What have you done to your bike today? Archive.

[NJD]

Installed the "Fuzeblocks" box that allows for accessories to be wired into it in order to tidy up some of the wiring and remove the connections from the battery.

Took a few hours but I had fun in the process; must be the first bit of wiring I've done that hasn't sent me over the edge.

The rear looks a bit messy because everything's too long, but I ran out of cable ties and once I'd tested it and it worked I was more interested in going out for a spin.

https://i.postimg.cc/FFwMcMX7/2.jpg

Still, the front looks tidy-er, at least.

https://i.postimg.cc/50R3cWSv/1.jpg

Some tidying up to do, but not bad for a days work.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[reavsie]

Took it out for a run and noticed a spanner flashing on the dash - must be time to book in for its first service.
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Previously: GP100U, GP100U, RD200, GT380, GSX400, CX500, VT500, VT500, GS500, R80/RT, ER5, CB500, ER5, CB500, ER5, CB500X
Now: RE Himalayan

[BRUN]

went out for a ride, dropped some supplies at the parents, almost got wiped out by a speeding BMW filtering into my lane

cant wait until i can finally get my tests done, loved being out on the bike again

[Fisty]

The Busa:-

Changed oil and filter, Lubed the chain. Went for a quick rided.

After spending 6 months driving a van the Busa felt so bloody fast.
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Quietly and consistently taking the piss.
TL1000R | Hayabusa | ZXR400 | TL1000S | Bandit 400 V
Fatter and faster than Fret

[Nobby the Bastard]

Rode it to Cheddar.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20210321-wa0004.jpeg
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[ThatDippyTwat]

Changed the jet on the 125. Plug was sooty as all fuck, marks on the jets, so it looks like someones upped it in the past. Dropped it from a chewed up 120 to a new 115. Changed inline filter while at it. Bumps instantly now, but valve is still not lashed properly, and I reckon that's why it won't catch off the starter. Will look next weekend, when I have more time.
https://i.imgur.com/FH6OqIbl.jpg?1

Discovered a noise on the back left cylinder of the viffer. Will look next week, but my money's on a blow in the exhaust (I have a spare rear manifold), or valves (she's already getting them done when a shim pack arrives).
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[Easy-X]

Wired up the indicators on the Super Sport. Found a bullet connector hanging on by a thread in the main loom bundle so fixed that. Managed to re-use the flasher relay I'd just turfed out of the XSR to get the winkers* going

Set the chain slack, various other fettling... gonna be nice to see it back on the road, maybe next week.

*Literally said "winker relay" on the wiring diagram!
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[hellkat]

Got a flat tyre, on account of these mofos.

(lighter for scale )
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Not nearly as interesting in real life.

[NJD]

Covered the piece of crap cracked inlet rubber in electrical tape and cable tied the electrical tape in place because I suspect there's an air leak causing funky throttle response / running issues. The local shop suggested covering the cracks with silicone lube to fill them, but I only have spray silicone lube. Anyone ever heard of this / done this / give me more of an idea of what this bodge is?

Here's what it looked like when I got the bike delivered last year:

https://i.postimg.cc/qBS1QZcS/20200814-155542.jpg

Surprisingly its ran perfectly fine and faultless for many rides during that time, minus the time it randomly ran on 3 cylinder's and the spark plug caps needed replacing with new NGK ones. Its running on four this time round and is nowhere near as bad, which is a good sign.

Main symptom after covering the inlet rubbers over is a intermittent jerky throttle response... but nowhere near as bad as before covering them up.

I suspect adding a vacuum operated scottoiler may have caused the increased symptoms (the vacuum creating greater demand than the cracked inlet rubbers can handle?), but I've got to do some more fault finding / test riding before I can be sure.

I'd rather tail chase on my own time for free than spend hundreds on things that may not be the cause, and since it starts and runs mostly okay I'm not overly concerned.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[Easy-X]

I've got some silicone gasket in a tube (you get it either in red or black I think.) It mings something awful while drying but ends up solid but flexible. Worth a punt for ~£5 a tube.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[NJD]

[Hong Kong Phooey]

Set fire to it.

Not my bike, a mates! Best bike to have a fire on is one you don't own.

Pulled in after a test ride, smokey arse end. Shuts off the ignition, flames, burning plastic (undertray).

Luckily I'm 15ft from a hosepipe, doused the exhausts, they were both glowing like a jetfighter with full afterburners on.

Seems like one cylinder is not firing, so unburnt fuel was being dumped onto the cats, bike being picked up by dealer, second hand but he's only done 180 miles on it.

I thought it seemed a bit underwhelming, for a 1L twin. Suzuki DL1000, should be a lot torquier than it felt.
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'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8

[NJD]

Replaced the air filter as part of my hunt to diagnose the niggle that's causing the running issue, but when I put everything back together the bike sounded like a tractor.

Started fine, ran on choke fine, took it off choke at normal point and sounded bad. Turned it off and repeated the start and revved it a few times and it sounded better. Figured it was just fuel related flowing back through.

A dirty bunch of wires. If I was smart enough I'd know what you can spray over this lot to shine it up.

https://i.postimg.cc/pXTWwqFx/IMG-20210324-152620-389.jpg

I also wanted to replace the fuel filter, but I quickly learnt that it meant taking the bracket that holds the ignition coils etc out and since the lines / filter was full of fuel sitting above an engine (admitted a cold one) I didn't fancy that fun and games today.

https://i.postimg.cc/rw1PQLwp/20210324-111515.jpg

Then I went out for a run and everything was supper speedy, and the throttle felt lighter and more responsive with the new air filter in; but then something weird happened while doing 60 mph that took my focus away from the road and vanished just as quick.

After stopping for rest I got going again and it sounded like a tractor, had virtually not much power and struggled like hell to go anywhere. I limped to a petrol station to fill up but that didn't do the trick (fuel seemed to be vanishing faster on the gauge than normal over a series of commutes / rides), then I purchased a cheap bottle of water and sprayed it on the pipes to learn that one of the coils was running cooler than the outside ones (1+4 on one; and 2+3 ((middle ones)) on another) so wasn't hard to tell what the issue was. And before anyone asks I had done this days ago but it wasn't as bad.

Fault was so intermittent that sitting at a set of lights it was fine one minute, then revs dropped and sounded bad again the next; and then was fine a few moments later / shortly up the road (happens in bouts).

New spark plugs didn't do the trick, but cutting the HT leads and screwing them back in did. It's the second time this has happened so I think I may just replace the coil when I can find a used one cheap enough, or a new one when I get paid.

Thank god for sunny days saving me a million pounds of investigation fee's (labour costs).
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[Easy-X]

The Super Sport is done! After redoing all the cable routing as per the Honda specs everything looks nice and neat

"Oh fuck..." petrol leaking from the petcock I grabbed up my tube of previously mentioned silicone gasket thinking some rubber component had perished in 40 years to find out the sealing O-ring was completely absent Well yes, that would account for it...

Shakedown test tomorrow morning, hope it's a nice day!
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

"I've got the horn!"

Oh really?

Best fit it to the bike then After another readjustment of the chain slack the Super Sport is on the road!
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[hellkat]

Fuck I love Derek and Clyde.

Today I shouted at a chav mum on the Kings Road who insisted on pushing her brat out in a pushchair in front of me. So I hauled on the anchors and glared. She tried to shout at me and say I am supposed to let people cross. I just told her off for sticking her kid out in the traffic without looking, and called her a fucking idiot.

But I let her cross, didn't I. I fuckin' stopped, didn't I.
Fucking braindead bint.

Damn Snarley, seems to be stuck on Menace mode.
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Not nearly as interesting in real life.

[Tdibs]

More work on the DR650

Stripping the rear end out for a new shock.

https://puu.sh/HtO0b.jpg
https://puu.sh/HtO0e.jpg
https://puu.sh/HtO09.jpg
https://puu.sh/HtO06.jpg

Thought the linkage bearings would be worse but only 1 dead one.

https://puu.sh/HtO04.jpg

Either going to powder coat or diy paint.
https://puu.sh/HtO02.jpg

I think going to have to replace this barrel too, ones hade some fun with a screw driver at some point I think... This takes a good 30 secs everytime to get it on
https://puu.sh/HtO03.jpg
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Previous : 09 Vanvan 125| 02' Sv650s || Current: 1999 Xj600n | 1992 DR650 RSE | 2005 Fazer 1000

[reavsie]

Did the first service (300 miles) on the Himma. Valve check and oil & filter change.

Seemed okay on the test ride, as long as no oil leak overnight then it's job done.
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Previously: GP100U, GP100U, RD200, GT380, GSX400, CX500, VT500, VT500, GS500, R80/RT, ER5, CB500, ER5, CB500, ER5, CB500X
Now: RE Himalayan

[Easy-X]

Gave the old CB400 a spin round the block. I know my XSR isn't the smallest bike in the world but by todays standards it's pretty average. The old Honda is tiny! I didn't get the same feeling riding the DT175 so it shows how important seat height can be.

Anyhoo, it's finally "biking season" and I will commemorate this by changing out my visor for the tinted one
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[blurredman]

Managed to find and bodge a front brake switch as the cheap aftermarket ones don't last long. 3 in 2 years have failed closed continuity.


Best to have at least one working ,
I only bothered because my rear one had failed yesterday, open continuity... Will fix that one tonight.
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1990 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.

[MarJay]

Checked oil and tyre pressures and took it for a ride last night.

The other halfs ER6n needs a front brake fluid change. It currently looks like oxtail soup...
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[trevor saxe-coburg-gotha]

over the passed few days - headstock bearings, air filter, fork oil

notchy taper bearings replaced for new smooth same, after approx 22k - a typical sort of interval for a zx9r (oem is cup and cone but taper is cheaper and doesn't feel much different)

fork oil hadn't been done since about 18k (three years ago) - now on 79k - so uhm, erm, yeah, missed an interval or three there - the oil had broken down into two cracks - 90% piss thin black stuff, and the remainder thick goo

a degree of damping has thus returned - but this has firmed up the ride, so i clicked back a couple on the adjustment

headstock bearings got a proper bedding in over the weekend couple hundred miles on dicey, knackered back lanes - spirited pratting around - so had to go back for a bit of tweaking - all good now

back lane shenanigans shook side stand loose (and put out bulbs on tacho) - i knew there was mischief afoot w/ the stand having noticed it was loose a few years ago - and that the frame thread was stripped - my mate managed to get it to tighten, w/ the proviso that it get sorted properly

then it's 2 or 3 years later - i was just about to oil the pivot point when i noticed how loose it was

so that got heli coiled on sunday afternoon by alan @ ASL motorcycles, merton york

then yesterday i parked on a verge at burythorpe - ground felt not just firm but hard - yeah well, camber was working against me a bit, and i got ten feet away and heard a crunching noise - never good, that

luckily i'd put me lid on the grass right next to the bike and it slowly keeled over on to it, wrenching the visor off but only thing that happened to bike was N/S flasher was bent upwards all squiffy - after getting the jab in town i called in at alan's again and he just pulled it back into position, no harm done sfaict

bike is starting to look a bit tired now - wheel paint shagged, panels all good - but box section swing arm, headlight type, pillion seat and general styling all looking long in the tooth - cycle parts getting hammered week after week, inc. through winter (is main transport) - although the notorious 6 pot callipers aren't too bad providing you use both hands and brake a few minutes in advance - really good feel on the lever, but it just doesn't translate like it would on more modern stuff

mechanically i.e. internally it'll run forever - but it's all in danger of being surrounded by blagged bits and pieces - pillion pegs gone droopy now so just spend 40 on a new pair inc. hangers - some weird shit happening with the ignition now as well (sometimes simply won't start at all - so reset everything and bam, fine - worried it might strand me somewhere though - would be interesting to get it to 100k, if i can possibly do that - not sure what next, don't fancy the s1000sx much


https://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/0e/bb/12/26/burythorpe-church-on.jpg
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"Life is a sexually transmitted disease and the mortality rate is one hundred percent."

Mobylette Type 50 ---> Raleigh Grifter ---> Neval Minsk 125

[redeem ouzzer]

Been trying to get my GSXR400 on the dyno to finish setting up as regards jetting and fiddling with the Ignitech box.

Last attempt it refused to run on 4 cylinders consistently which was traced to a 30 year old wiring harness. The ignition side has been completely rewired and simplified to cut out the side stand switch and relay box which seems to have cured it.

Anyway, round 2 -

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50998883029_d37c3a62f1_h.jpg

First curve (57 bhp) is with the standard ignition curve. The next two at just over 60 are with evolution of the custom ignition curve and 3D ignition setup. Basically on things like the CBR400 Dullarm the feel of torque and driveability is an illusion faked by varying the ignition curve (in Honda's case using TPS). By much trial and error you can see the gains in HP in the lower end (from 6k to 9k) then a healthy gain between 10k and 13k. Still a bit rich very low down, dropping the needles all the way helps but leaves it slightly lean at top end so I need to find smaller pilot jets and / or upjet on the mains. But it's getting there, hopefully will be ready for first track day in early June.
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Be a REAL MAN!

[Easy-X]

[NJD]

1] Cleaned the rear brake caliper and lubricated the pedal, but this time went to the extreme of lubricating the small bolt that attaches the pedal to the rear master cylinder because rusty and neglected.

Imagine this will solve the weird pedal feel post clean, but may slap a used rear master cylinder on if it doesn't (not that I think there's anything overly wrong beyond neglect of that pivot).

https://i.postimg.cc/x10L1g68/Fazerblue2002-2-Copy.jpg

2] Replaced the L/H foot-peg assembly yesterday because the bolt that holds the foot-peg in place (and thus the shift lever) was rounded of by moi previously. Spraying it with lube was okay, but eventually it got to metal on metal and had a feeling it was pre-loading the box because it wasn't returning to natural position all the time.

Loosening the lock-nut on the shift adjustment rod and spinning the bracket off and spinning the new bracket assembly onto the pre-existing shift adjustment rod saved time trying to get lever height correct.

Today I torque'd the bolts for the foot-peg up because I forgot, and it was a little wobbly / I hit neutral a few times?

3] Attempted to trace the cause of the starting problem I'm having. Nothing alarming at this point, but takes a coupe of attempts to cold start and the revs seem reluctant to climb and then are fine after a couple of seconds (fires up but dies under button only -- not that I've ever cold starter on the button only without throttle; revs seem low then fine with button + twist of throttle after couple of seconds; pre-open throttle and button not always successful).

Some investigating to do, and some variation in starting procedures to try. Believe its the part of the ground wire that plugs into a plug on the loom that may be a little loose (either snapped clip -- couldn't tell -- or vibration) but I did also fit some new plugs recently so may need to pull them out and check the gaps (may have gapped them wrong).

Modified routing of Fuzeblocks connectors onto the battery, and made sure the small bolts are tight.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶