Fibreglass Moulding

[rob-jones]

I've currently got an NSR 125, as many of you'll probably know, they're very rare therefore finding bits for it is difficult!

I've been looking at putting a seat cowl on my passenger seat although I can't find ANY on the internet! I somehow came across somebody on an R6 forum who created his own cowl cover by using fibreglass so I did a little research and decided to give it a go..

And by "give it a go.." I mean fail.. badly.

Here's how far I got..

This is the seat at the moment..

https://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u364/HondaNSR125/DSCF00741.jpg

All taped up with the resin and hardener I used..

https://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u364/HondaNSR125/DSCF00801.jpg

After this, I put about 3 layers of fibreglass on, applying a good amount of resin in between each layer. After about 3 layers, my resin starting setting very quickly, within minutes it was almost solid!

This is literally my first ever go so I probably come off as a bit of an idiot haha!

Any idea how I could give it a better attempt next time?

Thanks in advance!
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Currently own a Honda NSR 125.

[rob-jones]

P.S I'm getting the seat re-upholstered before anyone recommends I get that sorted first
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Currently own a Honda NSR 125.

[steven_191]

so has anything actually gone wrong with it? ive never done any fibre glass so cant say how quickly it should set but as long as it stays in one piece how can that be wrong?

the only thing i will say is that you have made some fibreglass that sits on top of the seat. How do you fix it?

maybe you should sort out fixings then fibreglass over the top so they'll be part of the unit.

whats the finished product though? you only have a picture of masking tape

[Ichy]

You shouldn't apply the resin inbetween layers, its more continuous than that.

Do smaller mixes next time


Here is what I do. Tin foil covers the part that I'm using as a template. No reason why just that the resin doesn't soak through. Cut the mat into usable sizes. Mix the resin and hardener as described. A little less hardener will take a bit longer ot go off. I use a paint brush to paint the tin foil with resin and then apply the first sheet. More resin on top and then another sheet. I would now start dabbing the resin into sheet as opposed to painting it. You really want to work it into the fibre. Don't worry if it starts breaking up, it's what you want it to do. Keep going until you've built it to the thickness you want, between 4 and 6 layers should be enough.


watch this and many other videos like it on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMkADs4x4e4
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https://www.metacafe.com/watch/1972097/how_to_behave_on_a_forum/

[rob-jones]

[Cunnington]

To get a good finish, you may want to consider making a mould first, so the outer face that you will eventually see is cast against something. Otherwise, you will need to sand and fill to get a decent surface to paint. When you sand, you will cut through the resin and lift the matting, which you will need to seal, sand again etc.

The strength is in the matting, not the resin, so, ideally, you are looking to use the minimum amount of resin.

Paint the surface of the mould with a release agent, then resin or gelcoat (a specific resin for the surface), apply the first layer of matting and stipple it with your brush until the matting is wetted. Apply the next layer of matting and stipple it again to bring the resin through. Mix up fresh resin if you need to, and apply another layer when you cant wet the matting from below, next layer etc.

The hard bit is the prep for painting.
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