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Cleaned brakes + dot 4 fluid change = Brakes not working xt1

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WherEmEweeD
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 16 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Cleaned brakes + dot 4 fluid change = Brakes not working xt1 Reply with quote

Hi

I just removed my brake and cleaned it up took pads out etc and drained the old dot 4.

Now i have pumped new dot 4 and there is no brake action just a limp brake lever with no resistance and brakes which don't work

This is the front brakes i have not got to the back brake.
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have undone the bleed nipple, put a tube on the end, put into a pot of old brake fluid and pumped till all the air came out, tightened the bleed nipple and pumped the brakes?
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doggone
World Chat Champion



Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air in it somewhere, it might work out left overnight but most likely needs more bleeding.
They can be right sods and need doing from the bleed screw upwards with a hypodermic and bit of pipe shoved on.
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WherEmEweeD
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Joined: 16 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Cleaned brakes + dot 4 fluid change = Brakes not working xt1 Reply with quote

Gonna leave overnight to fill brake drums with fluid then tomorrow will do more bleeding from the nips.

I have a mate helping me. Was wondering is it neccessary to use a hose from nip to container with fluid as i can't find a hose the right size for the job will probably have to purchase one.
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steady eddie
Nova Slayer



Joined: 03 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 04 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, you need a good fitting hose (battery breather hose often fits nice) over the bleed nipples then just do what he says below

whitedevil wrote:
You don't need any fancy kit to bleed brakes. just a length a clear tubing, a jar and a spanner to open the bleed nipple.

pump lever, hold it on, open nipple, close nipple,release lever. repeat until clean brake fluid comes out with no bubbles in it.
make sure to keep the reservoirtopped up with clean fluid or you'll get air in the system.


The end of the tube needs to be lower than the nipple but you don't need to keep it submerged in fluid.
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Noxious89123
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Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 00:40 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

steady eddie wrote:
The end of the tube needs to be lower than the nipple but you don't need to keep it submerged in fluid.

Does help to stop it drawing any air back in to the system though!
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Blue_SV650S
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Joined: 27 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: 11:42 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of these should see you right https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_204703_langId_-1_categoryId_255216.

It isn't too expensive, really simplifies the job and gets you 100% working brakes. It has a 1-way valve in the pipe, so you can just leave the bleed nipple open and pump at the leaver until there is no more air coming out - filling at master cylinder obviously!

If you have an airlock in the master cylinder, it can be a bit of a pain to get things flowing. The best tip here is to 'bottom fill' this is where you try and force fuel UP the system, hence forcing the air up and out the master cylinder - which is more natural direction for air to flow! A syringe full of brake fluid connected to the open nipple via a bit of pipe is how you do it.

An alternative is to take the calliper off and push the pistons in, this effectively does the same thing of forcing fluid and air up the system (assuming you have enough fluid in the calliper to start with!).
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WherEmEweeD
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Joined: 16 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Cleaned brakes + dot 4 fluid change = Brakes not working xt1 Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:
One of these should see you right https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_204703_langId_-1_categoryId_255216.

It isn't too expensive, really simplifies the job and gets you 100% working brakes. It has a 1-way valve in the pipe, so you can just leave the bleed nipple open and pump at the leaver until there is no more air coming out - filling at master cylinder obviously!

If you have an airlock in the master cylinder, it can be a bit of a pain to get things flowing. The best tip here is to 'bottom fill' this is where you try and force fuel UP the system, hence forcing the air up and out the master cylinder - which is more natural direction for air to flow! A syringe full of brake fluid connected to the open nipple via a bit of pipe is how you do it.

An alternative is to take the calliper off and push the pistons in, this effectively does the same thing of forcing fluid and air up the system (assuming you have enough fluid in the calliper to start with!).


I got myself a pipe and bottle fits very securely.

I have just bleed it fully good 10 times. No bubbles what so ever. Still no pressure in the brake lever.

I don't think the drums are pushing against the disc at all as there is good bit of play in the caliper.

I have just taken caliper off the disc and pads out and there is no movement in the drums at all. I did take the drums out is there something i could have done wrong?

Drums are now stuck fullly into the caliper so i cannot remove them without taking the whole caliper apart
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

try bleeding the banjo bolt at the master cylinder.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Re: Cleaned brakes + dot 4 fluid change = Brakes not working Reply with quote

WherEmEweeD wrote:

I got myself a pipe and bottle fits very securely.

I have just bleed it fully good 10 times. No bubbles what so ever. Still no pressure in the brake lever.

I don't think the drums are pushing against the disc at all as there is good bit of play in the caliper.

I have just taken caliper off the disc and pads out and there is no movement in the drums at all. I did take the drums out is there something i could have done wrong?

Drums are now stuck fullly into the caliper so i cannot remove them without taking the whole caliper apart


It doesn't sound like you are doing much wrong then. Just a bit of terminology though, the 'drums' you are referring to are more commonly called 'pistons'.

As Fisty said, try the top banjo bolt i.e. the one on the master cylinder. It is probably an airlock there.

Best way to do this is to pull leaver to bar, then loosen the master cylinder banjo a bit, let stuff spew out (rags required obviously) then tighten off banjo (with leaver still at bar), you can then release the leaver and repeat a few times. This should clear any air in the banjo.

Hopefully you will then get pressure at the leaver and can bleed one more time in the traditional manner! Thumbs Up
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Dave-the-rave
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a really simple way to do all that without syringes or removing bolts etc. Open bleed nipple and suck on the tube, obviously without getting brake fluid in the gob.

When enough is through then bleed as normal.

Disclaimer to small children and idiots...Don't try this at home.
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WherEmEweeD
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 16 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 15:31 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Cleaned brakes + dot 4 fluid change = Brakes not working xt1 Reply with quote

Happy days shes back online! after much back pain and patience

Used most methods posted but in the end it was sucking the pipe that scored the goal.

Atleast now i'm well educated for bleeding the rear brakes lol

MOT will be soon coming

Thanks for all the advice
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just seen this, there's a much easier way.

The most useful tool for bleeding brakes is time and patience.

Bleeding at the nipple is always the last thing I do, and that's just to remove a tiny air bubble. The cavity under the bleed nipple it tiny, and holds a miniscule amount of air. Most of the air will be in the caliper and line(s), and it will naturally rise up to the top of the line over a short period of time.

Leave the bleed nipple closed and just operate the brake lever using full, slowish strokes. This lets the air up into the master cylinder, and lets the fluid down to replace it. When no more bubbles are coming up into the master cylinder, open the bleed nipple to bleed off the little bit of air in the caliper.

Doing this with the pistons pushed in makes it easier - less space for air to accumulate in the caliper.
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Dave-the-rave
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 05 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

WherEmEweeD wrote:
Happy days shes back online! after much back pain and patience

Used most methods posted but in the end it was sucking the pipe that scored the goal.

Atleast now i'm well educated for bleeding the rear brakes lol

MOT will be soon coming

Thanks for all the advice



Nice one. If you swallowed any you will come out in a rash and you're balls will fall off. No point in suing me cuz I'm skint. Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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