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ZX7R track/road bike project

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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: ZX7R track/road bike project Reply with quote

A few months ago I picked up a ZX7R, no MOT, but roughly road ready - leaking fork seals and needed new tyres but nothing obvious wrong. I had to take it apart to get it home though:
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/87E6D99D.jpg
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/E977C51D.jpg
I put it back together but didn't bother putting it on the road as I had plans.
A few weeks later I picked up another one in a worse state. Non running with no bodywork, though the engine turns over. Anyway they then got left in the garage/garden for ages. Now I've finally cleared out my 'workshop'/conservatory I'm going to start my project.

Aim is to have one road bike and one track bike, so all the cosmetically nicer bits go on the roadbike and all the more trick bits go on the trackbike.

First difficulty was getting the fuckers in the house. Scrappy went in with no major problems - I removed her brakes as they where seized on, the nicer one was a little more troublesome-
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/51DB2751.jpg
stupid chubby ninja is too heavy to get over the step.

I decided to charge the battery, that bike does run, but even if it wouldn't I could still stick it in first, bridge the clutch switch and bump it over with the starter motor. After charging a spare battery I stuck it on and went to turn her on - for some reason the ignition barrel decided to stop working, so ten minutes struggling with that, greasing oiling etc I gave up and decided to just bridge the starter solenoid... a half hearted fart from the starter motor and nothing. Turns out my spare battery is fucked. There was nothing for it but to man up so I pumped up both tyres, had some weetabix and managed it after about 10 minutes nearly shitting myself.
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/69DFDAC7.jpg
The dog is not happy with these new family members.

Now I had a bit more room I could put the steering lock on, which made the ignition work. Then I popped a working battery on the nicer one and got her running. Horrible clicky noise from the RHS of the engine though, I'm assuming these run auto CCTs, might look into a manual one. Didn't bother putting a battery on the other one, I'll drop the oil first and see if there's anything nasty in the sump.

So now the plan is to identify what parts I have available, and what bike they will work best on and get a list of what needs to be bought.

front to back I have
1 set of wheels with new bearings and fucked tyres
1 set of wheels with decent BT-014s
1 set of EBC pro-lite disks
1 set of cast iron disks
1 set of standard disks
2 sets of tokiko 6 pots
1 set of leaking forks, and the seals for them
1 set of non leaking forks
1 steering damper
1 nice standard tank
1 primed tank
1 standard, fairly scrappy fairings inc headlights vents etc
1 scorpion full system
1 arrow hi-level full system (which fouls the indicator)
1 working engine with a noisy CCT
2 engines in unknown condition
2 sets of carbs unknown condition
1 technoflex shock
2 standard shocks
2 sets of standard pegs
1 set of spacer plates
1 set of aftermarket adjustable rearsets
1 standard tail with pillion seat
1 fibreglass tail unit
2 half decent C&S fitted, with various sizes of rear sprocket.

So the main expense is going to be a fibreglass front fairing, then all the general service bits and bobs unless there's something majorly wrong with both non running blocks. Next stage was to start on a full service. I figured if I start by stripping down to check the valve clearances and grease the shock linkages thats pretty much the whole thing stripped down so I'll start there.

https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/F600177B.jpg
scrappy is actually much cleaner under the tank than the other one

https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/B3F7F31A.jpg
precision engineering employed to remove top yoke nut ( I did just turn the spanner, but it started lifting the bike on the stand

https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/F77098F6.jpg
bike archeology - so why at some point has this guy had to buy new carbs from a breakers

https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/80F8DE03.jpg
as they stand now. I've dislodged the carbs from the manifolds, but I can't remove them as they have heaters, so I'll have to drain the coolant before I can carry on.

Anyway thats where I got to before lunch, now I have to grab something to eat and do a bit of shopping. Should have another update this evening.

Oh and I'll quickly pimp my homemade workbench - £15 of discount timber and about £20 of threaded bar and coach screws and some free pallets
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/219861D4.jpg
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moppy
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice, big fan of these bikes, will be watching with interest.
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Bike Bunker
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

massively impressed you got it in a micro..... view my thread on my zx7r project currently rebuilding 2 7r engines ready to fit to the bike
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Bike Bunker
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

if your interested i have a racing muzzy engine available a big end bearing went so i am in the process of replacing it and will fit a full £180 oem gasket set and will be selling it for £500
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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bike Bunker wrote:
if your interested i have a racing muzzy engine available a big end bearing went so i am in the process of replacing it and will fit a full £180 oem gasket set and will be selling it for £500


I think I have enough engines for now ta. Will be watching your project though, give me a shout if you decide to get rid, I'm looking cheap wheels, levers clip ons engine covers etc (basically anything that breaks on a track)

Spent the afternoon getting the valve clearances measured. Tried to take a few more pictures this time, as I realised when I was writing up what I did last time there where bits I meant to have pictures for. TBH this stage of the project is fairly boring. I'll make sure to take more pictures when shiny bits start turning up and stuff starts fitting together.

Anyway both bikes did a nice blue wee, no rust or kidney stones
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/8ADBED0C.jpg
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/A5EB8EB0.jpg

So then I could get the carbs off
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/C14C9F1C.jpg
Normally I dont name bikes, but since there's two of the same it kind of makes sense, the far one is scrappy ninja as she was originally in a bit of a state and the near one is chubby ninja, as her brake callipers are still fitted and binding, so she feels heavier

There's a whole lot of stuff on top of the engine, I'm assuming it equalises the pressures in various parts at various times. I took a couple pictures so I know how it goes back together
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/BC79843E.jpg
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/2AD9F897.jpg

Then I gave the head covers a quick clean, to stop and dirt falling in the head, and took them off
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/22A2FA13.jpg
stupidly tight clearance to the frame.

I did the bikes one at a time, and as scrappy was too close to the workbench I couldn't easily turn her over (crank access is on RHS) so I had to reshuffle, was about to get started, then I realised, the tools I needed where...
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/BB7D128A.jpg
right over there, had to do some bike parcour

Anyway checked scrappy, refitted head cover and checked chubby
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/A763AE54.jpg
handwriting of a psychopath

Quick question, any idea wtf this is?
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/B34943B4.jpg
I initially assumed some bodgy home DIY connecter block, but it looks weirdly focussed, like it has some very specific purpose

Finally, then I cleared the unneeded bits to the garage, where the dog had been sat in a strop for a good hour or so
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/45EF8398.jpg

erk, garage is getting very full
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/73497C80.jpg
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wilz1234
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Niice Very Happy It's a familiar sight

I believe the bit on top is a valve that opens to let air from the intake into the exhaust port to get rid of unburnt fuel. It's all in the haynes book of lies
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Bike Bunker
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

wont be getting rid of the bike if i cannot get the money i want for it at the end though the maxton shock brembo m/c and carbon tarty bits will be going but if you watching the thread you'll know that Smile
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 17 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give us a shout if you need a hand with anything on this mate Thumbs Up

Pretty clued up on them now Laughing

The ignition switch issue will be a badly soldered wire inside the ignition barrel. Youll have to take it off and re solder it on. I had to do this on mine, been fine since. They also tend to burn out the big connector block for the ignition under the tank, so take a look there.

As for the vent gubbins under the tank...

You can remove the valve sitting ontop of the rocker cover and just bridge to 2 pipes together. The other valve regulates pressure into the float bowls on the carbs. I would HIGHLY advise you keep that, as its a nightmare without.

Are they cast iron discs?! ( PFM?)
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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 18 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

evoboy wrote:
Give us a shout if you need a hand with anything on this mate Thumbs Up

Pretty clued up on them now Laughing

The ignition switch issue will be a badly soldered wire inside the ignition barrel. Youll have to take it off and re solder it on. I had to do this on mine, been fine since. They also tend to burn out the big connector block for the ignition under the tank, so take a look there.

As for the vent gubbins under the tank...

You can remove the valve sitting ontop of the rocker cover and just bridge to 2 pipes together. The other valve regulates pressure into the float bowls on the carbs. I would HIGHLY advise you keep that, as its a nightmare without.

Are they cast iron discs?! ( PFM?)


Cheers Alex. With your issue with having to resolder the ignition barrel connectors, did this physically stop the key from turning? That was my issue, just wouldn't move till it felt like it was about to snap in the lock. I plan on keeping the assorted air recirc stuff, I might later chase more power an less weight but for now I'll just get it running well and put some miles on them, the mystery thing I was actually asking about in the picture was the weird connector block.

I believe they are cast iron disks, though I haven't seen a brand name on them. May look into the nissin 4 pot conversion if I need to renew the 6 pot seals.

It looks like 7 of my clearances are out of spec, annoyingly it's 6 on 1 engine and only 1 on the other so next job is cams out to measure shims. Will decide tonight if this is going to be possible with the engine fitted or if it will make sense in the long run to drop them.
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 18 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try pushing the key forward or back in the barrel when turning the key.

Some ignition barrels wear funny from people having too many keys on the keyring.

The block connector is the one im talking about. Altho im not sure why it has a random spade connector on it!
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bacon
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 18 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tristan. wrote:

I believe they are cast iron disks, though I haven't seen a brand name on them. May look into the nissin 4 pot conversion if I need to renew the 6 pot seals.


If the bike has been used in wet weather the seals will most likely be fucked, the dust seal seats corrode and push the seals into the pistons, which then get dragged out by the pistons.
Mine were a right mess, I cleaned them up, rebuilt them, then ran them without dust seals in summer while hunting for a set of 4 pot nissins.
Managed to bag a set of nissins with brand new ferodo pads for £42 on ebay, took them apart, cleaned them up, inspected all the seals, pistons were perfect, seals were fine, still running them Thumbs Up

Tristan. wrote:

It looks like 7 of my clearances are out of spec, annoyingly it's 6 on 1 engine and only 1 on the other so next job is cams out to measure shims. Will decide tonight if this is going to be possible with the engine fitted or if it will make sense in the long run to drop them.


I have changed shims in my 7r with the engine in the frame mate, all I do is mark the cam shaft sprockets and cam chain with a dab of tip-ex, as seeing the alignment lines is impossible with the frame in the way.
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Bike Bunker
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 18 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

what are you doing for gasket sets as there not many aftermarket ones available and non of them are under £160 from what ive found ?
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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 19 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bike Bunker wrote:
what are you doing for gasket sets as there not many aftermarket ones available and non of them are under £160 from what ive found ?


Hopefully I wont need any.

Alex, I sorted the key, when I had room to put the steering lock on that freed it up, now you point it out it's obvious what that block is, a fancy scotchlock type thing, presumably it was wired into some accessory so it would be live with the ignition on.

Bacon, ta for the tip. I had considered marking them. I think I'll take a few days to decide, I have other things to do in the meantime. I think I probably will end up dropping it though, just for the extra confidence.

So the last couple of days I've started looking at the brakes. Utter bastards every step of the way
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/33851446.jpg
Only 1/8 of these retaining screws rounded, which I was quite happy with.
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/ACAAFF8F.jpg
Filthy horrible calliper. The pins where an absolute prick to get out - I would advise leaving them on the bike, clamping a set of mole grips on the pins as tight as physically possible then just working the pins round for a few minutes before you bother trying to slide them out.

Next I decided to work the pistons out hydraulically as much as possible - using an air line is fiddly, and if one piston blows the seal it means the rest are much less likely to come out.

https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/00ACA839.jpg
Unfortunately one set of brakes blew a seal almost instantly. So these will have to be attempted with compressed air.

https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/BCCA516C.jpg
The other set started off more promising but...
https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/BEB8C097.jpg
When I came to top up the reservoir the screw wont wind out. So either the previous owner overtightened it and fucked the plastic thread, or it was fused together with corrosion.

Not a productive evening. Everything is broke.
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kat250
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 19 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best thing you can do with those calipers is stick a set of 4 pots on. Seriously the 6 pots are rubbish.
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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 19 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

kat250 wrote:
Best thing you can do with those calipers is stick a set of 4 pots on. Seriously the 6 pots are rubbish.


plus the seal set is £60. I'll probably end up getting two sets of 4 pots, but in the meantime I'll still get these stripped down. I doubt I'll have 24 good pistons anyway so I'm defiantly looking for at least one set of 4 pots

doing two projects at once involves weird numbers, 32 valve clearances, 8 spark plugs erk
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Turkish
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 19 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tristan. wrote:
Quick question, any idea wtf this is?

https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/tristanthe/Snapbucket/B34943B4.jpg

https://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/hSbE0.gif
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bacon
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tristan. wrote:
kat250 wrote:
Best thing you can do with those calipers is stick a set of 4 pots on. Seriously the 6 pots are rubbish.


plus the seal set is £60. I'll probably end up getting two sets of 4 pots, but in the meantime I'll still get these stripped down. I doubt I'll have 24 good pistons anyway so I'm defiantly looking for at least one set of 4 pots

doing two projects at once involves weird numbers, 32 valve clearances, 8 spark plugs erk


yeh your dust seals have done exactly what most of mine had done, if you have any bits of random rubber laying about, get some grips and put the rubber on the jaws, and see if you can pull the pistons out by hand. Shouldnt mark the pistons
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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 18:11 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

bacon wrote:

yeh your dust seals have done exactly what most of mine had done, if you have any bits of random rubber laying about, get some grips and put the rubber on the jaws, and see if you can pull the pistons out by hand. Shouldnt mark the pistons


Half the pistons are still fully recessed in the caliper bodies. not a problem, I'll try to get them out pnumatically at first, then split them and use my slide hammer for the rest. I've already got one set of bandit 4 pots in my sights, and tbh I'll probably get 2 sets.
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bacon
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tristan. wrote:
bacon wrote:

yeh your dust seals have done exactly what most of mine had done, if you have any bits of random rubber laying about, get some grips and put the rubber on the jaws, and see if you can pull the pistons out by hand. Shouldnt mark the pistons


Half the pistons are still fully recessed in the caliper bodies. not a problem, I'll try to get them out pnumatically at first, then split them and use my slide hammer for the rest. I've already got one set of bandit 4 pots in my sights, and tbh I'll probably get 2 sets.


its worth the investment mate, they don't go for much, finding them is the harder part.
Search for all the different bikes that had them, slingshots, bandit 12's etc, mine were badly worded on ebay, meant barely anybody bidded on them.
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suzukirider19...
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

good work mate doing a very simlar project myself but a zx6r F3
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moppy
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really enjoying this thread, keep the updates coming Thumbs Up
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bacon
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol found the thread I made with the condition of my tokicos, I wish back then I had an ultrasonic cleaner, they would have prob come up cleaner than a toothbrush and brake cleaner managed!

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=194978&highlight=tokico+caliper
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Red Devil
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 20 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work mate, looking forward to how these turn out Thumbs Up
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