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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 07:20 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bit of a marketing ploy. Almost impossible to do with carburettors without a ton of plumbing and air tight tank and float chambers. A few have tried it but its far more trouble than its worth.
On F.I. equipted engines, it might add a few bar of pressure into the inlet but to get a really good charge of air would need a scoop the size of a bus at the front of the bike. You would expend as much power pushing the the air in as you would gain from the extra pressure.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
Bit of a marketing ploy. Almost impossible to do with carburettors without a ton of plumbing and air tight tank and float chambers. A few have tried it but its far more trouble than its worth.
On F.I. equipted engines, it might add a few bar of pressure into the inlet but to get a really good charge of air would need a scoop the size of a bus at the front of the bike. You would expend as much power pushing the the air in as you would gain from the extra pressure.


True, and falce.... ish

'Ram-Air' was used on Suzuki two strokes in the 70's, and was used to describe cylinder head finning that had wider vanes at the front to 'ram' the air through the fins to aid cooling...... in actual fact the opposite works better, having the wider end at the back to let the expanded hot air excape more easily..... as proved by Nacar ducting in the 80's.

In the late 80's Yamaha released the 'hoover-pipe' FZR EXUP with 'FAI' which ambigiuousely was reffered to as either fresh air intake or forced air induction....

System comprised a pair of forward facing air scoops in the front fairing, connected to a sealed air-box over the carburettors, with the carburettor float bowl vents plumbed into the airbox to equalise pressure to the 'ambient' in the air box, and keep carburation metering.

As said to get a true 'ram-air' supercharging effect as in a Ram-Jet engine, the intake scoop size needed to feed a 1000cc engine, would be pretty big.

To get a full cylinder fill, you need 500cc of air per revolution, at say 12,000rpm, that is 200 revs second, or 100 litres of air per second.

Lets say you are traveling at 180Kmh, (aprox 120mph) that is 3Km/min, or 50m/s.

that's 5,000cm per second.....

you need 100,000 cm3 of air per second, so if the length of the column of air you want to catch in that second is 5,000cm, you need an intake area of 20cm2

The FAI scoops on an EXUP were about 3" or 7cm in diameter, so give or take a little were possibly just big enough to get some slight super-charging effect at very high speed.

Probably not enough to get possitive pressure in the inlet manifold as a supercharger would deliver, but enough 'extra' pressure to increase cylinder fill a little.

And has been shown that on bikes like the ZZR1100 Busa & Blackbird, that in the real world, they can beat the speeds predicted in the lab, measuring brake power on a dyno and wind resistance in a wind-tunel... only explanation is the 'ram-air effect', giving the engine a little more top end power at speed, from the intage being crammed with air from the front of the moving vehicle, rather than trying to suck it from the still air around the engine in the lab.

Does it work? Yes, those tests sort of prove it.

Is it significant? Well, 2/3mph, possibly an extra 5bhp, on a 150bhp engine, when traveling at excess of 170mph....

Real world road speeds? Probably NOT very significant at all, and on a smaller engined machine, or lower powered bike?!?!

No.... not REALLY any gains to be found.

Common on modern machines, probably as much for reasons of emmissions, and as Yamaha's suggestion 'FRESH air intake', taking air from the front of the bike, rather, than as would be the case the rear of the engine, where air is likely to be that warmed from passing through the radiator and ducted by the fairing around the engine, picking up more heat, before it reaches the air intake.

Any increase in charge density, is therfore probably due as much or more to lower intake temp than it is to inertial pressure increase!
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
Bit of a marketing ploy. Almost impossible to do with carburettors without a ton of plumbing and air tight tank and float chambers. A few have tried it but its far more trouble than its worth.

It's as easy as pressurising the float bowl instead of leaving it open to atmosphere. Many carbed bikes have pumps anyway so fuel delivery is not compromised. No 'ton of plumbing' required.

Quote:
On F.I. equipted engines, it might add a few bar of pressure into the inlet but to get a really good charge of air would need a scoop the size of a bus at the front of the bike. You would expend as much power pushing the the air in as you would gain from the extra pressure.


Not true at all. Firstly you only gain a few fractions of a bar pressure from ram-air - not even 1psi usually. You actually want the inlet smaller than inside the duct ideally and any 'extra' air just spills around the side and flows away with the other air slipping over the fairing. You don't expend any more energy pushing the air in than you do pushing it around since it's still hitting the forward profile of the bike. Only reduction is whatever loss of CoF you lose from having the duct there in the first place - if any!

So yes, it DOES give an advantage, but only really at very high speeds and not as much as you'd think. This can be tested by mapping the bike on a dyno then taking it on the road, and datalogging AFR for both. You'll find that you have to add fuel on the road to keep a good air-fuel mixture.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm? an interesting thread Thumbs Up
What have I learnt today?
1. Forcing air into your airbox/carbs is a lot more complicated than it appears, and will require more knowledge and competence than I have Sad
2. Well the "Ram-Air" finning/cowl on my old Suzuki GT 250 worked, as I never had it sieze or "nip up".
Maybe that was down to the fact that I always ran all of my GT`s very slightly rich?
I`d rather de-coke than do a top end rebuild, but thats just me.

3. Also if & when I finally get another project bike in the 250cc to 400cc range, putting whopping great air-scoops on the front is`nt going to help a lot Thumbs Up
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
On F.I. equipted engines, it might add a few bar of pressure into the inlet


Yes please, i'd settle for 2 bar absolute. 15psi of boost would make my bike fly.
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G
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Re: Ram air question? Reply with quote

Used to be a pretty common mod on a lot of race bikes - not massively complicated to do.
But no, won't gain you a massive amount of power and was never intended to - as above, if you could get the effect of a 'chager with it at high speed we would have some really ridiculously fast superbikes flying around.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:

teflon-mike.

knowing everything, since ever.


Except how to keep his posts short Razz
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I feel attempting to add ram air air to a BROS is a little optimistic Laughing

Though having said that, there were a few issues of Bike recently about extracting as much speed as possible, on a budget, from an old Divvy. Might be worth you reading Laughing [/b]
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I give the Daily Star version, Mike gives the Times Literary Supplement. But a good read non the less.
Carbs delight in two things:- still air and cold air. Give them that mixture and they will meter fuel and air very accurately. Start putting swirling turbulence into them and they get very upset. I can see the benifit of introducing the cooler air from the front of the engine into the airbox, but it had better be very well baffled.
I have two salient examples sitting in my garage as we 'speak'.

One is a ZZR600 'E' complete with a truly monumental ram air system. It has large twin plenum chambers fed from two ducts at the front of the fairing, leading into the airbox. Concentric with the airbox ducting are two smaller pipes leading to the carb floats, intended to equalise the float pressure. If it works at all I doubt that it made much difference. I junked it all and found I had to lean out my jetting to get good mixture (improving fuel economy by a very notcable amount). Performance is absolutely the same.
The other is a Firestorm that was fine at low speeds but ran very erratically above 60mph. There is a plastic baffle that sits above the front cylinder within the fram V at the headstock. I had left this out whilst trying to tune the carbs. Its pretty vital as without it turbulent air gets straight into the airbox and completley upsets the fuelling. Very negative results from 'ram air'.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
CHR15 wrote:

teflon-mike.
knowing everything, since ever.

Except how to keep his posts short Razz


Knowledge & Application..... I KNOW how to make Nitro-Glycerin with a bar of soap and nitric acid... doesn't mean I have ever TRIED!

Did get secondary school top floor evacuated a couple of times though; most memorably dropping a sugar cube in a bottle of suphuric acid.......

Though 'master' jape at A-Level washing a nitric acid titration dropper out with distilled water, didn't have the effect intended when I squirted the colourless, oderless liquid from 'Concentrated Nitric Acid' bottle at Joanne Checkets.... who utterly FAILED to follow lab protocol for acid spill, and rip all her cloths off and dive under the shower head at the front of the lab.... she just sort of did an epileptic jiggle in the middle of the room, flapping her arms around a lot.

But then my my Lab-Tutor I think had been 'warned' about me... he didn't even blink; just stood there and watched.... I think he was he was thinking; 'Damn girl, NEVER listens to a word I say, she ought to be naked and in the shower by now!'
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 00:48 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember that there was some tests done once with a ZZR1100, it might have been by JR for Performance bikes. they used a sensor to measure pressure in the airbox, and i think at the 150-160mph speeds they were seeing about 0.4-.05psi. So yes at 170mph, you could quite possibly add 5bhp to a 150bhp bike.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 01:22 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
they were seeing about 0.4-.05psi

Half a psi?
Are you sure it wasn't half a bar?
Half a psi would barely ripple the hairs on the back of your hand, but at 170mph wind pressure ought to be enough to lift you up!
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G
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PostPosted: 02:35 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have thought half a bar would give the possibility of pretty decent hp gains?

Google comes up with this.
So 1 psi gives 16hp boost when we're talking around 250hp.
So things being the same, .5 psi seems reasonable.
Half a bar seems rather a lot of pressure generally to me - we're then talking a factory turbo on various cars I believe?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 07:27 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
stevo as b4 wrote:
they were seeing about 0.4-.05psi

Half a psi?
Are you sure it wasn't half a bar?
Half a psi would barely ripple the hairs on the back of your hand, but at 170mph wind pressure ought to be enough to lift you up!


If you could generate half a bar of wind pressure at 170mph you would never be able to hold onto your bike's handlebars.

My hand is approx 30 square inches in area so if I stuck my hand out of a car window at 170, half a bar of pressure would have 210lb of force acting on it - nearly 100 kilos on just my hand!

Half a pound is about right.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:


If you could generate half a bar of wind pressure at 170mph you would never be able to hold onto your bike's handlebars.

My hand is approx 30 square inches in area so if I stuck my hand out of a car window at 170, half a bar of pressure would have 210lb of force acting on it - nearly 100 kilos on just my hand!

Half a pound is about right.


Yeah, I was sat thinking about it, and makes sense; just the 'quantification' half a pis when you measure it in a tyre is bog all.

Had daft idea to do a bit of science with a pair of old kitchen scales and a number-plate out the car sun roof.... scales go to 5lb... doing some sums to work out roughly what size to cut the plate, to get something less than FSD I'd need to make the plate smaller than the scale pan!

Also worked out that half a psi of wind pressure is more than a good woman lying on top of you........

Still doesn't seem an awful 'lot' though when you consider ambient pressure is about 15psi.... BUT as CHRI%, difference is actually more significant when you think it will be the pressure difference between the vaccuum in the inlet tract and the pressure in the air-box....
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 02:49 - 18 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

teflon-mike:

I must admit I never managed to get lab strumpet to strip off but I did figure out how to turn esbit tablets into RDX!
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 19 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a small but not insignificant amount of positive pressure that is worth having, if your going to be travelling in the 150-170mph+ region.

There are some further benefits too!
1, The small say +0.5psi of pressure can cancel out any restriction to airflow that the airbox, inlet tracts, and the filter element might have, so it's effectively like running an open carb mouth, but with a small positive pressure to feed it.

2, The other main benefit of Ram air, is that your always sucking in the coolest possible air, as the wind chill factor and the extreme distance from the exhausts, and engine heat of the intake scoops means you get the most cool dense air entering the engine, which you don't get if the airbox entry is under the set or under the fuel tank etc.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 20 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

All that except for the wind chill comment.
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