Ok Guru's try and tig or decent chemical metal. Engine mount

[jimbothe]

So, picked this up the other day as a non runner and been stood for 6 years.
30k from new with papers.

https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/NEWFJ1200007.jpg
Got it running last night after stripping and rebuilding the carbs, replacing some wiring, the odd fuse and draining, flushing and draining the old fuel out and a quick service.

Runs surprisingly well but exhaust has rotted out. Began removing the exhaust then heard the sound of a metal part falling off
That metal part was this:
https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/NEWFJ1200003.jpg

Carried on removing the exhaust and got to the front pipe. Found where the jigsaw piece goes. Excuse the crap picture but you get the idea.
https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/NEWFJ1200004.jpg
For those who can't tell it's the top engine mount on the left hand side as sitting on the bike.

A quick dig around and Yamaha's legendary crap engine casing material crubled to dust:
https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/NEWFJ1200001.jpg

Basically, what do you think? How to proceed?
I've tried Tig welding casings before and with not much luck. Partly because the casings are not exactly the best quality Ally and partly because I'm crap at it..
It's holding on the other side and the weight is also being held by the bottom two mounts as well as the rear mounts.

I figured I would clean it all up and try some quick steel to get the shape back and then paint the frame silver again.


..........................

Waits for ridicule
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[P.addy]

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_bN9se-ul_aE/S_n37jOHaMI/AAAAAAAAChI/roGzjf8gbUQ/s1600/ducttape.jpg

You have my word it will be fine.

[jimbothe]

I've heard about your repairs

https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/failfatty.jpg
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[P.addy]

Fair point

[temeluchus]

we all know low mileage mystically means nothing can be wrong!
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[Andy_Pagin]

Problem with welding is you need good clean metal to weld onto.
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[stinkwheel]

As long as the engine is held in there firmly enough, I'd rub some mucky grease over the shiny bit and pretend it wasn't there.
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[jimbothe]

It is very firm in there but is just visible when the belly pan is on. I've got to take it for mot eventually and wasn't sure if they would pick up on it?

Clean metal it is not

I know that realistically chemical metal won't 'hold it' as such, it was more of a cosmetic thing so it blends in and doesn't *cough* get noticed by the mot man.
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[Andy_Pagin]

[kestrel]

I think that firstly i'd try to work out why the casing has corroded so badly in that one area.
If you do Tig weld it then firstly cut back to clean base metal using a new 60 grit flap disk that has not been used before, this is important to prevent contamination of the aluminium. Build up the area with weld beads using 4043 5% Silicon Tig rods, 4043 has a good wetting action and is quite fluid and resists cracking so is ideal for cast Ali repairs. Use a gas lens on the torch if you have one to ensure good gas coverage and adjust AC Balance on the Tig set to ensure adequate cleaning. Brush between runs with a stainless steel wire brush, again important that it's stainless to avoid contamination. Continue adding filler material until you have built up the area sufficiently to reshape using flap disk, files etc.
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[Pete.]

Most likely the damage was caused by the corrosion itself, or by someone in the past trying to remove the heavily corroded mounting bolt.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Vincent]

Wow that's well wierd. Have you got a decent camera you can get some macro pics with?

first thoughts are that it's been fractured at some point....or battery acid leak maybe
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[Handsome]

I bought some Chemical Metal from B&Q to sort out my sump plug a couple of years back, it's still in there ( Before anyone asks again, I tried other methods but they didn't work, plus I have two sump plugs ! )...

It's still in there, has a temp rating of 150 degrees and it'll stick shit to fog, currently the tube is in the shed and I'm not allowed out after dark, if you remind me tomorrow I'll grab it from out of the tool box as I've just had a mooch on their website and I can't see it...

I recommend it though...
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[Vincent]

Theres a difference between using it for a sump plug and using it on an engine mounting bolt though.
I've got to confess that I rode one of my bikes for quite a while with one out of four engine mountings missing That was on a 250, not an 1100 mind.
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[Handsome]

[garth]

Chemical metal the bastard and then slap grease and dirt over it.

It's not as though the engines just going to fall out it is it.

What are your intentions for the bike?
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[jimbothe]

It's pitchers outside but I have some daylighter halogens. These are the best hi res pics I can muster under the artificial light. The intact one (first pic) is the other side to show what it should be like.

https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/ENGINEMOUNT006.jpg
https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/ENGINEMOUNT004.jpg
https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/ENGINEMOUNT005.jpg
https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/ENGINEMOUNT007.jpg
https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/ENGINEMOUNT009.jpg
https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/ENGINEMOUNT014.jpg
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[jimbothe]

[cb1rocket]

I can't see that being an MoT fail anyway, its not really part of the MoT either. If the engine was hanging off the frame and wobbling about then yes but it looks to me to be firmly in place and still struturally sound - I wouldn't even worry. Its purely cosmetic to me

[kestrel]

Having seen that close up I would suggest having an aluminium tube machined with an ID to suit the engine mounting bolt and a suitable OD. Remove the remainder of the damaged mounting and clean back to base metal then weld the tube on to the casing and add new gusset plates. Using chemical resin fixes are a bodge and for every success story you hear there are many more fails. Bear in mind also that if you do use a resin bodge and eventually have to resort to welding then it's going to cost you a lot more in labour time. Aluminium has to be absolutely clean before welding, that means removing every trace of resin and contaminants and a simple job becomes a nightmare for the welder. I do quite a lot of engine and frame repairs, particularly during the racing season, and even badly damaged casings can often be repaired without too much work or expense. I personally won't touch anything that's been bodged, it's just not worth the time or the aggravation.
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[Vincent]

'You sure that hasn't been repaired already? Deffo looks like it was originaly a failed fracture to me.
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[jimbothe]

Well thats fucked it.


The bolt circled in white has now sheared off. I soaked it, heated it and it just sheared. Very little effort if I'm honest. I reckon someones welded it in there or as said before it's a previous repair and they have stuck it in good and proper.
The remaining thread is still in the recess. I think I'm just going to weld the bastard in the hole and cover it with the sheared off bit and a bit of quick steel. Nowt lost as far as engine removal is concerned (if need be) as the frame can come off with the engine at that point.

The shaft is not moving at all. Not even from the other side.

https://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/jgillard/NEWFJ1200004-1.jpg
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