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jackw72 |
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jackw72 World Chat Champion
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jackw72 |
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jackw72 World Chat Champion
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G The Voice of Reason
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jackw72 |
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jackw72 World Chat Champion
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Posted: 16:39 - 20 Nov 2012 Post subject: |
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It does look fairly simple and you can buy kits from English companies a la English instructions (hopefully) with not too much of a price difference to deter me from it.
Mmm will have to ask on a more bike specific forum, can't be the first won't be the last either I imagine.
I was obviously looking at the highest wattage kit within reasonable price range this is a 1200 watt kit. £300 + batt is gonna be £200. 10p per charge apparently seems perfect for work commuting and trolling sportives.
https://www.eclipsebikes.com/chainwheel-1200-watt-ebike-p-1023.html
The 350w kits are only 60 cheaper so I would rather pay for that. Will be interesting to put onto a road bike but I am thinking to put it on an old MTB as a lil more room for error. ____________________ 08/11/2007 A2 Passed.
Suzuki GSXR 1000 K3
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G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :
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Posted: 19:00 - 20 Nov 2012 Post subject: |
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I would prefer a chain wheel kit for 'performance' as you can put the power through gears - so stick it in a low gear for wheelies .
But, it's a bit more obtrusive and makes more noise than a hub motor kit - people have just presumed it's a big brake or something.
Also, I quite like that mine's Front wheel drive - so I have 'AWD' with the pedalling, which does occasionally help - though I did have a low side once on some web stone pavement (landed on feet, so all was ok).
Having the weight at the front 'balances out' the batteries at the back, but isn't really on the whole 'mass centralisation' principal.
May well be people already using the same thing with reports on the endless sphere forums - pretty sure they're by far the biggest electric vehcile forums. |
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jackw72 |
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jackw72 World Chat Champion
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Posted: 12:38 - 21 Nov 2012 Post subject: |
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Yeah I'm not too fussed about which it is, I don't intend on doing wheelies, especially if it's on the road bike.
I think there are a few more issues with FWD though especially if you were climbing a hill off road? Could see it spinning and getting nowhere
I am worried about this time of year with slippery bastard leaves and drains how dangerous it will be (especially on the 700c wheels) I suppose I will have to treat it like taking a Blade out in the snow or similar
I would assume the best place for the battery would be right in the middle maybe as far down to the ground as possible so the weight is centralised and nice and low for stability a la motorcycle again.
I took a look on both the forums and there isn't a whole lot in terms of custom kits (which isn't a surprise as it seems they are all about branded manufacturers). Gash.
G I assume you have ridden a road bike, do you think putting it on the road bike is sensible or do you think best on the MTB?
Jack ____________________ 08/11/2007 A2 Passed.
Suzuki GSXR 1000 K3
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G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :
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Posted: 13:19 - 21 Nov 2012 Post subject: |
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If you were purely using the FWD for climbing off-road it's more likely to slip, I'm sure - but may actually be better if you're pedalling too.
However, for off road stuff I'd go for the power to the rear first, then consider extra power to the front. And in this case we're talking about a good bit more power than a human can produce.
Handling wise, stick the battery in the middle - but if you're just using it for 'getting around', I wouldn't worry too much.
From what I've looked on endless sphere there's been a hell of a lot about kits - and in many cases people making the whole lot from scratch with salvaged bits, or in some cases entirely from scratched, winding their own motors etc.
Haven't looked in a while, but definitely worth using the search function on there if you haven't.
By road bike, just to confirm you mean the Giant FCR2 (which google shows me to have flat bars?)
Either way, as you're adding weight etc, I think I'd stick to the mountain bike unless you really absolutely want all out speed.
It'll take the extra weight better, as well the bigger tyres. You've got a good bit of power, so you won't be worrying so much about the extra speed the road bike offers and any suspension etc will be useful at these sustained higher speeds. |
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jackw72 |
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jackw72 World Chat Champion
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Posted: 13:57 - 21 Nov 2012 Post subject: |
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Ah I will have to check the endless sphere forum a bit more thoroughly. Oooooo, I'd like to have a go at my own kit, doesn't look like you need anything particularly specialised.
Si I mean the FCR2, which despite the flat bars is road orientated I believe. Thinking that if I do stick it on the MTB then I've got the option of both on road and off road which is gut.
Would like to see the speed difference between road bike and mtb, would imagine it to be somewhere between 5-10 mph.
Thanks for your words sir ____________________ 08/11/2007 A2 Passed.
Suzuki GSXR 1000 K3
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G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :
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Posted: 14:37 - 21 Nov 2012 Post subject: |
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I doubt the speed difference is too significant on an electric bike.
When you're talking a human output that's unlikely to be much more than 100-200w, the skinnier tyres etc will make a good bit of difference. More so when you consider any 'bob' a bike with any suspension may have.
When you're talking a sustained 10x that power, your major issue will probably become wind resistance. Thus asking about flat bars - if you have drop or aero bars on the road bike, it'd make more of a difference I suspect.
I can certainly ride noticeably faster on my hybrid road bike than mountain bike (ignoring that I've got aero bars on the hybrid bike) - but I doubt the same limitations would be in place if I was making a good bit more power.
My hybrid is reasonably touch it would seem, but I'd still prefer to be hitting potholes at 1000w speeds with something a bit beefier behind me. Sure, I still hit bumps etc on the downhills at over 40mph, but the average speed for each journey tends to be slower (though around here it's often half the distance at >35mph, the other half at <8mph thanks to said hills.)
Were it me, I'd stick to a kit like you were looking at, or buy the components for one, to start with - then look to 'learn' as you go along and consider making stuff up as needed.
Gives you a good idea of which bits you do/don't like, for a start. And a good base that should work from the off, rather than being left with a load of components with no idea which one is causing problems.
A kit running through gears is going to be more complex than a hub kit - a well designed hub kit should be VERY easy, but not sure you really get well designed cheap Chinese stuff . |
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thegubner |
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thegubner World Chat Champion
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Tarmacsurfer |
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Tarmacsurfer World Chat Champion
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G The Voice of Reason
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D O G |
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D O G World Chat Champion
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thegubner |
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thegubner World Chat Champion
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Posted: 14:44 - 26 Nov 2012 Post subject: |
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Interesting, I know someone who has a hub mounted kit that's just been given to him for cock all. He's never going to bother fitting it so I might start sweetening up.
TS, yeah they've gone down now. |
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jackw72 |
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jackw72 World Chat Champion
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Posted: 16:45 - 26 Nov 2012 Post subject: |
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I think max range for the one I was looking at is 30 miles. Which is pretty much good enough for a couple of commutes.
The LifePo4 batteries are awesome in the sense they hold their charge very well over time. I think they say it will be 80-90% full capacity within a couple of years.
Charges can be anywhere from minutes to several hours. Perfect for getting home from work and just plugging in overnight for me.
You lucky bastard. ____________________ 08/11/2007 A2 Passed.
Suzuki GSXR 1000 K3
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 145 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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