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Oil change - Do I really need a torque wrench?

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Kingstondavo
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 25 Apr 2012    Post subject: Oil change - Do I really need a torque wrench? Reply with quote

Its just over 1000 miles since my bike had its first service, and I'd quite like to do an oil change, the oil doesnt look too disgusting, but its definitely dirty...

Anyway, what is putting me off is the idea of investing in a decent torque wrench to do this (yes I know I should have one, but I share a 1 bedroom flat with my gf and there isn't enough room for tools as it is, also I dont really have anywhere to work on the bike!)

So, here is my question, good men and women of BCF... how essential is it that I torque the drain plug back up exactly, or will a standard socket set and an appropriate amount of elbow grease do the job?
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finpos
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 25 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a newish bike you would need to be the most ham fisted of the tribe hamfist to strip the threads out.

f.
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recman
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PostPosted: 00:03 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do the drain plug up with less force than you think it needs, give it a few miles, check again, if theres a leak, give it a bit more until the leak stops and you get a feel of the force required.
I think its a fairly safe way to do it, it aint gonna piss out if theres a slight leak on the initial tightening is it?
I have a torque wrench but I've never used it on any car oil changes I've ever done.
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MyCarVsYourHe...
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always used a standard rachet, I do it up snug, and then I give it maybe a 1/4 - 1/3 extra turn, never had a bolt come undone on me.
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Nisp
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PostPosted: 00:52 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

as what my old man said to me " tight, but not too tight "

I had to grind off my sump plug off my 600 as some bastard tightened it up so so tight!! completely flattened the copper ring Shocked

only with head nut's I would use a torque wrench
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TUG
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PostPosted: 00:57 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

No you dont need one, tighten it up so its nipped tight then turn it about 45 degrees more and it will be plenty tight but not tight enough to strip it.

To strip it you really need to put excessive pressure on the thing.
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tlartist
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PostPosted: 02:02 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are going to do any other work on your bike you will for sure want a torque wrench. For the drain bolt you don't really need it. Just make sure it is snug.
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 06:06 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a new washer then a ring spanner to do up the sump plug and only put as much force into it as you can using one hand and a limp wrist. People with torque wrenches will happily keep doing stuff up way past how tight they would using a spanner because it hasn't clicked yet and seem surprised when the bolt falls into two or starts turning after tightening as the threads strip. I save mine for stuff like sprocket bolts or axle nuts.
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numpty2
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PostPosted: 06:32 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

No torque wrench required, just be careful.
I've been servicing my bikes for 25 years and I've never stripped the thread.
I normally don't bother changing the washer, and I've never had "the drips".
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bridlad
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I always torque 90% of stuff up ,but Ive spent 30 years restoring and building specials and its just the way I have always done things after seeing a good few stripped threads and snapped bolts with other peeps ,but you dont have to if you havent got a TW as has been said just dont over do it Thumbs Up
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snikks
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PostPosted: 09:26 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, don't think I've ever used my torque wrench when changing oil - as others have said, do it up until you start to feel resistance (i.e. it's fully in) and then one quarter/half turn more.

I also don't usually bother to change the washer, only if it's been severely mangled.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

No you don't need one.

If you do get one, I'd suggest an old style deflecting beam wrench.

https://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/tw5.jpg

Why? Because it's an aid for mechanical sympathy, not a replacement for it, like a new fangled clicky one.
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Kingstondavo
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers guys - very useful as always! Job lined up for the weekend there then Thumbs Up
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 10:45 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

*Waits for I've cracked my sump after following BCF's advice* thread.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have no experience to speak of maybe it's best to borrow one or something?
It's easy enough to judge when is probably tight enough if you have years of experience with such things but I'm often shocked how little some know on here.

Generally finger tight plus quarter to half turn with the spanner won't be far out.
Check it isn't working lose or dripping a couple of times soon after.

A worse risk for a novice is cross threading.
In a hard to access spot we can all do it sometimes but usually realise almost immediately.
It should turn in smoothly and easily by hand to start with and preferably nearly all the way only needing a key for the last bit.

Be very careful starting it as you can strip threads very easily.
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Kingstondavo
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wafer_Thin_Ham wrote:
*Waits for I've cracked my sump after following BCF's advice* thread.


Laughing Surely there is a claim for compensation there right?

I'm sure a replacement ducati oem part is an absolute bargain anyway... Thinking
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drain Plugs

Tighten them until they break or strip the threads then back them off 1/2 a turn. (***JOKE***)

Drain plugs usually seal by means of soft metal, fibre, leather, plastic gaskets/washers or an o-ring.
Therefore, actual tightness of the plug is a bit irrelevant as far as torque is concerned. (Though there may well be an O.E.M. spec)
As long and there is enough force to deform the gasket/washer or compress the o-ring the plug should stay in place.

For o-ring turn it in until it stops turning.
For gaskets turn it in until it stops turning, then turn it no more than one flat.

If you can feel the amount of effort to tighten it rapidly increase then it wil be tight enough.

But run it and check again when the engine is warmed up.

I've owned bikes for years and not needed a torque wrench much.
Unless you are considering a lot of tecky engine/gearbox work then spend the dosh on your bird. She will love you much more than a bloody torque wrench will.
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Kingstondavo
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:

Unless you are considering a lot of tecky engine/gearbox work then spend the dosh on your bird. She will love you much more than a bloody torque wrench will.


I am not considering doing anything remotely techy (if it aint broke dont fix it mentality)

However Beer & games will get the money before she does Laughing
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

bloody hell, a torque wrench is overkill on a sump drain plug. Oh yes that right I stripped the treads on an old bike Sad even to the manufacture specs.

Torque wrenches are for fuc**** high load, high force requirements, ie cylinder head bolts, crankshaft pinions, flywheel nuts, and anything that looks like a really big nut!
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 26 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got one, so I use it. After seeing plenty of threads about people threading stuff, adn the problems it causes, I wouldn't want to chance it.

However, I don't use it as a "replacement" for mechanical sympathy. It's more so that I can feel confident I've done it properly. Obviously it's not a substitute for common sense!

The rear axle I just do with a breaker bar until it's "fkin tight". Am considering getting a large torque wrench for when doing the clutch.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 02:29 - 27 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have two and use them regularly for pretty much everything. If I didn't have one I wouldn't go out and buy one just for a sump plug though.

I even torque up the wheel nuts on my car using a torque wrench Laughing .


Noxious89123 wrote:



Lol, just saw your sig Laughing Laughing .
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bridlad
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 27 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:
bloody hell, a torque wrench is overkill on a sump drain plug. Oh yes that right I stripped the treads on an old bike Sad even to the manufacture specs.

Torque wrenches are for fuc**** high load, high force requirements, ie cylinder head bolts, crankshaft pinions, flywheel nuts, and anything that looks like a really big nut!


Dont talk so daft Rolling Eyes ,they are used for every size of bolt I use mine on everything from torqueing axle nuts right down to m5 when building engines ,I have a quarter inch drive one which torques from 20inch pound granted since i bought my 3/8 drive which also goes down to 20 inch pound I dont use it ,but they are deffo not only for huge high load applications .
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