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NJD
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
What's the point of having braided pipes if the braiding is broken?


From what I've just read, and better understood, the braiding and outer sleeve are just better protection than rubber (better build quality also, of course). As long as the inner hose holds its integrity when fitted then why not?

Rubber hoses on a '99 bike, if these work then no doubt they'd offer better performance than something I've no idea is how old. £22 then why not?
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
What's the point of having braided pipes if the braiding is broken?


From what I've just read, and better understood, the braiding and outer sleeve are just better protection than rubber (better build quality also, of course). As long as the inner hose holds its integrity when fitted then why not?

Rubber hoses on a '99 bike, if these work then no doubt they'd offer better performance than something I've no idea is how old. £22 then why not?
the whole point of the braiding is to prevent expansion of the inner core.

If the braiding is broken it will expand and as it's designed to be fully surrounded by braiding it will feel more spongy than the equivalent rubber pipe.
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NJD
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Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
If the braiding is broken it will expand and as it's designed to be fully surrounded by braiding it will feel more spongy than the equivalent rubber pipe.


Interesting, thanks for the knowledge.

Worse case scenario I end up re-fitting standard hoses if performance isn't to standard I've experienced in the past, or would expect.

Appreciate the help. Thumbs Up
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be sending those back for a refund pronto unless that damage was advertised.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
Purchased some cheap used braided brake lines (front and rear) for the yet to arrive bike and discovered some damage on one of the front lines.

Set up a makeshift platform to test if there was a leak. Idea being I'd pour an awful lot of used brake fluid into the tear from the outside and if any appeared to be coming from the slot in the banjo part that the bolt attaches to (where fluid should come out from normally) I'd consider it fubar, but none did (idea being gravity and an awful lot of fluid would force any getting into the hose from outside downwards).

Will test on bike eventually, and if it holds pressure overnight then should be good to run (after being taped over / covered up to prevent further damage, of course).

Usually it looks like the type of part that I'd be wide eyed about, but for now it looks like nothing more than a tear in the outer sleve.

Torn between £22 was a bargain for a full set (F/R) and people really should learn what their selling (eBay Laughing ).

https://i.postimg.cc/MGRyKMkk/20200802-131052.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/XJkddR7Q/20200802-131100.jpg


Your test methodology wont tell you anything. You will now have brake fluid under the outer plastic sheave waiting to drip everywhere, and looking like shit. Good luck getting it clean, and convincing a mot that it doesnt leak.
Testing under hydrualic pressure is required. You could connect it up to a master, but Id suggest blanking off the banjo with a solid bolt and nut. You will achive higher testing pressures with no pistons to move and a low fluid volume.

As to the damage, its minor. it has worn through some braid, so Id suggest the failure mode being, sharp ends rubbing or puncturing the inner core. It looks like the damage wont cause any change to feel. You could bend the sharp braids out and wrap the area with silicone self amalgamating tape, or heatshrink. It will always look shit.

Brake lines are not expensive, just get new ones.

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
I'd be sending those back for a refund pronto unless that damage was advertised.


Too late, Id say. Soaking a part in brake fluid is a good reason to reject a return.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I oiled my tyres to increase grip, my Raceteks are apparently oil resistant.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rode off with the chain still locked round the back wheel.

Snapped off half of the bracket from the back fender but no apparent major damage - just a few flakes of paint.

Brick Wall
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NJD
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Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
I'd be sending those back for a refund pronto unless that damage was advertised.


It wasn't, but given that the refund window under eBay's money back guarantee is 30 days from the date of purchase I should have the bike to hand and know if their any good when fitted, and full of fluid, or not before that window expires so in the short term have nothing to loose by hanging onto them.

Reminds me of the welded sprocket incident. What is it about Fazer's and bodges?

Inb4 "at roadside, wut do?" Laughing
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 02 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ragged the fuck out of it. Cool
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recman
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 03 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
Ragged the fuck out of it. Cool


I put mine through its paces too, just to see if everything had stayed secure and adjusted properly after refitting the wheels.
It had. Thumbs Up
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 03 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
Ragged the fuck out of it. Cool


Amen to that brother, skinned the right hand side of the rear on the TL
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 03 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got round to replacing a couple of seals on the front brake that were a bit sticky.

Tool of the day, brake piston slide hammer. No pissing about with that.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20200803-wa0007.jpeg
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 03 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Finally got round to replacing a couple of seals on the front brake that were a bit sticky.

Tool of the day, brake piston slide hammer. No pissing about with that.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20200803-wa0007.jpeg



Pleased you got the slide hammer over the pliers type. Much better tool.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 03 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Tool of the day, brake piston slide hammer. No pissing about with that.


Keep an eye on the thread (both external and internal) of the tool where you screw the handle on and tighten it up (allowing the piston inside the piston to expand). I had to re-cut mine a little recently, and I've only used it a handful of times since I've had it (if that). Still, decent for the D.I.Y work.

I had the bit you put inside a piston slip and damage a brake piston the once, not sure if the above was why.

Good bit of kit. hth. Thumbs Up
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 04 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed the clutch springs on my MZ ETZ 251 for the 2nd time.

First time I took the clutch unit off and inspected all I needed to- and then replaced the springs with new Indian ones. Clutch still slipping after a test ride-

So, with the clutch still on the taper I put in some 'hungarian' ones - closest to OEM.

Much much better- I think the slip has gone. But I have decided that I will use a mineral oil next time.

I will now be throwing those indian ones in the bin I think.
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Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k. , 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k
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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 04 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started to wire up a new rec/reg on teh GT250 - standard gear is just a rectifier so the battery gets hit with 12-30 V or more..
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Campbell SOUP
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 27 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 04 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally finished up the valve timing jobby I started nearly a month ago on the F4i. Took the bike out for a ride over the weekend with a couple mates and all was great.

Rode to work yesterday. On the way home smoke starts coming out from under the tank while waiting at a red light. Had a look today and found oil leaking from the water pump where it mounts to the engine.

O-rings ordered, hopefully I'll have them done by the weekend! Might as well flush the coolant while I'm at it, after 50k miles and 18 years it'll probably benefit from it.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may be next on my to do list. Ive had a slight coolant leak somewhere in the area, unsure if its a hose or gasket.

Got subframe, undertray, tail fairing all reassembled. Still waiting for brake seals Mad

Started paint prep for nose fairing.
https://i.postimg.cc/qM2tWDg4/IMG-20200804-201902.jpg

I had to redo the top screen mounts as last time put away while still soft and it bent
https://i.postimg.cc/x1YkQGbH/IMG-20200804-201922.jpg

Should have it painted this week.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fisty wrote:
Courier265 wrote:


That rack isn't going to last long with that box on, I give it 2 months.




It's still there a year and 4000 miles later, heaviest load was 12 cand of stella and take away for 4.

No bends, snaps or cracks.
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recman
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bade a fond farewell to two old friends. Crying or Very sad


https://i.postimg.cc/3NxM0ZfV/20200805-090929.jpg

...and said hello to a couple of new ones.


https://i.postimg.cc/C167JHLW/20200805-124819.jpg



https://i.postimg.cc/KzNH4nfQ/20200805-124836.jpg
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

CBR, fixed the horn, one connector had slipped off. Nice easy fix for the pending MOT.

RC8, set suspension to comfort, it's sharp as fook but unforgiving, I'll get better traction on normal roads this way.

Also made a phone mount from an old electric sofa brace bar and bike innertube, mainly for when you want satnav. It's mounted at the top of the screen so in the best position, you don't normally get that with purchased mounts.

Was intended to be a mockup proof of concept, but worked so well, and is disguised enough by sliding the innertube over it that it can stay on for now.
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arry
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 06 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried - and failed - to fit a new rear rack to the R9T; it's bloody miles out of fitment:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50194989848_f6bf4e5e54_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50194989538_69200d77d6_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50195797477_f11e10fd90_b.jpg


Oh, and that's some serious casting defect on one of the longer bolts they've given me to fit it with Rolling Eyes


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50195535871_ede2e69060_b.jpg



Merde. I could be in a bucket of boobs for all this week and get lucky if I sucked only my thumb.
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recman
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Joined: 26 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 06 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Tried - and failed - to fit a new rear rack to the R9T; it's bloody miles out of fitment:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50194989848_f6bf4e5e54_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50194989538_69200d77d6_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50195797477_f11e10fd90_b.jpg


Oh, and that's some serious casting defect on one of the longer bolts they've given me to fit it with Rolling Eyes


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50195535871_ede2e69060_b.jpg



Merde. I could be in a bucket of boobs for all this week and get lucky if I sucked only my thumb.


Bend it.
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arry
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 06 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

recman wrote:

Bend it.


Have in the end. Took a serious amount of persuasion though.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 06 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

recman wrote:


Did you add the manufacturers recommended level of oil?
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