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Martay
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Shower plumbing Reply with quote

Hi,
I've lived in my new place for about 2 1/2 months now, and the shower is an electric type with a pull cord on ceiling. Now the problem is, its never been really hot. Bearable but not toasty. I've just had an idea, what are the chances it has a hot water feed from the boiler? The boiler is rarely on, and hasn't been on or hot when I've used shower. So, do you think it has a hot water feed from the boiler? It has 3 heat settings, cold, 1 heat, 2 heat and a knob to adjust it. I have it on Heat 2 and the knob on max.
Thanks
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fatpies
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meh nasty power shower right? The one I had was horrendous in winter in my old place (rented so no incentive to replace). It had a cold water feed in the bottom.

In November when it was cold and having a tepid shower..

I went out bought one of those squeeze over the tap hoses, used a jubilee clip on both ends and used the hot water tap from the instant boiler.

It was a fair bit hotter, gas bills went up a tad though.
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carvell
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Re: Shower plumbing Reply with quote

Martay wrote:
Hi,
I've lived in my new place for about 2 1/2 months now, and the shower is an electric type with a pull cord on ceiling. Now the problem is, its never been really hot. Bearable but not toasty. I've just had an idea, what are the chances it has a hot water feed from the boiler? The boiler is rarely on, and hasn't been on or hot when I've used shower. So, do you think it has a hot water feed from the boiler? It has 3 heat settings, cold, 1 heat, 2 heat and a knob to adjust it. I have it on Heat 2 and the knob on max.
Thanks

No.

It's an electric shower - the feed to it is a cold water feed.

Simplest way to make it hotter is to reduce the flow to it. There will (should) be a valve for it somewhere (probably one you turn with a screwdriver). Turn this a little to cut the flow of water and it'll come out hotter.

Or buy a new shower!
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charlie74
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

like the previous guy said, its an electric shower, mains fed with cold water

chances are ( like my shower) its underpowered for this time of year as the cold water is toooooo cold and the flow rate too high to let it heat it to a nice toasty level

the only thing i can do without loosing pressure is to upgrade the unit itself with a higher wattage one ( and the wiring if needed)
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Martay
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did suspect this. Its not my place (private rent) so i can't change the shower. Its in a glass cubicle so a tap one would be difficult from the sink on other side of bathroom Sad Im going to try reducing the flow slightly. If i were to change the shower myself, keep this one and swap it back, can anyone see a problem with that? Im wondering if its just knackered? Thanks for all the suggestions
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fatpies
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martay wrote:
I did suspect this. Its not my place (private rent) so i can't change the shower. Its in a glass cubicle so a tap one would be difficult from the sink on other side of bathroom Sad Im going to try reducing the flow slightly. If i were to change the shower myself, keep this one and swap it back, can anyone see a problem with that? Im wondering if its just knackered? Thanks for all the suggestions




They aren't knackered, its just that it takes a certain amount of energy to heat water. In summer when the water is 5-10C its fine.

But when the water is 1-2C and its cold the head added just isn't enough to feel comfy.


Reducing the feed doesn't always work, a triton one I had used a pressure gauge. If the flow reduced it would flash and turn itself off as I think it needed the water flow to cool the heating coils inside.

I'd just buy a long hose!
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charlie74
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

hard to say if you can swap the unit without knowing what the wiring is rated at,

do you know what power the shower is?
or can you see what the thickness of the cable is?

the other option is to have a chat with your landlord and see if he will allow you to have a more powerfull shower fitted, if you pay for it
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What wattage is it? IIRC the max recommended wattage is 7.5k with standard wiring.

I'd be checking for limescale buildup in the hose & shower head and feed pipe, some also have filters

Our old shower was shit, i fitted a new one and its been loads better, its pretty much plug and play if you stick to the same type and wattage.
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 06:16 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My shower has been doing my head in. My problem isn't the heat of the water, it's the hotter I have it, the less powerful the shower is, also cold fed.

Settings go 1-10, 7 being optimal heat, problem is, it hardly covers you, so you're freezing your knackers off. I've tried turning screws, nothing changes speed wise with water coming out. The colder you have the shower, the faster it comes out :/ Anything less than 7 though is too cold for me.

Also after say 20 mins, the shower breaker switch goes leaving me freezing (have to leave bathroom and go flip the switch for it).

House that jack built. Honestly, the wiring in this place is a joke.
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its sounds like it is knackered to me. Why don't you have a word with the landlord and see if they will have a new shower fitted for you before you do anything else... Thumbs Up
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattEMulsion wrote:
Its sounds like it is knackered to me. Why don't you have a word with the landlord and see if they will have a new shower fitted for you before you do anything else... Thumbs Up


In regards to my problem, I will get round to doing it. From a google it seems some cowboy electrian has fitted it and used wrong wire/fuse etc, seems like after a while it's overloading/overcurrent, causing it to go off at the switch after 20 or so mins.

If it wasn't for it going off, I wouldn't mind, cause I used to leave it running for 10 mins to steam/warm up the bathroom before I got in, but doing that means it'll most likely shut off whilst showering, 1st time it did it with shampoo in my hair, wasn't amused. lol
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t121anf
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said, if you change it make sure your wiring can cope.

Got a 10kw in our shower and we can't get much past half, maybe 2o-clock so to speak, at most in the winter, summer is more like 10-11o-clock.

Cable is ridiculously thick, 10mm rings a bell, yours might be 6mm.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not too conversant with the internals of a power shower, but if you're in a hard water area could it be limescaled up, reducing the heating efficiency?
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
Not too conversant with the internals of a power shower, but if you're in a hard water area could it be limescaled up, reducing the heating efficiency?


Possible, if I turn the switch off I should be safe right? It's got it's own switch next to all the lights, cooker, etc breakers.

I've never been inside a shower box before, I'll have a look some time to see if it is limescale, if not, landlord can sort it.

The drain hole (shower room, no bath) omg, the stench and blockage from previous tenants, so it is possible the shower unit could be gunked up from a number of years cause I know he wouldn't have had a look seeing as he's bone idle and never cleaned the drain hole.

You'd laugh at the wiring in the kitchen, nice fitted kitchen, but the sockets are in retarded places, there's some sockets hidden, screwed to the cupboard with the thick grey mains wire going into them :/
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It could be knackered or the heating element on the way out, but have a look at it and check the wattage rating on it. I would also have a word with the landlord and see if they will replace it with an equal or higher wattage version if your wiring is sufficiant.

I had a knackered old 8kw when i moved in, and it was pretty easy to replace it with another new 8kw shower that works much better and is always hot enough when you turn it up. You never get powerful pressures and lots of heat from most electric showers though.

The idea of getting a bath tap type hand held shower is a good one as a tempory measure. I got one with my new taps when i changed the bath, and though i might as well fit it as it's there. I use it now and then and it's good for cleaning the bath too.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of these showers in rented accommodation are fitted on the cheap. They tend to be lower power units (7.5-8.5kW) because the units are cheaper and the cabling/switchgear is also cheaper. They simply can't provide a decent flow at a decent temperature.

If you take the cover off, you're not going to see very much at all. The heating cans are sealed and any scaling is going to be inside the can and pipes.

You can't fit a bigger shower unless the cabling and switchgear fitted is up to the job plus the MCB in the consumer unit would probably need upgrading too. It's not a job to undertake unless you know exactly what you're doing and have the appropriate test equipment. Electricity and water and all that.

I've got a 10.5kW shower I fitted myself and it's fine all year round BUT it uses 10mm2 cable which is more expensive, a 50A switch which is more expensive, a 50A MCB in the consumer unit and the cable routes need careful planning to avoid having to derate them.
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fatpies
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hold on you shower for 20 minutes plus? Your mangina is showing!
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Poseidon
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

fatpies wrote:
Hold on you shower for 20 minutes plus? Your mangina is showing!


If his power shower is as weak as the one where I used to live, then yeah... It's necessary!

To get the water to a high enough temperature, the amount of water and the the pressure of it coming out of the shower head was around the same as a spray bottle one might purchase from a garden centre for around £2.99.

My shower routine was this:
Arrow Switch shower on, let it run for around 5minutes to get warm.
Arrow Jump in and stand there for about 10minutes whilst the pathetic trickle of warm water gently heats one 4cm2 patch of skin at a time. Slowly rotating for semi-even warming can help, but often the draught caused by the rotating movement cancels out the warming effect of the shower.
Arrow Lather up (30sec-2min)
Arrow Rinse off, which owing to the lack of pressure, takes at least 5minutes, and never feels like you've got it all off.

Add on a sneaky tug between steps 2 & 3 and you're looking at an absolute minimum of 20minutes.

Thankfully nowadays, our shower runs direct off the bathroom taps. Plenty of flow and hot within seconds mean my showers take around 5minutes if I'm in a rush. The only downside is that I'm at the mercy of the hot water tank (and my wife's usage of hot water in said tank)
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andym
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before I moved from Glasgow I had a 7.5w shower fitted in my flat which was crap in the winter.

The first place I lived in Bristol had a shower which for some reason blew the pressure valve, so I ordered the new part, opened the unit (amazingly simple design in there I thought), removed the pressure valve and found it was just a little plastic ball that had popped out. So I pushed it back in and never had a problem with it again.

Not sure how much limescale would affect the shower though, I always thought that would just affect the flow through the head if anything, but the higher you have the heat set the lower the pressure is going to be because it has to heat the water more before it gets to the head.

I've used my shower on its coldest setting to spray engine parts, and usually on the warmest setting to get water for dishes etc (I'm too cheap and scabby to put the immersion heater on for 3 hours to do the dishes, so I'll fill a couple of pots from the shower and add a kettle of water)
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

They often have a little thimble-shaped gauze filter in the water inlet. This is prone to being blocked.

I personally throw them in the bin.
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Poseidon wrote:
fatpies wrote:
Hold on you shower for 20 minutes plus? Your mangina is showing!


If his power shower is as weak as the one where I used to live, then yeah... It's necessary!

To get the water to a high enough temperature, the amount of water and the the pressure of it coming out of the shower head was around the same as a spray bottle one might purchase from a garden centre for around £2.99.

My shower routine was this:
Arrow Switch shower on, let it run for around 5minutes to get warm.
Arrow Jump in and stand there for about 10minutes whilst the pathetic trickle of warm water gently heats one 4cm2 patch of skin at a time. Slowly rotating for semi-even warming can help, but often the draught caused by the rotating movement cancels out the warming effect of the shower.
Arrow Lather up (30sec-2min)
Arrow Rinse off, which owing to the lack of pressure, takes at least 5minutes, and never feels like you've got it all off.

Add on a sneaky tug between steps 2 & 3 and you're looking at an absolute minimum of 20minutes.



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