Honda Bros bamboozaling problems

[sgtcalle]

Hey guys.

just tried to start my honda bros after being parked up for a couple of hours, turned the key and it was electrically dead. bumped started it, and noticed it wasnt idling properly, revs were surging, not building up at all, although the lights did come on (dimly).

Took it down the road to try and see what was up with it, revs would catch, it would run properly for a couple of seconds and then bog down again. It ran almost perfectly in the higher gears, it seems to be the lower gears where its worse.

Now, it felt like a fuelling problem, but for the fact that my indicators were going haywire when i put them on, and the aforementioned lack of electrical power when the key was turned. I should mention that sometimes when i turn the bike off and take out the key, the ignition stays on!

I managed to get the bike home, in high gears at low revs, and when i pulled up all the lights were on properly, the indicators were working regularly, UNTIL i revved the engine, and they went nuts again. I then turned off the bike, and turned on the ignition again, and it seemed as if the battery was instantly drained again (lights were dim, wouldnt turn over)

I think it must be an electrical gremlin somewhere, can anyone help?
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CBR600F '02
Manchester

[MaybeGuy]

your regulator has fried your battery. Replace both.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[sgtcalle]

Is there a reason it has done that?
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CBR600F '02
Manchester

[MaybeGuy]

It's apparently a Honda thing. You can get aftermarket replacements with better vents that help keep it cool. Or mount it somewhere with better airflow, as I'd imagine it's under the tail fairing.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[sgtcalle]

sorry to bump this thread, but the problems are recurring.

Now, i have finally got round to replacing the regulator, and the bike ran fine for a couple of days, the battery was charging etc. Tried to start the bike this morning, battery was dead, and the same problem as before happened again. Do i just need to replace the battery, or is this something more serious? I should mention, the bike has a fault wherein i can turn off the ignition, remove the key, and the ignition will come back on (no i wont tell you my address ), could this problem be related?
Thanks in advance.
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CBR600F '02
Manchester

[mr jamez]

The regulator may well have taken the battery with it, and a duff battery is not good news for a regulator! Is the connector for the regulator burnt at all?

It is also a good idea to check the condition of the loom before fitting any new parts. A bad earth can kill a regulator. Also check the wiring from the regulator to the generator.

For example on my VFR750 the regulator died along with the batttery. The earth lead from the battery was hanging on by a thread and the earth for the regulator was seriously corroded.
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NSR 125F > BROS 400 > NC30 > BROS 400 > Trumpet S4 > '97 VFR 750

[sgtcalle]

i think the battery is ok, i put it on charge last night for a few hours, put it back in and the bike ran no problem. I checked the voltage across the battery when it was running and it wasn't charging, however when i fitted the new regulator the other night, it was. Starting to think it may be the generator, although i will have to check the loom.
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CBR600F '02
Manchester

[Vincent]

Have a good look at the wiring around the headstock and in the headlamp, esp the wiring coming from the ignition lock. Sounds like you may have a short. If it wasn't for the light staying on, I would have said reg/rec too.
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Space Is Deep

[P.]

[sgtcalle]

what am i looking for with the multimeter on the reg/rec? the reg rec has two connector blocks coming from it, one with 5 pins in and one with 3 pins
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CBR600F '02
Manchester

[cb1rocket]

your looking to check the voltage to the battery when running. Idle about 12.5v and test again at about 4-5k rpm and it should be about 14 volts

[Suntan Sid]

BUY A NEW BATTERY, FFS!

People are giving you good advice here, take heed!
Until you replace the battery, with a new one or known good one, you're pissing in the wind because you have not eliminated a potential problem.
You need to replace/refurbish each part of the system one by one and trace the problem step by step.
As you've replaced the Reg/Rec the next, obvious, component is the battery. At least swap it for a known good one and see what happens when you test it!
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"Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"

[raak]

all good advice.

could try here as well if you have any other problems with bike as ntv largely similar to bro (chain v shaft iirc)

https://ntvhonda.proboards.com/index.cgi
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Previous bikes: Suzuki GT250A / Yamaha DT125 / NTV Honda 650 // currently Suzuki RF900

[promufa]

Have a look at this flowchart: Click

It should help you out to find where the problem is.

Your battery may be charging to 13V or so but this may be artefactual. ie voltage goes up but there is no real charge in the battery. As soon as you put a load on the battery the voltage will drop to 11 or so. Essentially when a battery goes duff voltage maybe still >12V but the battery only stores a lot less than the specified 10Ah.

To test that: charge the battery and measure (1) voltage (should be over 12V)

put the battery in the bike and measure (2) voltage with ignition off (should be the same as above if not, short in the bike loom)

measure (3) voltage with ignition ON, engine not running (should be marginally lower than before)

turn on lights and measure (4) voltage (lower than before but no lower than 11V)

Start engine and stop it after a couple of seconds. The reason you do this is the starter will draw a fair bit power from the battery. You want to check how much 1 push of the starter drains you battery. Measure (5) voltage again with ignition OFF (It should be the same or very very close to measurement 2).

If 4 and 5 are off then your battery does not hold enough charge (fairly common if the battery had been ran with a faulty regulator)


The fact that you ignition stays on after you get the key out may be either an alarm issue (if you have one fitted), especially if the alarm has a keyless start option. Alternatively a short in the ignition barrel due to corrosion or random crap in there. May be worth getting a new one or (if you can) open it and clean contacts.

Hope that helps
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'02 Triumph Speed Four

[sgtcalle]

[P.]

[tahrey]

And deffo check whether you have either a short or more likely an open circuit somewhere, e.g. a bad earth. I totally killed a car ECU with the latter previously, and it's probably only because it stopped the engine from running that it didn't go on to fry other important electrical bits.