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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

thx1138 wrote:
I must admit to not having a spare sump washer, and been using the stock one for just over a year. Embarassed

Actually, I did get a paid service when I got new piston, and washer didn't look too bad today, so maybe they changed it. Confused


tbf, i've had the same washer on the fz6 since 2013

might change it on next oil change...if it's mashed up, if not, screw it Cool
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Serendipity
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

TL;DR: After passing an MOT and about 300 miles of commuting I found that my front calliper mounting bolts were only finger tight. Embarassed

After 85,000 miles, my fork seals had started weeping so I stripped them down and they went from this:

https://i.imgur.com/sVY8Ng1h.jpg

Via a little bit of this:

https://i.imgur.com/JdsYXvyh.jpg

To looking more like this:

https://i.imgur.com/YzuxXyMh.jpg

New genuine seals, fresh oil and put it all back together before zooming straight round to the bike shop for an MOT, which it sailed through…

…but there was a gentle knock through the bars over bumps and ripples in the road. I was so fixated that I’d done something wrong with the fork internals that I failed to check the obvious. It was only after a couple of weeks, last night as I rode home that the front brake juddered as I gently slowed approaching traffic lights and a doubt pinged into my head. I had definitely torqued up all the bolts as I went right? There’s no way I could have forgotten such critical bolts?

Except it seems I did. Both callipers. In fact the left ones weren’t even finger tight, hence the judder. Now nipped up to the correct torque

Oh well. Not deaded. Live and learn. Smile
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2007 CBF1000-ABS - Commuter heaven | 1994 CBR600FR - Awaiting defibrillation
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not deaded is always a plus Thumbs Up
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Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serendipity wrote:
After 85,000 miles, my fork seals had started weeping so I stripped them down and they went from this... to this... Smile

Nice! It crossed my mind to do this, and now they've got to come apart yet again perhaps I will. How did you clean them up before priming? Shot blasting, paint stripper, wire wool and elbow grease...?
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Tracer1234
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
Not deaded is always a plus Thumbs Up


That's always the ideal situation to be in at the end of the day.
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Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tracer1234 wrote:
The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
Not deaded is always a plus Thumbs Up


That's always the ideal situation to be in at the end of the day.


Thirded. Congrats on being alive! Although I'm pretty sure I did this once in my early self-bike-servicing days.

Also interested to know how you got the forks to look so nice...not that I'm doing anything that requires effort or cost to my bikes. Razz

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
I'll re-use one if it's in decent condition, but that one was utterly fucked. I needed to change the cooler as well (original leaked, badly), so did it at the same time


Have you somehow bought a bike where literally every component is completely shagged? I hope it was cheap! Laughing

Nothing to report with the Bros after a couple of weeks of commuting on it. The fork seals still aren't leaking, and the CBR600 internals have made SUCH a difference! Looks like I got away with reusing the old bushings. Smile Also I like that it looks a little more rat with the fork gaitors I've had knocking around in the shed for ages.

I do need to re-route the radiator hose back where it's supposed to go, put the protective wire back on it, and put the radiator grill back on as well.

I've also got some cheap chinese pod filters that have just arrived to replace the airbox, because all the rubbers for it have perished, so is doesn't seat on the carbs properly anymore.

I'm also going to route the cylinder head breather which blows a little oil into the airbox when thrashed (worn piston rings maybe?) into a makeshift catch can/bottle, as I can't just have it blowing oil all down the sides of the engine when the airbox goes...
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swapped a nearly worn out Racetec front tire for last years PR4.

While doing this I did round off a 12.9 bolt. This should be impossible. Drilled the head off, need to remove wheel again to get calliper off and I will use an er32 collet chuck to remove the remains of bolt.
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Serendipity
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
…How did you clean them [forks] up before priming? Shot blasting, paint stripper, wire wool and elbow grease...?


In this case I tried doing it all myself so I looked around for chemical paint stripper that still contained the excellent, but now banned dichloromethane. It used to be in Nitromors, but they dropped it from the ingredients a few years ago. I found a product called Starchem Synstryp which gets good write-ups and procured some. As it’s meant for professional use you can only get it in 5 litre bottles for about £25…

…Then I didn’t use it.

It’s fairly volatile and gives off loads of poisonous fumes. I don’t have decent breathing equipment and it was quite warm weather when I was stripping the forks. I tested a patch and the stripper seemed to dry too fast and was a bitch to clean off. So I decided to manually remove the old paint and corrosion.

I used a selection of wire wheels on a drill and followed up with wet and dry at 400 and 800 grades to smooth off, but leave enough texture for the primer (I hope). I spent quite a while sat on a chair in the garden rubbing them down, probably looking like I was wanking into a bucket. Embarassed

I washed them down with soap and water, followed by isopropyl alcohol. I read on the cbf1000.com forums that Rustoleum 2116 stainless steel was a good colour match so picked up some of that along with grey primer 2182 and gloss topcoat 2500. I probably used less than half the primer and even less of the metallic flake, but went through an entire can of gloss without achieving a smooth finish so picked up another one and used about a quarter of that.

Cost-wise it didn’t compare favourably with my CBR600F forks. With those I disassembled and masked them before handing them over to a local coating business who sand blasted and powder coated them for £30. Spraying the CBF1000 forks myself probably results in a less tough finish and the paint alone cost about £50.

Next I may have a go at the swingarm because that's looking pretty tatty and I've already got half the paint I'll need. Plus it'll give me a reason to examine all the bearings and shock linkages before the dark days of winter sweep in. I'm lucky enough to have the excellent CB500 as a spare steed so it doesn't matter if I have the CBF1000 off the road for a few days and I can take my time.
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just heard "project Zontes" has passed mot, dont know if any advisories yet.
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Musketeer
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Fireblade died for the first time since I removed stock alarm years ago. This morning it started, but was already giving me signals that something was not right with the battery. I was silly enough to ride 1 mile to petrol station to fill up. It didn't want to start anymore after that Doh!

I couldn't be bothered to bump start it on a leveled surface (I've never really tried to bump start 1000cc before.. but 2T 125cc and 4T 600cc yes, I did that many times). If I was stranded somewhere far away from home I would have no choice but to try. Home was close and I had unused MotoBatt battery sitting there in my cupboard so I decided to have a short walk home, grabbed a toolbox and battery, put it in my car and after 5 minutes of spannering the bike was alive again. I took it home.

I had to walk to get my car after that, but I took my dog with me so he had a walk too.

Yes I'm lazy Cool

Now I have to investigate if it's just a battery that I didn't look after (never bothered to charge it) or maybe alternator is on its last legs.
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

JZ wrote:
I couldn't be bothered to bump start it on a leveled surface (I've never really tried to bump start 1000cc before.. but 2T 125cc and 4T 600cc yes, I did that many times).


I bumped the 1994 Blade I had a few years ago, after it had been sat for ages. There was also snow on the ground (I used a thin strip of non-snowed surface for the bumping).
Admittedly it took ages... Like a solid half hour. But it did go eventually.
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Musketeer
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think I would make it on levelled surface.. Fireblade has so much engine braking that would prevent the rear wheel from spinning when in gear. Down hill or with someone pushing my bike with me sitting on it... that might work.

ZX-6R I could bump start just by pushing it myself.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed the wannabee apehangers for something sane.
Repaired the throttle tube.
Cut out the pegs inside the switchgear that stop the gear from rotating on the bars as the new bars don't have indents for them.
Re-routed cables and tubes that now have 3-4" of excess.
Still adjusting clutch as it still won't engage fully at anything over 4-5K - Will probably have to make up a shorter cable.
Will probably have to buy a shorter front brake hose.
Checked and adjusted oil cooler banjo's - determined the leak is from the new cooler. DOH! Will figure a way of plugging it, probably copper silicone I think - suggestions welcome.
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Tracer1234
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

5 out of 5 for difficulty today. Neutral

Fitted the mount for the phone holder. Pretty pleased with it, just need to get the actual phone holder now.

https://s20.postimg.org/62zgh0pn1/IMG_20170906_143616-01.jpg

https://s20.postimg.org/chyhdowct/IMG_20170906_143923.jpg
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Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tracer1234 wrote:
5 out of 5 for difficulty today. Neutral

Fitted the mount for the phone holder. Pretty pleased with it, just need to get the actual phone holder now.

https://s20.postimg.org/62zgh0pn1/IMG_20170906_143616-01.jpg

https://s20.postimg.org/chyhdowct/IMG_20170906_143923.jpg


Why didn't you just get a nice simple one that replaces a bolt in the bar clamp?
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

thx1138 wrote:
Just heard "project Zontes" has passed mot, dont know if any advisories yet.


No advisories. Two potential buyers lined up. Thumbs Up

Tonight I swapped my CRF250L for a GPZ500, temporary swap with my friend.





https://s25.postimg.org/unab369hb/WP_20170906_19_08_59_Pro_1.jpg
https://s25.postimg.org/3o6g80n0f/WP_20170906_19_35_31_Pro_1.jpg
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Tracer1234
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt B wrote:

Why didn't you just get a nice simple one that replaces a bolt in the bar clamp?


I have got one that clamps to the handle bar, so in the same place as where the bar bolt clamp would be, and I found it made me look down too far and have my eyes off the road too long. Thought I would give this a go Smile
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Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serendipity wrote:

Except it seems I did. Both callipers. In fact the left ones weren’t even finger tight, hence the judder. Now nipped up to the correct torque

Oh well. Not deaded. Live and learn. Smile



Pretty sure this is some kind of BCF rite of passage Very Happy
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Serendipity
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 07 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I very rarely use the centre stand on the CBF1000 and the last few times I’ve used it the corrosion had got into the pivot shaft and it wouldn’t retract fully.

After the bike was stood on the centre stand for over 2 months earlier in the summer it got worse so I decided to drive the shaft out, clean it up and grease it.

I started by trying to remove the springs with a spring puller that came with a big trampoline I got for the kids a couple of years ago. It’s just a strong hook with a comfortable T-bar handle, but I just couldn’t get enough grip in the right place to pull the really strong springs.

So I headed to Google for inspiration and came across a simple, but very effective method. Found on the V-Strom owners site and posted by a guy called ejy12. Thanks to him….

1. Get a length of strong cord. He suggested nylon boot laces, but I had some thin plastic rope.
2. Rotate the rear wheel so a spoke is pointing directly down and tie the end of the cord around the spoke.
3. Loop the cord around the end of the spring that needs pulling.
4. Pull on the cord away from the spring back towards the rear of the bike.
5. The U on the end of the spring acts as a pulley giving you a mechanical advantage as you pull.
6. I added extra leverage using my Gordon Freeman special wedged under the rear tyre so I could easily pull the hooked end of the crowbar and the spring neatly stretched and popped off.
7. Same trick to restore the springs after clean-up.

https://i.imgur.com/VAr9Skuh.jpg

Once I’d removed the springs I had to use a fair bit of force to drive the rusted pivot shaft out of the stand. I used a small socket and extension bar that was thin enough and hammered the shaft out with a big club hammer. It got to a point where it just wouldn’t move any further so I coated it with Plusgas and hammered it back in. Then I was able to hammer it back out all the way.

I gave the shaft a good rub down with wet and dry followed by a polish up with Autosol then re-assembled everything with lashings of grease.

I didn’t need to fuck around with removing exhausts because I wasn’t removing the stand to clean or paint it. I only needed to get it moving smoothly again.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 07 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Those forks look really good.

Serendipity wrote:

In this case I tried doing it all myself so I looked around for chemical paint stripper that still contained the excellent, but now banned dichloromethane. It used to be in Nitromors, but they dropped it from the ingredients a few years ago. I found a product called Starchem Synstryp which gets good write-ups and procured some. As it’s meant for professional use you can only get it in 5 litre bottles for about £25…


It does work. But can take a few uses and some scraping. It is also quite thick and not something you can just soak parts in, and goes off after a while.

But it is nasty stuff and will go through gloves (the blue nitrile gloves you are using will offer pretty much zero protection from it).

All the best

Katy
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 09 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put standard bars back on the Enfield, the Triumph Scrambler jobbies were too wide/tall.
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Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 09 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got clutch adjusted, still won't pull above 4K and given the sputtering when you try to rev it with clutch in or neutral, I reckon the carb is blocked. Did have a quick go at getting it off, but the fuel tap doesn't actually shut off it seems.

Will pull it tomorrow if the rain holds off, clean the float bowl and jets out with some brake cleaner. New jubilee clips

On the plus side it's far, far more comfortable than the stupid wanabee apehangers, but I still despise forward controls.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 10 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Failed miserably to get the carb off for cleaning. Figured it out now, but it'll have to wait. Should do for work and back until I can sort it next weekend.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 10 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked over the voltmeter connections and verified the readings with a multimeter. Then checked and cleaned the reg rec connections and wiring. Couldn't find anything that looked dodgy, so I'll just have to see what the voltage does on the way to work tomorrow. Neutral
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 11 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fz6 mot'd clean sheet apart from missing bush in clutch lever (been missing for 2 years and doesn't affect anything)

Was even described as 'clean' by the mot guy despite being crashed and self repaired Laughing
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 6 years, 200 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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