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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 15 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

blade023 wrote:
Are you planning on open sourcing everything still? If you are, and you have a chance at some point, I'd quite like to see an overview type checklist thingy with your progress and planned features/jobs to do.
Yes, I'm still intending to do so. I'd post more about it now, but have got to support a workshop session in about ten minutes.
blade023 wrote:
Also found some very useful things regarding tacho and speedo signals. I've already got a working tacho circuit that's pretty simple to implement and interface with the arduino, that eliminates the issues of voltage conversion and whatnot.
That's good. Would like to nick your notes on that, since I never spent much energy on getting that bit sorted yet.
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blade023
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 15 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be posting more info up on the site pretty soon. I didn't really get a chance to mess about with any more arduino stuff today. I sorted the alarm out, so there's no more auto battery drain device fitted. I still need to fix the neutral switch, but I need to find a replacement cos the one I have is buggered. I know it's buggered cos I made sure it was. Just a bit reluctant to pay £35 for a little switch.
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blade023
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 15 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The latest update on my webpage shows and describes the circuit I used to get the tacho signal to the arduino if you're interested. There's also a copy of the latest code I've written for it.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 16 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managing to make some progress, thanks to the work done by blade023 on his dash - opto-isolators are indeed the way to go. Once I've got the circuit diagram finalised, I'll post it on here, and pending any advice from people who are more electronically gifted than I, I'll order the parts.

:edit: I'll be using opto-isolators for as much of the bike/board interface as possible, since I don't want to toast the Arduino. The only thing that's going to be directly connected is the gear indicator (if I elect to have it - I'm still in two minds, regarding that), since it's a 0-5v resistance-based sensor.
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blade023
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PostPosted: 00:15 - 17 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow that's great! Glad I could be of some assistance. I have to admit I've been distracted by a few things, but next week should see some progress. Regarding optoisolators, the one I got was a 4way as the shop was out of stock of the 2way ones. Glad I got it now, because it simplifies adding more inputs. On that note, I'm planning to use it for the neutral switch as well. You could isolate the n-switch from the bike's loom, and use it directly, but after rooting round in my bike's wiring loom I never want to go there again. Hence using the optoisolator for the neutral switch at origional voltage. Plus the circuit for it is the same as the tacho.

Oh, and the wire is right there at the dash. In fact.. it would almost be better to get a male and female version of the plug used in the dash, and make an adaptor up. That way you wouldn't even need to worry about splicing/cutting wires, or poking connector pins into the back of the plug. Hmm....

And I've just realised you said gear indicator not neutral switch. I'm a muppet. For the gear indicator I'm just going to do some really clever math using tacho and speed. Simples.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 10 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bumpage Smile

What's the latest?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 10 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uh, looking for some assistance in hooking the thing into my bike. BillyJ has offered to help, although I need to get back in touch with him to work out when.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 25 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slight update: progress is occurring, thanks to the input of BillyJ. I will post more info a bit later on.
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BillyJ
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 26 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:
All is looking promising and we've made good progress. I'm just figuring out how to take 5-6v varying dc voltage down to 0-5v varying voltage(This is the tacho output and probably the speedo output as well). So if there are any electronic engineers out there then help.

For those who can help, this is what i have thought:

Inverting rail-rail Opamp,
Inverting input=5v
Rf/Rin = 5 (i.e. 50k/10k)
Power rails are going to be +5v and -5v

And then invert the output in software

Or see attachment, top signal is input, bottom signal is output.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 26 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some powerful Juju right there, that is. *strokes chin knowingly*

I have no idea what the lad's on about, but he seems confident enough for me to trust his word Laughing
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Codemonkey
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PostPosted: 08:05 - 27 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you doing with the signal ? Are you just measuring the frequency on a digital input ?

If so, I wouldn't bother with the op-amp, just use either a resistor divider to scale it down, or a series resistor and a zener diode shunt to clamp the voltage to something like 4.7V. The zener option will also give a bit of input protection against any spikes coupled into the signal.

So:
Code:


---RESISTOR----+-------DIO Pin
               |
               R
               E
               S
               I
               S
               T
               O
               R
               |
---------------+-----GND

or

---RESISTOR----+-------DIO Pin
               |
            \_____
              / \ \
             /   \ (4V7)
             --+--
               |
               |
               |
---------------+-----GND


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BillyJ
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 27 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep I did pretty much that last night,
I'll upload a scan of the circuit diagrams for the dc/pwm inputs later, I'm out the house at the moment.

I basically zener clamped all the inputs.
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blade023
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PostPosted: 00:53 - 30 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any more updates on this? I've been making some slow progress as my gaming enthusiasm has waned and there's not much on tv to watch at the moment. Just some falling skies which is quite good. I'd be interested to see a summary of your progress so far!
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 30 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

BillyJ's the one to look at for any information regarding actually attaching the thing to the bike: I'm really not that hot on electronic design, despite my best efforts.

I'm intending to release the whole design document once we've got a working prototype together.

As of next week I'm off work for a month, so progress should be much faster. I do have a couple of other projects on at the same time, though, so I can't chuck all my time at this.

This year's been absolute murder so far for me, hence the total lack of updates.
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BillyJ
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 30 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just designing the prototype board for all the input protection.

Its all 12v DC signals, or 7ish volt PWM signals according to all the probing we have done.

Fortunately the SV uses a standard 16pin plug on the dash which means the board I'm designing will just be a direct replacement for the standard dash and will require no cutting of wires. At all.

All the protection is with RC circuits for filtering, and Zener diode clamping. At this point light gates and opto isolation are not feasible. They will draw a little bit of current from each of the signal wires and I've yet to see how much current they can supply (Probably not a lot).

The last little signal cleaner is to stop the Arduino from picking up every single little flicker in the signal and have a fit due to its huge input impedance. I just need to stick a resistor on the end of an output and find at what resistance the voltage drops a bit, then put that in series with the input into the Arduino to take out a bit of noise. This will also tell me how much current the signal line can supply using I=V/R and then we can see from there if opto isolators are useable, but we almost definitely wont use them now, they just aren't needed.

Once the board is complete, which should be soon if i stop playing Minecraft, we're getting it fabricated and then its down to nowhere.elsyium to do software and we're finished (V1.0)!
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 2 years, 347 days between these two posts...

NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 11 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

OMFG.... Glad i found this... As im starting to work and RnD something together myself... Playing with 123d design at the moment just doing a mockup cad...

Oh poo sorry for bumping a 2 year old thread...
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 13 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think almost 3 years qualifies an update! How is this project going?
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 13 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silly idea but I was thinking about putting a variable geometry/vane turbo on my track bike (cbr600 f3) for the 'winter project'.
Essentially will need a bespoke controller to control the turbo,
+ a secondary fuel injection system to supplement the carbs,
+ a lambada/o2? sensor to adjust fuel injection to keep mixture as close to perfect,
+ maybe even some fancy pants algorithms that can continuously refine the map to keep the mixture as close as possible...

Hmmmm...
Might require its own thread maybehaps...
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 13 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

skatefreak wrote:
Silly idea but I was thinking about putting a variable geometry/vane turbo on my track bike (cbr600 f3) for the 'winter project'.
Essentially will need a bespoke controller to control the turbo,
+ a secondary fuel injection system to supplement the carbs,
+ a lambada/o2? sensor to adjust fuel injection to keep mixture as close to perfect,
+ maybe even some fancy pants algorithms that can continuously refine the map to keep the mixture as close as possible...

Hmmmm...
Might require its own thread maybehaps...


Sounds really cool, ill keep an eye out for that. Youll have to post some code and formulas for your mixtures. As I really know nothing about fuel air ratios and what they SHOULD be... Only that if my spark plugs black its to rich Very Happy

Ill be starting my own thread covering my RnD of the digi speedo im designing soon...
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Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:12 - 13 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hah. Wasn't expecting this to get resurrected any time soon.

To answer the main question, yeah, I got it workable, but the SV was a bit more complex to get it hooked into than I was willing to go with. I'm going to be moving home in the next few months, so that'll slow any further progress here for a while, but I'm intending to put this on the VFR when that's up and running. I've had far too much going on in the past six months to do anything much that's bike related, so all this fell by the wayside even harder.

I'll probably need to get the Arduino code rewritten again, since I don't imagine the display library will be even remotely how it was when I last looked at it.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 15 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd consider writing a wrapper for the (presumably) small subset of the display library that you actually use. That way you only have one place to mess around with for library updates rather than the whole codebase!
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 7 years, 286 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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