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removing valve springs

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jamesrs250
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: removing valve springs Reply with quote

any one know know how to remove the valve springs on a dzr 400

i found this vid on you tube just cant get the keepers to go back in

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es6raocApZQ
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will need to compress the valve springs sufficiently that you can remove the split collets.

On reassembly place the split collets either side of the top of the valve using a blob of grease to hold them in place while you ease off the tension on the valve springs.

I have a very old valve spring compressor that I have had for over 35 years.But the physical size of valve springs has got considerably smaller to the big springs on my Honda 750 in 1979.So for my Exup 1000 valves I made an adapter from a length of old Renthal handlebar that I had lying around the shed.
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jamesrs250
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was thinking that i could try and use a g-clamp
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

One end of the valve spring compressor normally has a pointed end to it.This centres itself in the middle of the valve head inside of the combustion chamber.A G clamp has not got this feature.
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jamesrs250
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah mabe if i cut the end of the g clamp with the thread on to sit in the middel of the valve. the the other end i would have to do some think so i could get the keekers in
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i done it like the guy in the video using a spark plug socket. i was able to do it with a fridge magnet. took a little while to get the method ok, but was easy enough in the end. think i used blue tac first which did work before i found a magnet.
using a g-clamp is probably not the right way to go, chances are the g-clamp will not have enough clearance over the cylinder head and/or you need an opposite parallel and flat surface to push down on to compress the valve spring.
get someone to help you put them back in, it is so much unbelievably easier with an extra pair of hands, sometimes i wish evolution would hurry up and give me an extra pair of limbs
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Last edited by el_oso on 20:48 - 13 Oct 2011; edited 1 time in total
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MickC
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got one of these when I did my head:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valve-Spring-Compressor-Kit-small-bores-Motor-cycle-/120750509923?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c1d4a8f63

Don't know if it would be suitable for your valves, but if it is, they are well worth it. They can be adjusted at both ends, so you can easily keep them away from the surfaces of the head.
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jamesrs250
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

the method on you tube does work i just can get the keepers back on i can get one on
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jamesrs250
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MickC wrote:
I got one of these when I did my head:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valve-Spring-Compressor-Kit-small-bores-Motor-cycle-/120750509923?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c1d4a8f63

Don't know if it would be suitable for your valves, but if it is, they are well worth it. They can be adjusted at both ends, so you can easily keep them away from the surfaces of the head.


yeah that would work,,im just thinking how i could do it now,,in stead of waiting for a tool in the post
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spyuggy
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you study the video, the guy puts one in, then lines up the second one at an angle, his angle was about 45 degrees, make sure that you have a side clearance on either side and it will slip in easily.
I have done heads when I had little tools and used two screwdrivers to compress the spring, then a mate dropped in both collets with his fingers, or pointed nosed pliers.
Best of luck with it.
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MickC
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PostPosted: 05:50 - 14 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:

i bought a rather clever little tool that sits on top of the valve, you simply push down on it and it compresses the springs and pops the collets back in, in one go.


Pictures,make, where did you get it! Wanted something like that for years......fiddling about with poxy little collets, don't help that my eye sight ain't that brill anymore!!!
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:34 - 14 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A spring compressor is the proper way, as above some need an adaptor making as they are nearly always made for car-sized valves. You can actually make them from a large open-frame G-clamp becaus eI have a very old one made to that design.

Do you not know anyone who could lend you one?
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jamesrs250
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PostPosted: 09:30 - 14 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

spyuggy wrote:
If you study the video, the guy puts one in, then lines up the second one at an angle, his angle was about 45 degrees, make sure that you have a side clearance on either side and it will slip in easily.
I have done heads when I had little tools and used two screwdrivers to compress the spring, then a mate dropped in both collets with his fingers, or pointed nosed pliers.
Best of luck with it.


i can get one keeper in but the second is hard to do even with two people
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jamesrs250
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 14 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont know any one ho could lend me one but the shop wanted £45 to do it..i might just buy one of theese then

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230673491182?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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MickC
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 14 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamesrs250 wrote:
i dont know any one ho could lend me one but the shop wanted £45 to do it..i might just buy one of theese then

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230673491182?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


Looks the same as the one i got, they work well
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 14 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

My valve spring compressor cost me £5 back in 1976.But looking at the adaptors in that kit from ebay,they are just like what I hand made from various bits of tubing that I had in the shed.

If the cylinder head on the DRZ is anything like the head from an Exup or R1,then the inverted bucket tunnel is very narrow and the wrong shaped/sized adapter must not be allowed to damage this finely honed part of the head.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 14 years, 112 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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