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Need lecky answer for Thursday AM

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WannaBeDude
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 30 Jan 2012    Post subject: Need lecky answer for Thursday AM Reply with quote
Can i, A ok to just wire it into a plug and connect to my RCD outdoor socket ? Thumbs Up Karma

https://www.diy.com/nav/decor/lighting/outdoor-lighting/security_lights/-specificproducttype-floodlights/Parkhurst-400W-Security-Floorlight-11837515
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Last edited by WannaBeDude on 04:04 - 02 Feb 2012; edited 1 time in total
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 07:17 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
, isn't your socket circuit not already on an RCD/RCBO???? It should be!

But yea you could either plug it into the socket on a plug top and swap out the 13a fuse for 3a.

Even better - get and RCD incorporated mk masterseal switched fuse spur and wire it into that and swap out the fuse for a 3a
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
drzsta wrote:
, isn't your socket circuit not already on an RCD/RCBO???? It should be!


Really? Have they made some rule where you have to retrospectively fit them? I have fuses with fuse wire in them.
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WannaBeDude
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Lamps 400 watts, thought he may need more than a 3 amp fuse. ? Confused Karma
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
drzsta wrote:
, isn't your socket circuit not already on an RCD/RCBO???? It should be!


Really? Have they made some rule where you have to retrospectively fit them? I have fuses with fuse wire in them.



Ah yes, you have the old 3036 fuses.
Considering BS7671 states that unless cables are run in the prescribed zones and cables are more than 50mm depth in the wall or mechanical protection Is used to prevent piercing from nails (which is incredibly hard to meet - standard metal sheathing won't cut it) then it should have RCD protection.

Lighting circuit should be on RCD if you have light fitting in zone 1/2/3 in bathrooms.






A board change in the future will give you much better protection.
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
covdude wrote:
Lamps 400 watts, thought he may need more than a 3 amp fuse. ? Confused Karma



3a should be fine IMO, your looking at a pull of 2a MAX

Even so - if you find it's blowing throw a 5a in.


Don't forget it though, you don't want to leave a 13a on a piece of cable with a csa of 0.75 or 1.0 which you'll probably be using for the light.
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WannaBeDude
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's a RCD garden outdoor socket, and a 400 w light, 3 amp fuse you suggest for the plug ?, should it not be more than that Confused Question
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes mate, so you put a plug on the cable coming from the light - 3A is fine for the plug top, do the math - your lights only pulling 1.8 amps nominal so thats good.

Then plug it into the socket.



Otherwise like I said you'd have to wire up an IP65 RCD protect spur from the socket and wire it into that.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
drzsta wrote:



Ah yes, you have the old 3036 fuses.
Considering BS7671 states that unless cables are run in the prescribed zones and cables are more than 50mm depth in the wall or mechanical protection Is used to prevent piercing from nails (which is incredibly hard to meet - standard metal sheathing won't cut it) then it should have RCD protection.

Lighting circuit should be on RCD if you have light fitting in zone 1/2/3 in bathrooms.






A board change in the future will give you much better protection.


So that's if I was fitting a new one. Is it retrospective?

Incidentally, I still have red and black wires too. None of this Euro mumbo jumbo. Everyone knows red = live, it's intuative.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
Incidentally, I still have red and black wires too. None of this Euro mumbo jumbo. Everyone knows red = live, it's intuative.


As do most houses in the UK.

It's not really hard to work out that black ain't live if you're using old-school T&E. Unless you're the engineer sent out to my mum's house who insisted that her house was wired for 415volts and wouldn't accept that black was neutral.

I've also seen a festival generator engineer wire old-colour tails to new-colour terminals, resulting in a loud bang and smoke pouring out of the amps and lighting equipment.

fun.
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
drzsta wrote:



Ah yes, you have the old 3036 fuses.
Considering BS7671 states that unless cables are run in the prescribed zones and cables are more than 50mm depth in the wall or mechanical protection Is used to prevent piercing from nails (which is incredibly hard to meet - standard metal sheathing won't cut it) then it should have RCD protection.

Lighting circuit should be on RCD if you have light fitting in zone 1/2/3 in bathrooms.






A board change in the future will give you much better protection.


So that's if I was fitting a new one. Is it retrospective?

Incidentally, I still have red and black wires too. None of this Euro mumbo jumbo. Everyone knows red = live, it's intuative.




It is retrospective although the IEE Regulations are not law they are a code of practice, however failure to meet these regulations can void in some cases your house insurance if your electrical installation is not complying with 17th edition or "electrically sound".

They are also can be used as evidence in cases of mispractice in a court of law.


If you had a periodic inspection report ( called installation condition report or something like that now because of the July 2011 ammendment) then they would definitely recommend a board change, you can get MCB's that for your board but I dont think they even make RCBO's for them.

Wylex split load 12 way boards are under £100 at most wholesaler's
An electrician should not take more than a day to do the job - infact in most cases 2-3 hours for a neat and tidy job.

HTH
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Timmeh wrote:
As do most houses in the UK.

It's not really hard to work out that black ain't live if you're using old-school T&E. Unless you're the engineer sent out to my mum's house who insisted that her house was wired for 415volts and wouldn't accept that black was neutral.
fun.


I do not believe that at all, sorry but that is ridiculous - specially as red is from the old 3- phase colours and black from the new.

But if her house was wired for 400 he would only be able to get that reading live to live! Which obviously he would not be able to get unless theoretically she had no neutral.

Anyway - utter tosh.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
drzsta wrote:
Anyway - utter tosh.


Thanks.

You've clearly not been to my mum's house. Methinks he got confused when he saw red, yellow, blue, and black going into her consumer unit.
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Timmeh wrote:
drzsta wrote:
Anyway - utter tosh.


Thanks.

You've clearly not been to my mum's house. Methinks he got confused when he saw red, yellow, blue, and black going into her consumer unit.



Haha, he got confused on some tiny 3-core cable, yet didn't think of looking at the tails entering the main switch in the CU?!

Said "Engineer" is a fuckin disaster monkey Laughing
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
drzsta wrote:

Wylex split load 12 way boards are under £100 at most wholesaler's
An electrician should not take more than a day to do the job - infact in most cases 2-3 hours for a neat and tidy job.

HTH


I bet they wouldn't wire it into red and black cable though and there is absolutely no way I'm chasing new wiring through the plaster.

Which is why I do my own wiring.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's nice to know FUD is alive and well in the land of electricians.
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WannaBeDude
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 31 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
What's FUD for those that skipped the last 8 posts of leky regs ? Smile
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 07:14 - 01 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
drzsta wrote:

Wylex split load 12 way boards are under £100 at most wholesaler's
An electrician should not take more than a day to do the job - infact in most cases 2-3 hours for a neat and tidy job.

HTH


I bet they wouldn't wire it into red and black cable though and there is absolutely no way I'm chasing new wiring through the plaster.

Which is why I do my own wiring.


lol, nothing wrong with red and black - plus there no call for a rewire with harmonised colours just because you've got red & black. All you have is a sticker on the board warning of two wiring colours.


Nothing wrong with doing the wiring yourself, just remember to get it tested and certified.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 01 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
covdude wrote:
What's FUD for those that skipped the last 8 posts of leky regs ? Smile


FUD is Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt :-

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fear,_uncertainty_and_doubt

It's how warranties are sold, and stops people from doing their own repairs.
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WannaBeDude
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PostPosted: 04:11 - 02 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
If someone can confirm this for me asap ..

As afaik, you can wire a light wrong but it still works, but knackers up over time.

Earth will be connected, but is not the issue.

AC plug is brown to fuse, blue for live.

Hard wired light is instructing one to:

Brown to Live

Blue to Neutral

And earth.

So is it ac plug brown to light unit Live or should i be connecting ac plug Blue to light live and ac brown to light nuetral ?

Confused Shocked Karma
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drzsta
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PostPosted: 07:29 - 02 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes BROWN=LIVE connect it onto the fused pin In your plug. EARTH=GREEN&YELLOW that goes into the top pin in your plug. NEUTRAL=BLUE connect that onto the other bottom pin that has NOT got the fuse connected to it.


HTH
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WannaBeDude
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 02 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wire it as a normal plug then, i always thought the blue was live, fuse was eqiupment safety, and earth our safety.

Bet theres many that thought the same ... Embarassed

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Last edited by WannaBeDude on 18:22 - 02 Feb 2012; edited 1 time in total
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 02 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just bung it in, little tip from the trade, lick your fingers and stand in a big bath of water while doing any/all electrical work on sockets. Thumbs Up
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WannaBeDude
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 04 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks to all, up and running, although i've ordered a 300 w bulb to replace to the 400 w ... Karma Thumbs Up

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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 04 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Do you have a graveyard in your back garden?
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