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Derust & painting my tank

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Bucky
Nova Slayer



Joined: 16 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 09 Jul 2011    Post subject: Derust & painting my tank Reply with quote

Got up today armed with wet & dry and primers to tackle the rust on my petrol tank.
As soon as I got outside took the cover off the bike, started chucking it down! Evil or Very Mad

So I'll research the next step while rain stops play.

I've got some Upol Acid Etch Primer & some Halfords White Primer.

I'm thinking of ordering some White Base & Silver Pearl spray cans from Specialist Paints.com. Anyone ever used / heard anything about them? Good Quality?
Unless anyone knows where I can get my hands on the specific pearlescent white paints for a 1999 Suzuki GSX-R600 (SRAD)?

The rust on the tank is where the riders seat has rubbed the paint off the tank & 2 rust patches have appeared one either side. Am I right in thinking...

    - Remove rust
    - Paint bare metal with Acid Etch
    - Key acid etch & a small surrounding area
    - White Primer
    - Wet & Dry
    - White Base Coat
    - Silver Pearl
    - Petrol Proof Lacquer


I'm going to add some rubber to the seat edge to stop it stripping paint again.
Since its the bottom rear of the tank & not a highly visible area it's also gonna serve as a test area before I repair my scuffed fairings.Smile
Any tips would be appriciated Thumbs Up
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Last edited by Bucky on 22:27 - 27 Nov 2012; edited 4 times in total
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 17:08 - 09 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't help with painting advice, my painting is terrible, but I can with the rust. Don't paint something over the rust, sand it back to bare clean metal then get the etch primer over it.
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Bucky
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 15 Jul 2011    Post subject: The Rust Reply with quote

Removed the seat to get a better view of the rust...
https://img7.imageshack.us/img7/8181/rust1u.jpg
https://img824.imageshack.us/img824/5640/rust2.jpg
https://img851.imageshack.us/img851/7428/rust3t.jpg
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Bucky
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 15 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Robby! Thumbs Up

I've sanded of the rust with P240 Wet & Dry, was the most coarse paper I had. Do I need to ruff up the surface with some coarser stuff to get the best adhesion with the etch primer?

https://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2271/removed0.jpg

Getting there...
https://img855.imageshack.us/img855/7379/removed1.jpg
https://img189.imageshack.us/img189/7875/removed2.jpg

More sanding plus cleaned up...
https://img23.imageshack.us/img23/529/removed3.jpg
https://img845.imageshack.us/img845/3657/removed4.jpg

That was last night todays been high chance of showers & the weekends looking no better, not good painting weather! Evil or Very Mad
Also theirs slight pitting to the metal on the LHS so more sanding is required.

So I've left a film of oil over the exposed bare metal to protect it & the whole bikes back under cover. Now the waiting game.Sleeping

Anyone got any idea if Halfords be able to mix up some '99 GSX-R600 Pearlescent White paint for me? I hear its about 3 different layers of paint for the effect.

All the info on the paint I have is...
    1999-GSXR600X-GSXR 600
    Factory Colour: Pearl Still White/Deep Pearl Blue
    Factory Code: L99 Combo (0JW/1LF)
    Bike-Paint Top: 4230/4265
    Bike-Paint Base: 1303/None




Also I've been told just to Acid Etch Primer. I'll keep my can of 2K White Primer for my fairings Smile
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ZRX61
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Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 06:15 - 17 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bucky wrote:

So I've left a film of oil over the exposed bare metal to protect it

That wasn't a good idea..
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finpos
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 17 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the proviso that what you've done is probably good enough, you've not got all the rust off. All the black stuff has to go, including the bits around the edge of the paint - the rust creeps outwards and under the paint so I'd guess you've still got another few mm to go. Poke the paint with a sharp screwdriver near the edge of the damage and it'll flake off. It'll stop flaking off when you reach sound metal.

The trouble is you've been rubbing it away with sandpaper and it's not getting any better, that being because the rust in now in pits. You can either use a dremel with a fine pointed tool to get it out or keep dousing it in rust killer and use a small wire brush (it will a very boring couple of hours to do that). I'd be a bit wary of using a dremel on petrol tank in case it's perforated.

Halfords will unfortunately look at you blankly if you give them bike paint codes!

f.
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Bucky
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 17 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
With the proviso that what you've done is probably good enough, you've not got all the rust off. All the black stuff has to go, including the bits around the edge of the paint - the rust creeps outwards and under the paint so I'd guess you've still got another few mm to go. Poke the paint with a sharp screwdriver near the edge of the damage and it'll flake off. It'll stop flaking off when you reach sound metal.

...

Halfords will unfortunately look at you blankly if you give them bike paint codes!

f.


Thanks mate Thumbs Up I know I've way more sanding ahead of me just gotta wait for the sunshine. If only I had a garage!
I thought that might be the case with halfords Neutral

ZRX61 wrote:
That wasn't a good idea..

How so?
It was my understanding that it would protect the bare metal temporarily.
As long as its all completely cleaned off before priming I wasn't aware of a problem?
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Have you ever seen a guy on a unicycle?..."
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 18 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
With the proviso that what you've done is probably good enough, you've not got all the rust off. All the black stuff has to go,


It's likely the *black stuff* is black magnatite resulting from some chemical conversion of the rust? & if that's the case it's just fine.
If you haven't used a chem process, go buy some SEM RustMort & use that on the rust.




..& the reason the oil wasn't a good idea? It's unlikely you'l get it all off...
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 18 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:

Halfords will unfortunately look at you blankly if you give them bike paint codes!

f.


Thats interesting. They did me an R157 italian red for my vfr a couple of weeks ago so maybe they've upgraded their systems? The colour was a perfect match but if youre using aerosols the cans are unfortunately pretty shit.

Good luck with the tank. I hate painting but just cant stop doing it cause of my ocd Rolling Eyes
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finpos
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 18 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

flumpy7 wrote:

Thats interesting. They did me an R157 italian red for my vfr a couple of weeks ago so maybe they've upgraded their systems? The colour was a perfect match but if youre using aerosols the cans are unfortunately pretty shit.


Fair chance - it's a while since I've asked now I think of it!

f.
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Bucky
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 23 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm now wearing a new fragrance... I call it Eau De Petrol!

Crying or Very sad As I nearly finished sanding the right hand since completely back to bare metal none of the black areas seen before. I thought I'd make a start on the left hand side....
sand, sand, sand, blow off dust, sand, sand, smell petrol! Shit!!!! area being sanded starts to look wet very strong smell of petrol, Shit, Shit SHIT!

My tanks pissing expensive petrol very slowly out of a pin hole leak! Turns out it was rust holding together & sealing my petrol tank!!!
Panic stations! towel to soak up petrol, battery out, lent against a wall to raise the hole as high as possible while I speed read the Haynes Manual to remove the tank. Got the tank off v speedily, hopefully I can remember how to put one back on when the time comes! Drained the petrol to a jerry can and now letting any remaining fuel evaporate from the tank!

Are leaky tanks repairable or shall I hunt for a 2nd hand one? A brand new tank is £686.47 on Robinsons Foundry Neutral


Pics to come later, since she's now in such a state of disassembly I'm thinking of doing a major resto, rather than buying a cheap winter hack to learn bike mechanics on Smile
Silver lining is i've 9 litres of petrol (loads more than I thought I'd left) and the air filters in v good nik so one less thing to buy. Laughing
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"You know, they say that, the wheel is the greatest invention ever. But I think it's probably the second wheel, because . . .
Have you ever seen a guy on a unicycle?..."
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finpos
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 23 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was bound to happen Smile

The tank looks pretty good, you should try to fix it. When they are rusted all over they usually have dozens of pinholes waiting to let go.
You should also take a peek inside make sure it's not too rusty.

The easiest way to fix it is to use some petrol-proof epoxy or to braise it. If you're braising it make very sure indeed there's no fuel vapour inside.

f.
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Bucky
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 23 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
It was bound to happen Smile

The tank looks pretty good, you should try to fix it. When they are rusted all over they usually have dozens of pinholes waiting to let go.
You should also take a peek inside make sure it's not too rusty.

The easiest way to fix it is to use some petrol-proof epoxy or to braise it. If you're braising it make very sure indeed there's no fuel vapour inside.

f.


Thanks for the help mate Thumbs Up I'll look into getting it fixed. One on fleabay looks a similar condition as mine before I started sanding, minus the dent his has & he want's £45+!! One nice looking white one, but that's already had a full respray by the looks of it.

Found some more coarse sandpaper, as the wet & dry I was using before was too fine for this stage of the prep work. Here's the pics of my day

Right hand side after hours of sanding, probably lost more layers of my thumb than nanometres of metal removed Laughing
https://img849.imageshack.us/img849/6997/rhs.jpg

Left hand side of my tank. Started Sanding then smelt petrol and it started to leak extremely slowly!
https://img694.imageshack.us/img694/6835/lhs1.jpg

Propped against a wall to get the hole as high as possible, while I speed read the Haynes manual looking how to remove the tank
https://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1582/wallgl.jpg

Success tank removed v quickly, hopefully I can work out how to put one back on as I was did it as fast as possible not noting the routing of wires, etc
https://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4318/notank1.jpg

Removed tank
https://img688.imageshack.us/img688/3549/tankl.jpg

Drained the petrol into a jerry can, V messy! Letting any remaining petrol evaporate from the tank. I'm now wearing a new fragrance of Eau De Petrol! Laughing
https://img713.imageshack.us/img713/3607/empty.jpg
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Have you ever seen a guy on a unicycle?..."
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UKRedwing
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 15 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 23 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taking off and putting tank back on is not complicated lol..
One pipe from tap to crankcase (The thinner one, vaccum hose)
One pipe to the carbs (Obviously the thicker pipe with the fuel filter on it)
Then just the electric connection for the fuel pump.

Looks a very tidy SRAD btw Thumbs Up
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Bucky
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 25 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

UKRedwing wrote:
Taking off and putting tank back on is not complicated lol..
One pipe from tap to crankcase (The thinner one, vaccum hose)
One pipe to the carbs (Obviously the thicker pipe with the fuel filter on it)
Then just the electric connection for the fuel pump.

Looks a very tidy SRAD btw Thumbs Up


I was surprised how easy it was to remove Smile , it just said in the Haynes manual take note of the routing of cables & hoses so nothing snags/ gets trapped when you put it back. Seems very simple tho.

Thanks mate Thumbs Up , sadly the side fairings let is down at the moment, which is why their off in the pics so I can filler & paint the scuffs.

Looks like a friend can braise it for me, taking it round on Wednesday Mr. Green
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D O G
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 25 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I once had that paint made up into rattle cans - not from Halfords but a specialist supplier.

It was a base, then a pearl, then a clearcoat ontop.

It did result in a nice match, but was rather a soft finish, and chipped easily. I suspect it will wear quickly on a tank.

ZRX can clarify, but maybe it may be worth painting with the rattle cans 1st to get the color right, then passing the tank over to a proper painters so they can put a hard lacquer on - i.e. properly 'baked' or whatever they do to them.

They may not want to, however, given the fact that they've not done the underlying paint job.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 20:14 - 26 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:
ZRX can clarify, but maybe it may be worth painting with the rattle cans 1st to get the color right, then passing the tank over to a proper painters so they can put a hard lacquer on - i.e. properly 'baked' or whatever they do to them.


Fuck that, I wouldn't touch it seeing as Brainiac already sanded through the tank...
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koolio
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You must have sanded too hard in one spot or there was a crack there already that you aggravated.

In hindsight I wouldn't have sanded the tank to get rid of rust I'd be using another method.

I was talking to a painter who does cars told me it's better to use a pro rotary sander lightly if wanting to strip the whole tank of paint for the very reason of what you did.

Let us know how you are doing I believe you will have to visit a welder.


Last edited by koolio on 15:37 - 27 Jul 2011; edited 1 time in total
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finpos
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PostPosted: 15:12 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually just lolled.

Bloke asks about how to go about removing rust and how to make localised repair to affected area. This its obviously insane because the correct way to fix this is to buy a new tank then send it to a professional shop for painting which would undoubtedly result in a better looking and more hard wearing finish. We can only speculate why he would not want to do that.

Regardless, the advice proffered:
1. Leave the rust.
2. Remove all the good paint.

F.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
I actually just lolled.

Bloke asks about how to go about removing rust and how to make localised repair to affected area. This its obviously insane because the correct way to fix this is to buy a new tank then send it to a professional shop for painting which would undoubtedly result in a better looking and more hard wearing finish. We can only speculate why he would not want to do that.

Regardless, the advice proffered:
1. Leave the rust.
2. Remove all the good paint.

F.


I lolled reading your comments.

It's only two small points on the tank, that are not even that obvious or visible being next to/under the seat?

So you're going to spend all that money on a new tank and a pro paint job for two spots you can't even see with the seat on that should be white, when you could really sort it out for maybe £20 max ???

Don't see how the finish would be that bad if you corrected it, and for the tiny annoyance of not being absolutely perfect (how many painters/decal people get it perfect anyhow) would not cost £400.

You're a Genius!


Last edited by koolio on 20:37 - 27 Jul 2011; edited 1 time in total
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finpos
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was being sarcastic about the new tank.

f.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
I was being sarcastic about the new tank.

f.


oops Rolling Eyes
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