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Anyone used vinyl wrap on their bike? *Update. Tried it.*

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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:41 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Anyone used vinyl wrap on their bike? *Update. Tried it.* Reply with quote

How did it work out for you?

Worth the money?

A mate had his race bike tank wrapped with a sponsors logo (to hide crash damage) and it looked pretty damned good.

I'm particularly interested in fairing plastics though. Especially interested in how easy it is to DIY.
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Last edited by stinkwheel on 15:54 - 05 Aug 2012; edited 1 time in total
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 06:13 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Re: Anyone used vinyl wrap on their bike? Reply with quote

another option ive been thinking about is vinyl fake leather stuff to replace damaged fairings. Since Ive got a baglux tank cover, I think it would look good with it. Also be more resistant in a crash?
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Spudda
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had some Carbon Wrap done on my rad guard and front sprocket cover

I'm glad I had it done and although its not 'in ya face' its subtle but noticeable
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PostPosted: 09:03 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do recall this thread for advice on applying it.
Maybe a PM to ask how it turned out?

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Shaft
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PostPosted: 09:10 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Re: Anyone used vinyl wrap on their bike? Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

I'm particularly interested in fairing plastics though. Especially interested in how easy it is to DIY.


I wouldn't say it was difficult, more frustrating and time consuming, the levels of which will depend on the complexity of the curves.

First thing is to make sure whatever you're covering is scrupulously clean; the smallest piece of grit or dust will trap air around it and create a pimple, which you will never get rid of and will probably expand over time.

Even worse, if it's something sharp, you risk piercing the vinyl as you smooth it on, then it's game over.

Similar applies to any sudden ridges, for example, if you've got an edge where a piece has been repaired, sand it smooth.

Try to pick a day that is at least temperate, if not actually warm; trying to mould freezing cold vinyl to freezing cold plastic, will induce early onset dementia!

You will need some sort of applicator (a plastic filler spreader is ideal, just make sure it has no sharp edges) and either a hairdryer, or a carefully used hot air gun.

You will also need to apply it wet, so a spray bottle full of clean water is required, again, not freezing cold; I prefered to add a few drops of washing up liquid to mine, makes it slide easier, but it keeps sliding after you've finished, so you have to leave it to dry out for longer.

Finally, just take your time and don't be afraid to peel it back and go again; vinyl will stretch to accomodate almost any curve, but you will have to gently tease it round the tighter ones, a little stretch at a time. If you over stretch it, there's a chance you can skrink it back with heat, but more likely you'll be starting again with a new piece.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Me and a couple of mates did some vinyl stripes on a mates Golf race car. It took a long time and a lot of patience on a smooth relatively flat surface. We still had air bubbles in it.

I'd suggest searching out a torrent of Wheeler Dealers Series 3, because in episode 1 they vinyl wrap a VW transporter van. The results look awful, but that was because they chose a blue wrap with bubble images on it...
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Casper
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:


I'd suggest searching out a torrent of Wheeler Dealers Series 3, because in episode 1 they vinyl wrap a VW transporter van. The results look awful, but that was because they chose a blue wrap with bubble images on it...


Vinyl has came on a bit. Look for the epesode where they did a mini in carbon look. You get what you pay for in the vinyl, think it was 3M stuff they used. This has millions of holes in it that you cant see and any bubbles get squashed out easy.
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shereen
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

1888 wrote:
MarJay wrote:


I'd suggest searching out a torrent of Wheeler Dealers Series 3, because in episode 1 they vinyl wrap a VW transporter van. The results look awful, but that was because they chose a blue wrap with bubble images on it...


Vinyl has came on a bit. Look for the epesode where they did a mini in carbon look. You get what you pay for in the vinyl, think it was 3M stuff they used. This has millions of holes in it that you cant see and any bubbles get squashed out easy.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAL-3M-CARBON-FIBRE-LOOK-VINYL-SHEET-STICKER-100x120cm-/320460855323?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4a9cf4981b
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P.
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 19 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've wrapped various bits now. Used both hairdryer and 400 degree air gun Laughing Recommend a warm hairdryer for sure.

It probably takes around...half an hour+ to do a tank thanks to the curves. Fairings, I'd happily do my own, would probably be around 30 mins each for the large panels.

I've seen a guy wrap a vinyl car by himself in about 2 hours Laughing

Overall its not hard, but you need patience.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 22 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

1888 wrote:
MarJay wrote:


I'd suggest searching out a torrent of Wheeler Dealers Series 3, because in episode 1 they vinyl wrap a VW transporter van. The results look awful, but that was because they chose a blue wrap with bubble images on it...


Vinyl has came on a bit. Look for the epesode where they did a mini in carbon look. You get what you pay for in the vinyl, think it was 3M stuff they used. This has millions of holes in it that you cant see and any bubbles get squashed out easy.


That episode i mention is on now. Turbo channel 523.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 22 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
It probably takes around...half an hour+ to do a tank thanks to the curves.


Is that with or without setting your hair on fire? Wink
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 22 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just thinking out loud...

How would the vinyl cope with stone chips. Not an issue on the tank but I could imagine the lower fairings getting a battering and once the water gets underneath... Thinking
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 23 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
Just thinking out loud...

How would the vinyl cope with stone chips. Not an issue on the tank but I could imagine the lower fairings getting a battering and once the water gets underneath... Thinking


Protecting paintwork and light lenses what it was originally designed for. The first version was clear.

https://www.ozicozi.com.au/surfacetech/images/st_website/toughfilm2.jpg
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 23 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Doesn't the vinyl fade over time?

Confused I thought paint did that anyhow. Try matching a touch-up of the right colour to a 5+ year old bike.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 05 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well. I've had a crack at it.

Got a small-ish piece, enough to do the belly pan on the basis that it'll land up all covered in stone-chips and crap anyway.

This is a fast moving field. I've used stuff called controltac made by 3M which is pretty much the most up to date version of vehicle wrap.

Definately something that you need to practice first but I'm also pretty happy with the finish so I reckon I'll do the whole bike in it. If it lands up rubbish, you can just peel the whole lot off again. I suspect this stuff will help with the integrity of the plastics too. It'll stop any small cracks "running".

I didn't get it perfect this time but if I work from least conspicuous to most conspicuous plastic I should be good enough at it by the time I get to the tank to get it more or less flawless.

Couple of things I noticed. One is that ANY tiny little bits of dirt under the film stand out like a sore thumb so I'll be using a microfibre cloth next time and being extremely fastidious with the cleanliness of the surroundings.

Also this stuff stretches WAY more than I thought it would so the trick is to initially stick it along a plane from where it will need to be stretched to cover all the rest of the plastic. If you get a bit where it doesn't need to be stretched, you land up either with a ruck or having to cut the vinyl and make a seam.

A hairdrier is plenty hot enough and this stuff goes on dry.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/VFR/CIMG0730.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/VFR/CIMG0727.jpg

I've got a few rucks and bits of dirt in it this time but it's just the belly pan and I'll do it much neater next time.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/VFR/CIMG0728.jpg

Next question is colour. Matt black the whole thing like the belly pan or something else? The world is my oyster. They do a rather funky dark metallic red. I could even mix and match with the tailpiece and belly pan black and the tank and top fairings red. Time for a bit of time on GIMP I think. Thinking
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anthony_r6
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 05 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd like to see how well it holds off the stone chippings. Looks pretty good there, but seeing it on the bike would give a better representation.

How easy is it to take off and what kind of residual marks would be left on the fairing/tank?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 05 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

AnPhonEh wrote:
I'd like to see how well it holds off the stone chippings. Looks pretty good there, but seeing it on the bike would give a better representation.

How easy is it to take off and what kind of residual marks would be left on the fairing/tank?


Well, you'll need to wait a while before you can see it on the bike. Haven't got the plastics back from the repair shop yet.

It doesn't stick to the paint as such, it's just tacky. It'll peel right off leaving no residue in the same way cling-film would.

Stones will bounce right off it where they'd chip paint. It's very tough and slightly elastic.

I reckon it would be great stuff for doing fork-legs with. In fact. I'm going to do my fork legs with it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 05 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I reckon this would look pretty smart:
https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=85150
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Louise
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 05 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did it with mine a month ago - Its not that hard to put on, just the tight curves got a bit tricky
Wouldnt mind doing something with the tank at some point, to cover marks..
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Digitalize
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 05 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It resists chips well, seen hundreds of cars wrapped now, seen some cover thousands of motorway miles and still look really good up close on the front.

Lots of people are wrapping brand new vehicles as they are protected then can strip it before selling and have perfect paintwork underneath.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 05 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having had a further play with the stuff, I'll add to my list of tips that the job is 10x easier if the part is securely fixed down to something heavy.

I've been trying to wrap a mudguard with it sat on the table and it's a nightmare, you have to really stretch the stuff to get it round some of the corners. Trying to hold the mudguard, stretch the vinyl and apply the heat all at the same time is pretty much impossible.

Leave the part on the bike or attach it to a temporary jig clamped in a workbench and you can just work away with it. Some parts may be easier one way or the other. A mudguard is defiantely easier on the bench.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 12 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tank done. This was a bit of a swine. You get about 90% done then are left with a bundle of excess wrap in one corner because the tank comes back in again. Land up having to stretch it like crazy to get it smooth.

Any wrinkles are under the bit where the saddle goes though.

It really helps to do it on a smooth, plastic surface so you can stick the edges of the unused wrap to the tabletop to stop it all rucking up and sticking to itself.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/CIMG0760.jpg
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