Buying a blade with 67k miles..

[pooley_99]

Looking at part exing my cbr6 for a 929 with said mileage.

It's a 2000 and seems tidy. has a comprehensive service history, I always say I would rather buy a high mileage well maintained bike than a low one that's been thrashed. But this is higher than I expected. I know on a car what I'd be checking for, wheel bearings, suspension bushes etc.. What would you be checking for? The chain and sprocket have recently been done, lots if main dealer stamps, so at least the oil has been changed!

In reality I don't think this is what you would call high mileage for a Honda engine.. And it's done less than 500 miles a year on average!
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CBR 900RR Fireblade

[chris-red]

[J4mes]

[CarlosCBR]

Lol Chris, missed a 0 i do believe.
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[Bikeless]

I once knew a bloke who had something ridiculous like 142k on a 97 I think,ran fine,main thing is if the engine is sound,valve clearances?

[Shinigami]

My hornet 600 is at 74k miles and is running absolutely fine, most was done in the first 3 years as it was apparently used as a couriers bike.

cbr600 is the same engine so i imagine the blade while being bigger will be pretty similar and just as reliable? (unless it's been ragged to death)
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Current: Honda City Fly CLR125 2003 Honda CB600F Hornet 2008 Yamaha FZ6 S2 + 1991 Kawasaki GPZ500
"Once you realize what a joke everything is, being the Comedian is the only thing that makes sense.

[pooley_99]

[Kris]

Blades go on for ever if looked after, although the pre-y2k models were more reliable and better built. If I was looking at a high milage blade then my choice would be a 1999 model..
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NSR125RR - ZXR750H1 - ZX9R E1 - GSF600S - GSF600SK3 - VFR400-NC30 - SV1000N - ST1100-R - CBR900RR-R - GSF1200SK5 - GSF600SK1 - VFR1200FA - GSXR1000K2 - ZZR1400 D8F
www.prisonplanet.com

[pooley_99]

[jjdugen]

Y2K 'blades are OK, that's all. Honda tried to play catch-up with the R1, then the GSXR and missed the goal posts quite comprehensively.
IF its not been madly abused, then it should serve you well. If, however, its had some cack-handed treatment, then that old perenial, second gear problem can raise its head.
They also suffer quite severe electrical gremlins that can drive you crackers.... Except its a very simple fix. Honda gather ALL the earth leads together in a big bunch in the loom just under the tank. These rot. Simply remake them all with good soldered joints and thats that done and dusted.
This model hangs the swinging arm off the back of the engine, always check this area for any evidence of damage. Even a mild blow to the swinger can start the engine mounts cracking.
These also had a recall for cracks to the bottom of the fork legs, should have been done but worth checking the area at the bottom of the forks for any cracks.
The only other problem they have is the fuel pressure regulator that goes leaky and gives poor running, lots of info on the dedicated 'blade sites, an easy and cheapish fix.
As to the mileage, these are a robust engine, with proper servicing should be good enough to put a grin on your face for a long time.
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The CBR900RR has been sold. Aprilia Falco worms its way into my heart.
Try Soi 23 on Amazon for a good read.... Self promotion? Moi?

[P.]

My faith in Honda has been restored in my 125 with 72k on it.

I'd trust a Blade with that mileage if it sounded ok.

There is a CBR600F somewhere with 1/4 million

[STONEY!]

That cbr600f your on about has done closer to 400,000 now I know the guy who owns it he lives in southampton and commutes to london everyday on it.

I also know of an 03 r6 with 150,000ish on the clock, still on its original clutch and only needed valves doing once, oh and it had the cam chain replaced but it got sent back to yamaha for inspection and it didnt really need it doing!

[P.]

There was one in the states which was a fair few hundred km that when converted was quarter million, didn't know of one in the UK

[STONEY!]

Aah fair enough

Ive had a fair few high milers come in through the trade mainly:

xj600 diversions courier bikes usually dead at around 100,000
gt750/550 had a few with 150,000 plus still running well
Honda Ntv's had loads with over 100,000 without a problem
varadero 125's 100,000 no worries
cg's usually dead by 80,000 not the engine the bike

Had a chinese cg replica that was used by a courier in london, he bought it new covered it top to bottom in grease rode it for 3 years and 60,000miles without a problem sold it to me for £50 and apart from being covered in dirt around an inch thick there was nowt wrong with it lol

seen a few zx6r's with 70,000 plus on the clock too

[Shinigami]

400k?! i don't feel so bad about the 74k on the hornet now
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Current: Honda City Fly CLR125 2003 Honda CB600F Hornet 2008 Yamaha FZ6 S2 + 1991 Kawasaki GPZ500
"Once you realize what a joke everything is, being the Comedian is the only thing that makes sense.

[kingsknight]

A bloke who parks next to me in town has 98k on his 2000 Cb500 and had 50k on the clock when he bought it in 05. Looks like a dog as he had a few offs but the engine sounds like a dream still.
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TS50 (sold) NS125F (sold) NSR125R-K (write off after 2 crashes) CG125 (nicked) XR125L-3 (Sold )-: ) DR125SM '11 (sold yay) XL125V '12 (In love with this bike) XT600E '04 (fun on the dirt)

[P.]

[UnspeedySam]

[TotalGSXR]

I know for certain that both the 918 'blades and the 929 'blades clocks stop counting after 99999 miles, so you can tell the world you've done a million miles if you like. Honda's answer to this is you need to buy a new set of clocks. There are 'speedometer correction' places that can reset your bike to 0 though.

[Benson_JV]

[TotalGSXR]

[The Tot]

Right,

Here's my 2 pence worth because I've got a relatively "high-miler" 929 at 45k miles. Going rate for 40k milers would be £1.7k - £1.9k so unless you were planning on getting it for £1500, then I'd jog on! I'd realistically value my bike at £1600 even with all the mods done on mine purely because of the miles at with it being a Cat C.

So, my comprehensive list on what to look out for if you're buying an RRY-RR1

Regulator Rectifier - make sure that this and the alternator and battery are in good working order. If any one of the components is out of kilter, then you are in a nightmare situation. I was unfortunate with mine in that my alternator blew, so I had it rewound with a new reg rec and battery. I noticed that my Yuasa battery only lasted a year, so bought another replacement yuasa. 6 months later, the alternator and reg rec went again, taking the battery. So, to avoid the problem ever happening again, get a MOSFET shindingen reg rec (from an 09 R1), and bypass your wiring loom entirely so that your charging system goes directly between your battery, alternator and reg rec. Presumably I had a bad earth somewhere or a faulty loom that was causing a huge drain on charging!

Total Cost £800 when you include the fact I had to get 3 reg-recs,3 batteries and 2 rewound alternators + labour. All in a matter of 20k miles over 18 months!

Suspension - Look for a receipt for a suspension overhaul, both for front forks and rear shock. By 35-40k miles, it would be way past it! I was bottoming my forks out on relatively moderate A roads and it started wallowing about. Any suspension specialist such as MCT will sort it out for £500 odd and get it set up for your riding style. I had mine done at HM racing which included K tech springs front and rear to replace the worn OEM items and set up for A/B roads

Total Cost - £750 - That was all parts, labour and set up at HM racing. Turned it around in 2 days

Discs - 330mm discs are brilliant stoppers, but are known to warp. Mine warped at 32k miles. Rode them in winter mind. So saying that, take the opportunity to get a set of braking/galfer wavy discs and pads from calsport for cheaper than OEM replacement.

Total cost - £420 including fitting

Head bearings - Replace the ball bearings in your headstock with needle race bearings and you out to see a service life of 20k miles. I've had to replace mine twice in the time I've owned her, so they're about £80 quid including fitting. At your sort of mileage, be sure you've had them done within 10k miles.

Total cost - £160

Clutch and Camchain Tensioner - I used to commute in and around London, so I was pretty heavy on the clutch. OEM item went within 30k, so be sure you've had a replacement clutch put in, or budget for one. The CCT was replaced at 30k at the same time for good measure since it was starting to rattle pretty badly.

Total cost - £400

That's an exhaustive list of what I had done to my bike as part of "wear and tear" and normal operation. Considering I put close to 30k miles on her in 2 and a half years, with extensive use in winter and commuting in london, it was bound to take it's toll. I haven't accounted for tyres and chain and sprockets. My C&S kits usually last me a good 20k miles. Dunlop roadsmarts last 8k on the front and 6k on the rear.

Issues I've had with mine were a faulty cam position sensor - The sensor itself cost £140, but it required 5 hours to diagnose the fault so it was a bloody expensive fix in the end! So, if you notice that when you turn the bike on, you have no engine warning lights, the fuel pump primes, but you can't start it despite having full charge, then likelihood is that your cam sensor/cam pulse generator has gone.

I've had a few dodgy earths that have left me stranded as well!

So long and short is that if you're buying a bike from that era - RRY or RR1, you might be liable to electrical problems. If the bike has been kept outside for most of its life, then you WILL expect these problems. Don't take it from me, ask any "reputable" honda workshop. Mine's an extreme case, but even the guys at bransons in gloucester have started taking bets as to when I'm going to kill the bike!

Other useful mods include the following

PCIII and pipe - the 16 bit ECU is a bit snatchy at low speeds and it likes to hunt between 2-3k in 1st and 2nd gear. Pretty irritating when filtering. Get those items fitted and it'll mean smooth running.

Balance your throttle bodies every 20k miles to bring back the smoothness in your throttle response.

OEM Honda nissan pads work the best for the brakes. They work better than after market items, and are a tenna cheaper than EBC HH's at bransons!

Hope this helps!
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism