dish out karma all over the place.

AutoCAD Technician mate. Over 6 years on CAD, now I’m using Inventor 2010. Doing mechanical engineering right now. What’s your area?
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 10:12 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

AutoCAD Technician then moved on to Vectorworks in the Architectural metalwork field ie stairs, balustrades, balconies, wall rails , cat ladders. Been doing over 4 years and studied HNC mechanical engineering.

Your doing mechanical engineering and autocad designs? I'm so in the wrong field! Whats your field in design? Construction? Sounds you got the job I wanted! Surprised
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Robby
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vinegar will do the job a bit. Hot phosphoric acid will do the job properly.

Have a look at Nowhere_Elysium's thread in show and tell, I did a little write up on de-rusting a tank with phosphoric acid in that thread.

From experience doing a tank of a similar size to yours, and very rusty, you'll need 2 litres of acid and the rest boiling water. Get a gallon of acid, you'll find other uses for it. Can be re-used as well.
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killa
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:
AutoCAD Technician then moved on to Vectorworks in the Architectural metalwork field ie stairs, balustrades, balconies, wall rails , cat ladders. Been doing over 4 years and studied HNC mechanical engineering.

Your doing mechanical engineering and autocad designs? I'm so in the wrong field! Whats your field in design? Construction? Sounds you got the job I wanted! Surprised


I’ve moved from AutoCAD to Inventor doing mechanical design. It’s on drilling equipment, to be honest i’d prefer a different area of engineering. But you can’t have it all can you.
I’d really like to be into more free design work like interiors etc.
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killa
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PostPosted: 11:14 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Vinegar will do the job a bit. Hot phosphoric acid will do the job properly.


Cheers Robby. I’ll have a look over that. What sort of acid are we on about and where do i find it?
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koolio
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a lot of info and a number of methods of de-rusting but hardly anything on what you actually use or do to proof the inside of a tank afterwards?

People say Kreem is a rubbish solution to this but thats the only product I can really find?
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

*** COUGH***


https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=225331
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 22 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there anywhere near you that can chemicaly dip the tank? It will need repaintin after but should be clean bare steel afterwards,

I have been told that resin sealing fuel tanks is no longer an option anymore because of the increased ethernol content in fuel melting the resin.
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killa
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PostPosted: 07:43 - 26 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a quick update on this little issue. Thumbs Up
I decided to go with the vinegar option after reading on here and seeing some results from a youtube video. I have also bought some petseal (sp?) but not sure if i need it now.

I picked up around 7L of malt vinegar, shook out what i could from the tank and filled her up. I would advise anyone doing this to remember that gaffa tape isn’t going to be good enough for the seal really. I ended up using a rubber nitrile glove i use for working on the bikes and shoved tissue in there. It formed a really good seal like that.
Around 20 hours in the tank i shook it around, pour it out and then used my power washer to rid the tank of the last remaining bits. Using a hairdryer to sort the damp, it’s now ready to be fitted. Personally i don’t think i need the petseal on there, it’s come out really good.
Would any of you recommend i do use it anyway, or sell it and get my dollar back?
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