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magneto flywheel keeps coming loose on cg125 1991 honda

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blackbird-1100
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 29 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 19 Feb 2012    Post subject: magneto flywheel keeps coming loose on cg125 1991 honda Reply with quote

dont know if anyone can help me but for some reason my flywheel keeps coming loose on my honda cg125.

i keep tightening the flywheel up, but after a ride round the block it just works loose again.

i was going to put some lock tight on it, but there must be a reason for it keep coming loose any idea's

also it struggles going into 3rd gear at times, its fine going down into 3rd from 4th and up 3rd to 4th and down 3rd to 2nd, it just sruggles going from 2nd up to 3rd could this have anything to do with it.

cheers
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 19 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It'll keep coming loose, becouse its not on tight enough....
Pull it off again. The end of the crank shaft ought to be tapered.

{ASSIDE: I had a lecturer at Uni who had done his Doctorate In engineering, studying the transmission load of taper joints compared to the fastening load; for the titanium inserts on prosthetic hips...
We were subjected to a year of lab-work that repeated his testing with different profile tapers and different atachement forces, measuring the 'release' strength... after three years researching that, no bludy woinder he was half crazed, thats all I can say! Other than}

Clean the taper on the shaft up with some oiled wet and dry sand-paper. Do likewise in the taper of the flywheel. This ought to get rid of any crap between the two that stops them mating well.

If you have it, you can 'lap' the two together; remove the woodruff key from the crank, and use some fine valve grinding past between teh shaft and flywheel, push the two together and work the flywheel back and forth on the crank taper to get a really 'good' matched fit between the two; pull apart, clean off the residues, refit the woodruff, then re-assemble.

Then the 'tip': after tightening yo the flywheel bolt, 'almost' to specced torque setting, slack off 1/4 turn and give the flywheel a few fairly 'firm' smacks with a rubber mallet to shove it onto the crank taper, then tighten the bolt up some more.

ONCE you have the bot torqued up to spec.... THEN remove the bolt, add screw-lock against vibration and do straight up to torque setting.
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SnowyTupwood
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 13 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 20 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good advice there Thumbs Up

Do not, under any circumstances, be tempted to use loctite on the taper itself, you'll never get it off again Shocked

We had to cut one off a TZR250 recently that had been loctited, broke two pullers trying to get it off before using the air cutter Twisted Evil
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