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Fork oil, what to go for?

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john24ssj
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 08 Aug 2014
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 29 Jun 2015    Post subject: Fork oil, what to go for? Reply with quote
Hi guys,

So will be replacing the fork seals and changing the oil on my ER5. I got the seals from Kawasaki (originals) now all I need is oil.

And I am kind of stuck between Castrol and Motul. Any advice on which one is better or is there even a better brand?

Also what's the difference between mineral and fully synthetic fork oil?

Thank you Smile
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Casper
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 29 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just get what the manual recommends and be done by it.
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john24ssj
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 08 Aug 2014
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PostPosted: 05:59 - 30 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
OEM recommends Showa SS8 but that would need to imported from either Japan or US.

OK so Motul should do, now should I stay with recommended 10W or increase? As my current issues is when I brake the from fork dips too much almost all of it goes in. BUT I guess it could be because it was water inside and is leaking.
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john24ssj
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 08 Aug 2014
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PostPosted: 07:40 - 30 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cool, well got the seals, just bought the oil. Now I need the dust seals and should be good to go. Also plan to paint the forks as well.
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delsol
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 30 Jun 2015    Post subject: Re: Fork oil, what to go for? Reply with quote
john24ssj wrote:
Hi guys,
Also what's the difference between mineral and fully synthetic fork oil?
Thank you Smile


Mineral oils have always been something of a compromise, i.e. formulating a fluid from existing available products.

Synthetic oils should in theory be purpose designed and remove the compromises and guesswork from the the mineral oil potions that the alchemist's will tell is you is 'the best'.

Even if you use fully synthetic it won't change the manufacturer's recommended oil renewal schedules.

There is a temptation to think that fully synth will perform better for longer (and it may well do), but you will never find out what condition the oil is in with out checking it, and if you went to that bother you would change the oil anyway.

So for me it is a question of 'how often do I check it' ?, not being a professional racing biker, mineral or fully synth becomes a moot point, I would not be able to tell the difference.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 30 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
john24ssj wrote:
As my current issues is when I brake the from fork dips too much almost all of it goes in. BUT I guess it could be because it was water inside and is leaking.


Oil viscosity will affect how FAST they compress/rebound but not how FAR.

You would need to fit stiffer/longer springs to sort that problem.

You could also try increasing preload by fitting a longer spacer/pile of washers on top of the existing springs.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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