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Buying a used CBR 600f advice

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YourMumRang
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Buying a used CBR 600f advice Reply with quote

Hi all!

I've been to see this bike:

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180719147920&category=9806&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619#ht_693wt_1139

Lady who owns it is great and the bike IS immaculate except for the things noted. I went the other night (since when is it now dark at night?) and had a look at the brake discs, bar ends (et al), chain and sprocket as well as tire tread. All ok.

Bike started nicely and there were no odd noises when being revved.

So I'm going thursday day for a look in the daylight. Any advice on what to look at? If I like what I see it's mine for £1500.

Cheers,
Andy
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trippz
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't be so bothered about the can because more than likely your going to change it as that looks rather bulky and abit large.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks in decent enough shape to me.
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YourMumRang
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

What should I look at on thursday lads?
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Sam_Y_93
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would say CCT but as you said you heard it running and it sounds good then thats probably fine.

I imagine the reg/rec will be made of cheese as with all ~90's Hondas, I believe when revved the lights will light up a little bit if it is in working order, if not it's not the end of the world. Can get them cheap enough off of the bay.

They are the most common Honda problems...
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pinkyfloyd
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sam_Y_93 wrote:
Would say CCT but as you said you heard it running and it sounds good then thats probably fine.

I imagine the reg/rec will be made of cheese as with all ~90's Hondas, I believe when revved the lights will light up a little bit if it is in working order, if not it's not the end of the world. Can get them cheap enough off of the bay.

They are the most common Honda problems...


Pretty much what Sam said. A reg/rec on the older Honda's are a known weak link with them overheating and frying. Later models sort the problem out by putting cooling fins on the component. Have a check, someone who owns a CBR will be able to tell you where they are. On the VTR I have its just under the rear fairing on the right side near the pillion seat. If you find it, if its not finned change it for a finned model as a precaution.

CCT's are another weak link in Honda's. For some reason they give out without warning and tend to be upgraded for workshop made manual ones, which can be got from Ebay or even the cbr forum.

Other than that, typical Honda bike, bullet proof with regular servicing etc.
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YourMumRang
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

So checking service history will be vital.

Also, apologies as I'm a noob. But CCT and reg/rec?

Rolling Eyes
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J4mes
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cam Chain Tensioner (listen for any funny engine noises) and the Regulator Rectifier, basically the alternator.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

something to look for in a perfect condition cbr600f will be history of valve shims done at 16k, preferably with the results provided...

if its not mentioned on the papers as being done, then its not done. main dealers might do it as part of a full service but noone else would.. and I wouldnt trust them if they did. Mine has not been checked yet at 30,000 :O But i will be getting it checked soon.


theres a good chance the cam chain tensioner is bad. They get extremely noisey on many honda engines. Its easy fixed tho. Ear to right side of engine while going through the revs upto 8k should tell you. Sounds very harsh. knock em own 50 quids :p


Lastly the exhaust downpipes - where they join from 4 into 2 then 1, likely to be rusted through. Bad design - I guess it needs a small drain hole. Mine are held together by road dirt !
but the can is stainless an should last forever.


then its the normal checks for a used bike.

Could easily cost £500+ for the above done by a garage, and a lot more if shims need adjusty.


Last edited by kramdra on 19:37 - 06 Sep 2011; edited 1 time in total
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pinkyfloyd
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

YourMumRang wrote:
So checking service history will be vital.

Also, apologies as I'm a noob. But CCT and reg/rec?

Rolling Eyes


CCT = Cam Chain Tensioner. Part of the engine workings itself. If it goes breaks it causes the cam chain to jump a cog or 2 thus knocking the engine timing out. If it goes and it is not sorted out ASAP then riding the bike could end up with bent valves and very possibly a new engine.

Reg/Rec changes the current of the bike. Takes AC current and changed it into DC current and sends it to the battery to charge. One of those goes bang and you're looking at a dead battery. Worst case is fried wiring and fuses.

The guys on this forum may well help you more.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/

Have a look around there for CCT and reg/rec and they'll probably have scare stories and how to fix them if they do break.

Believe me, not trying to put you off buying the bike. They are fantastic bikes as many people will attest to and the chances are neither the Reg/Rec or the CCT will give you any trouble. But with Honda's that does seem to be the known weak link in most models with precautionary changes being the norm rather than risking it in the hope it never breaks.
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Villers
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

YourMumRang wrote:
So checking service history will be vital.

Also, apologies as I'm a noob. But CCT and reg/rec?

Rolling Eyes


The CCT is the Cam Chain Tensioner, a common problem with CBR engines, once its past its automatic adjustment point it results in a clicking noise around 3k upwards. The reg/rec is a regulator/rectifier. This is an electrical device that converts (Rectifies) the AC voltage waveform from the alternator and turns it into a DC voltage, at the same time it regulates that DC voltage to a useable level, i.e not too low or high. These can fry and die, causing charging problems.

As for service history on those CBR's, with 20k and at 12 years old, I wouldnt be so bothered as long as it was physically good, sounded alright, all its consumables were intact and it apeared to be looked after. For £1500 I want that thing myself for the coming winter!!

I had a 2000FX myself that had been bought by some idiot without a licence in germany and brought to england. I bought it 3rd hand after it had been kept in a garden without a cover. It had no service history and approx 7k miles. I then put a further 8k on it through winter and summer before I finally changed the oil after a drop (it may have been its first change since its initial service, it was a VERY odd colour and very 'bitty', the filter was n absolute beast to get off!). In the time I had it (it was already a CAT-C write off when I bought it) it had that 1 oil change, a set of rear pads and a CCT, physically it survived being hit by a car, a lowside and then was written off big style, upon which I sold it for £1200 on ebay. I had put about 10k on it and only paid £2300 for it in the first place. Best bike I ever had, hard as nails, fantastic engines, good to ride.......

If its as clean as it looks, I'd take it!
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 06 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd buy that for the £1500 no hesitation if rode as it should. Good buy for that price IMO.
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 00:44 - 07 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you test ride it and check the gears out. Also get it up on the centre stand and check for play in the bearings.
Check the forks and shock.
Check the colour of the fluids and the condition of the chain this should tell you if its at least been slightly looked after.
Just because the fairings are in good condition doesn't mean it hasn't been on the track for those 20k miles with race fairings on.
the reg/rec will be behind the left side fairing just above the gas canister for the shock.

this is the definitive motorcycle evaluation guide
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:01 - 07 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the 2001 model and have had a few issues with mine since owning it, it is currently on 21k miles. I would suggest you get the lower fairings off and have a proper look underneath.

Check the downpipes, if they are the original mild steel ones they WILL rot soon, I had several snapped exhaust studs to deal with when changing them. Check the drive chain adjusters, mine were seized. Listen for cam chain noise, mine needed a new CCT. Look out for intermittent speedo faults, mine needed a new speed sensor. Check all the consumables (chain, tyres, sprockets, discs, fork seals, bearings in the wheels, headstock and swingarm etc etc). I also had a leaking radiator and fell of my chair when I saw how much new ones are, welded mine and repainted it in the end.


It's a good idea to go over any new bike and change ALL fluids and replace the corroded fasteners with st/st ones.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 07 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

agreed on th radiator. Really needs some kind of mesh/grill infront of it. mine has several big stone dents but doesnt leak.

£300 each :O
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YourMumRang
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 08 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well chaps I bought it! Thanks for all the advice!

Found a few more minor (minor!) marks on it and checked the following:

Reg/rec - The lights stayed put when I revved as per the guide posted.
CCT - No sound when I revved. Sounded perfect!
Radiator - absolutely fine aside from the fly-corpses!
Chain/Sprockets - in need of a clean and oil but she hadn't ridden the bike in a month or two and her garage is dusty. Needs a clean but ok.
Fork Seals - scabby but fine. No leaks or anything.
Steering - no notches or anything.
Brakes - fine. Pads were fine.
Pipes - might be stainless ones as they had a bronze sheen and had a little mankyness on them but otherwise fine.

Got it for the £1500 agreed. All in all very happy!
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 08 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

YourMumRang wrote:
Well chaps I bought it! Thanks for all the advice!

Found a few more minor (minor!) marks on it and checked the following:

Reg/rec - The lights stayed put when I revved as per the guide posted.
CCT - No sound when I revved. Sounded perfect!
Radiator - absolutely fine aside from the fly-corpses!
Chain/Sprockets - in need of a clean and oil but she hadn't ridden the bike in a month or two and her garage is dusty. Needs a clean but ok.
Fork Seals - scabby but fine. No leaks or anything.
Steering - no notches or anything.
Brakes - fine. Pads were fine.
Pipes - might be stainless ones as they had a bronze sheen and had a little mankyness on them but otherwise fine.

Got it for the £1500 agreed. All in all very happy!



Sounds like a real bargain to me mate, well done.


If the downpipes are not rust coloured or black painted then they are almost certainly stainless - try a magnet on them, most "not shit quality" stainless is not magnetic, mild steel obviously is magnetic.
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 08 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one buddy, but why are you here posting when you should be out riding?
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YourMumRang
Nova Slayer



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PostPosted: 21:05 - 08 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I feel like for the first time that i've checked the bike out as best i can even if i couldnt test ride it. Also, she was a policewoman and quite well off so don't feel i've been misled at all.

Just need to wait for my DAS.
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