When should you replace your chain?

[i.p.phrealy]

Just asking as I think mine has seen better days and I'm going to order an new one on pay day.

When do you swap it? when you can't adjust the slack out of it anymore? when it's dropping off the sprocket? when you feel like it?
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it is impossible to lick your own elbow...
and if you just tried you need professional help.
Finally allowed a big bike 19/03/14!

[Nope.]

When the sprockets are worn down or when the chain has stretched too much.

You need to replace both the chain and sprockets at the same time, just incase you didn't know.
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Former: Derbi GP1 50, Sachs XTC 125, Suzuki GSXR 400 GK73A, Kawasaki ZX7R, Suzuki DR250, Yamaha RD350
Current: 2011 Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré, 2003 Yamaha YZR-R1 5PW (In Build), 2009 Kawasaki ZZR1400

[Pete.]

[Shinigami]

i'm going for a better chain next time, current one has only lasted a year though it's prob had some abuse, the sprockets still look nearly new
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Current: Honda City Fly CLR125 2003 Honda CB600F Hornet 2008 Yamaha FZ6 S2 + 1991 Kawasaki GPZ500
"Once you realize what a joke everything is, being the Comedian is the only thing that makes sense.

[i.p.phrealy]

Pete, I didn't think there'd be a scientific way of doing it, I thought most people would think "That looks a bit shit" and do it.

based on your measurements i was right to get a new one though!
when it gets here I figured the best way to replace it is to split the old chain at the splitlink, attach the new chain to the old chain and pass that through, to save removing the front sprocket cover.

although I'll have the spanners ready to get that cover off as knowing my luck that won't work!
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it is impossible to lick your own elbow...
and if you just tried you need professional help.
Finally allowed a big bike 19/03/14!

[U_W v2.0]

You would be better off removing the chain entirely and the sprocket cover.

This will allow you to check both sprockets for wear, if the teeth look uneven or worn they will need to be replaced. Ideally its easiest to just change the sprockets with the chain.

I've done it myself and its not hard to do. I found ordering the right sprockets the hardest part, but the guys over at gingerparts.co.uk were fantastic help. Turned out i had ordered the right sprockets but wrong chain, the right chain as £2 more expensive and they sent it out without charging the extra. Parcel then got lost and they sent out a heavy duty chain and fully synth oil + sprockets free instead of the standard semi synth and standard chain.
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BCF's biggest cunt list: Cansa, Pits, Rob

[P.]

I typically change mine when either its hit the adjuster marks or it starts looking a bit down.

Turns out that is roughly 10k

[Kradmelder]

[Noxious89123]

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

On it's centerstand I check for tight spots..find it and adjust tension, then give the chain a tug at the rear of the sprocket. If I pull it back more than half a tooth I know it's near to changing.
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The Harry Turner Project

[neil.]

If you can do this, it's time for a new chain.

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/stretch_121.jpg
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CBT February 2008 | A2 June 2008 | Yamaha YBR125 (written off) | Honda CBF125 (current)

[Pete.]

[YBR Ric]

Before all this new fangled measuring calculus and a working knowledge of Fermat's Last Theorum came along;
the old saying used to be that if you could pull the chain away from the sprocket far enough to fit a pencil between it and the sprocket, it was time to replace the lot.

[Astandane]

Having a good habit of checking your chain often will help you determine whether it needs a change or not. Today for example, upon cleaning mine I found that one of the links actually had a crack in it. Straight down to garage, who replaced the link (or something) for £1.30.

Now had I not noticed...

Besides, if you are servicing your ride at some point, the guys will most likely keep you up to date on these sort of things.