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new001
Nova Slayer



Joined: 05 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 11 Sep 2012    Post subject: Used 125 questions ? Reply with quote

Hi

I'm in the market for a secondhand 125 either a ybr or a cg for practice though I am a total newbie at this and what to look for.


At what point does the mileage on a bike look suspect with respect to age ? is 5k miles a little too low on 5 yr old bike ?


How much would you pay tops for a ybr 125 or cg125 in good nick at least 3 yrs old <10k miles roughly ?


Whats the maximum distance you would travel to view and possible purchase a bike ?is 50 miles to far ?


How much should i try and haggle for ?


Im using gumtree,ebay and biketrader any suggestions of any others for secondhand bikes?


Any further tips and things i should watch at for when viewing and when to walk away ?


Thanks
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 15:50 - 11 Sep 2012    Post subject: Re: Used 125 questions ? Reply with quote

new001 wrote:
At what point does the mileage on a bike look suspect with respect to age ? is 5k miles a little too low on 5 yr old bike ?


Average miles on a bike is 3-6K a year. Learner legals can get little use, due to newbies only wobbling around the houses until they get thier test, or they can crank up big miles in daily commuter use, with lay-ups, like over winter increasing the variance...

And TBH I would not be much bothered by mileage. Some super-low miles bikes have been advertised recently, and I commented that such suggests long lay-ups that can promote 'lay-up' failures, rather than suggesting good unused condition. Conversely high miles doesn't necessarily mean clapped out.

Well looked after machine can give many years of trouble free service; one thats neglected or abused be trouble from the start.

Condition is everything, particularly on Learner-Legals, where ideas and standards of 'maintenence' are so variable... you have to factor in the ignorance factor!

One bloke can kill a bike never checking the oil... Another can kill it with kindness, stripping sump plug and head servicing it every 100 miles and running it with the chain pulled tighter than a virgins knicker elastic.


new001 wrote:
How much would you pay tops for a ybr 125 or cg125 in good nick at least 3 yrs old <10k miles roughly ?


CG's? Newest I think are about 2005, 2006, so you'll be looking at least 7 years old plus for one. They are also over-priced in the market-place and some folk are asking silly money for them; ranging from £500 for Spares or Repairs shit-heaps, up to £1500+ for either good condition youngsters or notionally 'renovated' old-sters.

Comment on the Cult of the CG on my webby... Personally, I'd avoid the model, simply because it is so 'strange' and anomolouse. Bike was in production for thirty years, with about five different design generations and variouse compatability and incompatability between variants, and THEN you have all the Chinky copies, and old heaps fixed up with bits pillaged from clapped out Lexmotos and the like.

TOPS I would pay about £900 for a really 'good' CG..... but market values them higher than I do, and there are still a few folk that will offer them for 'sensible' money, if you hunt them out.

YBR? They were bargain about a year, year and a half ago... but folk seem to be cottoning on...

In production from 2004ish.... so you are looking at bikes under 8-9 years old; you could pick up a tidy-ish 5 year-old a year or so back for under a grand if you hunted hard enough.... but prices have been strangthening, and that £1250 +/- £150 four year old I used to vaunt, is now probably more like £1500 +/- £250....

Looking at some of the ads folk have posted of late, and sub 3 year old bikes commanding around £18-19oo in dealer show-rooms, and selling for those kind of prices, has suggested the 'sense' of buying brand-new, at the 'discounted' list price of £2.3K and getting some kit chucked into the bargain, along with the warranty and aero miles niceness, for the few extra quid.

Older examples? Obviousely in demand... You can still get bikes for around a grand, if you hunt, but you are limiting choice. £1500 is more realistic for a YBR now, I think, but give or take £100 either way, what you get for that money, depends how lucky you are I guess! Market has been severely compressed and everything, regardless of age or condition is hovering in very narrow price band.

new001 wrote:
Whats the maximum distance you would travel to view and possible purchase a bike ?is 50 miles to far ?


Personally? I live pretty much slap bang in the middle of the country... 90% of its area and about 95% of its population are all within 90 miles of where I live....... so 90 miles 'as the crow-flies'

Bought two bikes, in last couple of years at extreme of that range; one down in Kent, one down in Wiltshire, which were £120ish mile car journeys..... and both were for 'fixer-uppers'.... but for me... it was a day out, and as a fixer upper..... wasn't so bothered buying blind so didn't have to double journey.

Ultimately, its what YOU think reasonable. But, bikes make up less than 5% of all UK vehicle registrations, so in any given area, you are only going to find 1/20th the bikes on offer as you might cars..... and restricting search to less than a half of them, that are Learner-Legal, AND less than half of THEM 'Geared' motorbikes, rather than T&G scooters.... odds are against you finding a good choice 'close'...

So further you look, better your chances.... remember, double your search distance, and you quadrouple the search area.....

new001 wrote:
How much should i try and haggle for ?


As much as you can! They can only say 'no'! But volatilke market, dont expect much, unless you can completely dissolusion the seller! Usual haggle points are noting faults, but on a learner legal, ignorance works both ways, and sellers will shrug it off and bottom line say "Well, if you dont want it, plenty of others that do"

And depends on bike and price; as said, price and expectation variance on a CG is huge, giving you a lot more haggle room.... same bike might sell for £400, £800 or £1200 depending on what the sellers expectation is..... giving a lot more scope for haggling. YBR, as said, all stacked into a narrow price range around £1500, giving a lot less.

new001 wrote:
Im using gumtree,ebay and biketrader any suggestions of any others for secondhand bikes?


See advice on Webby where to look... theres more places than on your computer screen! Tour the bike schools, ask if they have an 'ad-board' or know of any-one selling a 125; tell freinds, collegues and people, use the grape-vine to winkle out bikes before they are advertised or that just aren't. Look in shp windows and on super-market post-card boards; check the free-papers, and local classifieds.

More places you look, more chances you have of finding a decent bike for a sensible price.

new001 wrote:
Any further tips and things i should watch at for when viewing and when to walk away ?


Again, more advice on webby; but trust your gut, and vet the seller as much as the bike.... genuine people sell genuine bikes, dodgy people sell dodgy bikes.... can you trust the seller?

Vet the PAPER-WORK, and make damn sure that the numbers stamped in the head-stock match whats on the tin plate on the frame, and that they match whats on the log-book!

Dont be blinded by shiney paintwork or piles or reciepts...... look at the detail.

MOT Mans check-list is variousely published on the net; thats cood basis for checking a bike over. A lot of it is basic stuff, do the lights work, does the horn, do the indicators flash, does the suspension move? Do the brakes work, does the engine run, does it sound like a bag of spanners, or billow clouds of grey smoke.

Much more than 'obviouse' will always be hard to spot, even for a more experienced biker.... but being a bit clued up, and keeping your eagerness in check and applying a bit of common sense, will take you a long way.

But, folk rarely sell bikes becouse they are 'perfect'... expect some niggly faults to show themselves as you start using the bike and budget for 'de-niggling' fixes.
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'


Last edited by Teflon-Mike on 13:25 - 21 Sep 2012; edited 1 time in total
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new001
Nova Slayer



Joined: 05 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Tef !


Regarding Hpi checks whats the cheapest mobile texting service to use ?


Is it worth doing a pricey(20 quid a time) full hpi check on a 4 yr secondhand bike which is worth a grand which includes a finance check ?

Thanks
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Flatbadger
World Chat Champion



Joined: 07 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do a check, especially if on a classified ad.

Most need a 125 at some point so get one in good nick/recent and look after it, it might even get you a profit once you move up. Consider money to pay out on worn out parts with older machines as well!
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Trev1740
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 01 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

new001 wrote:
Thanks Tef !


Regarding Hpi checks whats the cheapest mobile texting service to use ?


Is it worth doing a pricey(20 quid a time) full hpi check on a 4 yr secondhand bike which is worth a grand which includes a finance check ?

Thanks


Hi mate,

When I was buying my bikes I used the RAC Vehicle Checker. (Does Bikes as well as cars) They do the checks for £15.50 for 1 or £25 for 3 checks. I appreciate that they are probably not the cheapest around but when you are looking at possibly being approx £1000 out of pocket I think I would rather stick with a 'reputable' company.

Have a look at: https://www.rac.co.uk/buying-a-car/rac-car-data-check/
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new001
Nova Slayer



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PostPosted: 15:07 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it better to do a hpi check before going to a viewing and placing a deposit or at a viewing after the bike checks out? The reason i say this is that i don't have mobile internet.
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kotachi
Traffic Copper



Joined: 26 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do it last thing before you buy. If you check it over yourself and somethings obviously wrong and you walk, you've saved money on having HPI'd first... And if everything seems kosher from your checks, you have peace of mind of not getting caught out Smile
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symonh2000
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Joined: 20 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can do HPI checks online for £4-£5

I normally do one before I go to view a vehicle, as that way if comes up as dodgy it would save a wasted trip.

I once "Won" a car on ebay, went to pick it up and before handing over the money did the check. The car came back as a Cat C write-off, and it caused me loads of hassle. The seller got agressive when I said I no longer wanted the car and I ended up with ebay on my case for non payment.
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new001
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PostPosted: 06:26 - 16 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi small update managed to get hold of a ybr125 09 reg with 6 months mot, FSH,5k miles,3 owners for 1100 quid privately is this a good price ? and how much should i be able to resell next year ?
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Flatbadger
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 07:51 - 16 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the face of it, you have a good deal there.

Mine was a similar age when I bought it & the back tyre needed changing so you might not be stopping at £1100! I'd be confident in selling for the sme or more if its looked after.
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mark111
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 27 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 16 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

No advice here sorry but i just love reading Teflon Mike's posts , They are always fantastically thought out and worded Smile
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