|
|
| Author |
Message |
| blahheed |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 blahheed Trackday Trickster
Joined: 10 Aug 2004 Karma :  
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| owl10 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 owl10 Could Be A Chat Bot

Joined: 09 Apr 2010 Karma :  
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| evoboy |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 evoboy World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 Aug 2009 Karma :    
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| blahheed |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 blahheed Trackday Trickster
Joined: 10 Aug 2004 Karma :  
|
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| mentalboy |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 mentalboy World Chat Champion

Joined: 05 May 2012 Karma :   
|
 Posted: 09:16 - 23 Mar 2013 Post subject: |
 |
|
I did some last year for a mate and they were the most stubborn set of calipers I've ever had the misfortune to strip. All the pots were seized, I could only wonder how the previous owner ever stopped it! They went in the bin as previous tinkerers had scored some of the cylinder walls caused by misuse of grips getting the pots out!
Hope yours are in better nick. If you need to remove the blue stops I have found the cleanest way to do this is with a strip of 4 mm steel, ground to fit into two of the notches. It needs to be a tight fit or you'll just mash the ally stop. ( I have an adjusted coal chisel for the job) then just get a set of large adjustables on it and wind it out - a messier method if you've got no steel to hand is to use the end of a large file, but it does make a mess of the ally!
Edit: wonders if Jivebunny had been near it.  ____________________ Make mine a Corona. |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
| Fizzer Thou |
This post is not being displayed .
|
 Fizzer Thou World Chat Champion

Joined: 06 Aug 2011 Karma :     
|
 Posted: 12:51 - 23 Mar 2013 Post subject: |
 |
|
If the calipers started off looking like these R1 calipers,then give them a good clean externally first,removing the pins,pads and chrome plates
https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture383.jpg
Then pump out the pistons so that they are all about halfway out and almost touching
https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture382.jpg
Try not to let any of the pistons come all of the way out,but note which ones move the most freely and look to remove them last - for a good reason.Push the freely moving ones back into the caliper body and use an old file where the disc normally rotates to stop them moving too far out.Pump out the pistons that are not moving so freely and try and work them so that they both pop out at the same time.Clean the pistons,seals and seal grooves.Once done,reinstall the pistons using only the distortion seals and not the dust seals.Use either compressed air or hydraulic pressure to push out the other pistons,holding back the cleaned pistons.Remove the dirty pistons and seals and clean.Thoroughly clean the caliper body,paying particular attention to road and friction material stuck on the caliper.
https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture384.jpg
Reassemble using either fresh brake fluid (I use DoT4) or red seal grease (ebay).Do not bother to remove the link pipe.
If installing new pads,ensure that the new pads move freely in the caliper.Sometimes excess paint or plating on the pad backplate hinders movement. ____________________ Just talk bikes.What else is there?
Always have a 'Plan B' |
|
| Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
 |
Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 230 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
 |
|
|