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SRAD 750 1998 wrong gearing?

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Snorty
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: SRAD 750 1998 wrong gearing? Reply with quote

Just received my chain and sprocket kit in the post - the front sprocket is 15 teeth and the rear is 43 teeth. I'm getting so much conflicting information about what the stock gearing is - I asked for stock sprockets from the bike shop I ordered it from, but from what I can telll by googling, the front is too small? What will happen if I fit this? How much will my speedo be out by? (This is my main concern, leeds seems to be the speed camera capitol).

Edit: It's a 1998 fuel injection model
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Last edited by Snorty on 13:28 - 11 Feb 2013; edited 1 time in total
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Aff
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year?
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, should have said - 1998.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

is your speedo driven from your front wheel?

if so it'll be fine as it's working off the road speed, not from the gearbox or engine.

with gearing, the best place to look is on a push bike,

smaller drive gear at the front, better acceleration, lower top speed, bigger gear on the front, higher top speed at price of acceleration.

smaller gear on the wheel, faster top speed, bigger gear, lower top speed but better acceleration,
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh I know if it's fewer teeth on the front / more teeth on the back, the bike will accelerate faster, but the speedo will also over-read, which I'd like to avoid.

It's driven from the gearbox.
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 13:48 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

16/44 is standard gearing.

You'll probably want a healer...they go crazy when you mess with the front sprocket Laughing
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R6Armadillo
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could try looking at https://www.gearingcommander.com/ to get an idea of the speed differences with different gearing.

No idea how accurate the site is but it states a 16/44 standard setup with your bike. I ran -1/+1 for a few years without any problems, just went through cameras based on the speedo so actually slower than I needed to.
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Urgh annoying as fuck. I don't want to be forking out for a healer. I'm guessing I'm best sticking to the stock 16/44, in which case both sprockets they've sent me are wrong, ffs.

The garage is around 12 miles away from me - and I paid postage for these sprockets. I specifically asked for STOCK GSXR 750 '98 sprockets & chain. It even says so on the invoice.

I really can't be arsed trekking over there now to get another one... what should I ask them to do?
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 14:02 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

snorty wrote:
I really can't be arsed trekking over there now to get another one... what should I ask them to do?


See where they got their details from? Got a Haynes?
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well they're JT sprockets, so I'm guessing they order them from the manufacturer. From the manufacturer's website, it says stock is 16/44 as well...

Funny as they don't even do a 43 size sprocket according to the website.

Am I going to notice a difference if I fit these sprockets? I can't really be arsed paying postage back to them, but I don't want to waste the petrol money either on a round trip, if it's not going to make much of a difference.

I don't pay attention to the speed limits anyway I guess, just don't want to be doing 30 in a 40, thinking I'm at the limit.

Oh and fuel economy, will that be affected?
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 14:08 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

8mph slower. Bit more acceleration but not noticeable I reckon.

Speed wise, you'll see a little discrepancy, probably 3-4mph at most.
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, I'll just throw it on then.

As an aside, I'm going to change oil and filter while I have the tools out - will Halfords 10w40 be ok? It's car oil.
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 14:23 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

snorty wrote:
Ah, I'll just throw it on then.

As an aside, I'm going to change oil and filter while I have the tools out - will Halfords 10w40 be ok? It's car oil.


Yeah,

Morrisons/Tesco stuff will be fine also.
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 14:27 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome. That saves me a bit of money then - got an unopened bottle of Halfords sat in the shed.
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 14:55 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

snorty wrote:
Ah, I'll just throw it on then.

As an aside, I'm going to change oil and filter while I have the tools out - will Halfords 10w40 be ok? It's car oil.


I wouldn't use car oil in a bike !!! Strongly advice against !!!
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scarborough_lad
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Car oil will really mess your clutch plates up, use a specific bike oil.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Car oil is fine if it doesn't have friction modifiers in it.
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scarborough_lad
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PostPosted: 15:12 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is bike oil more expensive than car oil?
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Aff
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Generally, yes.
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 15:34 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

scarborough_lad wrote:
Car oil will really mess your clutch plates up, use a specific bike oil.


30 bikes, normal 10w40 stuff, no clutch problems.

I'll keep using the shit from the Morrisons garage Thumbs Up
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devojunior
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

snorty just send it back and tell em what ratios you want and where abouts in leeds you from pal.
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

devojunior wrote:
snorty just send it back and tell em what ratios you want and where abouts in leeds you from pal.


Horsforth, the dude who worked at Pizza Hut remember? Razz
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iMark
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aff wrote:
Car oil is fine if it doesn't have friction modifiers in it.


This.


Make sure on the oil grade area it doesn't say "Energy Conserving" at the bottom half

https://www.aa1car.com/library/API_donut.gif
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

iMark wrote:
Aff wrote:
Car oil is fine if it doesn't have friction modifiers in it.


This.


Make sure on the oil grade area it doesn't say "Energy Conserving" at the bottom half

Thanks for that Karma

I assume if I don't have a oil grade donut; just 'API SL/CF; ACEA A2' and '15w-40' I can probably assume it's free from this friction modifier rubbish? I had a big 5l thing of Shell oil left over from our old car that needed topping up every now and then and used it when changing the 125 oil.
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iMark
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 11 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

it should have a doughnut on it somewhere, but don't hold me to that Smile

Probably just assume it doesn't have the modifier in it yes.. Just have a quick read over what ever is written on the bottle it will mention it if it does have them Smile
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