joelonghair
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Teflon-Mike
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Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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 Posted: 02:59 - 10 Dec 2011  Post subject: |
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Not without tubes.
Rim form of wheels for tubeless tyres is different, and designed to offer more seating support, as the bead's not 'clamped' by being pressed into the rim by the tube.
Tubed tyres also have a 'softer' bead, in anticipation of being levered on and off the rim to fix punctures, where Tubless tyres 'generally' have a very stiff bead, expected to be fitted by machine (like in atyre dealership).
I'm not entirely sure that the Mitch Sporties are actually available in 2.75x18 and 3.00x18; certainly couldn't find any when I checked for the Super-Dream.
However its the standard CG sizings on the old T2, and I can reccomend the Mich M45's. These I do know come in the T2 sizings, have them on Snowies TD-C. As far as grip is concerned, they are plenty sticky enough, and far better than variouse old or budget tyres fitted on some of the other bikes in the fleet! Supposed to last really well too. Snowie's put over a thousand miles on hers, and they are skuffed almost bead to bead (from where I have ridden it!) Very confidence inspiring, and can vouce that they are soft enough to self fit with levers, and do take tubes.
£70 for a pair, plus £20 for new tubes.
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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neil.
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008
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| Posted: 09:56 - 10 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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Pilot Sportys are fantastic and stamped around the side wall is something along the lines of 'for tubed or tubeless rims'.  |
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joelonghair
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 04:20 - 11 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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| joelonghair wrote: | Thanks for the info. Ok so pilot sporties can be used with tubes. I cant get the exact size I need for the rear (can get the 2.75x18 front) but read somewhere that a 90/90x18 will fit the rear - any advice? |
90/90 will fit, but that has the width of an imperial 3.50, and a bigger rolling diameter than a 3.00.
I dont like over-tyreing bikes, especially little ones. More rubber doesn't necesserily mean more grip.
Does mean more rolling resistance, which equals more drag at speed, and less ecconomy (though in this case probably infantesimally small)
Does mean more water between tyre and road to be dispelled by relief grooving, and higher liklihood of 'aquaplaning' or at least more compromised wet weather grip for gained dry weather grip... and in tyhis country I find we tend to have more wet weather than dry....
While bigger the 'bias' difference between front and back, more magnified any handling changes will be.
Also I dont like sticking tubless construction tyres on tubless section rims.
The tube section rim has a taller flange, and the tubless tyre a much stiffer bead. Makes hand levering the tyre onto the rim bludy hard work, boardering on on impossible.
Means paying tyre fitters to remove and remount tyres; which at a £5 a time doesint take long to pay for a set of tyre levers.... (If you buy a new pair of tyres and tubes, possible that you'll save enough on fitting to pay for the tyre levers right away!)
Plus inconvenience, getting wheels to and from a fitters if you ever have a puncture to sort, or anything.
AND with stuffer bead on tubless tyre, more chance that you will kink it on fitting or removal, and scrap the tyre IF you try using irons on it.
For a 'practical' DIY maintained bike; tubed tyres on tube-section rims have a lot of advantages for small 'stability' advantage tubless offer.
Really it's your call....
Just checking the book.... Haynes p133. Doesn't give rim widths... bugga!
Tyres: CB-T; 2.75F 3.00R, CB-TD, 3.00F, 3.25R
Explaining sizings; old imperial sizes presume a 'round' section tyre to fit over a round tube. Ie the sidewall is as high as the tread width (minu a bit that sits in the dish of the rim)
So, a 3.00 size is 3" wide and has 3" of rubber in teh side wall, top and bottom, giving 18" +3"+3" = 24" of rolling diameter.
A metric 90/90 is providing 90mm of tread width with 90% that width in side wall. (100/80, would be 100 wide, 80% side wall)
That's almost cock on 3.50" wide, with 3.15" of side wall, and roling diameter of 24.3"
On roilling diameter its almost slap bang between the 3.00 specced for your bike, and the 3.25 specced for later superdream on rolling diamter... but its a good 1/4" wider than the superdream's rear.
That provides a dilemah; would it match better with a Superdream sized 3.00 front, than a 2.75?
Would give less width differential, but rolling diameter would actually favour the front.
Matched to a 2.75, would it be TOO much of a width differential?
Probably not, I suspect.... its all in the same kind of 'order'.
I dont know how stiff the Pilots construction is. I do know they ARe a tubless construction that CAN be fitted with tubes.
M45's are a tube type tyre, and I have fitted them successfully with levers.
I also know that on the superdream they work damn well, and am more than happy with thier grip.... AND we fitted 2.75F 3.00R to the Pup... becouse its the more common and available CG sizing, that doesn't need special ordering in, and on the Super-Dream reduces rolling resistance and increases ground pressure for better bite, over the 3.00F-3.25R sizing honda upped to from the T....
Sporties dont look like they have the same amount of relief grooving that the M45's have.
Whats intended use?
M45's in standard sizings is the safe bet, and I can vouch that they DO grip well.
Pilots? Well you are on an inbetweenie, so it will change the bikes handling. Whether for better or worse, or how much, would be pure speculation.
Would you gain anything from them? Well ultimate grip, possibly. But its a thirty year old bike, with an 80mph top speed. How hard you ever going to push it? I can deck the pegs on the Super-Dream in the damp at 60... that's plenty good enough for me!
Stickier tyres often are less predictable, and when they reach limit of adhesion, 'break' less progressively... or basically just 'let go' where a tyre with less grip gives more feed-back, and will often 'push' towards the limit, semi-sliding if you want....
I'm talking detail symantics and other people's descriptions now of what they have seen going on under my wheels... I REALLY don't contumaciously think about this stuff, very much... and on bike bikes, with more weight, that when they 'go' will often go more slowly, meaning some-one can actually see the tail creeping or whatever, where on a lightweight, with much less 'momentum' break point is often far sharper to begin with.....
My advice HAS to be go for the 2.75F - 3.00R M45's I think. They are size and construction intended for those rims and that bike, and they do work well, and I can vouch for them.
I cannot say, what the pilots might do.
If you are a fair weather rider; might make a smindgins difference to braking distance.... but with that russian roulette cable disc front brake, if you still have it.. hardly going to make any difference;
And I think you would have to be a pretty exhuberant and pretty expert rider to really exploit any dry weather advantage Pilots might offer... I am, and I know that I wouldn't want to! Have already cought myself out being a 'bit silly' with the superdreams, more times than I ought to!
Bottom line its your call. BUT, M45's are a decent modern construction tyre, FAR better than anything Honda ever invissaged could be fitted to that bike thirty five years ago when they designed it.
I can vouch for the fact that they work, and work to a limit at least beyond the capabilities of the more sophisticated Super-Dream with twin pistion hydrailic front brake, and sophisticated (more so even than contempary CBR125 with simple cantilever suspension) multi-link rising rate suspension
And they work well wet and dry... and are a good 'all-round tyre'
So the risks going to an odd, non standard sizing, are unlikely to give you much if any advantage, for risk of handling quirks, and compromised wet weather grip.. or the practical drawbacks of the stiffer tyre and less freindly user serviceability.
JUST my 'objective'... I have never tried the pilots, may be brilliant... but a lot of unknowns, and when M45's are more than good enough, and tyres no longer the weak link, is there any point looking for more, and possibly making problems you dont need?
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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joelonghair
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Joined: 04 Nov 2011
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