*SIGH* 2 and a half months..

[ClydeGhost]

.. of joy and fun on my Bike. But now, it has failed it's MOT and I have to declare it SORN until my PayDay T-T I was wondering whether I could get some advice, maybe in terms of how long for it to be fixed (As it's £60 an hour) or maybe it isn't too hard of a task to do. The problems are

-Deformed Handlebars
-HeadLamp 'Insecure'
- Front Brake pad under 1.5mm thick
-HeadLamp aim too high
-Wheel Alignment incorrect
-Brake light stay on when brake is released (This is only due to my brake lever not touching the button that works the light)

Yeah, I don't know. I asked the guy where I got it MOT'd that they'd need to take off the fairings and what not to check the bike before they could quote me :/ I'm a student who's massively indebt, can't exactly afford much. If I could buy the parts myself would it be cheaper?

Thanks for any help!!!! xx
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Honda CBF125 : Suzuki GS500

[chris-red]

Only the brake pads will cost money, the rest can be sorted out with a few hours works.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Hopefully someone close by can help you out.

Bars probably need replacing if bent (although it that bent to fail an MOT I would expect it to be very noticeable). Should be easily available as pattern parts. Possible you could straighten them, but doubt you could get them close to the right shape.

Brake pads will cost £10~£20.

The rest just look like minor adjustments.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[ClydeGhost]

[Alpha-9]

Ohh clydey, is this the aftermath of your crash?

That bike was brand new wasn't it
As others have said, only needs the brake pads buying, you can do the rest yourself/get someone who knows what they're doing to do it

Amused you can fail an MOT for 'headlight insecure'
I dread to think what they'll make of my bike
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Fzr-600 1999

[Rogerborg]

Damsel in distress near Basingstoke (right?). Come on BCF Stalker Massive, get in.

Bet OP is a 20 stone trucker named Dave.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[U_W v2.0]

[J.M.]

Everything has been covered I think.

Which brake is it for 6?

Rear:
Near the lever you should see a cable running from it. On the cable there will be a part (probably quite hidden, near the lever) which can be twisted. Twisting this will adjust the brake. I remember having to do this to my CBR125 when the rear brake was sticking.

I don't know any of the names for that or remember it well enough to describe it, sorry. Hopefully it gives you some idea.

Front:
On my GS500F, when I replaced the front brake lever it didn't quite work fully. The front brake was a "push to close" type and when released the front brake lever was fractionally off clicking the switch.
I put a small piece of gaffer tape on the back of the lever, where the switch touches, to increase the physical size of the lever just enough to activate the switch. Works perfectly now.
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2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[ClydeGhost]