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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 03 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prepped it for its first MOT. 2 blown sidelight bulbs replaced, sticky front brake light switch freed up.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 03 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stator replacement.

Pull fairing, heat flap, off, clean everything up a bit and and spot missing bolts...
https://i.imgur.com/JgEjeSDl.jpg

that means one thing...
https://i.imgur.com/NqLHav1l.jpg

Yup, a previous owner snapped it.
https://i.imgur.com/MdDe4iil.jpg

Can't route fucking cables either. That's meant to be over the clutch cylinder/sprocket cover.
https://i.imgur.com/J5yDjC2l.jpg

Everything else looks clean though.
https://i.imgur.com/4flc8lgl.jpg

All bolts copper greased when I put it back together.

Also chucked a new Motobatt and a finned reg/rec on it. Bypassed the Stator-->R/R wiring which is mean to be a weak spot. Once I figure the DC output's spade size, I'll ditch the plug as well.
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 03 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Following the nice ride-out yesterday, got cracking on a couple of things which came to light during the return home.

First - the indicators. The prolonged session, on the way home, of an indicated 80 on the clock up the A34, set off a problem of slight appearance in the bright ind w/l during left selection. Found that an earth bullet had come almost out of its connector body in the headlamp area. Tightened the grip of the connector and pushed the bullet back home.

Second - noticed when I got home that the entire foot of the side stand had disappeared. I knew there was a bit of rust down there but it had obviously eaten right through. Happily, there was enough left on the bottom of the arm to drill and tap for an M8 thread and I screwed a nice 4mm steel plate on it.
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 03 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

recman wrote:
Which make/model tyres did you stick to the Triple?
And where'd you get the levers?

Michelin Road 5s. I was going to go for PR2s, as i know and trust them, then PR3s as you recommended them, but i couldn't find anywhere that had both a good price, and in stock, so i thought i'd try out the R5s instead. Still getting used to the feel of them as they're very different to the Dunlops.

Levers were off of the ebay. Bit of a gamble, being so cheap, but as the quality was good i had no worries about fitting them.
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GT200Fan79
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 03 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

This spans more than just "today" but i actually got the machining finished today.

I've wanted to convert the YR5 to o-ring seals on the head / barrel joint since i first had it tuned, however machining the heads was difficult as the plug thread isn't properly concentric with the centre of the head. As a compromise i had the barrels machined flat on the top to eliminate the recess for the standard (shit) copper ring type head gasket. This allowed me to use the full face RD400 type head gasket and this is how i've run it since. However RD400 head gaskets are expensive (£7 each) and also shit, proven by the need to borrow some tools of our landlord while in the Isle of Man last week to nip the heads up despite doing them prior to the trip.

Prior to my (otherwise successful) trip to the Classic / Manx i had began work on some tooling to sort the two issues.

1) A jig to aid drilling the barrel and head so they can be dowled together. The standard set up offers a lot of slop when assembled, so it's easy to bolt the head down off centre with the barrel. Not a problem with the standard massive squish clearance but becomes an issue when trying to achieve a racy squish without the piston clipping the head. Fiddling around i found that M8 cap screw heads are a snug fit into the wider parts of the stud paths on the barrel and head. The following photos explain the jig better than my bs does.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1876/44454449521_ab08326975_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1897/29516301507_cca2afce21_b.jpg

Wedge the jig into the stud holes then use the pilot holes to direct a 3mm drill to make two holes to take 3mm roll pins. Simple but effective and can easily be reproduced if I scrap a barrel or head in future.

I had known the squish was a bit on the large side and also not 100% identical between each cylinder. Once i'd got back from the Island i stripped the top end and measured it properly, one side was about 1.2mm and the other closer to 1.5mm, not great for power and efficiency. Minus the head gasket this gave approx 0.8mm and 1.0mm. As i didn't have easy access to the milling machine / willing participant who attempted the job last time but did have access to a lathe at work i conconcted a plan to manufacture a bespoke faceplate which would allow us to machine the barrels to a correct length as well as create an o-ring groove. Basically a water cut tooling plate disc with a central hole turned to be a snug fit on the bottom of the liner and then 4 x m8 holes on the same pitch as the cylinder studs so the barrel can be bolted securely in place. Once again pictures explain it best.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1896/43736814534_1678096206_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1885/42645641410_3102e395b3_b.jpg

I actually have four barrels with the same tune on them, i used the one which gave 0.8mm squish as my datum for machining the other three and then added the o-ring groove to eliminate the need for expensive and heavy copper gaskets going forward.

The end result -

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1868/42645523610_4fd6abccac_b.jpg

I'll obviously double check the squish on rebuild but i think this will give me about 0.9 - 1.0mm with a 0.75mm base gasket, which should give a useful power increase as well as helping the engine run cooler, although it will mean avoiding normal unleaded unless absolutely stuck.
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recman
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 03 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Hammers wrote:
recman wrote:
Which make/model tyres did you stick to the Triple?
And where'd you get the levers?

Michelin Road 5s. I was going to go for PR2s, as i know and trust them, then PR3s as you recommended them, but i couldn't find anywhere that had both a good price, and in stock, so i thought i'd try out the R5s instead. Still getting used to the feel of them as they're very different to the Dunlops.

Levers were off of the ebay. Bit of a gamble, being so cheap, but as the quality was good i had no worries about fitting them.


I've not seen the PR5s before, they look different, almost agricultural. I like different.
Are they noisey at all?

The levers look reasonable, I know there are quite a few on here have fitted levers of the same price range with no issues so you should be good.
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 04 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

recman wrote:
I've not seen the PR5s before, they look different, almost agricultural. I like different.
Are they noisey at all?

Not especially, not that i've noticed anyway. I actually prefer the look of the PR2s, look wider, lots more baldiness and long snakey lines Smile Still, rather have the grip than the looks.

Quote:
The levers look reasonable, I know there are quite a few on here have fitted levers of the same price range with no issues so you should be good.

That's reassuring, thanks! Surprising that they can make them so well for the money, and i would say if they fail i'll let you know, but...
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 04 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

recman wrote:


I've not seen the PR5s before, they look different, almost agricultural. I like different.
Are they noisey at all?


I don't know any tyres that are noisier than an exhaust at 8000 rpm and 100 mph wind blast. Thumbs Up
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 05 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Worked out what spacers and bolts I need for Project stop yer' bastard.

Before

https://i.imgur.com/DLIODdb.jpg

After.

https://i.imgur.com/uGjWTbp.jpg

Need to buy 10mm spacers and M10 x 70 bolts.
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bacon
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 05 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Ktech goodies are in those forks? Carts or just revalve kit?

Any good?
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 06 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bacon wrote:
What Ktech goodies are in those forks? Carts or just revalve kit?

Any good?


Revalve kit and springs.

It's showed how crap the back end is now. Hence the Ohlins.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 06 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took 28k mile Striple for MOT. Passed with no advisories.

I always clean my bikes before an MOT which got me wondering.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 16 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided I'd take a look at the EXUP valve on the R1, not having serviced it in years. Turns out it was in good order, cable tension good, not too dirty. However the bolts were seized on the cover and the cable mounting bracket. I've snapped the head off of one (although "snapped" is the wrong word, it twisted off like wax) and rounded two more. I wish I'd left it alone now but I'm chasing up a stalling issue.[/quote]

Last edited by Kawasaki Jimbo on 21:06 - 24 Sep 2018; edited 2 times in total
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 17 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

New tube for the front wheel, in time for tomorrow morning's MOT Smile
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Currently : Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition, 28 of 200
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polished my Kawasaki to within an inch of its life.
I even got underneath and cleaned it from another angle.
Quite dirty considering how little use it gets.
Checked it all over whilst cleaning, all seems good Thumbs Up

Cleaned the Hyosung and the Honley and gave them a check over also, all appears to be good there as well.
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jakebrownbass
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked it all off this morning. Loaded it in the van.

Got to the centre first thing, unlodaded it. Checked over again and then the microswitch for the brake light refused to work.

Start to panic. Mechanic gets there, tells me not to worry.

Text an hour later and it's all been sorted for the price of the MOT Smile

Happy days.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Polished my Kawasaki to within an inch of its life.
I even got underneath and cleaned it from another angle.
Quite dirty considering how little use it gets.
Checked it all over whilst cleaning, all seems good.


Doesn't rhyme.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
pepperami wrote:
Polished my Kawasaki to within an inch of its life. I told no one, not even the wife.
I even got underneath and cleaned it from another angle whilst wearing no pants, it was quite a dangle.
Quite dirty considering how little use it gets, All muddy and sweats.
Checked it all over whilst cleaning, all seems good and is great in my neighbourhood .


Doesn't rhyme.


I tried Thumbs Up
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 22 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the unthinkable today, had a new chain put on my CBF, with the old sprockets.....also new rear pads, trying cheapo Brenta pads for a giggle.
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recman
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 22 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Courier265 wrote:
Did the unthinkable today, had a new chain put on my CBF, with the old sprockets.....also new rear pads, trying cheapo Brenta pads for a giggle.


Are the old sprockets ok?
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 23 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

recman wrote:
Courier265 wrote:
Did the unthinkable today, had a new chain put on my CBF, with the old sprockets.....also new rear pads, trying cheapo Brenta pads for a giggle.


Are the old sprockets ok?


Yep, my mechanic checked and he was happy just to replace the chain.
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GT200Fan79
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 23 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed the rear BT45 on the YR5 as it was squared off and down to about 1.5mm. I forgot how much of an utter cunt they are. First tubed tyre where Iíve had to break the bead with a vice. Also showed up how shit three of my four tyre levers are. Only nipped the tube once which was a surprise. Mental note to take the bastard thing to a shop next time.
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waffles
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 23 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as it isnít too cold in the garage I am going to apply a top yoke protector to the gixer and replace the one on the fuel cap. I have some R&G pads to go on the heel plates on the grom as they are starting to look really scuffed up.

Tarty stuff today.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 23 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today, I ordered a new spark plug and primary chain. The old one seems to be eating the clutch cover.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 23 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yesterday and today - More wiring shenanigans on the VFR.

Ripped out all previous "fixes" back to the original loom. Replaced Stator>R/R and R/R>Loom with some chunky 60A cable. Proper connectors crimped (not squashed on). Re-fitted R/R using thermal paste. Tidied and routed all cables properly. Battery seems to hold voltage well enough if you give it a run, but does not charge sufficiently on the short run to work.
Replaced starter solenoid, which was a little crispy.
Sorted the negative feed out for the gear indicator it came fitted with, but it seems to need programming. There's a distinct chance I'll not bother with that.
Discovered one of the brake bulbs has blown - LED ones ordered.
Debated adding some small spots with winter coming.
Chain lube, moved eccentric to keep hub free, but it didn't need it.

125 -
Chain lube and tension.
Fitted a KMX125 fuel tap.
Rust spots wire brushed, had rust-killer applied and then painted.
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