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Crashed GS500, no electrics. Why??

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Casper
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PostPosted: 01:59 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will have blown a fuse. Smashed indicators and the two wires touched cousing a short. You may also have pulled part of the loom if the bike took a slide.
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U_W v2.0
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PostPosted: 03:13 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

take a multimeter to the wires past the selenoid. if you have power feeding through then keep probing and see where the power stops.

you really do need to check your 20amp fuse from the starters selenoid though.

only other thing that hints towards a complete electrical failiure is the neutral switch. (read somewhere that the neutral switch can cause these symptoms)

oh and if the casing came off a key electrical part it could have shorted out while it was sliding so double check that main fuse.

dont know if you have one of these but heres a wiring diagram for a GS500e

https://www.gs500e.co.uk/wire.jpg
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya chap I can already see your problem. Inside that hole in the side is supposed to be a T shaped piece of circular metal, basically the crank turns it, and it chooses when to fire the spark plugs. That whole piece is missing!


I would check the fuse on the live from the battery. I take it you did this already?
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres my thread on it when I had the same Wink

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=181920
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's in the live feed about half a foot of cable away from where it bolts to the battery.
It's inside some weird electrical gismo. Pop the rubber cap of and you will see it.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

That said... if you are able to get it home...I'm at parents tomorrow and taking tcat to MOT.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Iain_ wrote:
And the only fuse i can find is on the starter solenoid, which again wouldnt have blown or even if it had wouldnt blackout the rest of the electrical. Only the starter.


Wonderful bit of deduction Watson, but what you neglected to consider was how THICK those wires going to the starter are...

Do you really think ANY blade fuse would be up to carrying that kind of load?

No, THAT will be your 'main-fuse' and its on the solenoid, because that is where the main-loom t-'s in to take its power from the battery.

CHECK IT

Presumption is the mother of all fuck-ups.

Also check you have acid in the battery!

Batteries are vented. Bike goes over, electrolyte falls out!

As for the fuse being gone, because of broken indies? Well, yes, again wonderful logical reasoning Watson.... BUT..... how do you know you didn't knock switch as you went over? And what about any other possible shorts? under impact easy for a bullet connector to pull loose and touch earth; or for a wire to pull out, or be 'cut' by something pressing on it, like a bracket.

Hundreds of reasons the fuse COULD go you have totally ignored.

I know you are in pain, BUT.... this is simple stuff, that gets solved by logical reasoning and eliminating variables, not voodoo and guess work.
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dransy
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Main fuse
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 09 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Iain_ wrote:
Quote:
Do you really think ANY blade fuse would be up to carrying that kind of load?


Depends, with a tiny little battery on it like that, and some of the stuff i've used those blade fuses on in cars?


OK, I'l;l put it in technical terms for you.... highest rated 'standard' size blade fuse is 30A. Now go look at the guage of 30A rated wire. Its about 3mm thick solid copper, possibly 4/5mm thick multi-strand AT MOST... how thick are the wires coming from that battery? 8mm? 10mm, 15mm? Eben an 8mm multi-strand will have 4x the current carrying capacity of a 4mm... double the diameter, you quadrouple the area hence the current capacity. So that thick wire will be carrying something from 90A up....

Your starter motor will NOT be 'fused'... not unless you have very big fuck-off glass fuse like something out of a Frankenstein movie!

Little battery? Means nothing. Super-Dream 125's have a 9Ah battery, means 9A for one hour, or 90A for about six minutes....

Oh! That's about right! Conveniently that's about how long it takes to completely flatten the battery cranking the engine when it wont start! So starter mist be drawing something around 90A!

NOT going to go through a 30A fuse, is it?.... well.... not for long, anyway!
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