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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 23:26 - 10 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuck an engine casing protector back on.
The old glue (bathroom silicone) was starting to fail so I redid it.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 11 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Modified the wiring for heated gloves last night. I had bodged an adjustable step down regulator, but for now its adequate to have just an on/off switch, so removed it. While 14v does get instant toasty, which is quite nice, a constant 70-80% would be more comfortable.

Looking for suggestions for a multi channel PWM/heating controller that is both cheap and easy to encapsulate in a weather/bike proof package.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 11 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Treated it to a full titanium yoshi system.
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kawashima
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PostPosted: 14:55 - 13 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sold mine last October. I'm bike-less until my neck gets better.
I can drive only my car now. Even riding my bicycles worsen my neck.
Disk shrunk due to my long bad habbit of cracking my neck.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 13 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

kawashima wrote:
Disk shrunk due to my long bad habbit of cracking my neck.

Neutral I've had neck issues although that's from back problems and having to sleep on my back, which gives me a sore neck. Sometimes shoulder checks are painful and it generally just leaves you fairly static on the bike, which obviously isn't great. Although driving aggravates it as well, maybe more urban driving as you tend to lean forward when pulling out of junctions etc..
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NJD
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PostPosted: 23:41 - 15 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last night: started the bike for the return ride and noticed some light tapping on the engine, but it caused me no bother so I didn't think about it.

This morning: Entirely forgot about the above, and started the bike for it to pop (backfire?) and have a weird feeling through the throttle on start up. Noticed the spark plug cap shaking and then noticed the ring on the spark plug shaking: spark plug had vibrated loose.

Quick nip up and I'm on my way as normal. Seems there's more vibes than I realise on this bike; not an issue, but interesting.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 23:44 - 15 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Confused Didn't Bodytard have that same issue when he ended up replacing the engine?
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 16 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replaced a spark plug with an even older one that still worked. Embarassed

Silly me, I'd replaced the spark plugs about 8000 miles ago (or more), had taken them out and cleaned and regapped them only once during that time, then found (a few days ago) a strange intermittent running-on-3-cylinders problem that I finally nailed today. One spark plug had stopped firing because it was completely carburised because of a poor mixture setting (rich rich rich) and lots of very short journeys recently... Nobody's fault but mine. I mean, I did a perfect tune-up, balanced the carbs, cleaned and reset everything to factory spec but it was such a long time ago and I took everything for granted since then since the bike was always running and never out of action for more than a fortnight....

Reset mixture screw to Haynes spec (which was way out because of internet lore), cleaned pilot jet on the carb over the cold cylinder, and the enrichment circuit (made no difference). Then put an old spark plug in... Tested it and went for a proper thrash, and it worked a treat. New spark plugs ordered and will collect tomorrow evening, gap then fit.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 08:38 - 16 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replaced an indicator bulb because I broke the old one 'checking it'.
Don't mess on if it's not needed!
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NutsyUk
Nearly there...



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PostPosted: 12:28 - 17 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

(direct reply to the topic question)
Dropped it, while coming out of a junction hitting a little patch ice, Ive given the left side a nice scratched up motif... With a side of bent gear peddle...
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NJD
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 17 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sister Sledge wrote:
Don't mess on if it's not needed!


Or just read a workshop manual (if available) before fiddling to ensure you don't miss anything. My dash bulbs, brake light bulb and headlight all undo in three various ways.

..

Today I:

Arrow Cleaned all three calipers four days after last doing them thanks to yesterday's massive rain downfall covering everything in road salt, and adjusted the brake light.

Arrow Discovered one of the calipers has a stiffer than I'd like piston so will need stripping as soon as it warms up, and will hope I don't die before that time.

Arrow Wiped a bunch of road salt off the bike, and probably missed a load in the process.

.. and there's some more to do. The weather hasn't even been that bad but our road salt must be endlessly corrosive. Every winter I say I do nothing but clean the calipers and this years no different. No wonder I go through the routine of stripping and rebuilding them once a year. You'd need a workshop on the go if you did massive mileage at this time of year.

Question: What tool will push a stiff brake piston back into the body of the caliper? A G-Clamp, and if so what size is best (2 inch etc)?

I probably should have just lubed it with brake fluid or red rubber grease but spent an age pushing it in by hand, and yes I'm aware it should just slide into the caliper with ease. Just so I know for future use, and yes I have a caliper wind out tool but they're useless for pushing pistons back in.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:

Question: What tool will push a stiff brake piston back into the body of the caliper? A G-Clamp, and if so what size is best (2 inch etc)?

I probably should have just lubed it with brake fluid or red rubber grease but spent an age pushing it in by hand, and yes I'm aware it should just slide into the caliper with ease. Just so I know for future use, and yes I have a caliper wind out tool but they're useless for pushing pistons back in.


Correct, it should push in by hand, but it won't be overly easy as you're shifting fluid in the reverse, a bit like using a lever at the wrong end. I just use a bit of wood to protect the pistons, or use the old brake pads, and lever apart with a large flat blade screwdriver.

If they're not sticking or dragging the pads in use then you're ok.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Correct, it should push in by hand, but it won't be overly easy as you're shifting fluid in the reverse, a bit like using a lever at the wrong end. I just use a bit of wood to protect the pistons, or use the old brake pads, and lever apart with a large flat blade screwdriver.

If they're not sticking or dragging the pads in use then you're ok.


They'll need rebuilding at first chance, but I suspect its because the piston hasn't been out beyond a certain length for a while. Most probably the lube has worn away and its hard to push back in because its dry. The seals are perfectly fine, as is the piston outer surface. Problem only occurred because I pumped it out against both brake pads (enough distance to clean a good portion of the outside of the piston but not enough for fluid to leak and pressure to be lost) for the first time in a while.

Will keep an eye on disc heat after rides for near future.

Just the weather preventing me from being interested in doing it, sods law.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not done anything myself but had first pics of new pipes back from Mick Abbey.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7873/32928527758_3997f3379c_h.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7805/31862682667_b50c32630a_h.jpg

Unfortunately no dyno figures as yet as the bike has developed some sort of ignition fault and won't run for more than 30 seconds at a time Evil or Very Mad hopefully it's just a plug / plug cap or wiring fault and nothing more sinister.

Basically longer headers (for midrange drive) and narrower cones tucked closer to the frame rails (for ground clearance on track) plus silly long cans (to appease circuit noise testing).
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zark
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

took sprocket cover off as didn't feel quite right when riding...

found sprocket nut and washer missing. Shocked

FFS... 2nd one i've lost in as many years! at least i don't need to buy an impact gun to get them off!

found a new kit i had laying around and refitted with a good splodge of threadlock and torqued up. New washer bent over - again...! Now ordered 3 more off wemoto as they're cheap at the mo. Welding the bugger on seems like a good idea now!

Ran it up warm up and change the oil and noticed exhaust coming out both ends of the (original) end can. Would a high temp silicon bodge work for a while? Don't know how long i'm keeping this one due to the ULEZ for pre 07 bikes.

(FZS600 - 2003 on 72k miles)
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Tankie
Crazy Courier



Joined: 24 Feb 2017
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes use Silicone to seal the end can
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Technically this happened on Saturday, but did this to my ER-5;

- washed and re-applied ACF50 (using the little pump bottle filled from a bulk container this time - works really well actually)
- Dealt with intermittent rear light (I think it was the bulb itself; the contacts were quite small compared with a spare bulb I had so swapped them over - all seems good now)
- Finally tightened up the "auto folding" right mirror so I can go above 50mph now without losing the use of that mirror (ended up taking the arm off and adapting the locking mechanism to work properly)

Here's a pic of the bike "bedding in" the ACF50 that got on the headers Laughing
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I did ride out in that ffffrreeezing cold to take the Chinese pos for it’s MOT.
It passed with no advisory’s Smile Thumbs Up

While I was at teh’ shop, a rep from MCN was there and we had a bit of a chat.
Not that it will make a jot of difference, but I told him I’m bored of the newest superbike shoot outs and would prefer something a little more diverse like a revue of bikes that are not mainstream ie CCM, Sherco, Jawa and the like.
So if the next MCN is a Chinese bike special, you can blame me Laughing
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Tierbirdy
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Late christmas present to myself, got a set of Shad panniers & mounts for them.

https://i.imgur.com/UPxS2Gv.jpg

I was hoping to colour match the mid section of the panniers to the bike, but actually all black with the faux carbon highlight suits it nicely too I think.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parked up at work and noticed a shiny in my rear. Came back at lunch and put a string plug in. Sods law the tire has about 3000 miles left so its not really worth the effort to remove and fix properly when I have a new pr5 waiting, zo that might get swappec early. I dont like using strings more than a month and much less so with the chance of sub zero conditions.
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Serendipity
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replaced front sprocket on the CBF1000.

I started to notice light clicks from the rear of the bike when accelerating. I've had this on both my old CBR6 and once before on the CBF1000. In those cases I replaced the whole chain and sprockets as a set. However this time I was convinced the chain had loads of life left. I run a Scottoiler on a relatively generous setting and almost never need to adjust the chain. I pretty much only adjust it if I remove the rear wheel for tyres or bearings.

The noises got steadily worse over a few weeks until I started having uncomfortable fantasies about snapping chains and smashed crankcases.

The rear sprocket was looking healthy so I popped off the front sprocket cover and found the front sprocket was badly worn. This is definitely what was causing the noise. I think it was so hooked it was catching the chain as it exited on the lower run.

Old vs new

https://i.imgur.com/xk8VgFuh.jpg

Picked up a new JT sprocket. The one that turned up was the rubber damped type, but I'm pretty sure that's the one I removed the last time. The last kit I put on only had the solid sprocket.

I just loosened the rear axle and pushed the wheel forward a little to release chain tension then swapped them over. Torqued everything back up to spec and adjusted and aligned the rear wheel.

Immediate difference. No noise and much less vibration, which to be honest I hadn't attributed to the final drive.

Then I read the Haynes manual and front sprocket check and replacement if worn is listed in the regular maintenance. So there you go. I should learn to RTFM.

The sprocket had done over 36,600 miles although could have done with replacing about 1000 miles ago. We'll see if the chain outlives the bike.

Chain oilers. They do a decent job. Thumbs Up
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FretGrinder
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serendipity wrote:
Replaced front sprocket on the CBF1000.

I started to notice light clicks from the rear of the bike when accelerating. I've had this on both my old CBR6 and once before on the CBF1000. In those cases I replaced the whole chain and sprockets as a set. However this time I was convinced the chain had loads of life left. I run a Scottoiler on a relatively generous setting and almost never need to adjust the chain. I pretty much only adjust it if I remove the rear wheel for tyres or bearings.

The noises got steadily worse over a few weeks until I started having uncomfortable fantasies about snapping chains and smashed crankcases.

The rear sprocket was looking healthy so I popped off the front sprocket cover and found the front sprocket was badly worn. This is definitely what was causing the noise. I think it was so hooked it was catching the chain as it exited on the lower run.

Old vs new

https://i.imgur.com/xk8VgFuh.jpg

Picked up a new JT sprocket. The one that turned up was the rubber damped type, but I'm pretty sure that's the one I removed the last time. The last kit I put on only had the solid sprocket.

I just loosened the rear axle and pushed the wheel forward a little to release chain tension then swapped them over. Torqued everything back up to spec and adjusted and aligned the rear wheel.

Immediate difference. No noise and much less vibration, which to be honest I hadn't attributed to the final drive.

Then I read the Haynes manual and front sprocket check and replacement if worn is listed in the regular maintenance. So there you go. I should learn to RTFM.

The sprocket had done over 36,600 miles although could have done with replacing about 1000 miles ago. We'll see if the chain outlives the bike.

Chain oilers. They do a decent job. Thumbs Up


Funnily enough I had the same clicking sounds on my CBF 1000 when the chain and sprockets were in a worn condition, I ran a scottoiler too and found around 25k was around the limit for me.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serendipity wrote:
I read the Haynes manual and front sprocket check and replacement if worn is listed in the regular maintenance. So there you go. I should learn to RTFM.

Does the manual say anything about replacing both sprockets at the same time?
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy an extra front for each two chainsets, swap it a bit early and the whole lot will last a lot longer.
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

quick chain lube yesterday

spent ages looking for front sprocket cover after id done, gave up

today i remembered I only removed one bolt and rotated it out of the way and it is still on the bike Embarassed
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