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Is this expected battery behaviour? (Motobatt)

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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Is this expected battery behaviour? (Motobatt) Reply with quote

Last May i purchased a Motobatt for my bike because the one in it was almost toast.
I put the bike away for winter somewhere around mid to late November last year, hadnt fired it up until today.

I go to fire it up today, switch the ignition on with choke on full, lights on (didnt notice).
It turns over, but very slowly, very slightly more than one rotation per second. I realize the headlight is on so i turn it off, and that gave the starter just enough juice to get the bike running, albeit a bit rough.

So my question is, is it normal for a battery that age to reduce its charge that much since November?
I havnt had the battery on charge at all since i bought it, being a Motobatt i didnt think i'd need to.

The only other thing i can think is that i have my heated grips wired to the battery, but i know they havnt been on at all when the bike has been off, but i have read they can still draw some power even when not on? If thats the case, removing the inline fuse would prevent this right?
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cold is a battery's biggest killer, a couple of months in the garage without use in the weather we've had would be more than enough to deplete it a fair bit. Well worth using a trickle charger no matter what quality the battery is or charge it every few weeks.
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bike (CBR) had the battery disconnected for a month. Not enough juice to fire the bike, enough to turn lights on though.

So yes, quite possibly... but I'd expect the Motobatt to be slightly better.
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

the motobatt model for the 535 is the MB12U.
Stats:

This particular MotoBatt QuadFlex™ battery is a MB12U to fit a Yamaha XV 535 Virago (1988-2003), replacing the convential battery part numbers CB12A-A, 12N12A-4A-1, CB12AL-A2, CB12A-B, CB12C-A, 12N12C-4A-2, CB12AL-A2. The physical characteristics of this battery are:

Battery Capacity: 15 [Ah]
CCA (-18°C): 160 [A]
Dimensions (LxWxH): 135 x 80 x 161 [mm]
Total Height: 175 [mm]
Terminals: 4
Notes: Includes 14 mm bottom spacer


Its worth noting the Viragos charging system is known to be pretty shit. Would some heated grips drain power further even if they arent switched on?
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Are you sure that nothing's draining the battery with the ignition off and that your charging system is AOK?


The only things i have wired up the battery is a 12v socket (nothing plugged into it) and heated grips, which have been off apart from when riding.
Charging system is fine, i cant remember volt readings now but i remember checking them with a multimeter with the bike idling and with high revs. The bike also ran fine with the original battery, it was just knackered though.
It ran fine all of last year, never hesitated to start and always sounded full of power until i tried it today. The last time i fired it up was like i said mid to late November for a couple of minutes
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
The last time i fired it up was like i said mid to late November for a couple of minutes


That isn't going to help, a couple of minutes running isn't going to replace the power you used to start it, plus you don't know the state it was before you laid it up if you'd be just doing local trips with your grips, lights etc it probably wasn't fully charged to start with. Use a battery charger to keep it topped before and during storage.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's not been on a conditioner then you may have knacked the battery.
Only way to tell is to get a charger on it for at least 10 hours then try it again.
The issue is after a charge the battery will have enough oomf to turn the engine over a few times but batteries do not like storage. (Unless of a particular type.)

A check on the condition of the internals and how healthy it is is to use a High Rate Discharge Test.
You can do that on the bike or take it to a garage where they can put a HRD tester on it. Halfords may have a tester. (But I would not be surprised if the Laddie/Lassie don't know how to use one properly. Smile
Basicaly you measure the battery voltage as a heavy load is applied. A healthy battery should maintain fairly high volts for several seconds. (or until it melts the tester Smile) A fubar battery will measure high volts at first but then dive towards zero as the load is maintained.
Quick and simple.
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will a 500Mah trickle charger be ok?

I'll put it on charge tomorrow.
To be honest between October to November i didnt do any journeys longer than about 12 miles either.
I might just remove the heated grips and flog them, they didnt seem to make much difference anyway. Thicker gloves would make more sense.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
Will a 500Mah trickle charger be ok?

I'll put it on charge tomorrow.
To be honest between October to November i didnt do any journeys longer than about 12 miles either.
I might just remove the heated grips and flog them, they didnt seem to make much difference anyway. Thicker gloves would make more sense.

Any battery charger will do it. So long as the output is 12 Volts.
Best not to leave it inside the house as the fumes can be acidic.
Sealed batteries can boil if they are 'bad'. Let it charge then check it after an hour. It may get warm but it should not be Hot and all soft on the outside like a Cadbury Dairy Milk you had in your back pocket all day.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
EazyDuz wrote:
Would some heated grips drain power further even if they arent switched on?


Shouldn't do.....no.


People have had battery drainage issues which have been fixed by fitting the grips though a relay though. So in theory it shouldn't, but can't rule it out completely.

Although with how long the bike hasn't been run for, I would expect a heated grips drainage to have fully flattened the battery rather than just partially. So it's probably not an issue in this case.

EazyDuz wrote:
but i have read they can still draw some power even when not on? If thats the case, removing the inline fuse would prevent this right?


Yes, that would work. However I doubt that's the issue for the reasons above. You could probably check it with a multimeter.

Most likely is the cold attacking the battery as others have said.

First thing that I would do is charge the battery. Run the bike, check that it's putting around 14-15v in to the battery. If it is, put it out of mind, probably nothing wrong. Leave the battery on trickle charge if you're not using it for an extended period of time again.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:

Best not to leave it inside the house as the fumes can be acidic.


Not really, a discharged battery can produce unpredictable amounts of hydrogen when recharged.
There is a very real risk of explosion so take care when connecting/disconnecting the charger - bad idea to do it turned on accidentally.
It's worse in an enclosed space obviously.

There's a chance of acid leaking somehow too, which is pretty bad news for anything in the vicinity.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Walloper wrote:

Best not to leave it inside the house as the fumes can be acidic.


Not really, a discharged battery can produce unpredictable amounts of hydrogen when recharged.
There is a very real risk of explosion so take care when connecting/disconnecting the charger - bad idea to do it turned on accidentally.
It's worse in an enclosed space obviously.

There's a chance of acid leaking somehow too, which is pretty bad news for anything in the vicinity.


Yes really. Leave anything not acid proof in a battery room and it will disintegrate to dust. Smile

But the explosion risk is the greater risk as mentioned.
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

So where the fuck do i charge it? Outside? In which case the cold will probably counter act any attempts the trickle charger makes lol
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
So where the fuck do i charge it? Outside? In which case the cold will probably counter act any attempts the trickle charger makes lol


Garage? Shed?

I've personally always charged mine in the corner of my bedroom as I've had nowhere else to do it. If you do it somewhere well ventilated it'll be fine.

Alternatively you could start the bike and go for an hour or twos ride Smile
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shed has no leccy, garage has a boiler in it with pipes full of oil leading to a huge oil tank in the back garden, would wipe out the entire village haha.
I'll just do it in my room under close observation.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Re: Is this expected battery behaviour? (Motobatt) Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
I put the bike away for winter somewhere around mid to late November last year

EazyDuz wrote:
I might just remove the heated grips and flog them

If you have no intention of riding during the winter months, why would you require heated grips?
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple answer, impulse buy Laughing
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TomGT
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 24 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The motobatt in the CBR went flat after a week, completely disconnected in a garage. Had to replace the battery anyway when I got it, so shelled out extra for a motobatt, pretty disappointed overall especially with the weird allen bolt terminals.

I always plug it into the optimate and when it's charged it's great, but I'd have the same results with any other battery. Jumped it through the oximiser lead, it didn't like it Laughing
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Possible the heated grips do draw a tiny bit of current. Presume the electronic control unit has a tiny power drain to detect whether the on / off is activated if it is not a mechanical switch. Might be worth setting the multimeter to measure amps and put it in place of the fuse (make no attempt to turn the grips on). A 0.005a power drain would kill your battery in about 3 months.

While I would doubt it, it is possible and worth a check.

All the best

Keith
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Possible the heated grips do draw a tiny bit of current. Presume the electronic control unit has a tiny power drain to detect whether the on / off is activated if it is not a mechanical switch. Might be worth setting the multimeter to measure amps and put it in place of the fuse (make no attempt to turn the grips on). A 0.005a power drain would kill your battery in about 3 months.

While I would doubt it, it is possible and worth a check.

All the best

Keith


Very useful reply, will have a look in a few mins thanks
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i went to try and and my multimeter is faulty. It has power but i cant even check volts on the battery, andi dont even know how to check amps lol.
Can anyone recommend a cheap but decent multimeter?

Btw bike fired up fine this morning
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
Well i went to try and and my multimeter is faulty. It has power but i cant even check volts on the battery, andi dont even know how to check amps lol.
Can anyone recommend a cheap but decent multimeter?

Btw bike fired up fine this morning


Fluke multimeters are good.
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