Cowboy oil question

[Flatbadger]

This may be a thread for the workshop section, but I might get less of a hard time here as this is a twatty question and a well-worn subject (ironically).

Yes it's oil, but along with my circumstances..

I went out earlier and no real drama, however when I got back I decided to get a torch and have a good look at the oil level. I ended up moving the bike to and fro, but could not see any level. I've had the bike 10 days and only done about 65 careful miles on a few rides, so forgive me for not looking up until now!

I have it booked in for a rear tyre change and a decent service on Tuesday as I don't think the bike has had any real attention other than the necessary, so I'd rather avoid doing any oil change if possible and leave that to the mechanic - I'll be doing that stuff eventually, but can't be arsed just now.

So how about just topping the thing up? I have have no idea what oil is in there, would a petrol 10w40 be alright to bung in on top of a diesel and vice versa? Not an ideal way to care for a bike, this is more a temporary measure just until Tuesday..

Any opinions anyone?

[Derivative]

What bike do you have?

Oil change on my CG125 was completely trivial. Leave the engine running for a bit so oil isn't too cold. Undo the drain bolt on the bottom of the engine (can't miss it), wait for the oil to fall into the bucket.

Screw it back on, fill, job done.

10W40 was the right oil for my bike, not sure if it's the same across every engine.

[Flatbadger]

Suzuki DR 125, 4 stroke engine. It's that messy bit I don't fancy, also I end up with a load of sump oil which I imagine is awkward to get down the dump on the bike! But if I must do that, does anyone have any tips?

I'd rather be lazy for now to be honest

[Gazza M]

pretty sure the oil sump capacity is 1l - if it is, buy a bottle of new stuff, drain the current into a pan, fill up with the whole 1l bottle of new stuff, then empty old oil into the litre bottle and take to to the dump.

simples.
____________________
Past: '07 YBR125, '00 GPZ500S, '99 ZRX1100, '98 CBR600 track bike, '97 ZX9R
Present: '05 R6 track bike, 140 pit bike

[Flatbadger]

Well if that draining lark is necessary, then it will have to be. I'll be off to Halfords (on my pushbike ) for the oil, and I'll get a funnel while I'm at it. Bah!

Thanks for your answers

[Nick_Giles]

[Flatbadger]

[janner_10]

Not to sound harsh, but you sound like a feeble old woman. Download a service manual and study it. Most basic servicing is easy with the right attitude.

MTFU and grab a spanner, let's do away with the cant be arsed and its too hard nonsens as it will cost you a small fortune.
____________________
Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1

[_Iain_]

Link in my sig covers an oil change and service on a YBR.

I'd imagine that it's 90% the same on your bike, besides the bit about valve clearances & the air filter.

Given i was quoted £140 for a service on the YBR, and paid £30 for the parts to do it myself....i'd say its worth having a crack at.

Also covered is disposal of the old oil in the easiest manner possible.
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[tomh]

Quick question:

How are checking the oil level? If you are using the side stand, the oil in the sump won't be level meaning using the dipstick will give you a empty reading. I've panicked before when I've checked the oil level like this and thought I was running the bike empty

You need to check the oil using the center stand if you have one on a flat surface.

Another thing when checking the oil is to check it once the engine has cooled down and the oil has returned to the oil sump. Although when you actually change the oil, you would do it while the engine is hot.

Sorry if you already know this but there very easy mistakes to make.

If you're going to top the oil up just use semi synthetic 10w40. It's what's most likely already in and it will certainly not have anything designed for a diesel engine in it. It will also make no difference if you mix 15w40 with 10w40 if you're going to get a full oil change done soon anyway.

[Flatbadger]

[Elffie01]

Well Im not a total feeble old woman but in about 40 years I might be there ! so I will say...Have a go

I changed the oil on both my 125's and being a complete newbie to bikes its pretty easy when you find you capacity. Do as Gazza said..

pretty sure the oil sump capacity is 1l - if it is, buy a bottle of new stuff, drain the current into a pan, fill up with the whole 1l bottle of new stuff, then empty old oil into the litre bottle and take to to the dump.

simples.

One tip : Don't leave the drained oil under the hole then proceed to drop the spanner into it....messy messy !

good luck, its easy. If i can do it anyone can.

[kernow24]

I'm confused as to why you've needed to use a torch and
trying to slosh it around to see the level, which would be
nigh on impossible anyway, 125's have very little oil in, so there
will be no sloshing, and will be impossible to judge the level
by looking in with a torch.

Surely you have a dipstick or glass level of some description,
I've never had a bike that didn't have one or the other.

When you removed the oil filler cap, its probably got a dipstick
built in, with min / max marks. Wipe it off, place it back without
screwing it on and then check the level, simples.

It 'should' be fine anyway, engines lose minute amounts of oil,
and if its used loads you would have known about it, and you
would have a lot more to worry about than getting a 'pro' to do an
oil change

Oil changes are simple, even for someone like yourself that's overly
cautious about it.

You've pretty much done it with trying to check the oil, its just one
other bolt and its done.

As someone has pointed out, servicing by a garage is expensive, 120
quid or more with what would cost you 20 to 40 quid in parts on a 125
and an hour of your time.

There's very little that can go wrong with servicing yourself (ooooer) and
it really is worth looking in to going forward. Don't require any special tools,
a socket set and some spanners will do the lot

[kernow24]

I'm confused as to why you've needed to use a torch and
trying to slosh it around to see the level, which would be
nigh on impossible anyway, 125's have very little oil in, so there
will be no sloshing, and will be impossible to judge the level
by looking in with a torch.

Surely you have a dipstick or glass level of some description,
I've never had a bike that didn't have one or the other.

When you removed the oil filler cap, its probably got a dipstick
built in, with min / max marks. Wipe it off, place it back without
screwing it on and then check the level, simples.

It 'should' be fine anyway, engines lose minute amounts of oil,
and if its used loads you would have known about it, and you
would have a lot more to worry about than getting a 'pro' to do an
oil change

Oil changes are simple, even for someone like yourself that's overly
cautious about it.

You've pretty much done it with trying to check the oil, its just one
other bolt and its done.

As someone has pointed out, servicing by a garage is expensive, 120
quid or more with what would cost you 20 to 40 quid in parts on a 125
and an hour of your time.

There's very little that can go wrong with servicing yourself (ooooer) and
it really is worth looking in to going forward. Don't require any special tools,
a socket set and some spanners will do the lot

[Flatbadger]

Thanks for those replies, I need to just explain I'm prepared to do an oil change if I have to! In fact I got back from work with a funnel and a bottle of carlube 15w40 with SL spec which is the only one they had (I ended up going to a high street hardware shop) - I've looked on this forum and the concensus is I might encounter a bit of clutch-slip but it won't do any damage. If it's a pain then its just until Tuesday.

Also I used a torch as this was late last night - this was to look at the window, not to look into the hole for the oil, but I did that too - no dipstick other than me I'm afraid.

And of course I take on board the advantages of self-servicing Ooer, but all in time - would you like to ride on a bike I had worked on? I wouldn't! Later in the year, perhaps.

[Flatbadger]

I just tried checking it again in daylight, and it's more towards the full than the empty - I can't account for what I didn't see there last night!

https://i43.tinypic.com/1z1tt2h.jpg

So its there but looks a bit dark - this'll do til Tuesday right? I'm planning on going about 25 miles tomorrow and again Sunday, then a couple of miles to the mechanic's.

I'll get that carlube back to the shop as well!

[weasley]

That's fine.
____________________
Yamaha XJ600 | Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat | KTM 990 SMT | BMW F900XR TE

[Taught2BCauti...]

Sorry if this is a bit late - but don't ever use oil intended for a car engine in a motorbike!

Motorcycle oil has additives to protect the clutch and gearbox - car oil doesn't.

Always change the filter at the same time you change the oil - and don't use additives like Wynnes or STP, and check the level with the bike upright - not cocked-over on the side-stand.
____________________
Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[Flatbadger]

Nothing has gone into the bike - I'll be returning the oil. Its just that opinion on this very forum would have it that any old oil will do, so long as you're mindful of additives - but everyone has an opinion of their own I guess!

See, classic example of newbie danger. I'll be asking the mech for a recommended oil and I'll stick to that type!

Thanks also weasley, emergency over!

[_Iain_]

Out of interest - how much is he charging you for this oil change & good service? And in reality, what could possibly go wrong with the bike that scares you so much doing it yourself?
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[Flatbadger]

It looks like a couple of hundred including a new rear tyre. The reason I'm doing it this way is above, it's in the bike's longer-term interests to have some initial attention by someone who knows already what they are doing.

Maybe I should go on a Christian forum and say I'm an atheist, I might get much the same response!

I'm planning on letting Jesus into my heart one day soon, and getting the jumper and tambourine to match. Of course I risk his return at any time, and being cast into the pit of brimstone but I just fancy a bit more hedonism first

I can understand your being as enthusiastic about working on your bikes as you are about saving money, but please let me come to that in my own time!

[Nick_Giles]

[janner_10]

[MG]

Any old oil that says 'motorcycle' on the front of around the right grade for your bike will be fine. I put 3.5l of halfrauds' own 10W40 in my 500.
____________________
'03 Honda Cityfly 125 > '02 Honda CB500S > '98 Honda CBR600F

[Flatbadger]

Last night I went about 7 miles and didn't go much over 30 as it's all built up. I locked the bike up and by the time I looked at the level it had been off a few minutes. It looked like the window was smudged by what looked like lard, and I couldn't see anything other than that. Maybe the torchlight was refracting in the glass..

Earlier I ran it in neutral for a few minutes, then turned it off for 2 or 3, I was following the little owner's manual - and got the level (above) with the bike upright. Broad daylight helps I suppose!

Well an oil change leads to an oil filter change, and what then? Swarfega! It's a slippery slope. Maybe I'll go to Halfords and have a look there, 10w40, petrol, bike.