Have I Put My Wheel Back On Correctly?

[Srengam]

Hi all,

I got a puncture last week when a farmer was kind enough to leave a 2 inch U-nail in the lane destroying my back tyre.

I removed the wheel and had the tyre replaced.

I put the wheel back on, but didn't do anything to "ensure" it's alligned correctly. (Allignment was something I realised could be an issue when I was setting the chain slack).

When I first put the wheel back on, I pushed it right up to the front to put the chain on, but when I connected to brake caliper mount and the brake, everything just seemed to find it's own position, about a centimetre back from the full front position. So I tightened the tension brackets so they were both flush with the wheel being in the position it had found for itself. Then I set the chain slack doing equal half turns on either side of the wheel until the chain was correct. Then I tightened up the wheel.

I've not been out on it yet, so can't comment on any issues.

Have I missed anything or should this be OK? It certainly looks OK, and once the wheel had found it's own position, any lateral pressure did twist the allignment a bit, but it returned to it's "own" position once pressure was removed.

The brakes used to rub on the disc a bit beforehand when I pushed the wheel around, they still rub a bit now but it's actually better than it was before, so all seems good.

Any confirmations on a succesful job would be great, but a "Stop you'll crash on your first corner" would also be invaluable if this is the case.

Thanks all.
____________________
Suzuki GSX600F Katana (1997)

[nickerbelly]

sounds like you've done it pretty much right, the only thing I might add is to just check the reference marks on the chain tensioners to make sure they are on the same mark both left and right which will indicate the wheel alignment is about right, you'll know if the wheel's slightly out of alignment when you ride it as it will "crab" , ie you'll be going in a straight line but the bike will seem to be pointing slightly off to one side of the direction of travel and the handlebars will not be straight! - hope that was useful mate
____________________
there is a fine line between madness and genius - I have a foot on each side!!

[J.M.]

Sounds good

The wheel adjustment marks are never really that accurate anyway apparently.

You'll find out whether you did a good job or not when you go for a ride. It won't cause you to crash or anything but if the alignment is out you will find one direction of corner much easier and one much more unstable (well, that was my experience!)

I noticed mine was seriously out when attempting to pull a wheelie and as the front came became light the bike's direction changed
____________________
2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[Kickstart]

Hi

Normally just make sure the wheel is fully forward against the adjusters. As long as you haven't moved the adjusters you should be fine.

One thing to double check is that you have put the spacer in between the wheel and the sprocket carrier. One thing people forget, and which likely won't show any signs of being missing for a few hundred miles.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Srengam]

I only had one spacer when I removed the wheel, on the other side of the wheel to the sprocket?

Is this correct?

It all fitted together snug, no space for anything else other than a washer if it was forced in somehow.
____________________
Suzuki GSX600F Katana (1997)

[JustinParker]

I use this free method to check wheel alignment.

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/string_align_motorcycle_wheels/

[Kickstart]

Hi

Should be 3 spacers I think. One on the brake disk side (part 5), one on the sprocket side (part 10) and one between the wheel and the sprocket carrier (part 9).

See this for where the bits go.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Vincent]

The caliper retaining arm, (or torque arm), should be free to move with any adjustment of the rear wheel position. It's not unusual for some numpty at some time to have used the wrong bolt and thus preventing the brake arm from being free to move. Might be worth a look.
____________________
Space Is Deep