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M.C
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ The patron saint of motorcycle tinkering must be on holiday.

Concluded I need an abba stand (inb4...), can't see a way to lift the (front of the) bike without removing the exhaust.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
I'm going to have a hot bath but I will not cry Razz
Could be worse, (assuming a full set of wheels fitted of course) you could have ridden it into a ditch at 2mph... Embarassed
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought it was about time I adjusted the suspension on the 1250 to see if it helps the vibration thats appeared.

It has. Thumbs Up

Must better with a slightly softer setting.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
M.C wrote:
I'm going to have a hot bath but I will not cry Razz
Could be worse, (assuming a full set of wheels fitted of course) you could have ridden it into a ditch at 2mph... Embarassed

There's now Smile Remembered I owned one of those cage things, and that it probably had a jack. Used it to raise the bike from underneath the engine (a tad precarious) and the wheel went on easy Rolling Eyes

I think the discs will be ok, the damage's to the centre bit (not where the pads are in contact). Speaking of pads they've locked together, I think when the bike fell over in the van.
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 09 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted a new headlight bulb - the old one (35/35) blew its dipped filament on the way home from the 'H' yesterday - I was glad of the ambient lighting from the day runners. As promised a week or two ago, I have fitted a 60/55; we will see how it goes over the next week or so.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
I was thinking that, I checked online but as far as I could tell they were all the same. I'm going to have a hot bath but I will not cry Razz



Rated your post as funny, because it is.


That said, not far off being a very nice bike Smile


I'm sure you'll crack it, just possibly with the occasional visit to the Workshop forum and maybe triumphrats forum or something.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/browser/manufacturer/triumph


The part number of the axle bolt for my bike ('13)
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5596491/street-triple-from-vin-560477/front-wheel

Is the same as yours
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/9030/street-triple/front-wheel

Part T2000650

So surely it should fit. Can you try screwing in the axle without the wheel to make sure the threads aren't fecked or some other issue.



EDIT

MC wrote:

Concluded I need an abba stand (inb4...), can't see a way to lift the (front of the) bike without removing the exhaust.


Abba for the rear. Then you can get the Abba addition to do the front, but its pricey. Alternative, is a 2 tonne trolley jack for £30 off ebay + block of wood under the sump.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 01:24 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since the fork change, I've gained stability and comfort, but lost the 250cc handling, the pick any line I want, brake any where I want, accelerate nearly anywhere etc
I was no longer hustling and on the boil and more heaving and on a simmer Smile

It tipped in ok, but just before apex, had to use body weight, arms and pegs to heave it over and she understeered a little and I couldn't tighten the line if I got it wrong.

I'm exaggerating the description, but that's what it felt like. I was still fairly quick, but not "at one" with my motorcycle.


Had a day at work spent trying not to rage quit, much anger and frustration. All I could think is, you get one life, why the fuck are you wasting it here!?!?!?
Thinking about children in India getting gold from motherboards, people in Africa dying of dysentery and the very fortunate position I'm in by being born in England.....didn't help.

Came home and took the front end off my Striple again.

Put the forks back to +1mm on stock above yokes.
Backed out 1/3 turn of rear shock preload
Added 2 clicks of slow speed comp and took out 4 clicks of rebound. Left the Hi Speed comp alone for today.

Having re-read GoStar pages, it sounded like I might have too much rebound comp. Because the rear shock is staying compressed for too long and the front is unloaded into the bend.
Plus if the fork oil is too thick, then comp up front is slowed. But being basic forks, that kinda works both ways, thick oil slows rebound too. I have no adjustment up front beyond oil + springs + preload spacers.

So on the rear shock, less preload, more comp damping, less rebound.
On front, lowered forks back through yokes for comfort.


Didn't measure any sag. I know roughly where it is and this is just minor tweaks. I'll go by feel from now.

But feck me, what a result. The bike is sooo nearly back to its 250cc handling best, but with the added advantage of being significantly more comfortable. Relaxed riding position and a pretty smooth ride too.

I ragged her silly for 60 miles this evening across my favourite local roads. Braking later, getting on the throttle earlier. To the point where again, I'm so far behind the bike. Basically not breaking anywhere, just settling for a millisecond, throwing it in and getting straight on the gas again.
As a test, I came barrelling into a corner much faster than I would, then trail braked into the corner. No dive, let go of the brakes and no understeer.

Chickenstrips are the smallest they've ever been and the balance is now back to pushing the rear 1/3 more than the front (I feel happier this way).

I'm not saying I'm quick or competent. Simply that the mods have (finally) worked for me and I feel "at one" with the bike again, able to change direction, or line or apex without feeling tense, quite the opposite. And this is 6ft2 16 stone with a 46l topbox of tools + snacks.

I'm happy the spring rate is right, the oil level could probably come down 5mm and the weight down from 15w to 10w (after 30 miles hoon, the handling was getting better, which I assumed was oil thinning).

Quick around the twisty, narrow farm b-roads, stable on the wide sweeping NSL's
The near perfect compromise. She's all-day comfortable, but shown some twisties (even with a topbox full of crap) and we're onnit Twisted Evil

Once again, she's all about the hustle Mr. Green

VERY happy chappy Very Happy
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.....
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PostPosted: 07:44 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have Öhlins offered you a job yet Pigeon?
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choogh
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PostPosted: 08:40 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those who know about the beemers dry clutch units, will also know just what a ball ache it is to access them.
So, today I removed the seat, battery and all of the fairings (R1200rt), removed the petrol tank, rear portion of the exhaust and various cable ties and connectors..
Still a few hours work BEFORE I get close the removing the rear end of the bike, then perhaps in this life time, gain access to the clutch..
What a crazy set up, plus 12 hours work to change a clutch !!!!!
Only a BMW 😱
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pigeon wrote:
chickenstrip wrote:

Idiot question perhaps, but aren't wheel bearings normally sealed these days?


I don't know enough about them, but did find this useful in explaining the bearing numbers
https://www.engineerstudent.co.uk/bearing_numbers_explained.html

As you say, most wheel bearings are "RS" enclosed on both sides.


OE sprocket carrier bearings, especially on Kawasakis, were often open and need to be repacked with a bit of grease occasionally. They rely on the outer seal for protection. Most decent bearing kits nowadays will come with a fully rubber sealed bearing (2RS) for the sprocket carrier.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pigeon wrote:
M.C wrote:
I was thinking that, I checked online but as far as I could tell they were all the same. I'm going to have a hot bath but I will not cry Razz



Rated your post as funny, because it is.


That said, not far off being a very nice bike Smile


I'm sure you'll crack it, just possibly with the occasional visit to the Workshop forum and maybe triumphrats forum or something.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/browser/manufacturer/triumph


The part number of the axle bolt for my bike ('13)
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5596491/street-triple-from-vin-560477/front-wheel

Is the same as yours
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/9030/street-triple/front-wheel

Part T2000650

So surely it should fit. Can you try screwing in the axle without the wheel to make sure the threads aren't fecked or some other issue.



EDIT

MC wrote:

Concluded I need an abba stand (inb4...), can't see a way to lift the (front of the) bike without removing the exhaust.


Abba for the rear. Then you can get the Abba addition to do the front, but its pricey. Alternative, is a 2 tonne trolley jack for £30 off ebay + block of wood under the sump.

I managed it with a car jack. I thought about removing the skid plate and raising the bike at the scene, but I only had my bottle jack with me. I think it was the angle of the bike and/or the camber of the road that was causing the issue.

Anyhoo just freed the pads with an assortment of kitchen utensils, it was surprisingly easy. Tried to clean up the discs with some sand paper in addition to the wire wool I used yesterday, they came up err... virtually the same Smile:
https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/15/13/82/47/img_2020.jpg

Might repaint the fork bottoms at some point (so almost certainly won't).
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just popped a new front tyre on, waiting for a while to make sure it is holding air before I put the wheel back on.

Did the rear a few weeks back and struggled getting the new tyre on, not usually a problem, The rear was a Bridgestone T30 GT which was all I could get at short notice (mother of all punctures courtesy of a giant drill bit). Front was a doddle in comparison and was my preferred tyre, anAvon Storm 2, with a rear Avon now set aside to go on when the T30 squares off.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

My local tyre place fitted a tyre for a fiver. They also replaced the valve on a woman's tyre for a fiver, I think they charge that for everything Smile

Edit: glued the cracked mudguard, re-fitted it to the bike but now one of the brake cowls seems to be fowling the disc Confused Also lubed the chain to within an inch of its life as it had started to get a bit rusty.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe wrote:
Have Öhlins offered you a job yet Pigeon?



Not yet, even with a third class degree from the BCF School of Trial and Error Laughing
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:

Edit: glued the cracked mudguard, re-fitted it to the bike but now one of the brake cowls seems to be fowling the disc Confused


Are you referring to the plastic fork protectors? Only way they would fowl disc is if they are either on the wrong sides, or have been fitted inside the bracket (disc side) rather than outside.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 10 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm that's them Smile I'll be honest I took them off in a hurry, but the way I put them back seemed to be the only way they fit. I'll have another look tomorrow.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 11 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
Hmm that's them Smile I'll be honest I took them off in a hurry, but the way I put them back seemed to be the only way they fit. I'll have another look tomorrow.


Staring at the front of the front wheel, the protectors sit with the tallest plastic bit closest to the fork stanchion, with the holes for the bolts to the outside of the fork bracket. Thumbs Up

Then the mudguard goes over the top.

Easiest way, is to put both in position, then try and slide the mudguard over the top. Easy to knock one off, but its simple to ease them back underneath.


bolt -> mudguard -> fork protector -> bracket
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 11 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Replaced the one bolt on the front mudguard on the GSXR50 that was wrecked.

That is pretty much everything done before I get it MOTed and register it. And then decide what to do with it.

All the best

Katy
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M.C
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 11 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted those bits properly thanks to Pigeon Embarassed Fixed the seat lock; the cable had popped out of its holder, but you can pop the seat off easily enough anyway. Small steps Smile
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 11 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked and lubed the chain.
Checked the oil level. (OK)
Took it on two shopping runs, giving it some.
I and the bike still alive.
LOL.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 11 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Project - Cut through siezed fine adjust on old clutch mount, freed cable without a mark, so reused on new, shiny levers. "Engineered" (bodged) a plate for the universal brake switch on the rear, will do until the OEM one arrives on what must be a very slow boat from Spain. Added a bit more copper silicone to a tiny bit of blow on the exhaust.

To Do -
Get smaller sized female Lucar's for front brake switch, make up adaptor wires.
Replace headlamp bulb.
MOT it.
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Groove
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 11 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted ebc pads all round on the speed. Huge improvement even though I only had a 3 mile test ride. Unfortunately I've now realised how soft the front is under braking. The rear still seems to just be for show though Laughing

Not sure what was on before but they had plenty of 'life' left but lacked any initial bite at all.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 11 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know if its a Triumph / Brembo rear thing. But if there isn't a decent amount of travel in the rear brake pedal, then absolutely feck all happens at the back.

Even with 30mm travel, its still pretty crap.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 11 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pigeon wrote:
Don't know if its a Triumph / Brembo rear thing. But if there isn't a decent amount of travel in the rear brake pedal, then absolutely feck all happens at the back.

Even with 30mm travel, its still pretty crap.


Found exactly the same on mine. Next to nothing from the rear brake. Not much fun when coming down the Hardknott Pass Shocked
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 12 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pigeon wrote:
absolutely feck all happens at the back


Rear brakes are for pussies and people doing CBT.

BCF has decreed real manly bikers only use the front Rolling Eyes

To be fair Pigeon, yours is probably covered in a combination of lube, ACF50, silicone shine and fork oil Wink
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