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18000 miles in a year on a Chinese 125

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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then just book your tests, you don't need training to pass them.

I'm not saying getting (good) training is a bad idea, but the relationship to getting a license is fairly tenuous.


mattsprattuk wrote:
Also bare in mind that these speedos over read by about 20%

Yours did. The speedo on my Lifan is bang on accurate all the way up - it's the only speedo on any vehicle that I've every owned that's been spot on.

Neither experience predicts anything about the speedo on Sam's Zongshen.
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SamWise72
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Journey currently takes 2.5 hours. Will take around 1.5 on the motorway.

My speedo overreads drastically; when it's reading 69, it's actually doing (according to GPS) about 60. It takes a big downhill for it to read more than 69!

Roger - the reason I'm doing the training is twofold; confidence (and I'm sure I have a thing or two to learn) to take the test sooner rather than later, and the desire to have a full license so I can get out of the rain a bit on a BMW tourer fairly soon (yes, that might spell the end of my 125 adventure. We'll see). What was putting me off before was taking the time off work, but my spill on Monday changed my priorities a bit (also my boss became very keen for me to get my license, and might be persuaded to let me have the days of as unpaid leave, rather than using my holiday).
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Bomberman
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:

£120 for a pair of tyres; how long they going to last? 10K miles? And what they going to do for you? How many 'offs' MIGHT they save in that time?

Same money, could (round here) buy you a complete rider training course to test standard; 12 two hours lessons, once a week.....

Have I misread this? An instructor for five pounds an hour? Confused Really? Confused
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ricklincs45
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Good luck! Reply with quote

Best of luck with this Sam, never had a Chinese bike but have been tempted by Lifan 125's on a couple of occasions. Am going to bookmark your thread as I think it makes interesting reading.

Couple of suggestions you might find helpful:

chromework; if you're able, coat the inside/underside of any chromework with Waxoyl - it's an excellent rust preventer. Once the weather turns bad, I'd give everything a coat of WD40/ACF50 on a regular basis. No experience of ACF, but can tell you if it's similar to WD, it's not as good as Waxoyl at preventing corrosion (will work ok if you keep re-applying though).

Forks; might not improve the looks, but I always found fitting a pair of rubber gaiters to the stanchions protected them from stone-chips and corrosion. Worth considering for the sake of a few quid.

If your engine is over-head cam rather than pushrod, the kindest thing you can do is change the oil regularly, use decent quality bike oil (not car oil) and not abuse the engine from cold. TBH, it sounds like you've got your head screwed on properly - I think with some tlc you might prove some of the doubters wrong. Will certainly be interesting.

All the best,

Rick @ 80bikes.com
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Re: Good luck! Reply with quote

ricklincs45 wrote:
chromework; if you're able, coat the inside/underside of any chromework with Waxoyl - it's an excellent rust preventer. Once the weather turns bad, I'd give everything a coat of WD40/ACF50 on a regular basis. No experience of ACF, but can tell you if it's similar to WD, it's not as good as Waxoyl at preventing corrosion (will work ok if you keep re-applying though).


It's not like WD40. WD40 is designed to displace water, ACF50 is designed to stick to a metal surface and form a kind of protective film to stop water ever getting in. I plan on getting some when the weather gets properly crap.
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GREENI3
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to keep everything all shiny and new, you will have to keep on top of it.

Grease the visible parts of the wheel spindles regularly, as these are prone to surface corrosion.

Any bits of chrome will need to be applied with acf-50.
I did this all the time with the chrome exhaust on my lexmoto street and corrosion still appeared at the welds.

The paint on the frame and swing arm is thin as fcuk.
All I did was try to wipe some dirt of my swing arm and it took a load of paint off with it. Mad

The threads are basically made of chocolate.

The spring for the rear brake pedal fouled the exhaust, so after a while, the spring wore the chrome off the exhaust.

Pretty much every bolt will develop pitting after a few rides in the wet.

Ah, the joys of owning a chinese bike. Rolling Eyes
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SamWise72
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it's had a few rides in the wet, and only a few bolts are showing signs of corrosion. I ACF50ed everything but the brakes and tyres last weekend; it has a milky sheen to it as a result Smile I suspect I overdid it a bit.
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SamWise72
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

(honestly, I'm not that bothered about shiny and new. It's transport, it's not there to show off. I want it to be reliable and not falling to pieces, and reasonably presentable, but a bit of exhaust corrosion around the welds is not going to worry me much. From what I've seen, a lot of people go to great lengths to keep their bikes very beautiful, but this is an alternative to a £500 Peugeot 106 diesel; that's what 125s and 250s are about as far as I'm concened. It's not an aspect of my self image, it's how I get to work.)
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 12 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bomberman wrote:
Teflon-Mike wrote:
Same money, could (round here) buy you a complete rider training course to test standard; 12 two hours lessons, once a week.....

Have I misread this? An instructor for five pounds an hour? Confused Really? Confused


Hinkley Rider Training Scheme; 'Accompanied Test Course' (advertised as seven weeks of two hour sessions), on your own bike, £125. With CBT £175. And its train till you pass. (Hence around 12 weeks if it takes a little longer. After that they may 'discuss' options)

If you do it on a school (125 or DAS) bike, then price is more, to cover hire cost, and they are a bit more rigid about the seven lessons, but mainly because of the bike hire, but its still fairly 'cheap' - (125 Course with CBT and bike hire is £360, DAS Course with CBT & bike £485)

Yes it does sound too cheap t be true, but its because its a BMF 'Volunteer' based scheme, the instructors doing it in their own time essentially for free; they can use a Leicester Shire council community centre for class-room work and the play-ground for off-road training, as a non-profit "Comunity Activity" like Scouts or Brass Band..... actually Brass Band night is same as Bike Night, so lots of off-key parping going on.

Philosophy behind the scheme is to encourage people to get trained and tested, not wobble about forever on L's... not necesserily JUST get a licence ASAP.

Its not unique; back in the 1970's volunteer training was almost the only training around for bikes, and was encouraged to get the 'Part 1' test off the ground in the early 80's.... subseqently under Thatcher the drive for commercialisation has seen many become full time proffesional schools, with paid instructors, BUT there are stil a few low cost volunteer schools out there offering similar training, often 125 focused and often out of usual work hours for similarly low cost, IF you go hunting them.

Think that the BMF have a list of the ones they endorse, always worth an e-mail to them to see!
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Bomberman
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 13 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair enough - bargain! Shocked
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Thunderlips
Derestricted Danger



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PostPosted: 12:00 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a kymco zing and a pioneer nevada for about a year each, never had 1 issue with either.

Had the usual tighten bolts after a ride, go crazy with the acf50 etc stuff, but on the nevada i replaced a lot of the bolts with decent ones and towards the end was hardly having to tighten any Thumbs Up .

I picked up the nevada for £500 as cheap transport and i always had people coming over and saying how nice it was Shocked .
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SamWise72
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 12:45 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

First commute after my accident today. Nice and dry, no real issues, except that the choke is still not returning properly. It's close enough to run ok, but bogging at full throttle. I can manually return it, but I think the choke cable is kinked. Bloody cold this morning, anyway.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 16 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Sam,

Surely owning a Chinese bike embodies the purity of motorcycling, the "will it, wont it start", "will it, wont it make the bend", "if I brake hard now will it vear left or right" Will I pass my test before the bike rusts away completely. etc etc Smile

I bought a Chinese bike, a new (at the time) 2011 Jianshe JS125-6A. Sold as an AJS JS125-E2 in the UK.
I live in a flat with no garage. The bike has been parked outside all year, it's been used every day (except 2 weeks when the snow was too deep).
Admittedly, my round trip of 11 miles is a little less than you, but I've clocked up 9,000km in 15 months and I absolutely luv it. Yes it's slow, but it's low height and minimal weight make for fun on b-roads where 50mph is as fast as anyone should go.
Often after work I'll ride past my flat and just head off for an hour, never happier than on two wheels, arrive home with a huge sense of calm. NEVER did I just go for a drive when I used to own cars, never felt attached / connected to any of them.

Good / bad points of JS125

+ Reliable, starts every time.
+ Average over 15 months of 113MPG.
+ No parking charges.
+ No getting stuck in traffic.
+ £16 tax.
+ £200 insurance.
+ £20 for a service.
+ Arriving to work in a good mood.

- Slow (10bhp)
- Single pot front disc isn't great.
- Chain and clutch cable have stretched more than I remember on my CG125 or GP100......then again, I probably never used to check.
- Clutch plates started sticking after 13 months, every morning before starting the bike its best to engage 1st with engine off and rotate rear wheel to free the plates before setting off.
- Spare parts. How do you get them! Possibly through the dealer network I guess
- Bolts can corrode easily

I clean the bike every 3-4 weeks (water+wd40+polish+FS365+acf50 during winter). The paint is still a deep colour and the chrome exhaust super shiny. Bolts I missed (such as exhaust and wheel) have rusted.

As someone else said though, most 125's are now made in China. The Yamaha YBR125 is made on the same production line as the AJS. The quality of the Jap bikes is no longer so far apart when your talking about the budget end of the marked. But you do get other benefits with Jap bikes such as spares, holding value, faster, more efficient, strong brand etc

As for tyres, they are ok. I used to ride very carefully in the rain. Then I rode in snow and ice (until it got too bad), you soon re-assess grip levels. Rain doesn't bother me like it did (appreciate lower grip, increased stopping distance etc of course). Manhole covers can be a real issue in the rain, just like ice.

beechbone
I see you have a Jianshe JS125-6B, have you had to get spares (cables, gaskets etc) for that at all?
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jetski
Scooby Slapper



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PostPosted: 08:30 - 17 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you looked on eBay for spares? there are shit loads of spares second hand and new for my Chinese bike (kaisar xtr125)
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 17 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

senoir.dude wrote:
beechbone
I see you have a Jianshe JS125-6B, have you had to get spares (cables, gaskets etc) for that at all?

90% of the 6B is the same as a YBR125. To the point where I have bought a YBR top end gasket set and airbox amongst other things and had no problem with them fitting. The front brake on mine is off a CG125 by the looks of things.

If it isn't the same as a YBR there is always a company that claims to have lots of parts for the 6B in Portsmouth (near me) here. Or AJS are just up the road in Andover.

Have you got a photo of your bike? I can probably tell if it's essentially the same from a few photos.

So far it's been pretty faultless and reliable. The build quality seems to be a bit higher than Sukida and other lower end Chinese bikes. Jianshe seems to be owned by Yamaha in fact, which is interesting.
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Fixing: Honda VFR750 RC36 '94 and MZ ETZ 251 '90
Gone: ZZR600 '00, TRX850 '97, RXS100 '93, JS125-6B '07, BMW R1100RS '93, Kawasaki ZX-6R-J2 '01,Honda Bros NT400 NC25 '88
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 02:12 - 31 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi beechbone
Apologies for the delay, thought I would get an email notification if the thread was marked as watched.....but no.

The bike is 99% the same as this one (check the pics and vid)

I suspect the above is slightly updated version. And MUCH cheaper. I paid £1,500 from an AJS dealer. £850 from the above, truly amazing. The most obvious difference is the exhaust, on my '11 model its 100% chrome and this newer bike is matt black mostly (like the CBF). On this newer one, the fasteners and bolts look gold coloured. Again, looks to be just cosmetic. Still using the F28 engine that's a Lifan IF154

My clutch plates are definitely on the way out. Every morning its getting harder and harder to force them apart before starting (so as to avoid high revving getaways / stalls).
But I luv the bike and just want to get it back to how it was.

You say parts are shared with YBR. But from which year? Should I just try pattern parts for a '11 YBR and see if it matches the '11 YBR?

According to the maintenance manual for the JS125-6b (cant find one for the 6a, but both appear to use Jianshe F28 engine). The clutch has 4 friction linings and 3 plates....but its a Chinese to English translation.
Possibly this could be a shout. I waste £23 and £9 of oil. Or fix the problem Smile

Your spot on on Jianshe and Yamaha, circa 2006 Yamaha bought a controlling stake, so the full name is the Jianshe Yamaha motorcycle corporation....or something similar.

I've tried ringing AJS at Andover a few times, but it just rings and rings, no answerphone and no answer.

It's been such a good little bike, just a shame simple things like pads, cables and plates are (currently for me) difficult to get hold of with confidence.
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 31 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

senoir.dude wrote:
Hi beechbone
Apologies for the delay, thought I would get an email notification if the thread was marked as watched.....but no.

The bike is 99% the same as this one (check the pics and vid)

I suspect the above is slightly updated version. And MUCH cheaper. I paid £1,500 from an AJS dealer. £850 from the above, truly amazing. The most obvious difference is the exhaust, on my '11 model its 100% chrome and this newer bike is matt black mostly (like the CBF). On this newer one, the fasteners and bolts look gold coloured. Again, looks to be just cosmetic. Still using the F28 engine that's a Lifan IF154

My clutch plates are definitely on the way out. Every morning its getting harder and harder to force them apart before starting (so as to avoid high revving getaways / stalls).
But I luv the bike and just want to get it back to how it was.

You say parts are shared with YBR. But from which year? Should I just try pattern parts for a '11 YBR and see if it matches the '11 YBR?

According to the maintenance manual for the JS125-6b (cant find one for the 6a, but both appear to use Jianshe F28 engine). The clutch has 4 friction linings and 3 plates....but its a Chinese to English translation.
Possibly this could be a shout. I waste £23 and £9 of oil. Or fix the problem Smile

Your spot on on Jianshe and Yamaha, circa 2006 Yamaha bought a controlling stake, so the full name is the Jianshe Yamaha motorcycle corporation....or something similar.

I've tried ringing AJS at Andover a few times, but it just rings and rings, no answerphone and no answer.

It's been such a good little bike, just a shame simple things like pads, cables and plates are (currently for me) difficult to get hold of with confidence.

It is a bit of a pain. I would risk it and get that set. The parts you need will be for the 05-06 YBR125 ED which was the carburettor model, but the clutch and engine haven't changed as far as I can tell. You will also need a clutch cover gasket https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-YBR-125-ED-RE031-2005-Replica-Clutch-Cover-Gasket-/130777431402?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1e72f13d6a

However all these are guesses so you could end up wasting £30 + oil. I'm going to call 'learner legal' in portsmouth today as they haven't replied to me email I sent yesterday morning. I need to get a set of wheel and steering head bearings and a clutch wouldn't go amiss either.

The Yamaha/EBC/other quality pattern parts are likely to be better quality than what learner legal are selling but at least I'll know they fit. I've also got a local Yamaha dealer who might be able to match up the parts if I take them off first.
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Fixing: Honda VFR750 RC36 '94 and MZ ETZ 251 '90
Gone: ZZR600 '00, TRX850 '97, RXS100 '93, JS125-6B '07, BMW R1100RS '93, Kawasaki ZX-6R-J2 '01,Honda Bros NT400 NC25 '88
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Killer Rat
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 31 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

SamWise72 wrote:
New boots and panties!

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a322/Samuelw72/20121012_093820.jpg

Conti-go tyres, which just from touch feel grippier than the Shingko ones. Had a new screen fitted too, plus the service done, and it turned out that my clutch lever was flapping around due to a sheared bolt from the crash. They couldn't drill out the bolt end, but the nice thing about a Chinese bike; the replacement was only £22. So, all shipshape and Bristol fashion again, uncomfortable bill, but such is life. (oh, no argument about the warranty replacement of the speedo drive)

In other news, definitely taking the time off to do an intensive course; having driven up the motorway (I drive my tiny Daihatsu HiJet at about the same speeds my 125 will do), I am now certain that I'll save 2 hours a day commuting time, plus have much better lighting and generally a more pleasant ride to do in the rain and cold when I can ride the bike on the motorway. At that time of day, 60 mph is plenty fast enough without holding ANYONE up, so I want my license ASAP!


You might want to check the direction of your tyre tread mate if you're still concerned about grip in the wet and wish to live.
My conti's face forward.
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No! No more talk! We go in! We kill! Kill! We kill 'em! They kill us, we kill them! Kill 'em! Kill 'em! Kill! Kill!
_______________________________________________________
cbf125 09', cbt passed 4/6/2010 - 28k miles - 1 major breakdown (stator)
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 31 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Killer Rat wrote:
SamWise72 wrote:
New boots and panties!

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a322/Samuelw72/20121012_093820.jpg

Conti-go tyres, which just from touch feel grippier than the Shingko ones. Had a new screen fitted too, plus the service done, and it turned out that my clutch lever was flapping around due to a sheared bolt from the crash. They couldn't drill out the bolt end, but the nice thing about a Chinese bike; the replacement was only £22. So, all shipshape and Bristol fashion again, uncomfortable bill, but such is life. (oh, no argument about the warranty replacement of the speedo drive)

In other news, definitely taking the time off to do an intensive course; having driven up the motorway (I drive my tiny Daihatsu HiJet at about the same speeds my 125 will do), I am now certain that I'll save 2 hours a day commuting time, plus have much better lighting and generally a more pleasant ride to do in the rain and cold when I can ride the bike on the motorway. At that time of day, 60 mph is plenty fast enough without holding ANYONE up, so I want my license ASAP!


You might want to check the direction of your tyre tread mate if you're still concerned about grip in the wet and wish to live.
My conti's face forward.


Nice spot...that does look backwards!
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Riding: Does an Audi estate count?
Fixing: Honda VFR750 RC36 '94 and MZ ETZ 251 '90
Gone: ZZR600 '00, TRX850 '97, RXS100 '93, JS125-6B '07, BMW R1100RS '93, Kawasaki ZX-6R-J2 '01,Honda Bros NT400 NC25 '88
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P.
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 31 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is.. the front is backwards in comparison to the rear.

Its fine.
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Killer Rat
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 31 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
It is.. the front is backwards in comparison to the rear.

Its fine.


Just 'googled' about this and you are 100% correct.

I find it strange that treads work opposite on a bike as opposed to tyres on a car.
When i used to cycle (too fat/lazy now) i once put a front tyre on the wrong way round. The amount of resistance it put up for me to pedal against instantly told me something was wrong. I thought this would have been the same for a motorbike.

My apologies Sam.

Actual quote from a dunlop guy:

Because bikes are not 2-wheel-drive vehicles, the forces acting upon a front tyre are not accelerative and cornering but braking and cornering. Braking forces affect a rear tyre a little but they are overwhelmed by the accelerative forces. The vast majority of the bike's braking is done by the front tyre and braking forces are in the opposite direction to accelerative forces so in order the align the tread grooves with these forces from upright to leaned over they need to be in the opposite direction to rear tyre tread grooves.
____________________
No! No more talk! We go in! We kill! Kill! We kill 'em! They kill us, we kill them! Kill 'em! Kill 'em! Kill! Kill!
_______________________________________________________
cbf125 09', cbt passed 4/6/2010 - 28k miles - 1 major breakdown (stator)
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Imperial_Maniac
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 11:33 - 18 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd feel a lot safer on my 125 CBF than a Chinese make that could break down at any given moment...
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 18 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Imperial_Maniac wrote:
I'd feel a lot safer on my 125 CBF than a Chinese make that could break down at any given moment...

Because Indian manufacturing processes are so far in advance of Chinese ones.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 27 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tish, apart from the common corrosion issues, fuel pump failures, and fatal engine seizures, the HMSI Stunner - sorry, the "Honda CBF125" - is a fine example of a bike that was designed with great care and attention to detail. Specifically, the detail of being made to a budget that allows it to be sold to people who earn a bowl of rice a day.
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 27 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder is Samwise72 is still alive...
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Gone: ZZR600 '00, TRX850 '97, RXS100 '93, JS125-6B '07, BMW R1100RS '93, Kawasaki ZX-6R-J2 '01,Honda Bros NT400 NC25 '88
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