CG125-M1 Headlamp/Brakes/Traffic lights

[Ingah]

Have a CG125, 2002 model (kick and electric start), and have been using it to get to work as a backup for when my notoriously unreliable CB500 is in need of work / fixing.

Might be forced to sell this CG though as i'm really struggling to make it safe enough to ride. Brakes (dual drums) are dire, stability and road-holding is quite low, and worst of all (i work until ~11pm at night) i can't bloody see anything. There is also an additional problem of it not triggering traffic lights like the 500 does, which is causing me to risk being fined, all due to the crappy design of traffic lights.

The stability is going to be due to the lack of weight (i weigh nearly as much as the bike itself) so i accept there's nothing i can (should) do, as it's already slow enough, so adding weight is not a good idea.

My commute involves travelling on some pitch black roads so my number 1 concern is the headlamp's poor performance. I've been adjusting it to get the most out of it, but the fact remains that even with the upgraded bulb (35W Halogen, Halfords BikeIt range), it just doesn't light up enough road for me to see if there's been any spillages on the road. I can barely see medium sized objects.

The bulb fitment is BA20d (Bosch). I have heard on other forums you can use a 55W bulb, but then other people who claim to know what they are talking about say that the CG125's alternator is so poor that they would be less bright (Note: I suspect they are referring to earlier CG's without electric start but there is no way to know). And besides which, it'll require some wiring changes and/or a new headlamp assembly. I suppose not a big problem if it works, i've got crimping tools, but i'm unwilling to invest the time and money gathering materials and learning how to use the crimping set properly etc, if it's not going to help.

Number 2 concern is brakes. I've got new OEM shoes on the front, and thoroughly copper greased the cam recently (when i fitted the shoes). Also used wire and brake cleaner on the wheel-hub side. But the performance is still poor. I've wondered if it could be anything to do with the wear on the wheel-hub side, as i think it's passed it's wear limit (if i understand the markings correctly). I'd entertain the notion of changing the front wheel for an 04 onwards CG to get the disc (and buy some decent pads to go with it), but again, costs time and money and i don't want to spend either unless someone who's already tried it can tell me how amazing it is

Traffic lights. The bike just doesn't set off a few on the way home (including a couple on steep upwards hills so i can't push the bike up eassily), and as there's never any traffic at night... i really need to sort it out. Vaguely remember hearing you can stick some kind of metal to the bottom of the bike and it'll help. Can't remember what metal it is, or even if it's a load of balls. Digging the centre stand into the road doesn't work at all (previously heard it might).

I don't want to spend any more on upgrading the bike than i have to as if i can't get these problems sorted i won't be getting my money back when i sell it. But if i can sort these issues out in a way that leaves me satisfied, then i'm happy to spend as i'll get my money back in petrol savings etc vs using the big bike.

So... anyone else had any experience with these problems/solutions?
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-- Ingah

[N cee thirty]

should be able to run the better bulb as people say,the alternator on the ones with electric start models should power it fine
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'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[unitynotsocri...]

cg's are great,especially if you want to learn basic mechanics.

the lights are crap as its designed for urban commutes,

the roadholding,like lots of smaller bikes is a bit crappy due to the tyres being 100% nylon,in the wet they are lethal but legal.

as for the drum brakes well....not much to say apart from make sure the operating levers on the drums are lined up properly and give the the shoes a quick rasp with a fine file every thousand miles as they glaze quickly.

If you change the front wheel then you'd probably have to change the front forks as well
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nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS

[Ingah]

I'm rolling on Metzeler ME22's, so not exactly the worst tyres in the world (am aware Pilot Sportys are best, but my tyres are both near-new, so no chance at the moment).
To be fair though, i'm comparing with my BT45-shod CB500. It's not a fair contest for the road-holding, so i'm not even going to try there.

I haven't even mentioned to vaguely alarming way the rear suspension bounces. That's not a safety issue, merely amusing.

I'm hoping i can modify mine into a more versatile machine - the (lack of) power, i can tolerate on my commute, it's these other issues that are getting in the way of what could be a really cheap to run AND good-enough machine. Riding it home at the moment is me taking needless chance with my life as i wouldn't see a hazard until it had me off. And that's just silly when you think about it.

That's a shame about having to change the forks too - no chance that'd be economical. It's looking more and more like i should sell and get some sort of 250 as a second bike instead, for the additional weight and more capable components.

I've already learned the basic mechanics, the reason my CB500 is currently off the road is because i'm swapping the full front end from another CB500 onto it. Maybe i should let go of the CG now, i've owned it for 4 years
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-- Ingah

[unitynotsocri...]

there's always a good market for cg's ,you'd have more fun on an old honda rs250 or a kawasaki z200 if you could find one.

rear shocks are'nt good on some older small bikes,try taking the springs up a notch.

the suspension is a bit flimsy on Cg's so any weakness in the shock/fork department can make them a bit pogo y above 40

a mate has cb500 twin.there's a few variations on the front end,one model has a brembo caliper which he thinks is better.
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nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS

[Ingah]

[Smiley]

i have a honda cg! and the one thing that i did to modify the head lamp! was getting a set of bright white leds! and sitting them into the head lamp! the way u can mount them is thought sitting a small 12v battery in the back of the head lamp!! or wiring them into the back of the blub! u can pick up the leds off ebay!! or u could pick them up at car mod shops! coz the ones im using are meant to be modding a car!
hope it helps!
Smiley

[yen_powell]

If you can see the loops for the traffic lights try and position your bike over one of the corners only. One of the reasons well designed ones are diamond shape to oncoming traffic is that they are more sensitive at this point.

Having said that, traffic light loops shouldn't be the trigger for a green signal, but are usually there to extend a green time if traffic flow is high on the main route.
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Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[Ingah]

Cheers for the responses guys so far but i got a feeling my best bet is working out how much this approach would cost, i'm still undecided on whether it's worth bothering over selling the bike (and taking the inevitable costs and faff factor that changing bike incurs):

From https://hondacg125.awardspace.com/accessories.htm#Headlight%20Bulb
"Replace the headlight case with a universal full sized headlight case (Honda CG125 is undersized), this will probably have a significant effect on performance.
Put a standard 60/55w Halogen bulb in it (a universal full sized headlight is designed for it).
Put a new wire (5A or higher) from the headlight (since the old wire can not handle the power consumption of the new bulb) to the handlebars.
Get a universal electrical headlight handlebar switch (from Hein Gericke for example) to switch it on and off (it can also handle the extra power consumption).
An alternative to replacing the headlight handlebar switch is to fit a relay switch, as long as the headlight handlebar switch can switch the headlight off (some can not).
Put another new wire (5A or higher) from the new handlebar switch straight in to the battery with a fuse (5A) to protect the battery and the wire.
There is a small chance 5A is not high enough and so the fuse would blow, 6A will be ok for sure. 12V * 6A = 72w.
Cars often use the same 12V 60/55w Halogen bulb so their wire, fuses and switches will also work, check out car accessory shops."

I'm trying to work out how much that'll cost and what exactly i need to buy... (i know mechanics OK and was good at basic electrical physics back when i was studying it years ago.. but it's not helping very much as it's vague memories):

Rough indications from egay are that the universal headlight casing (not optional by the sound of things?) is about £20 new, new 6A wiring can't be more than £3 or so, i'd probably go with a relay switch as it sounds much cheaper and maybe even less bother than trying to fit a new headlight control switch (but not sure what kind of "relay switch" i require, or type, or specification..?)
Would i also require that fuse and wiring it to the battery if i was using the relay switch?

Argh, there must be a market for some sort of "kit" for this. I for one, would happily pay a couple of extra quid for a business to send out everything i need, all at once, without any fears i've missed something... (i can't be the only one that suffers from extreme frustration when part-way through a job and missing a vital piece).
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-- Ingah

[von1papen]

I feel your pain, I travel up to 500 miles a week on my CG, mainly made up of 4 100 mile commutes a week!

Drum brakes are crap, just sand the hubs and shoes and adjust them up as tightly as you can without the the shoes rubbing against the hub with normal use.

Also had the traffic light thing, kind of irritating.

Lighting is shite I know, the joy of not being able to see a thing in pissing rain coming down a dual carriage way at 65 swapping lanes because you can't even see the lean of the road.

Playing dodge the articulated Lorry is also a favourite pass time!

I love the wee bike and it does what it says on the tin, but they aren't really designed for the abuse we both seem to be giving the bikes

[cb1rocket]

I have an H100S and that uses drum brakes too, and abit smaller in size!

The most single one problem with the brakes being crap esp. the front is a dry cable with no oil or lubrication to let it slide easily.

I bought my H100S with crap brakes, but I overhaul them and grease every moving part with a well oiled cable and its more than capable at doing emergency stops in time.

If the cable is really crap then get a new one. The CG although I have ridden one, I have never owned one has to be the best commuter bike about. Keep at it

[tahrey]