Changing fork seals

[huskie69]

This bike's costing me a bloody fortune!

Just noticed a nice coating of oil on my left fork stanchion above the seal. Wiped it off, took it for a quick ride and it's coated again. Also clipped a pothole and instead of the usual soft bouncyness there was a nice clunk.

I've done a quick search on here and seen a few suggestions which I'll try tonight (involving slipping a feeler gauge down- I'm guessing to dislodge any particles?)

If that doesn't do the trick then I can grab a set of seals for 7 squids but I've read it's a pretty big job and a mechanic will probably be looking to charge at least £90 (3 hours work?)

I'm considering doing it myself but I'm wondering what the best method is to do it. Firstly, I don't have a front paddock stand but I'm not sure I need one as the forks are being removed too. How would I secure the bike, remove the front wheel, and remove the forks too? Rope suspended from ceiling and hooked onto bike frame? Scratching my head trying to work this one out as there's gotta be an easier way! How would the mechanics do it?
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'10 Skyjet SJ125-23 - Crashed > '09 YBR 125 > '53 Suzuki SV650 - Died > 2010 Suzuki VanVan 125 > '87 Yamaha FZ750 Sold > VTR 1000 FireStorm - Sold > Honda CB1000R

[MickC]

Does it have a main stand? If so, put it on it, remove the belly pan and place a jack under the front of the engine (with a block of wood between it and the casings) and jack it up. Place a good piece of wood ( 4"/2"/18") under the casing just behind the jack, then place bricks or more wood under it at the ends, slowly lower it onto it (the front wheel wants to be just of the ground by an inch or so no more,
If it doesnt have a center stand have someone hold it upright whilst you do it.
A good tip, however, before you do this is slacken the forks assembly bolts ( NOT THE ONES THAT CLAMP THEM TO THE HEADSTOCK ). in particular any bolt that is at the bottom of the forks as these tend to be the hardest ones to release, make sure all tools used are a good fit, you don't want to be rounding anything off. Then drain fork all and jack it up.......
Almost forgot, unbolt the calippers before you jack it up, they tend to be torqued up and slacken the mud gaurd fastenings.
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[huskie69]

Thanks Mick. Just the sidestand unfortunately and I'd be doing it solo so no help with supporting it while it's jacked up. I do have a rear paddock stand. Would this and a jack in the middle be enough to keep it stable?

Also, just come across this https://www.corporatesuspension.com/services/how-to/forks.php which makes it look pretty simple - but I still can't figure out how the hell they take the forks off if the front of the bike is supported at the bottom of the forks? Even the photos show this. Apparently, once everything has been loosed, the fork assembly will just slide out. I must be missing something here coz again, the front stand would be supporting the front end!...
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'10 Skyjet SJ125-23 - Crashed > '09 YBR 125 > '53 Suzuki SV650 - Died > 2010 Suzuki VanVan 125 > '87 Yamaha FZ750 Sold > VTR 1000 FireStorm - Sold > Honda CB1000R

[MickC]

When ever i've done it (old honda so lots! ) the bike has been on the back wheel and the blocks (the center stand is just clear of the ground). You can do it by yourself, i usually do, just have all bolcks ready, jack it up slowly with one hand and keep hold of one end of the handle bars to steady the bike. If you use a rear paddock stand you are going to have to jack the front up higher to get the wheel to clear the ground.
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Previous: CG125,XS250 (converted to 400),Z250A, GPZ550, Norton Commando, XS500, 78 Laverda Jota, GPZ1100,Harris bonneville, XV750 (mono shock),TR1

[craigT19]

Hi

Are u absolutely sure your seal has gone? Its failr normal for there to be some oil on the fork stanchion especially if the bikes a few years old?

If the seals gone you would normally see oil running down the back of the fork slider on to your break caliper ect.

The clunk you had probably doesnt point to anything wrong, your forks can only react so fast, get a pot whole at the wrong angle or slighly deep and it can rattle the stearing stem in the head race bearings giving a clunk, either than or a little bit of play in your fork bush's again not summin to worry about unless its excessive.

Craig
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Bikes owned :- 2001 nsr125, 1999 zx6r, 2006 yzf-r1, 2009 xmax 250, 2012 yzf-r1, 2015 MT-07
Current bike : - 2016 MT-10
BCF member pops. sadly missed 1945-2003

[huskie69]

[Raffles]

Forget the feeler guage trick. It's an old wives tail and it doesn't work. As for raising the front end you could put the bike in gear, securely chock the rear wheel, lean the bike over on the sidestand so that the front wheel is raised off the ground and then use a suitable piece of wood or similar to prop the bike up. Do make sure that all fasteners have been loosened prior to doing this though.
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A good loser will always be a loser.

[jjdugen]

Your idea of a rope from a ceiling beam is absolutely correct, unlike all the other cockamenie ideas suggested here.
On the cheap, a ratchet strap will do the job, but a cheap whinch is better and an electric hoist is the real way to go. Use some nylon rope around the headstock. This is an absolute godsend for front end work on bikes without centerstands and will pay for itself over and again if you are going to be working on your bike. Having the bike virtical AND secure makes general servicing far more comfortable and safe.

[MickC]

[craigT19]

[Rogerborg]

[Suntan Sid]

To be honest I thought the "old wives" always reccomended some 35mm camera film rather than a feeler gauge!
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"Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"

[totalllama82]

[Ted]

When I took the forks off of my 125 (previous owner had overtightened and rounded off the fork assembly bolts, but it was easier to take the forks to the garage, instead of the bike!), I stuck the back up on a rear paddock stand (only paid about £20 off eBay), and hung the front end from a beam in the garage. Wish I thought about a ratchet strap at the time, as I had to lift the front of the bike with one hand, and tie the rope with the other!

I've never tried, or even heard of, the feeler gauge/35mm film idea, but if you have to replace them anyway I guess its worth a shot?

[P.addy]

I am doing my GSXR front end as I type this..

I jacked the bike up with a car jack using a flat piece of metal and a piece of wood on the jack and raised it using the exhaust.

It was raised up enough to mount on 2 solid metal bars which are resting on axle stands for the car.

Its high enough off the floor for me to slide the forks out.

Just a quick one, loosen the front wheel before you raise it and get it settled I didnt

[Rogerborg]

Oh, sure, use some thin plastic. I just used a feeler gauge because it was the closest approximation to hand, I assumed the seal was beyond saving anyway and didn't really believe that it would work (it did). Sorry, I don't remember the size of gauge: it was "about 35mm film thickness".
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Nick 50]

[skatefreak]

I did the forks on my NSR 2 nights ago.
I WISH I had somewhere to lash it up but needed the bike for work and the MOT depended on it!
I put it on its side stand, in gear and jacked it up under the engine with a car jack and a bunch of tools on the seat to keep the back wheel down.
Loosened Everything before I lifted the bike and got the forks done in under an hour + fags/coffee (but the nsr forks are easy to work on).

Absoloutly worried the crap out of me thinking the bike could go over and i even lifted the bike off the jack at one point (pushing one of the forks back in... impatient i know..) so if you have the opportunity to lash it up... go for it!

Best regards

-Jvr

[Fizzer Thou]

I have been using the 'car jack under a length of wood under the exhaust' for years and it works fine.
https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Picture462.jpg
If you place a piece of wood under the jack as well,then you can strap the bike down onto this so as to stop it from toppling over.

One other suggestion is to loosen the top yoke clamp bolts and loosen the fork top caps before you remove the forks from the yokes.It is a lot easier to do the fork caps on the bike than off.

This is a good tool to own if you have several differant bikes.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/laser-4878-motorcycle-fork-seal-driver-35-50mm
When it was first advertised I bought it on the assumption that it would do the fork seals on my KTM which are 48mm.But in reality,and the website is wrong,this tool only goes up to 45mm,not 50mm.I have brought this to my local branches attention,but the website has not as yet been changed.

The 20' feeler gauge trick does work when dislodging debris from between the fork leg and the seal - just not every time.I have used this trick a number of times and it has helped when there has been insufficient time to replace the fork seals just before a road trip.

While the forks are out it is a good opportunity to check that there is sufficient grease on the head race bearings and to check the tightness of the top castellated nut that sits under the top yoke.
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Raffles]

[Fizzer Thou]

The home page has,but not the link that I posted.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'