Bad stator?

[Cyclingbiker]

Hi all,

Following on from this thread I want your opinions on a new (2nd hand) stator that I have sourced for my bike. It is from a engine that was being broken on Gumtree, the ad is now gone and I can't seem to find it. The pictures he sent seemed to look okay although they weren't brilliant and couldn't really see any detail.

Anyways I received my stator in the post yesterday and immediately crimped on some new bullets to the bare wire ends so I could attach to the loom when the time came. But my suspicions were aroused when I saw the colour of the uppermost coil, it appears to be coated in some waxy insulating material but it looks to have been discoloured and blackened in places. My hopes sank when I saw this as I thought I have just bought a duff, burnt out stator

Here is a pic of the coil itself, please let me know what you think. It looks rather similar to the coil on the bike ATM, although I haven't yet had a proper look at it as the flywheel has yet to come off.

https://i49.tinypic.com/dfyhx2.jpg

Also I am getting a connection between the yellow charging coil wire with the metal backing plate, same goes with the white wire. This seems amiss to me. I would've thought that an earth of the charging coil is not what I want to be seeing and indicates a burnt out coil. The pic below shows my multi meter displaying a resistance of 0.9 ohms between the yellow wire and the plate, not far off the 0.8 ohms between the yellow and white wire.

https://i48.tinypic.com/23itrw0.jpg

If it is duff I might message the seller and demand my money back. I paid via PayPal (not as gift) so should have some protection from this sort of thing, hopefully
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Honda CB500s (1999) - Honda CG 125 BR-J (1991)

Mod 1 - Passed - 12/11/12 --- Mod 2 - Passed - 26/11/12

[monkeyman]

How many wires come off the stator plate? Is the pick up separate to stator?
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Im not the best, but im in the top one
RM 250, Husky TE610, K1 GSXR 750

[Cyclingbiker]

[uberkron]

Looks normal to me, of course there is continuity to ground, thats what one end of each winding connects to. Ohm readings look ok. Assuming when you touch the probes together it displays a zero of course.
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i ride a zip 50 2smoke. It overtakes a hundred times a day.

[Fizzer Thou]

It does look as though those windings have overheated at some time.If you do a side-by-side test with your original windings how do they compare?

If all else,have a chat with these people,who do a repair and rewind service

https://www.westcountrywindings.co.uk/
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Blau Zedong]

[Cyclingbiker]

[Cyclingbiker]

Bah Humbug! Fedex still haven't delivered the puller from Wemoto, it has been at Stoke for 2 days, next day delivery my arse!

Anyway I have continued my search for stators, the newer ones with many poles are a lot more common than the two poles ones used on the Brazil models. There is only one suitable part on eBay at the moment, it is supposedly in working order but the picture hints at some overheating damage on the upper coil as with mine so I dunno.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CG-125-GENERATOR-STATOR-WINDINGS-/370710606556?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item565012f2dc

I suppose I could just go ahead and fit my stator when I can and see if it works anyway. It does mean draining the oil to replace the plate and refilling it before I can get the bike running.
____________________
Honda CB500s (1999) - Honda CG 125 BR-J (1991)

Mod 1 - Passed - 12/11/12 --- Mod 2 - Passed - 26/11/12

[Cyclingbiker]

Stupid me!

Re-reading the wiring diagrams for my model of bike it seems that there is supposed to be continuity between either the yellow or white wires and earth

It must complete the circuit between the earth connection under the seat and the stator, so that current flows through the frame when the bike is running. It just shows how little I know about how electrical circuits operate

I guess with that out of the way I maybe should just get on with it and fit the bloody thing and hope it works.
____________________
Honda CB500s (1999) - Honda CG 125 BR-J (1991)

Mod 1 - Passed - 12/11/12 --- Mod 2 - Passed - 26/11/12

[Fizzer Thou]

Most electrical measurements are made 'With Respect to Earth'.If you have your multimeter handy and set to 'ohms' resistance,check the various earthing points between the negative (-ve) side of the battery and those points which are connected to the frame.If there is any resistance and it is measuring anything above say one or two ohms the clean where the connector makes contact and put some grease (not copaslip) where it connects then recheck with the meter.A visual check is not always the best method,so clean anything which is rusty.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[orac]

do you have a manual? you should have all the specs for the coils in there.

but even by comparing the two coils, the you are testing looks... well screwed.
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Current rides - 2016 Triumph Street Triple Rx, 1994 Suzuki Bandit 400 VM, TGB 204 Classic 125cc
"with nothing left to lose, there is everything to gain. It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog"

[Cyclingbiker]

[Fizzer Thou]

If the lights are still dim then measure the DC volts across the battery.I am not sure if it should be 6vdc or 12vdc so check what the battery voltage should be.This might be 6N6 or 12NB12 or something similar.The battery is charged by a DC system and this normally powers the lights,horn,brake lights and indicators.Some systems run the head and tail lights on AC voltages,so you will need to refer to your manual.The voltages are normally switched into circuit by the ignition switch and on a Honda this is normally the red wire to the main switch and the black wire to various components.Measure what the battery voltage is with one lead of your multimeter connected to a good earth point and the other to the +ve side of the battery.This will be 6 or 12volts.Measure the red wire taking that same voltage to the ignition switch.Is it the same.Now switch on the ignition switch and measure what that voltage is on the black wire coming out of the main switch.Is it the same as the battery volts?Using your manual or the colour coded wires,check each voltage accordingly ie.when the engine is running,is there the battery volts on the dark blue or white wire supplying volts to the headlight,depending on where the low or high switch position is?Simple things to check so long as you have the multimeter set in the right mode.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Cyclingbiker]

[Cyclingbiker]

Manged to get the flywheel off of the crankshaft a minute ago. took a lot of effort and hitting a spanner to shock the nut that held the rotor to taper free. The flywheel tool was thankfully the right size and the rotor just slipped off the crank with relatively little effort. I can now give the stator coils a good going over.

I was amazed at how bad they are:

https://i50.tinypic.com/6o07pw.jpg

I think this may be my problem right here. I am now determined to swap the other one over as seems to be in better condition superficially. Only problem is that some previous numpty has absolutely mashed one of the screw heads and the other won't budge so I may have to drill them out carefully instead and replace with new.

Also I did check the voltage from the positive battery lead to earth. It seems unusually high at 14v when off. Thinking faulty generator has damaged the Reg/Rec now.
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Honda CB500s (1999) - Honda CG 125 BR-J (1991)

Mod 1 - Passed - 12/11/12 --- Mod 2 - Passed - 26/11/12

[Fizzer Thou]

It does sound as though the rectifier/regulator has a problem from the description of varying voltages that you have given.On one of my bikes the head and tail lights are supplied by the AC winding off the alternator windings with only a regulator to stop the 12vac from going too high and blowing the bulbs.But when the revs drop to tickover on my bike the lights do go quite dim until the revs rise again.You should be able to measure this quite easily.

But the 14vdc across the battery does sound as though it is being overcharged,but this is best checked against what the manual says.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[blurredman]

[Cyclingbiker]

[kramdra]

[Cyclingbiker]

[Cyclingbiker]

Fuck yeah!

It's done, the mashed screws were removed after much struggling with various tools. The first two came off with use of an impact drill with a suitable bit, the 3rd wouldn't budge and broke two bits without moving at all and the 4th was mashed anyway so I couldn't get the bit in.

I had to drill the last two and had moderate success initially. The mashed one came off eventually once the head was weakened and the bond (between alloy and steel) was broken and could be moved with a screwdriver and pliers. The other though broke off flush with the engine case and I had to use a special pilot drill bit and then a left-hand extractor and it came out first time.

The old stator is truly broken, the back plate had a crack in it which spread and broke the plate in two! The new plate went on easily with a fresh set of allen-headed bolts, as opposed to philips head screws, and the flywheel was placed back on easily as well. The wire to attach to the loom were too short though so I had to make a bridge with the end of the wires from the old stator and some spare bullet crimps. In all I added about 8" extra wire to bridge the gap to the loom and wrapped the wire in insulating tape to give some protection.

I also fitted a new rectifier whilst the bike was stripped down just to cover all possible bases.

I am very pleased to say that the lights are now finally back to full brightness and the bike is running smoothly. It does need a good run out as the bike has been sitting idle for a few weeks. I will going out for ride to the Cat and Fiddle tomorrow with a mate on his SV650 with me in front on the CG, can't wit as it has been too long without a ride.
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Honda CB500s (1999) - Honda CG 125 BR-J (1991)

Mod 1 - Passed - 12/11/12 --- Mod 2 - Passed - 26/11/12

[unitynotsocri...]

the electrics are made worse because of the number of different systems on 125'ss,especially chinese clones.
a lot of clones use straight copy jap engines but save a bit of cash fitting them with older style coil lighting systems.

there's loads of variations ,the one above is one of the crudest types,using simple wound coils.same as 70's strokers,mopeds n cg's.
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nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS

[Cyclingbiker]

[unitynotsocri...]

theres a loop circuit in the headlamp switchgear that provide a loop to one of the coils for mainbeam/?

you may have a coil / lighting earth wire earthed with a lighting or indicator earth...

some cheaper circuits incorperate 'ballast resistors',that dump excess juice as heat to keep the voltage steady.
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nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS