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bikenut |
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bikenut |
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Posted: 16:38 - 23 Feb 2012 Post subject: lifan |
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dude,
no they used to, but nothing will work now unless the engine is running.
ok so bat ok fuse ok fault with ign switch possibly, you have multimeter?? and can do basic checks with it??
over |
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danieladam199... |
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danieladam199... Derestricted Danger
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Posted: 16:43 - 23 Feb 2012 Post subject: Re: lifan |
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bikenut wrote: | dude,
no they used to, but nothing will work now unless the engine is running.
ok so bat ok fuse ok fault with ign switch possibly, you have multimeter?? and can do basic checks with it??
over |
no but i can get one ____________________ Dan
2010-2011 1986 - honda cb125rs, 2011-present 2004 - lifan lf 125 |
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jjdugen |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
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Posted: 18:20 - 23 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
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Electrics are not black magic. They are very, VERY logical, and diagnosing faults MERELY takes a diligent, sytematic LOGICAL approach.
You dont have one.
You are darting around, poking and prodding hoping to find the problem by divination, or luck!
Now; back up; what is actually 'wrong'?
Bike wont start, right?
First check; is the battery charged? No? Charge it up... WHAT do we get?
I dont want to know whats happening when the engine is running, or to be told about the lamps.
Fully charged battery; on the bike. What works, what doesn't. START AT THE BEGINNING, dont rush down possible avenues and get confuddled.
Charged battery; key in ignition, switched 'on'. Does the Neutral Lamp come on? Does the side light work? Does the brake lamp work? BASICS. Check the systems and tell us what DOES and DOES not work as it should.
We know that bridging the solenoid turns the starter and the engine then catches and runs off its self exited ignition. This MAY be pointing us towards a duff regulator; or it could simply be a poor earth, or a faulty contact in the starter switch.
And, debugging electrical gremlins, easy to go chasing these 'suggestions'... DONT... nail down ALL the possibilities from the start point; by elimination; follow the logic, and do it dogmatically.
Charged battery, fresh on the wires, ignition 'on': what works, what doesn't?
Starter motor doesn't start 'on the button'.... so next test: by pass the switch;
>take a bit of wire - (I find a jump lead useful here; clip one end to battery + clip a nail in the other end) from battery + to the feed on the solenoid.
- If solenoid engages, fault lies in the switch or wiring from.
- If solenoid doesn't engage>
>Next Test - isolate the earth. reconnect solenoid feed; bypass earth with flying lead to battery -
- If solenoid engages, you have a dead earth.
- If solenoid doesn't engage>
>Next Test: Flying lead to + bypassing switch, AND Flying lead to - bypassing earth
- If solenoid engages, you have a dead earth, and dead feed: suggests fault in wiring loom.
- If solenoid doesn't engage: Then its something INSIDE the solenoid; The solenoid is jammed; the coil burned out; contacts dirty, or 'something'.
CURE: replace the solenoid... OR attempt to salvage it, opening the thing up.
THAT is the first chain' of logic to hammer out, and put right ONE known fault.
The OTHER faults; bike suspected of not charging, MAY actually be related. Common live rail in the harness, that connects the battery, regulator out-put and feeds the ignition switch to distribute it to the switches, OFTEN attaches at the solenoid permenant + terminal.....
If there is an internal short in the solenoid, then could be that has fried the solenoid, and is whats draining battery and soaking volts from the generator. Could be that the wire has simply come loose.
More suggestions; that you could easily go 'chase'; but DONT... follow the logic; be systematic; dont jump in half way through; Think like an idiot, be dumb, but diligent.
Start fault finding right at the top; battery charged, ignition on; WHAT DO I SEE? and list what works, what doesn't.
Get to the solenoid; follow de-bug tree offered nail it down.
DONT go chasing regulators or harness faults, or pulling the solenoid to bits on the 'probability'...
Its electrics, there are two states ON and OFF. it works, it Doesn't work. its dead simple, all you do is follow the logic systematically. And all WILL become clear. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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danieladam199... |
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danieladam199... Derestricted Danger
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Posted: 18:42 - 23 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
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Teflon-Mike wrote: | Electrics are not black magic. They are very, VERY logical, and diagnosing faults MERELY takes a diligent, sytematic LOGICAL approach.
You dont have one.
You are darting around, poking and prodding hoping to find the problem by divination, or luck!
Now; back up; what is actually 'wrong'?
Bike wont start, right?
First check; is the battery charged? No? Charge it up... WHAT do we get?
I dont want to know whats happening when the engine is running, or to be told about the lamps.
Fully charged battery; on the bike. What works, what doesn't. START AT THE BEGINNING, dont rush down possible avenues and get confuddled.
Charged battery; key in ignition, switched 'on'. Does the Neutral Lamp come on? Does the side light work? Does the brake lamp work? BASICS. Check the systems and tell us what DOES and DOES not work as it should.
We know that bridging the solenoid turns the starter and the engine then catches and runs off its self exited ignition. This MAY be pointing us towards a duff regulator; or it could simply be a poor earth, or a faulty contact in the starter switch.
And, debugging electrical gremlins, easy to go chasing these 'suggestions'... DONT... nail down ALL the possibilities from the start point; by elimination; follow the logic, and do it dogmatically.
Charged battery, fresh on the wires, ignition 'on': what works, what doesn't?
Starter motor doesn't start 'on the button'.... so next test: by pass the switch;
>take a bit of wire - (I find a jump lead useful here; clip one end to battery + clip a nail in the other end) from battery + to the feed on the solenoid.
- If solenoid engages, fault lies in the switch or wiring from.
- If solenoid doesn't engage>
>Next Test - isolate the earth. reconnect solenoid feed; bypass earth with flying lead to battery -
- If solenoid engages, you have a dead earth.
- If solenoid doesn't engage>
>Next Test: Flying lead to + bypassing switch, AND Flying lead to - bypassing earth
- If solenoid engages, you have a dead earth, and dead feed: suggests fault in wiring loom.
- If solenoid doesn't engage: Then its something INSIDE the solenoid; The solenoid is jammed; the coil burned out; contacts dirty, or 'something'.
CURE: replace the solenoid... OR attempt to salvage it, opening the thing up.
THAT is the first chain' of logic to hammer out, and put right ONE known fault.
The OTHER faults; bike suspected of not charging, MAY actually be related. Common live rail in the harness, that connects the battery, regulator out-put and feeds the ignition switch to distribute it to the switches, OFTEN attaches at the solenoid permenant + terminal.....
If there is an internal short in the solenoid, then could be that has fried the solenoid, and is whats draining battery and soaking volts from the generator. Could be that the wire has simply come loose.
More suggestions; that you could easily go 'chase'; but DONT... follow the logic; be systematic; dont jump in half way through; Think like an idiot, be dumb, but diligent.
Start fault finding right at the top; battery charged, ignition on; WHAT DO I SEE? and list what works, what doesn't.
Get to the solenoid; follow de-bug tree offered nail it down.
DONT go chasing regulators or harness faults, or pulling the solenoid to bits on the 'probability'...
Its electrics, there are two states ON and OFF. it works, it Doesn't work. its dead simple, all you do is follow the logic systematically. And all WILL become clear. |
the battery being charged makes no difference to the problem nothing at all will work unless i start the engine by either bump starting or bridging the terminals on the solenoid then things work but only off the alternators power so for e.g. have to rev for the lights to be normal brightness. the starter motor button will work if the engine is already running but wont if its not (if you understand what i mean)?
i will try the solenoid debug tree tomorrow
thanks for the help
Dan ____________________ Dan
2010-2011 1986 - honda cb125rs, 2011-present 2004 - lifan lf 125 |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
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Posted: 20:09 - 23 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
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danieladam1993 wrote: | (if you understand what i mean)? |
Not really...
From the top; EXPLAIN, stop darting back and forth!
1/ So, battery charged & tested, you have 12v on the terminals Y/N?
2/ Battery connected to battery leads on the bike. Switch ignition to 'on' position.
- Does the Neutral lamp come on? Y/N? waggle gear lever. Does it come on then?
- Will the indicators work? Y/N
- Does the side light work? Y/N
- Does the stop lamp work? Y/N
- ANY other electrical equipment? Does it work Y/N
I have suspicions; but suspicions and presumptions with electrics are the mother of all fuck-ups and the way to get into a tangle of wires!
If nothing is working AT ALL (WITHOUT the engine running!), with a good charge holding battery, we are looking for 'something' that is stopping electrons getting out the battery, ent we?
So, back to basics and first principles, and 'nailing down' the variables eliminating each in turn.
So.. find a convenient earth point; and from the battery, by-pass the normal earth route. Jump-Lead from battery - direct to the swing arm bolt, is a good one. Try electrical devices again, look for signs of life. If nothing, try a few alternative earthing points, on teh frame, the engine, on the handle-bars... see if it makes any difference.
If you have a multimeter, try, ignition 'off', buzzing out out continuity testing between battery - and various common earth points. Wipping the tail lamp lens off and trying between batt - and the common earth of the metal cap of the tail lamp bulb is a good one; same on indicators, and any exposed metal bolt on the frame.
Lets make sure that elecrons can get out of the battery! Remember they carry a - charge and run round circuits the opposite way to the current! so they come out the - side of the battery and go back in the + side.
Having made sure that they can get out, THEN we look at the other side and start chasing + volts from the other side of the battery, to see if they can get back in.
Check volts on the terminal again. Then chase the battery lead wherever it goes and test volts where it ends. Look for where volts OUGHT to go from there.
Fuse? Fuse may not be blown... but what kind of fuse is it? Blade? Glass Tube? Did you buzz the main fuse to make SURE its not blown? Often they can 'look' good but actually be 'gone' particularly ceramic ones you cant see the fuse link inside, or coloured blade fuses where the plastic can obscure the link, especially if there is a makers name or fuse rating molded over the link.
Is the fuse ACTUALLY making contact in its holder?
This is 'chasing' the logic.
I'm backing up even further here than where we were with the solenoid, and then going ALMOST as far forwards.
Forget what you THINK you know.... reset; start again, FROM THE TOP; and answer all the 'silly' stupid questions, dont make generalisations, like 'nothing works'... nothing works when? How? What ought to work? the devil is in the detail, so dig into the detail, and work LOGICALLY. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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danieladam199... |
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Posted: 01:59 - 25 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
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problem now solved
The wire thats attached to the fuse was split halfway down
thanks for all of your help ____________________ Dan
2010-2011 1986 - honda cb125rs, 2011-present 2004 - lifan lf 125 |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 61 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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