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Big bucket of concrete

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fatpies
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Big bucket of concrete Reply with quote

A number of suggestions say ground anchor in a massive bucket of concrete. But erm without calling a ready mix company my local one has a min 4m2 order (1 m2 is supposed to be 2300kilos and 4 m2 would probably be too big and heavy) how exactly do you mix concrete without one of those rotating drum thingies?

I'm not a builder and home improvement is unknown to me (I rent)

Sure I can go to B&Q and buy a bag of blur circle, but then what? And is it concrete of is that cement? Concrete? Stuff I need to add to it? And how big is big enough? half a cubic metre? erm 500 odd kilos?

Help me here!
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=11087501

Ready made, just add water. Lay a sheet of polythene down, empty bag onto it, make a dent in the middle and slowly add water, mix with a spade. When it's like a thick porridge, slop it into the bucket.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to B&Q`s and buy ready mixed fence-post mix.
It comes in 25kg bags and is ready mixed, so all you have to do is add water and stir it up.

does`nt get much easier than that Thumbs Up
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Go to B&Q`s and buy ready mixed fence-post mix.
It comes in 25kg bags and is ready mixed, so all you have to do is add water and stir it up.

does`nt get much easier than that Thumbs Up


+1
I chain link fenced my garden with that stuff, couldn't be easier.
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herulach
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can buy instant concrete you just go over with a watering can, only you'll have to build it up in layers potentially not quite as strong, but should still work.
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dodgydog
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wickes "postcrete"
Dig hole, pour in bucket of water, pour in bag of postcrete.
No mixing.
Sets quick too.



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Renton
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Re: Big bucket of concrete Reply with quote

fatpies wrote:
(1 m2 is supposed to be 2300kilos


1 cubic meter is generally equivalent to 1.8 metric tonnes.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Re: Big bucket of concrete Reply with quote

fatpies wrote:
A number of suggestions say ground anchor in a massive bucket of concrete. But erm without calling a ready mix company my local one has a min 4m2 order (1 m2 is supposed to be 2300kilos and 4 m2 would probably be too big and heavy) how exactly do you mix concrete without one of those rotating drum thingies?

I'm not a builder and home improvement is unknown to me (I rent)

Sure I can go to B&Q and buy a bag of blur circle, but then what? And is it concrete of is that cement? Concrete? Stuff I need to add to it? And how big is big enough? half a cubic metre? erm 500 odd kilos?

Help me here!



Concrete is cement with gravel and sand added, mix cement powder et al yourself or buy it ready mixed and add water.

Remember to fill most of the barrel up with other shit first, anything bulky and heavy (gravel, bricks, scrap steel etc etc etc) then just use the concrete to stick it all together. Will cost you a fortune if you fill the whole thing with bags of concrete Wink .

Karma if you put a picture of nobcat on the side of the barrel when it is done.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Re: Big bucket of concrete Reply with quote

Chalky wrote:
fatpies wrote:
(1 m2 is supposed to be 2300kilos


1 cubic meter is generally equivalent to 1.8 metric tonnes.


More like 2.5 tonnes. I'd say a good anchor would take perhaps 10-15 bags of ready-mix concrete. There's no real need to mix it much if it's going in the ground, just dig your hole, chuck in whatever you're using for a fixing, pour in bags of mix and half-buckets of water alternately. Moisture from the ground will do the rest.
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Bendy
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doesn't have to be all concrete, when I built my water butt anchor I filled it with rubble, bricks, old car batteries, all kinds of shit that was lying around. The concrete was just to bind it all together.
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Cunnington
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Concrete density - designers generally assume 2.4 tonnes per cubic metre - the cube test results I got in last week were 2385 and 2350 kg/m3.

If you want to fill a barrel, you will know the volume. I would recommend postcrete if you dont have anything to mix it with - handmixing any volume is hard work and you would be cheaper buying postcrete rather than hiring a mixer. Allow a bag for every 10 litres and follow the instructions - pour in some water, pour in the bag, quick stir, job done.

I'd put a bag in the bottom, chuck any bricks, stones etc on top, keeping it away from the sides if you can, more water, more bags etc.

If you are casting a chain in, put a bar through one of the links within the concrete to resist pulling it out.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You couldn't pull a nail out of cast-in concrete with a crowbar, there'd be no need for a bar through any chain.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.simetric.co.uk/si_materials.htm
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Bendy
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I set a flexible pipe in mine so I could thread a chain through it but be able to remove it if I wanted - like when I moved house and left the butt behind.
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blade023
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 05 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fatpies; I've done a fair bit of concreting myself, and it's easy enough to do without a mixer. You do need to get the proportions right though. The 20Kg bag on the B&Q site linked is far too much, for a medium sized bucket you only need enough to bind your ballast (that's the sand and gravel.) I'd say about 5Kg at most, and you should be able to find such sizes in B&Q. Most cement and 'postcrete' will have instructions and ratios on them, but I'd use about a 1:2:4 ratio, cement:sand:gravel. That should give you a good strong mix. Then just slowly add water until it starts to bind together.

For mixing it, I've done it on a flat concrete floor, or you can use a board if you're good with a shovel (you need to be quick to stop the water running away!) The best way would be a large wide bucket, or better a wheelbarrow.

If you're anywhere near the southwest I'd be willing to do it for you for a couple of beer tokens. YouTube is also a good place to find vids on the technique of it, but stick to those ratios I mentioned Wink
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McFlufferson
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 06 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time we did it when the mixer was kanked it was the typical 3:2:1 mix (limestone/sharpsand/cement) in a black wheely bin. If you have something to contain the mix when you pore it you can make it almost as runny as you want for ease of mixing and poring, so you don't need to be too careful about how much water you put in. We usually use 2x4s nailed together. Once it's really dry they'll just pop off.

Sidenotes:

- You can use whatever you want as ballast if you don't plan on putting any real weight on it or expect it to last forever. They used to use rubbish, pebbles and old metal. Not so great for old concrete houses once the shit starts to degrade and the metal rust, but for a pad.. *shrugs*.

- Limestone is the best ballast as it's basically the solid form of cement (cement is the after effect of limestone treated with acid). Once the concrete dries the rest of the mixture binds to it very well. 20mm is what we use for anything that needs to hold real weight - i.e driveways. 10mm is good enough though and does make it much easier to pore. There is no price difference, however.

- If it rains before the concrete is dry but after it's started to set, this will weaken the finished product as it works its way in to the mix and breaks up the bind.

- Postmix is great stuff. For posts. Perhaps not so great for any flat pads. But it seems you really just want a big lump of concrete. So it might work.

P.s one full mix of 3:2:1 will be about £25 for the materials and each mix will weigh approx. 165kg once dry.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 06 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

blade023 wrote:
Fatpies; I've done a fair bit of concreting myself, and it's easy enough to do without a mixer. You do need to get the proportions right though. The 20Kg bag on the B&Q site linked is far too much, for a medium sized bucket you only need enough to bind your ballast (that's the sand and gravel.)


Except the link I put was for ready mixed stuff that you just add water to. 20kg isn't enough for a decent deterrent. - if a gang is lifting a 180kg bike into a van, the 20kg won't make much difference to them.
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Cunnington
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 06 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

McFlufferson wrote:


- If it rains before the concrete is dry but after it's started to set, this will weaken the finished product as it works its way in to the mix and breaks up the bind.



Bollocks! Portland Cement (the binder in concrete) is hydraulic, which means it will cure (gain strength) under water. This is how we are able to pour concrete under water. A high saturation of moisture is required for the chemical reactions in the cement to continue, which is why moisture retaining membranes are applied to large surface area pours.

Cover it with a plastic bag if it is going to rain.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 06 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's all a bit academic when all the OP is looking for is a big heavy lump of 'something'.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 06 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
It's all a bit academic when all the OP is looking for is a big heavy lump of 'something'.


The builders I know didn't do much Academic.
But they did make Loadsamoney... Smile
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blade023
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 06 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
blade023 wrote:
Fatpies; I've done a fair bit of concreting myself, and it's easy enough to do without a mixer. You do need to get the proportions right though. The 20Kg bag on the B&Q site linked is far too much, for a medium sized bucket you only need enough to bind your ballast (that's the sand and gravel.)


Except the link I put was for ready mixed stuff that you just add water to. 20kg isn't enough for a decent deterrent. - if a gang is lifting a 180kg bike into a van, the 20kg won't make much difference to them.


Got slightly mixed up there, I saw 'blue circle' and just thought cement. The ready mix stuff only has sand in it as far as I know, if you add a coarse ballast as well it can give a stronger mix. Plus at 1:2:4 you'd be using 5kg cement, 10kg sand, and 20kg gravel. I wasn't thinking about 'deterrent' I was thinking about 'average bucket size.' Since you put it that way, I'd agree that 20kg isn't really much of a deterrent to the determined.

To be honest it's too expensive and impractical to make a bike unstealable, I personally have mine chained to a ground anchor. I've also been making a door for the bike shelter (and will be working on the side wall soon.) It's not to stop thieves, it's to keep the bike out of sight. That and a 'cctv' notice could be pretty effective, especially with a dummy camera I have spare.
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JBurrows88
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 06 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you using as the ground anchor... Most normal steel bar is quite easy to break through.. It might add 15seconds to an attempt to steal whatever you've locked up.

I saw tests somewhere about how almost all locks can be broken within a minute (but at least its some form of a deterrent)
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McFlufferson
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 06 Nov 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cunnington wrote:
McFlufferson wrote:


- If it rains before the concrete is dry but after it's started to set, this will weaken the finished product as it works its way in to the mix and breaks up the bind.



Bollocks! Portland Cement (the binder in concrete) is hydraulic, which means it will cure (gain strength) under water. This is how we are able to pour concrete under water. A high saturation of moisture is required for the chemical reactions in the cement to continue, which is why moisture retaining membranes are applied to large surface area pours.

Cover it with a plastic bag if it is going to rain.


Bollocks, penis, vagina and ovaries.
I stand corrected. You're just a fantastic and knowledgeable person.
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 10 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

nobcat.jpg for mod.
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