Old bike, old mudguard... Paint job?

[roo12]

Hi everyone,

I was thinking of replacing my little Suzuki GP100 's mudguard (pics attached), as it's rusty and scratched in places. But the thing is, the only available ones I can find to replace it are shiny chrome, and wouldn't look nearly as nice as the ones already on the bike, in my opinion anyway.

So do you think its ok to paint over where the rust and scratches are? Or will it look uneven and bodged... Maybe I should just re-paint the whole mudguard? And anyone know a good way of doing this? Or a good paint to use?

Thanks!
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[U_W v2.0]

you'd have to take the whole thing down to shiny new clean metal.

apply a rust treatment coat, primer, colour coat, clear coat.

but frankly that thing looks pretty beat up, dents in the side, rust, cracks.

can you not get a replacement on ebay?
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[roo12]

[U_W v2.0]

if you do, get a mini palm sander with 240 grit to take the majority off.

then use a 500 or 700 to make sure all the paint and rust is off and the metal is clean and shiny.

then whack a 1200 grit over it to smoothen it off.

at this point the rust treatment is best applied then when dry a few layers of primer.

sand down with 1200 wet n dry to a smooth finish

apply colour coats and redo the 1200 wetndry

then clear coat.
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BCF's biggest cunt list: Cansa, Pits, Rob

[roo12]

[Johnser]

Whatever you do, if thats the original mudguard, dont throw it away.

by all means stick on a new chrome one but keep that one in the back of the shed as if you keep the bike for any length of time, chances are you'll come back to it.

As for the restoration suggestions, they are more describing finishing techniques in my opinion. It certainly looks like the metal has cracked in more than one place there.

Once you have de-rusted (knot wheel and/or sandblaster most effective) there will be splits, pits and possibly holes. If you have a welder, you will be able to let in repair sections where the metal has thinned around a hole or split. If you don't have a welder, you can achieve a "reasonable bodge" with fibreglass and filler. but the chances of paint splitting will be higher if you do - not to mention future owners cursing you.

I managed to "rebuild" an old BSA rear mudguard that had completely rotted around the seams once. the compound curve nature of a mudguard makes panel beating repair patches difficult but its not impossible. When you have a base that is solid - then you can go to town with filler, sanding a shiny paint if that's your thing.

First job - get it into bare metal and see the extent of the damage.

[roo12]

[Johnser]

[roo12]

Don't mind the huge pics - they're awesome, looks like you did a real proper repair there!

I understand what you mean about the difficulty with the curved surface now, tricky one.

May just have to get myself a welder...

I've started sanding it all down now, so will see what it looks like when its completely bare.
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[U_W v2.0]

watch the episode of american chopper where they do the liberty bike.

the poor dude with the rat tail on the chin beats the fuck out of a panel of metal making into the face of "lady liberty" (looked fuck all like her mind).

either way its a pretty good example of panel beating and the time and effort that goes into shaping metal. dont think anyone can honestly disagree with that.
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BCF's biggest cunt list: Cansa, Pits, Rob

[Johnser]