Well, lets see....
If you have not done this.....
The CBT is the 1st thing that gets done on the first day, please read on... (long post, for those that don't want to get bored over the next 20 mins, please go and make a coffee !)
Element A: (introduction)
Aims of CBT: Government approved course introduced on December 1st 1990 to teach basic skills to new riders with the following aims:
To reduce the high level of RTAs amongst inexperienced riders.
To improve rider safety and machine control.
To increase rider awareness and good practice.
CBT is not a test but a continuous assessment.
Content of CBT: There are five elements to CBT that must be taken in sequence:
A. Introduction
B. Practical on site training
C. On site riding
D. Practical on road training
E. On road riding
On completion give certificate DL196 which is valid for two years. CBT is compulsory for all new motorcyclists & new car driving/moped entitlement. Learner cannot ride unaccompanied until CBT is completed. Instructor to student maximum ratio is 1:4 on site, 1:2 on road.
Equipment and Clothing: (Element A)
Without it, we are vulnerable to injuries in RTAs and we can become cold and wet which can cause a loss of concentration, adverse reaction times and possibly a lack of movement and feel for the controls.
Safety Helmet:
Always buy brand new, they are a single use safety item.
They are the only item of clothing that we are legally required to wear and it must also be correctly fastened.
It must carry a BSI 6658:1985 kite mark* (prior to July 2000) or UNECEC 22.05# white label with an E number in a circle. (Post July 2000). '04' or '03' are illegal in the UK.
From July 1st 2000, it has been legal to wear a helmet purchased anywhere within the EU provided it carries CE mark: EC22/05.
* Testing procedures cover impact protection, penetration resistance, basic design, chin strap security, chin bar strength and resistance to solvents and temperature extremes. There are two levels: 'A' and 'B'. 'A' has withstood higher impact speeds.
# Does not test for chinbar strength or penetration and is generally believed to be less exhaustive than BSI test.
An ACU gold sticker means that the helmet is considered to be safe for competition use.
Fastener types; - quick release (seat belt) - double ‘D’-ring - bar and buckle. Safety helmets come in three styles:
Full face: comes with hinged visor. It protects face and jaw and gives the most weather protection. Quieter and hotter, not so easy to talk whilst being worn.
Open: (jet style) cheapest, more noise and less protection from frontal impact and weather.
Hybrid: (hinged or flip-up front) more expensive, very convenient as it enables talking without removal. Must be shut down whilst on the move.
Helmet Materials:
Polycarbonate: plastic, cheaper, lighter weight, one-piece moulding. Paint, stickers and solvent forbidden. 3-year life.
Glassfibre: Heavier, not affected by solvents or stickers, 5-year life.
Kevlar or Carbon Fibre Laminate: lightest, strongest and most expensive.
Helmet Fit and Care:
Try on a wide range to find a firm and snug fit all over the head, no localised pressure points. For this reason, buying by mail order is not very convenient. Any movement will be in the scalp itself.
New helmets will ‘bed-in’ to the owner’s head shape.
Show them how to put one on by holding both straps and prising apart.
Helmet must not be loose and check the fit with the strap fastened.
Make sure your glasses can fit inside a full-face helmet OK.
They are only designed to take one impact, therefore do not borrow one or buy a used one.
Any Velcro fastenings are not the main method of fastening.
Take care not to drop the helmet, don’t leave it balanced precariously anywhere.
(Element A - continued)
Visors & Goggles: Eye protection, whilst not required by law, is essential and must fit over your normal glasses if required. Visors & goggles used must carry the BS 4110 kite mark. BS 4110 standards cover light transmission, resistance to scratching (‘A’) and impacts.
‘X’ = lowest grade impact protection, ‘Y’ medium and ‘Z’ the highest.
Goggles should have a BS marking for safety glass. Don’t wear tinted visors in dark or poor visibility. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth to maintain good visibility at all times. Do not wipe with a dry cloth or glove or this will cause scratching and a ‘starring’ effect at night. Visors can be bought separately and should be replaced when they become scratched.
Keep the inside of the visor clean and polished to minimise fogging, there are means of keeping the mist at bay such as ‘Fog City’ and spray polishes. A clean outer surface will encourage water to ‘fling off’.
Clothing Materials:
Leather: Only buy purpose-made motorcycle clothing not ‘fashion’ leather items. Motorcycle leathers will be of the optimum thickness and grade of leather correctly stitched to resist tearing. Not normally designed to be worn over ordinary clothing. Good abrasion resistance, the thicker and heavier the better. May have double thickness panels and/or body armour in vulnerable area such as elbows, shoulders, hips, knees and back. Leather can be hot in summer and cold in winter and is not fully waterproof. If it gets wet it needs to be allowed to dry out slowly and will need to be treated.
Man-made: Plastic/PVC/Nylon/Textile are cheaper and lightweight but can be sweaty and can melt on a hot exhaust pipe. Often designed to fit over normal ‘day’ clothes so when trying on make sure that there is sufficient room and no constrictions. Poor abrasion resistance and friction temperature can cause nylon to melt on to skin. Modern textile clothing is much better as it can offer good abrasion resistance, waterproof membrane and built-in body armour and is easier to wash.
One-piece: Mostly leather, has the advantage that the jacket will not ride up creating a gap that can leave you prone to draughts and abrasion injury.
Two-piece: Can be leather or man made materials and ideally they will zip together. Has the convenience of allowing the two items to be bought separately according to budget and sizing.
Gloves: Purpose made motorcycle gloves need to be worn, as they will have the necessary strengthening panels and be of the right material for resisting abrasion. Usually leather, can be textile. Fingers and hands need to be kept as warm as possible without compromising feel for controls. For long winter journeys consider handlebar covers and/or heated grips. Regarding the latter, obtain expert advice to ensure that your machine has sufficient electrical capacity for such an accessory.
Boots: If you cannot afford purpose made motorcycle boots then strong leather footwear will do, ideally with ankle and shin protection combined with a stiff sole to prevent crushing injuries. Industrial work wear or hiking boots could be worn provided they allow use of foot controls OK. Watch out for loose laces becoming entangled on foot controls. Be wary of steel toecaps.
Safety Warning: Understand the dangers of riding:
Without eye protection or adequate gloves.
With scratched, damaged or tinted visors or goggles.
With a damaged helmet.
In shorts, tee shirt, sandals or trainers.
Without adequate clothing in bad weather.
Conclusion:
Buy the best you can afford and look after it and it will last many years.
For restricted budgets, consider second hand, purpose-made, jackets and trousers where any damage or wear is obvious.
Do not buy or borrow a second hand safety helmet.
Motorcycling will be safer and more enjoyable if you are warm, dry and comfortable.
Check licences and eyesight:
Read car (not motorcycle) number plate at 20.5 metres (67 feet or 25 paces)
Good daylight - letters and figures to be 79.4 mm (3.1 inches) high.
With aid of glasses or contact lenses if normally worn in which case they must be worn during the course.
If the eyesight test is failed, the course cannot continue.
Motorcycles and their controls: (Element B)
Controls:
Start at left hand switchgear and work way around clockwise. Finish by explaining use of clutch & gears. (Include fuel, reserve, choke & throttle)
Hand controls:
Clutch lever
Lighting switches (dipped beam on road)
Indicator usage (use without looking down)
Horn ("show me" question)
Ignition ON/OFF
Throttle demonstration
Front brake lever (4 fingers) & stop light switch
Master cylinder reservoir ("tell me" question) (if fitted)
Electric Starter button (release once engine is running)
Engine cut-off/kill switch (avoid using except in an emergency)
Carburettor & choke operation
Fuel tap positions & explain main & reserve supplies
Foot Controls:
Rear brake
Kick-starter
Gear change lever (explain gear change procedure)
Instruments:
Speedometer
Rev-counter
Warning lamps
Water temperature & fuel gauges
Controls should be used smoothly and progressively and caressed gently without looking down at them. Clutch and brake levers have adjusters to compensate for wear and allow adjustment for comfort. Finish by explaining use of clutch & gears.
Using the Brakes:
Q & A: explain use & effects of front & rear braking (only when upright). Demonstrate the above by applying front brake whilst machine leant over.
Basic safety checks & use of the stands: Element B (continued)
Why? To reduce our vulnerability and to ensure proper operation of motorcycle.
Brakes: ("show me" question) Correct adjustment. Lubricated cables. Check for any fraying & the brake wear indicators. Cable operation should be smooth. Reservoir level.
Oils & Fluids: Dipstick or sight glass ("show me" question) whilst machine is on level ground. Also battery, coolant and hydraulic reservoirs (clutch).
Lights & Electrics: Check all electrics ("show me" question): lights, horn & cut out/kill switch. Check security of plug lead.
Tyres & Wheels: ("tell me" question) Legal requirement for motorcycles is 1mm over ¾ of width for entire circumference. For mopeds the requirement is merely "visible" tread over ¾ of the width around the entire circumference. Spin wheels for trueness & soundness of spokes. Check tyre for cuts & bulges. No play in wheel bearings & importance of correct tyre pressures.
Steering: Head bearings for free movement, notchiness & too much slack. ("Show Me," question)
Suspension: Compress front forks & mention oil seal leaks. Show rear suspension movement & pivot wear check.
Sprockets & Chain: ("tell me" question) Prone to wear and require inspection, adjustment & lubrication. Emphasise importance of achieving correct tension.
Stands: Need to be secure & lubricated so that they swing out of way. Don’t sit on the bike whilst on the stand as this can place unnecessary strain & wear on the stand.
Finally make sure that there are no loose items such as number plate, ‘L’ plates or nuts and bolts. Mirrors, lights & reflectors to be clean and unbroken. Keeping whole bike clean on a regular basis will make it easier to spot any problems ASAP.
Daily checks: - P.O.W.D.E.R. - (Petrol - Oil - Water - Damage - Electrics - Rubber).
Using The Stand: Helmets & gloves on, the machine to be on firm, level ground. Bars straight ahead steering lock off, right foot covering centre stand lever, left hand on left handlebar, push down on rear grab handle then rock the machine forward off stand. Look straight head, not down. With both stand feet on ground transfer right hand to front brake and apply with all four fingers. Make sure centre springs up & lean machine slightly into body. Technique NOT strength.
This procedure needs to be followed to minimise the risk of personal injury and machine damage. NB: Do not get astride the machine without wearing helmet & gloves and do not sit on the machine whilst it is on its stand.
Wheeling the Motorcycle & braking to a stop:
Wheel machine forward using the front brake to stop in a straight line. (On scooters, the left handlebar lever can be used to operate the rear brake for improved stability). Look ahead to where you want to go caressing the brake lever all the time using all four fingers. Also demonstrate how to turn the machine left and right, stepping forward for a right turn and back for a left.
Practise by student with helmet & gloves on standing next to student for security when the first turn to the right is made. Straight ahead first then left circle, right circle then figure of eight. Stop in a straight line.
Avoid:
Holding somewhere other than the handlebar grips
Wobbling Insecure control
Looking down Harsh use of front brake
Knocking of shins
Starting & Stopping The Engine: Helmet, vests & gloves on, off stand, astride machine. Explain:
Fuel: Make sure there is enough for journey & tap is switched on. Switch off choke as soon as engine runs smoothly without it.
Ignition: switch on with left hand, making sure cut/off/kill switch is on. Always use the main ignition switch to switch off the engine. Using the kill switch but leaving the ignition on will run down the battery & possibly damage the coils.
Gears: Make sure neutral light is on, move bike forward or spin rear wheel. Explain what a false neutral is.
Starter: Use electric start in preference to kick-starter & release button as soon as engine is running.
Safety position - left foot on ground, clutch in & right foot on rear brake.
Switch off engine using left hand on ignition switch. Turn fuel off if parking up at end of the day. Dismount & place on centre stand correctly. End of Element B
Riding in a straight line & stopping: Element (C)
Helmet & gloves on, F.I.G.S.
Explain: Learning to move off in first gear only. Clutch in, tread gear lever down into 1st gear
Safety position (explain)
Apply rear brake only
Steady throttle - ‘busy’ tickover
Release clutch slowly - think: ‘dimmer-switch’
Develop feel for biting point
Release rear brake smoothly
Stopping:
Accelerator closed smoothly
Brake with both brakes (front first)
Clutch in + left foot down as you come to a halt
Practise at least twice. Consider: cones in a diamond, students to proceed clockwise.
Riding Slowly: (helmet, gloves & vests on)
Explain why this is a necessary skill - junctions, heavy traffic, petrol stations, car parks, machine to be under full control at all times. Student must be able to bring the machine to a controlled halt at a specific point (e.g.’Give Way’ lines).
Demonstrate: Safety position, steady, busy accelerator, biting point engaged, machine being held on rear brake. Release rear brake gently and re-apply to keep smooth motion at walking pace. Head up, (not down at controls) look where you are going! Arms relaxed, thighs against fuel tank. ABC & STOP.
Practise: Instructor to nearside of student ready to pull in clutch (one student at a time). After going straight ahead has been mastered, circle to left than right.
Using The Brakes:
(Both) to control speed and stop accurately at a pre-determined point. (Student to stop at simulated give way lines).
Avoid:
Stalling
Use of rear brake before front
Use of one brake only
Harsh & late use of brakes
Locking either wheel
Inaccurate stopping
Changing Gear:
Explain:
Need for gears (e.g. bicycle)
Controls speed and affects fuel consumption
Higher gears have higher numbers
5 fingers - sequential gearbox
Avoid block changing, engage clutch in between each change
Demonstrate: On stand with a dead engine show foot & gear lever position, throttle & clutch action.
Riding a Figure of Eight:
Explain: Develop steering (lock to lock change), balance & low speed control avoiding wobbling & feet down.
Demonstrate:
Head up and look where you want to go.
Use back brake & clutch biting point
Steady throttle in 1st gear
May need knees slightly apart
Counter balance
Relaxed, flexible arms.
Practise:
Start with wide circles & gradually tighten.
Stand in the centre & then behind.
Emergency Stopping: Element (C) continued
Q & A and explanation of stopping procedure. Mention wet surface, skid correction & thinking distance.
Explain: How to stop safely in an emergency but under full control. In an emergency there is no time for observation or gear changing. ABC principle and pulling clutch in at last moment & left foot down.
Explain: (whilst sitting on machine, show how controls are to be used). Four-finger grip, braking must be done in a straight line, weight transfer, front brake does most of the work, rear wheel becomes lighter. Only pull in clutch as you come to a halt to maximise engine braking & minimise rear wheel hopping/skidding. Dry surface = 75/25, wet = 50/50. (Braking force NOT lever movement).
Five Steps:
1. Accelerator closed
2. Ease front brake on
3. Ease rear brake on
4. Squeeze front brake harder
5. Clutch in & left foot down
Practise: Stand to offside to observe brake operation. Walk backwards & beckon student forward with two gentle arm movements, put out right arm horizontally, gently. Instructor to check; Application of FIVE Steps.
Faults: Rear observation, late reaction, clutch in too early, one brake only in use, locked wheel, changing into a lower gear, stopping in neutral, forgetting to shut throttle, stalled engine (not too bad!)
Rear Observation:
Explain: To be safe on the road especially when changing direction or speed. Do this by using; MIRRORS & LOOKING OVER SHOULDER.
Demonstrate: Student on bike with helmet & gloves, in safety position, engine switched off.
Use mirror: Correct adjustment, glass may be convex to improve angle of vision but this can cause object to appear further away than they really are. Mirrors when regularly ‘scanned’ will give updates on situation behind. Check mirrors regularly on approaching hazards & before braking. Demonstrate blind spot danger.
Look over shoulder: used when pulling away from a stationary position.
Life Saver: Used mainly whilst the machine is on the move to check for a vehicle in the blind spot, just before the position of the motorcycle is changed or where another vehicle may attempt to cross the motorcycle’s path. E.G. turns, roundabouts, overtaking and turning from a major into a minor road.
Practise: Student to do rear observation just before moving off and lifesavers whilst on the move. Life Savers should be done without causing the machine to wobble or veer off course.
Turning Left & Right (Junctions):
Define ‘dominant’ position. Whiteboard talk followed by a walk through of a simulated junction, ahead of students. OSM, Manoeuvre is broken down into PSL, finally, remember to cancel indicators. Life savers need to be used just before you turn, not too soon and also when turning left from a major into a minor. With roundabout talk, mention OK to ‘bale out’.
U-Turn:
Explain practical use on the road & are part of the test. Machine to be under control both feet on footrests at all times & aware of traffic. No signal necessary but rear observation and lifesaver is required. Look out for hazards in BOTH directions.
Practise: Long U-turn (rear observation, travel forward, life saver then turn).
Short U-turn (optional): (rear observation only) OK but a little more difficult for the student.
End of element (C)
Conspicuity: Element (D)
Dipped headlights - to be used on all of CBT (on site & on road) & test & legally required in poor visibility.
Visibility aids - reflective stripes & stickers
Bright clothing - white helmet, Q & A reflective & fluorescent clothing
Clean bike - to reflect light back at other road users
Road positioning: A motorcycle can be obscured behind a wide tree and don’t position yourself in other road user’s blind spots See & be seen - make yourself visible - slow down - anticipate.
Legal requirements: - for you and your machine:
Age 16/17
Driving licence with motorcycle ‘L’ entitlement + DL196
Insurance - very important
Vehicle test certificate (MOT) if bike is 3 years old or more
Road Fund Licence (tax disc) to be displayed on nearside
‘L’ plates of the correct size and displayed flat, front & rear
Roadworthy machine - particularly exhaust & tyres
Approved safety helmet correctly worn & fastened
Vulnerability:
Part of a vulnerable group; cyclists, horseriders & the elderly, will come of worst in a collision with a larger vehicle irrespective of who was to blame. We are prone to injury even at very low speed. That is why we wear the most protective clothing we can afford. We are not as protected from the weather conditions & therefore getting cold and wet is not only unpleasant in can affect concentration, reaction times and numbness in limbs can affect use of controls.
Speed:
Ride at the correct speed to observe & deal with hazards.
Ride at a speed so that you can pull up in the distance you can see to be clear.
"Only a fool breaks the two second rule" (double it in the wet).
Not TOO fast - 30 MPH is a limit, NOT a target (e.g. outside schools)
Not TOO slow as to cause frustration in other road users.
Ride within your own limits that will increase with experience.
Speeding fines can be very expensive!
Highway Code: (SHOW IT!) Element (D) continued
Useful, underused document of value to all road users of all types & experience. Only costs £1.49 and is often updated. Sample questions;
Box junctions - Do not enter the box unless your exit route is clear. It is OK to enter and wait within the area provided you are only prevented from proceeding by oncoming traffic or by other vehicles waiting to turn right.
Solid double white lines - Do not cross unless:
You are turning into a drive or side turning. You find it necessary to overtake a stationary vehicle or a pedal cycle, horse or road maintenance vehicle if they are travelling at 10MPH or less.
Red circular signs are mostly prohibitive.
Triangular signs give a warning.
Blue signs usually give an instruction
Anticipation:
Look well ahead; give yourself time to deal with a hazard.
Act before situation situations get out of control
Leave a safe gap (2 second rule) & a car door’s width
Car drivers will not always signal a U-turn
Develop a ‘what if?’ attitude.
Expect a green light to turn to red.
Watch out for bends tightening
Be able to stop within your range of vision.
Wet surface will offer a lot less grip
ANTICIPATION is CONCENTRATION
Rear Observation:
Important to know what might be coming up behind.
Combination of using mirrors & turning your head.
Needed when: Moving off
Turning
Overtaking
Changing speed
It also gives a warning of your intentions.
Don’t rely on mirrors alone, also use shoulder checks & lifesavers.
Don’t look around too often, for too long or too late.
Don’t veer off course or wobble
Road Positioning: Element (D) continued
Take up correct positions as often as you can.
When travelling ahead, usually in the centre of your own lane (dominant).
Don’t ride in the gutter or on the crown (take up dominant position)
Without swerving at the last second, avoid potholes, oil & obstructions.
Move slightly from dominant position if it will assist other road users to see you such as at junctions but revert to dominant position once hazard is passed.
Don’t ride in another vehicle’s blind spot & watch out for a trailer cutting a corner.
Keep to nearside lane on dual carriageways.
Consider & adapt your road position to maximise safety.
Separation Distance: (Highway Code - page 29)
Leave a safe space to allow you to pull up without colliding. Hanging back will also give a better view around the vehicle ahead. Stopping distance = Thinking + Braking time
30 MPH = 9M + 14M = 23M
30 MPH = 30 feet + 45 feet = 75 feet (25 yards)
"Only a fool breaks the 2 second rule" (double in the wet)
It is easier for a motorcyclist to change his/her position to achieve a better view.
ALWAYS be able to stop in the distance that you can see to be clear.
Cars with ABS can stop very quickly in the wet!
In traffic, leave nearly a bike’s length between yourself and the vehicle in front. When overtaking a parked vehicle, leave a door widths gap.
Weather Conditions:
Motorcyclists are badly affected by rain, cold, wet, snow, ice, fog & wind.
Always wear the best clothing you can afford no matter how short the journey or how hot the weather is.
Keep your visor/goggles in the best condition for clearest vision & to minimise fogging.
Make yourself visible to other road users.
Extra stopping distance will be required, consider reducing speed.
Wet drain covers, white paint, mud, oil spillage & overbanding.
Strong winds on bridges and gaps in trees. ‘Bow wave’ effect when passing large commercial vehicles.
Snow & ice - if in doubt don’t use the motorcycle.
Problems caused by a low sun.
Road Surfaces: Element (D)
Very important for motorcyclists in view of small tyre contact area.
Hazards:
Mud
Leaves
Litter
Gravel
Road chippings
Potholes
Uneven surfaces
Inspection covers when wet
Fuel spillages on bends, roundabouts, bus stops & petrol stations
Over banding
Painted areas
Polished/worn areas at junctions & roundabouts
Cats eyes
Tram lines.
Roads can become particularly greasy when the first rain for some time falls after a hot and dry spell of weather.
Avoid such hazards in good time by looking and planning ahead so that you can avoid without reacting suddenly. Special care will therefore be needed when accelerating, braking & cornering. Car drivers are unaware of our vulnerability to road conditions.
Alcohol & Drugs:
Affect judgement, balance, concentration & reaction times.
80 milligrams per 100 millilitres of blood, almost impossible to be sure if you are over or under the limit, don’t drink & drive. Be aware of risk of a potential reading the morning after a heavy drinking session.
Legally banned drugs are ... BANNED!
With medicines, check with your doctor, pharmacist or the packaging as to whether or not it is OK to ‘operate machinery’.
Very serious penalties; heavy fines, bans & very expensive insurance.
Attitude:
Behave calmly, responsibly and patiently.
Ride defensively.
Keep concentrating & anticipating & be a good ambassador for motorcycling!
Anger & competition will lead to mistakes & possibly accidents.
Despite provocation, DON’T; react, retaliate or become involved or fuel the spiral of ‘road rage’.
Hazard Perception:
A hazard is anything that is a potential risk. It is something that could cause us to change our speed and/or position. Important to look ahead and recognise hazards such as; pedestrian crossings, children, loose dogs, horses & all other road users.
Early recognition gives you time to deal, watch out for clues such as an exhaust cloud, moving wheel covers.
Plan ahead and allow room, look for an escape route & avoid ‘target fixation’.
Use all your senses - not just sight but also smell (diesel) & hearing (emergency sirens)
Adjust your speed for a potential hazard. Can I stop in time?
Your safety is in your control and the better your control, the safer you will be.
End of element (D)
Element (E) - Practical On Road Riding (pre-ride classroom talk)
Traffic Lights: Sequence - speed of approach - decision to stop or go - stop at the stop line - exit clear? (Watch out for cyclist’s stop line). Be aware of filter lights. If traffic lights have failed, proceed with caution; treat as if it is an unmarked junction.
Roundabouts: Whiteboard/diagram talk, mention ‘bail-out’ procedure (right indicator back on & go around roundabout again). Several lifesavers will be required. Exit numbering system, a right turn is anything past the 12 o’clock position. OSM, PSL. Adjusting your speed to hopefully filter in after first assessing speed of other vehicles. Avoid misleading signals.
Junctions: Use observation to be aware of layout, road signs and markings and any hazards. Stop or give way? Initially, the instructor may make decision. OSM, PSL. Be aware that in the wet, the area behind the give way or stop line may be more slippery than normal. When pulling up behind another vehicle, leave a gap of approximately one bike length.
Pedestrian Crossings: Pay special attention & be prepared to adjust your speed. Don’t stop on a crossing causing the pedestrians path to be blocked. Overtaking on zig-zap approach - do not wave pedestrians over.
Gradients: Hill start, use rear brake like a car handbrake, use more throttle. Avoid stalling & rolling backwards. On descents, control speed by gears and brakes. Match gears to speed and load on ascent. Look out for warning signs on approach.
Bends: Always travel so that you can stop in the distance you can see to be clear. (Major cause of accidents). Check for broken road surfaces, manhole covers, debris and cambers, must lean to go around. Adjust speed before entering bend; do not brake in a bend.
Obstructions: Look well ahead (OSM, PSL) - move into position early - if the obstruction is on your side you must give way - not usual to give a signal.
U-Turn: Use skill developed on the playground, this is part of the motorcycle test. To be done on a public road, avoiding feet going down. Rear observation over shoulder when pulling away from kerb & a lifesaver before turn. Requires smooth use of clutch, throttle & possibly rear brake to control speed.
Stopping as in an emergency: Part of the motorcycle test. ‘ABC’ must react quickly to signal (the instructor will give a stop signal whilst walking backwards, (right arm extended horizontally, slowly)). If one tyre should skid, release & re-apply with slightly with less force. Don’t snatch at controls but use them progressively. In an emergency there is no time for rear observation or gear changing. End of element (E)
DAS (conducted over 2 - as many days as you need)
Power ratio difference
Machine can accelerate faster
Higher top speed & deceptive cruising speed (check speedo)
Engine braking may be more marked than a 125
Extra power helpful when over taking
More effective hydraulic discs as opposed to cable-operated drum brakes
Stronger brakes need delicate & smooth operation (ease & squeeze)
Disc brakes will cope with higher weight & speeds
Don’t brake whilst machine is leaning over
Large machine’s response to indelicate use of controls
Very delicate and precise use of the throttle is needed ‘caress it’
Smooth & delicate use of the clutch is crucial
Additional controls not normally found on smaller machines:
ABS
TCS
Linked brakes
Power-assisted brakes on new BMWs
Brake & clutch fluid reservoirs
Headlamp flasher (passing switch)
Engine cut-out ‘Kill’ switch (emergency use only)
Rev counter (don’t be ‘fixated’)
Temperature gauge
Charging warning light
Oil pressure warning light
Automatic fuel tap?
Safety ‘cut-out’ switch to avoid starting/pulling away with side stand down
Different size, weight & restricted turning circle:
Larger bike with more width & weight from possible fairing & panniers
Seat may be higher & wider – more difficult to place feet on floor
Heavier weight, more difficult to manoeuvre at low speeds & push with engine switched off. More stable at speed.
Needs a larger turning circle
Problems taking machine off stand (58-59) & wheeling it around:
Centre stand - remember ‘technique – not strength’ from CBT
Side stand: put down when off the machine & turn bars to the left. Retract side stand before mounting machine.
Do not sit on machine whilst on either stand
Be aware of cambers, sloping or soft ground when using the stands
Consider using kerbs when parking on side stand on hills
Do not wheel the machine with the engine running or the side stand down.
When wheeling, cover front brake & lean machine into you
Starting & stopping the engine (51-62):
Remember ‘FIGS’ & ‘Safety Position’ routine from CBT
Ensure engine cut-out ‘kill’ switch is ‘ON’
Always use ignition key (not ‘kill’ switch) to switch off.
On-site Handling
Moving off & Stopping
(This is what the instructor will be looking for from each learner rider)
MOVING OFF:
lack of rear observation
Trailing left leg
Too much/too little throttle
Rear brake left on
Poor clutch control
Fingers over front brake lever
STOPPING: wrong foot down
Forgetting clutch (stalling)
Forgetting ‘ABC’ procedure
Front brake on before rear?
Not shutting throttle fully
Clutch in too early
Make sure 1st gear engaged before stopping
Controlled (normal) Braking - (This is what the instructor will be looking for from each learner rider and correcting that learners faults if spotted)
Covering front brake
Forgetting ‘ABC’ procedure
Front brake on before rear?
Fierce and/or ‘pumping’ application
Gear-changing - (This is what the instructor will be looking for from each learner rider and correcting that learners faults if spotted)
Forgetting clutch (clunk)
Not pulling clutch far enough in
Letting clutch out too slowly & losing speed
Pulling clutch in too early with throttle open
Not getting toe under/over lever in time
Resting foot on lever
Slow Riding Skills - (This is what the instructor will be looking for from each learner rider and correcting that learners faults if spotted)
Wobbling handlebars
Relaxed arms & shoulders & comfortable riding position
Don’t grip bars too hard
Slow, smooth & minimal clutch lever movement
Head up & look where you want to go
Keep revs steady – don’t ‘blip’
No foot paddling or dragging left foot
Use only rear brake & don’t cover front brake
Slow Controlled Turning - (This is what the instructor will be looking for from each learner rider and correcting that learners faults if spotted)
Head up & look where you want to go
Turn handlebars & consider counterbalancing
On-Road Pre-Set Tests (three, but this can vary depending on the instructor; approx. 90 minutes total)
How to position in normal bends & deal correctly with bends.
Look well ahead to assess sharpness of bend & road surface
With restricted vision consider: pedestrians, obstructions & oncoming vehicles
Adjust speed & gears on approach, use throttle carefully & maintain smooth, correct line through bend
All aspects of left/right turns at junctions + vision zones
Different types of crossroads + those controlled by traffic lights
Town centre riding; one-way streets, pedestrian crossings & filtering
Look out for road markings & get into & maintain correct lane early
Watch out for drivers changing lanes suddenly & traffic passing on either side.
Roundabouts
Dual carriageways to include overtaking & weather effects
Wind on exposed sections, spray & fog
Dealing safely with other traffic when following behind & overtaking
2 second gap, position for good view & hang back
Is it necessary & legal?
Observe & consider very carefully the possible actions of the driver you are about to overtake.
Moving off safely to include angle starts & ‘U’-turns (pushing & riding)
National speed limit roads & country roads & bends
Dual carriageways; joining, leaving & following other traffic
Overtaking when meeting, filtering & passing stationary vehicles
Moving off safely, emergency stop, ‘U’-turns (pushing & riding) & using stands
(The info for the On Road Pre-Set Tests also apply to 50cc - 124cc learner riders, this means that you will also have to carry out the above Pre-Set Tests if your are doing your A1 or A2 training). |
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), was originally last Thursday but cancelled due to the examiner strikes.
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