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3D Printing for great justice. Now with a shoddy video!

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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 29 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those who are interested, here's a comparison between the Huxley (left) and Darwin (right) extruder head designs. The Darwin one's the spare from the one I built a few years back.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7122/7669755188_77c8a20524_z.jpg
Extruder head mounted.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8024/7669759094_3d8183575f_z.jpg
I may have mis-mounted the PCB on here, so I'm going to experiment with that a bit. Other than that, it's just a case of hooking everything up, but because I want my wiring to be tidy, I'm going to throw a few hours at heatshrinking, binding and securing the wires properly. Once that's done, I'm going to re-check the spacing, mounting and orientation of all the surfaces and rods that require it (i.e. pretty much all of them).

Wish me luck.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 29 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Electronics usually go on the front or down the side as you'll probably want to route the filament through the top. Thumbs Up
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 29 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Incidentally, since I keep banging on about the previous one I worked on, here's some proof: Forum announcement and video piece (which seems to be broken).

It was Toby who did the bulk of the design work, but I was there, slaving away over a hot lasercutter, finishing and assembling the bits that it proceeded to spit out. Aside from pulling a 28-hour-straight assembly stint (after which I slept for about 18 hours), I reeked of burning wood for days.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 29 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been working on wiring, and gotten some progress made. I've only hooked up the stepper motors so far - I've still got to do the hot end (heater, thermistor, fan), the endstops and the heated bed, but all of these things can wait 'til tomorrow.

I've developed some pretty interesting muscle memory since starting the wiring today; I can now crimp one of those tiny molex connectors without using the proper tool in short order, which although something of a niche skill, is still useful to me.

These are the little sods that I'm on about:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8425/7672046634_36c29ba950_z.jpg
Anyway: half way there...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8283/7672029250_cb2b5e675d_z.jpg
Nearly done...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8152/7672032328_c16ee4744f_z.jpg
...And all hooked in.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8011/7672041610_976d590173_z.jpg
Apologies for the blurriness.
I decided to sip tie a length of PLA filament to the X-Axis stepper wires, because since the X-Axis arm is going to be moving up and down, I didn't want it to get folded into the mechanism and causing anarchy. It now arches out of the way nicely.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8167/7672044554_5af9b1d51b_z.jpg
My desk and workspace may be a total mess, but I like to think that my wiring's fairly tidy Laughing

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7268/7672035324_aee184e0df_z.jpg
More tomorrow. Must sleep now.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for the lack of updates so far, I'm waiting on a couple of parts at the moment - I've nearly run out of those crimps, and two of the plugs that they fit into are damaged, so I've got replacements on their way to me. With luck they should be here today - my experience of RS's delivery times has been good in the past, so I'm hoping it should be up to scratch in this case, too.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you explain this to us morons that have no idea what a hot end is?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Could you explain this to us morons that have no idea what a hot end is?

It's the hot bit, where the plastic gets melted and extruded. The name's a bit of a giveaway, what with it being one end of the thing, and also being hot, like Laughing
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 11:30 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
chris-red wrote:
Could you explain this to us morons that have no idea what a hot end is?

It's the hot bit, where the plastic gets melted and extruded. The name's a bit of a giveaway, what with it being one end of the thing, and also being hot, like Laughing


I mean the whole thing, how does it work? how does it extrude? Isn't melting imprecise?
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Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
I mean the whole thing, how does it work? how does it extrude? Isn't melting imprecise?

OK - the hot end has got a couple of primary components: the heating element (a suitably chunky resistor, in this case), the heating regulator (a thermistor), a precise nozzle, and the extruder motor (which is a stepper, but I'll get back to that shortly).

The resistor and thermistor work in tandem to give a stable, regulated temperature, which is determined by the user - this means that you can accurately predict the relative viscosity of the plastic that's being fed to the nozzle. Since the nozzle is pretty small, you can also determine (based on that viscosity) how much material you need to feed through at a given rate to be able to control the precision with which the plastic is extruded. The stepper motor is the really good bit, though, because it means you can define the feed rate to a significant level of precision, thus (hopefully) limiting jams, misprints, and air pockets.

dumball - the whole thing's what's called a cartesian robot - this means that it can move through all three aces of motion: X, Y and Z. For those of you who don't remember doing any kind of cartesian graphs in maths at school, that means left/right, forwards/backwards and up/down. The stepper motors and the frame contain a bed, which is the part that moves around in the X and Y axes, while the extruder head is the bit that goes up an down. It's effectively the same idea as an inkjet printer, just with vertical movement, and it prints plastic instead of ink.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

So it isn't a cutter? it actually builds stuff up! cool!
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
So it isn't a cutter? it actually builds stuff up! cool!

The best bit is that it can be retrofitted to act as a cutter. If I can design a head that'll fit it, I can fit my dremel extension in the place of the hot end, and mill stuff. It'd also need different controller software on the PC side, but that's not a huge deal.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make me something, I don't know or care what.

If have a pattern saved can you just set the machine up to build it with no intervention? Can you use different types of plastic to give different strengths/flex etc.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stepper is technically part of the cold end. Shifty

Hot end consists of; barrel, melt chamber, nozzle, heating element, thermistor and thermal barrier.

The whole thing is basically a 3 axis CNC milling machine, but instead of having a cutter on it you have a fancy extruder that works the same way as icing a cake. Squeeze out layers of plastic on top of each other layers to build up what you want.

Fancy name is FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling).

Probably the worst way to 3D print, but the most accessible to the average person.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Make me something, I don't know or care what.

If have a pattern saved can you just set the machine up to build it with no intervention? Can you use different types of plastic to give different strengths/flex etc.

I'm considering doing printed BCF keyrings, at this rate Laughing
Yes, you can use different plastics, although the range of them is currently fairly limited, due to a variety of issues.

Aff is the one to talk to for a more informed/experienced opinion, since he's had one of these up and running for some time, but I will have mine operational soon.
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tbourner
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with the recent replies in that I've never seen one of these before. Looks cool though I can picture it 'working'.

Aff wrote:
About threads - An M10 is printable but not very strong, the main problem is that you will have a single layer on the tip of the thread with a very small contact layer with the layer below it. This means that the threads will break down under any sort of usable pressure.

However you can be very successful with internal threads if planned properly. If printed with the "grain" of the print (hole printed from base to surface), screws will self tap in-between the layers and create a fairly strong thread. If you print the hole against the "grain" (hole printed as a side profile), you can run a tap down the hole, if done at the correct speed you will melt a perfect thread into the hole and this can be very strong.


Couldn't you just have a hole in the piece then stick a threaded insert into it?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aff wrote:
The stepper is technically part of the cold end. Shifty

Hush, you Laughing
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Aff
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

tbourner wrote:

Couldn't you just have a hole in the piece then stick a threaded insert into it?


What would the benefit of that be? You can Helicoil to add additional strength, but for the applications RP parts are used for, you usually don't need that strength. A side profile printed hole produces a surprisingly strong thread. We printed a pneumatic squeegee housing and used side profile M5 threaded holes to hold the actuator brace. The squeegee was then operated at 50kg and the threads held.

When you get your print accuracy's right and you have your FDM design head on, OP will be pleasantly surprised at the build strengths he can create.

Nowhere are you going to be set up for PLA or ABS?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aff wrote:
Nowhere are you going to be set up for PLA or ABS?

PLA initially, and will then upgrade to ABS, once I've gotten a good feel for things.
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fairing kit plz Mr. Green
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 01 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given that the print bed is 14*14*10cm, that'd be an awful lot of pieces. Of course, building a slot-together fairing could look pretty awesome, if it was designed properly. I'm thinking cubist, so it'd look like an explosion in a glass factory, but that could work, depending on the bike.
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woodall57
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PostPosted: 09:22 - 02 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i first saw this thread i thought you meant hiding weed in your dash lol Laughing
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Kaneda
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 02 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

How goes knocking up the enclosure in CAD? I'm guessing building the geometry in such a way that the printer understands it is the hard part?
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