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Honda XR 125 - Oil type & change questions

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Ripp3rCrust
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 06 Feb 2012    Post subject: Honda XR 125 - Oil type & change questions Reply with quote

Hi, I had a look around the forum but couldn't find any topic that answered my questions.
I intend to change the oil on my Honda XR125 for the first time but am unsure about a few things.

Firstly, I am unsure about which type of oil to use. I have read in some places people saying to use 10w30 and in other places to use 10w40 oil, so does anyone know which type of oil the XR125 uses? Is there a significant difference between 10w30 and 40?
Also, would semi-synthetic be sufficeint?

Also I watched a video of an oil change on the CG125 engine (which I believe the XR uses), am I correct in thinking to drain the oil from the engine of the XR125 I unscrew a bolt under the engine which allows the oil to drain, is there some sort of washer I am supposed to replace?

Thanks in advance for any help
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Tuffers
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 07 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes there will be a bolt that you need to loosen for the oil to drain out, dont do it straight after a ride or it will be too hot. Dont do it when its cold or it will be too thick and the full amount wont drain out, go for a ride to get it hot then leave it for 20 mins and then drain the oil (making sure that you have protected the floor from spills =p)

As for the type of oil it needs i have no idea as i have only ever changed oil on my 2T bikes.

Im ashamed i dont even know what oil goes in this bike as i have one too :<
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 00:54 - 08 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

10w/40 semi synthetic will be a more than adequate lubricant for this type of engine. You probably only need a around litre so the cost over standard mineral oil will be negligable.

Ideally the sump plug should be replaced with a new one. But if it's a copper one you can anneal it (soften it) and reuse it after heating it to a bright cherry red colour over a gas ring or with a blow torch and then dropping it into a cup of cold water to quickly cool it.

Used engine oil is highly carcinogenic, so use plastic disposable gloves to protect your hands.
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 08 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't use 'Flushing Oil', don't use oil intended for cars, and don't use additives - any of these could wreck the clutch!

Change the oil filter at the same time.

Try not to get the oil on your skin, or nick some of those disposable plastic gloves from by the diesel pump at the petrol station.

If the washer on the sump plug is scored, you might make it last to the next oil change by turning it around.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 08 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The advice so far is pretty good. Get a new washer, you can sometimes get away with re-using the old one, but sod's law states that if you don't have a new one to hand, it will leak. I tend to buy a packet of sump plug washers from time to time on ebay, 13mm ID off the top of my head fits just about everything.

The engine is not the same as the CG. Your should have a proper oil filter, so change it. The owners manual or Haynes manual will tell you where the sump plug is (either underneath or at the bottom of the left hand side crankcase cover) and where the oil filter is (probably on the right hand side crankcase cover).

Change the oil warm, and when you refill it make sure to check the level with the bike standing upright.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 08 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

they don't have a filter, so no worries there,
if it were me, i'd use the cheapest oil halford has to offer,
and do it every 2000 miles, possibly even less,
oil is cheap, and it only takes 5 mins to do,
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Ripp3rCrust
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 08 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice guys, been quite helpful.

Gloves shouldn't be a problem as I work in a lab so can 'liberate' some from there!

I believe that the XR125 just has a wire mesh rather than an oil filter so if this is cleaned and put back in will that be fine?

Also, this may be a stupid question but what is the purpose of replacing the sump plug and washer? Robby mentioned about oil leakage without using a new one, are there any other reasons?

Thanks
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 08 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ripp3rCrust wrote:
Also, this may be a stupid question but what is the purpose of replacing the sump plug and washer?


If you don't replace the sump plug and washer, the new oil will run out all over the floor (well someone had to be first to say it!).

The washer is usually made from a soft metal, so gets squashed out of shape, or may even crack after a few oil changes. Also, the sump plug can get a bit rounded-off at the corners over time and sod's law dictates that you will eventually need a replacement when you don't have a spare, and the shops are shut!
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weasley
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 08 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as the sump plug is in good shape, no need to change it but for the sake of a few pence, a new washer is advisable. They are a soft alloy and basically squash between the plug and the sump to form a seal. If you have squashed a washer once it won't squash again* so might not seal properly. It's a real PITA to fill your engine with fresh oil only to realise the sump plug is weeping oil - you have to take it off again which means all your oil has to come out.

*unless you anneal it, as described above
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 09 Feb 2012    Post subject: oil change Reply with quote

:karma: him dude,

all good stuff, invest in a magnetic sump plug and fit new washer every time sump plug is removed.

find your bike on cmnsl, see exploded views as you may have ( may have ) centrifugal oil filter.

my mate has cb125 ohc based gilera and has used lucas semi synthetic, when he removed clutch cover to clean centrifugal filter the inside of engine was very ( very clean ) clean not the usual black death seen on the sump floor with vertually no ( vertually no ) debris in the filter.

expensive oil at about £30 for 4.5 litres but it did 4 oil changes so well worth it.
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Ripp3rCrust
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 14 Feb 2012    Post subject: Re: oil change Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Karma him dude,


Don't worry, I have given karma to everyone who has replied! Reckon I will change it this weekend, drain the old oil out then pop down to the local car/bike shop to get a replacement washer and sump plug.

How often do you reckon the air filter should be changed?
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 2 years, 73 days between these two posts...

conor2014
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 28 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to resurrect a very old thread Smile But could anyone tell me if these washers are good for the XR 125 oil sump?

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_155044_langId_-1_categoryId_255228
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 28 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. They look like ordinary steel washers. You want copper or soft alloy washers for the crush washer.

The mechanism of sealing is that the soft washed smushes into any small imperfections in the bolt and sump hole, thus filling up any imperfections. For this to work the washer has to be soft relative to the bolt and sump, ie steel washers wont do.

Do you know what diameter the sump drain bolt is?

You want something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/copper-crush-washers-10mm-ID-13mm-OD-/390819923360?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5afeaec5a0

Note those particular ones will likely be too small as the ID (internal diameter) is only 10mm. Ebay search for "crush washer" in the appropriate size and you won't go too far wrong.
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conor2014
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice smegballs.

Last night I change my oil successfully, here's what I found:

The 24mm sump bolt unscrews and out pops a spring and a little wire gauze. Also, there is a rubber O ring that fits in a little groove right around the inner side of the sump bolt; according to my users manual, you just need to check the condition of the O ring and the gauze and reinstall them. This is what I did - the O ring was in good condition, so I just screwed it back in after popping the gauze and the spring in first.

I didn't have a torque wrench, my manual says to tighten it to 15nm, but I turned it finger tight then with the spanner until there was some resistance - at that point I nudged it a couple of times (probably about 1/8th of a turn) and that was it.

So far no leaks, and the engine seems to be running nice and smooth Smile The bike was new to me, and the last owner hadn't changed the oil in 3000 miles; so I think this was well overdue.

Just the spark plug and oil filter to do tomorrow Smile
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually do the oil and filter at the same time, changing the filter while the sump is still draining out. I also change the filter with every oil change even though most service schedules say to change it every other oil change. For the 3 quid, I just swap it every time.
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conor2014
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I meant to say air filter! There is no oil filter in these bikes, and I didn't have the right socket size to remove the panels to get at the air filter Smile
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conor2014
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Iain_ wrote:
conor2014 wrote:
There is no oil filter in these bikes


What do you suppose the gauze you removed and cleaned is? Wink


Ha - you know what I meant Cool
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not brilliant though is it really?

What ever the particle sizing on a modern bike filter is, its probably orders of magnitude better than whatever crude filtering a bit of gauze can do.
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conor2014
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

smegballs wrote:
It's not brilliant though is it really?

What ever the particle sizing on a modern bike filter is, its probably orders of magnitude better than whatever crude filtering a bit of gauze can do.


No - it doesn't seem brilliant at all. I'm no expert, but I don't understand how this little gauze could even be useful....it just sits in behind the sump plug pressed against a piece of metal with a much smaller hole in it that the oil drains out from Confused

Is it not just filtering oil as it's running out into the drain pan? Laughing

The gauze is only the size of my thumb.
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tomh
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bike does have another oil filter. There is a centrifugal oil filter behind the clutch cover. What millage is the bike on? It could be over due if nobody has ever cleaned it before.

I would wait until the next oil change if it needs doing as you will need to drain the oil to remove the clutch cover.

If your doing this you will need the special castle socket, a new clutch gasket, new jis or atleast a new Phillips screw driver bit (the filter cover is screws will be very tight, so be careful if you don't have a impact driver of rounding the screw head) and a gasket for the filter.

You just then need to clean all the clutch dust (and hopefully nothing else) from the housing and refit.

You can see why this filter gets neglected! Also I've never replaced the o ring on the drain plug and have never had a problem.
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conor2014
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomH wrote:
The bike does have another oil filter. There is a centrifugal oil filter behind the clutch cover. What millage is the bike on? It could be over due if nobody has ever cleaned it before.

I would wait until the next oil change if it needs doing as you will need to drain the oil to remove the clutch cover.

If your doing this you will need the special castle socket, a new clutch gasket, new jis or atleast a new Phillips screw driver bit (the filter cover is screws will be very tight, so be careful if you don't have a impact driver of rounding the screw head) and a gasket for the filter.

You just then need to clean all the clutch dust (and hopefully nothing else) from the housing and refit.

You can see why this filter gets neglected! Also I've never replaced the o ring on the drain plug and have never had a problem.


Wow, yes I can see why that one gets neglected Laughing I thought I was doing well successfully changing the oil Mr. Green

There are 7000 miles on the bike. There hasn't been any record of servicing for a few years, and I know it has been at least 3000 miles since the oil was changed. The oil that I drained out was pure black, and I did think the engine was ticking over a little more smoothly after putting the new stuff in.

Thanks for the info. Thumbs Up
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