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Scootaloo |
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Scootaloo Could Be A Chat Bot
Joined: 09 Dec 2011 Karma :
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Posted: 15:11 - 19 Apr 2013 Post subject: Could more CC on the Honda CG = Better MPG??? |
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Hello All
Soon I am potentially about to come into possession of a Brazil model 1989 CG 125cc (Kick start & drum brakes) and a lot of work has been done to it recently and it is currently doing roughly 125MPG - Yay
Now I have been doing a lot of research into good MPG bikes recently, as I'm sick of putting in £10 and only getting a day or two run time from it..
first choice was the C90 but there is a lot of duel lane A roads around my area so I would like something that can cruise at 55-60 (to match traffic) which is a shame as I hear they can pull 150-200 MPG!!
So, after much research I stumbled across the Honda Unicorn (A 150cc CBF) which can do around 140-160 MPG!! and with enough poke to handle 60+ roads... Unfortunately this too impracticable as it's a asia specific model, thus consumables and parts are really hard to find... shame really as it would looking to be the ideal bike for me..
Thus I returned to a bike I was faced with when going for my CBT test back in 2011 - The Honda CG 125cc
Whilst looking on-line I couldn't help but notice there are various 150cc replacements available, here is an example of one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cylinder-Big-Bore-62mm-kit-Honda-CG150cc-ATV-Dirt-Bike-/170443817114?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27af3e409a
I would say I cruse at 40-55 MPH on average..
My question to those experienced mechanics out there is, what would fitting this do for me?
Sweet fuck all would be the typical response I Imagen.. but surely adding 25cc should do something??
Slightly better MPG? Maybe 2 BHP or 3?
Then a more free flowing air filter + removing the rear passenger seat tail and reducing overall weight, should be a considerably different bike. Obviously not much, but anything to make it a bit more urban road capable..
I do love those bike's to be honest.. not sure why.. just find the Cadillac-soft suspension and having to rag every single gear to go anywhere just the most fun ever... even more so than the CBF500... although I will miss being able to race sportier cars around... but that's not a good thing anyway from a licence perspective!
Thanks! ____________________ (CBF125 - 09) (CBF125 - 11) (CB-1 - 89) (CBF500 - 06) (Push Bike) (CB-1 - 90) (XL125 - 01) (VF500 - 83) (GPZ500 - 94) (GPZ500 - 95) (GPZ500 - 87) (XV535 - 94) (XV535 - 94) (GPZ500 - 87) |
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P. Red Rocket
Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :
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Scootaloo |
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Scootaloo Could Be A Chat Bot
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Scootaloo |
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Shinigami |
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Shinigami World Chat Champion
Joined: 14 Feb 2012 Karma :
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Posted: 15:25 - 19 Apr 2013 Post subject: |
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I wouldn't bother, 100mpg is already high, just spare a thought for us who have to visit the petrol station much more often eg, hornet owners
I get between 42 & 46 mpg ____________________ Current: Honda City Fly CLR125 2003 Honda CB600F Hornet 2008 Yamaha FZ6 S2 + 1991 Kawasaki GPZ500
"Once you realize what a joke everything is, being the Comedian is the only thing that makes sense. |
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P. Red Rocket
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Scootaloo |
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Shinigami |
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Shinigami World Chat Champion
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Scootaloo |
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Pete. |
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Pete. Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :
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Posted: 16:18 - 19 Apr 2013 Post subject: |
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If you want better MPG - fit a tall screen. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 16:31 - 19 Apr 2013 Post subject: |
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From Newtonian defanitions: Power is Rate of Energy Transfer.
Trying to cut a lot of middle order scientific proof to the bone...
The energy in question is your petrol, and MPG the rate you burn it... there-for MPG is an expression of power... 'input'.
The out-put... is getting from A to B.... or 'Work-Done' a force x distance...... except the force your fuel is being used to over come is DRAG... which increases with speed, and more than directly.
Which all means... the faster you go, the more power you need, which means the more fuel you will burn to do the same 'work' getting between two points.
GO SLOW - SAVE FUEL
That is the basic conclusion.
Which means that other than muggering around with any efficiency losses..... doesn't matter whether you have a 50cc engine, or a 1000cc engine..... getting between two points, the fuel consumption is pretty much down to how fast you ride.... not how big the engine is.
And CG thrashed to its limit to keep up with traffic doing 65+ on duel carriageways, is NEVER going to return the best fuel consumption.
Boring it out, tuning it up, rarely makes a thing more efficient and more efficient...... but you have tackled a symptom not a cause....
You want to save fuel on those bits of road..... go slow.
Get in the truck stack in the inside lane and hold the 'efficiency' speed of 55, and let the world such by if they want to burn more fuel to save a few moments!
You'll save fuel, you'll fry less nerves and are a lot less likely to get into a tangle with irrassible impatient BMW drivers.
And costs NOTHING to limit your twist grip travel with a little restraint; needs not be declared to your insurance company, and such restriant is likely to reduce service requirements not increase them... its ALL win. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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stuarthouston |
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stuarthouston Trackday Trickster
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Scootaloo |
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G |
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G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :
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Pete. |
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Pete. Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :
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Posted: 17:10 - 19 Apr 2013 Post subject: |
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You'd have to do a helluva lot of miles at CG consumption-rates to off-set the cost of an LPG conversion. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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G The Voice of Reason
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stevo as b4 |
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stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jul 2003 Karma :
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Posted: 17:29 - 19 Apr 2013 Post subject: |
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You seem to be wanting to go way out of your way to buy a bike that can achieve 100-125mpg, above all other factors, except that you want to ride at 55mph on big roads.
My CG125 would certainely never do more than around 90-95mpg, and I never needed or wanted it to. They have a 200mile+ tank range which in bike terms is pretty decent. You could as other's have said try to ride efficiently and steadily, and maybe look into wind protection and aerodynamics.
Engine tuning and capacity increases are absolutely not in real terms going to help mpg, and will normally adversely affect it, but never improve it, when your talking about bikes.
I rode a CG and pretty much used it flat out, or at least 75% of it's performance most of the time. I would cruise it at 60mph sometimes, just so that the throttle was not on the stop, which was 3-5mph more at best. I still got 90mpg+ from it all the time, but never broke 100mpg as far as I can remember. I was well impressed enough at that, considering the thrashing it got.
Why do you exactly need or are deliberately seeking out a 125mpg+ vehicle? This aim is going to be at the expense of practicality, usability and safety IMO. If your looking for 150mpg, even a 50cc scooter aint going to help you, and surely you'd be better off cycling or something to save using any fuel at all. That's how daft I see the 150mpg mission and aim that your seeking is.
Bikes like car's need a certain amount of performance to be safe, and anything that can't reach around the speed limit or a bit more for the type of road your using it on, is not really suitable for todays road conditions. Buy a bike because it's something you like, something you want, or need for transport, and live with the running costs or don't bother. |
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Cyclingbiker |
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Cyclingbiker Spanner Monkey
Joined: 05 Aug 2012 Karma :
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Posted: 17:50 - 19 Apr 2013 Post subject: |
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My CG BR-J being rather old does about 85mpg and can drop as low as 75mpg if I am running above 55mph for long periods. I'd love to get closer to the claimed 100mpg at 60mph all day but I've never had close. I suspect that the newer models with less miles on would be more capable.
Bear in mind I have recently replaced a leaking fuel hose and stopped the carb from overflowing, replaced a split inlet manifold and bought a new exhaust to replace the old one which was blowing. Before all that was done it wasn't abnormal for me to get 65mpg ____________________ Honda CB500s (1999) - Honda CG 125 BR-J (1991)
Mod 1 - Passed - 12/11/12 --- Mod 2 - Passed - 26/11/12 |
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27cows |
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27cows World Chat Champion
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Sako |
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Sako World Chat Champion
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 07:19 - 20 Apr 2013 Post subject: |
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Pete. wrote: | You'd have to do a helluva lot of miles at CG consumption-rates to off-set the cost of an LPG conversion. |
Err... how much is a Mr Turbo kit? How much can a 1200 Bandit be turbo'd for with a little inginuity and know how?
There's three main things in a duel fuel conversion; an LPG tank, an evaporator to 'boil' the liquidified gas back into gas, then a carburation system.
On my rangies, both have older 'mixer' systems, rather than a gas carburettor or electronic gas injection. These tend to be the cheapest system, and essentially, the gas 'carburettor' is a gas-oven hob ring! Its a block of aluminium that is bolted between the inlet manifold and the Injection throttle body. Inside is case a donut shaped ring, and a drilling with a union on it lets gass in, and about a dozen drillings inside the ring, let it ot into teh air-stream going into the engine.
The gas gets there from the 'evaporator' which is bolted to the iner wing, and is essentially a quality street tin with a hole on the bottom to let the liquid gas in, and another on the top to let the evaporated gas out, and a water jacket around it, that's plumbed to the heater circuit of the engine's cooling system provides the heat to boil the gas. Only really 'technical' bit about it is that the evaporator chamber is pressure regulated. There's a rubber diagphram in the top of the sweetie tin, with a pin and a spring on the back, so that as gas pressure increases, so it shuts off the valve letting gas in.
Tanks? Propane gas cylinder, like you buy for a caravan, basically. Only tricky bit of the filler union for re-filling via an forecoart Autogas pump.
On cars..... using second hand bits and some injenuity, I've known people gas Land-Rovers for under £250.
I have come accross some real heath robinson DIY jobs that have been done for even less!
And some-one on here, possibly stink, commented on some-one Gassing a bike, think it was a side car, with a very crude DIY system, using a coil of copper heating pipe around the exhaust header as the evaporator, and nozzles made from copper brake pipe in the carb-mouth as the mixer, fed by a caravan propane bottle! Probably all done for under £50... of which buying the caravan gas bottle probably acounted for half!
Not so sure I would be keen to do it..... but can be done!
And gas is 90p/l instead of £1.40.... caravan refills are probably even less, as technically you are avoiding the Road-Fuel-Duty!
25l caravan gas bottle though, probably be a bit awkward to mount anywhere on a CG125... weight of the bottle probably double kerb-side weight, and err.... you'd get about 500miles between re-fills.
Its do-able.... and need not be seriousely expensive..... but I doubt it would be in any way 'pretty'!
G wrote: | Not looked into it, but I'd have thought that once you've got it (and I have looked in to the electric so I know it's the case there if you do it right) that it wouldn't be a massive amount of trouble to move it to the next bike when you came to sell - especially if it was another single for the LPG.
Shouldn't need that much stuff for a basic LPG setup for the CG I'd have thought? |
On a carburated single... there's o reason that the LPG system need have any electrics or be electronically controlled, unless you use a solenoid controlled switch-over block.
Once the engine is warmed up on petrol, basically you turn off the petrol, and switch on the gas, both via mechanical valves.
On a carburated engine, there tends to be a period of switch-over 'fluff', as carb's float bowl empties of petrol, and gas starts getting sucked in, and generally, this will send the engine over-rich as the gas will come in faster than the petrol leans out.... in a car, you might drive off before switch over, and the car will give a little grumble as you switch over... but as long as you are familiar with it, its usually not a problem, you just dont try switching over with yoru foot to the floor trying to negotiate a bust round-about or anything daft.... you wait uintil you have a bit of 'clear' driving to let it do its fluff as you drive.
On a bike like the CG which is reputed to warm up pretty fast; I think they usually reckon that fro cold, its choke, start, half choke, pause and choke off...... would take only a few extra moments to let heat get to the exhanger and switch over and let it fluff on the drive before riding.
And could be done pretty simply with a single petcock on the gas supply; you already have the petrol tap on teh tank, so you'd just flick the petrol tank to 'off' and let the float bowl start draining, and then turn on the gas..... blip throttle, make sure its sucking the cheap stuff, and go.
No electrics required... and in fact they could be an unncessery complication.
On an injected engine, you would need some electronics.... but on a simple injection system, its possible that even that need not be too convoluted. Provided that the ignition and injection isn't integrated, or even if it is, the injection controller doesn't have a back-feed loop off the injection pulse, you can litterally just 'turn off' the fuel injector! On the Lucas injection on the Rangie, it's possible to turn off the injectors by putting a switch on thier common earth wire!
But the bottom line here is, REALLY..... its a CG125!
About THE cheapest most frugal bus-fare beater ever built, apart from the C70 Cub! If THAT is too expensive to run?!?!? Buy a push-bike! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 07:52 - 20 Apr 2013 Post subject: |
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Scootaloo wrote: | I understand the general option of just going really, really easy on the throttle... I just can't be trusted really... |
In which case.... having something with MORE power available on the throttle, then, is unlikely to aid your campaign, really is it?
Scootaloo wrote: | So basically what your saying is, If I matched the speed of a CG every single time I drive, I'll return 100 MPG on the 500cc? |
Theoretically.......
And in practice? Err.... you can get close. Newbies tended to report fuel consumptions in the order of 70mpg from thier 125's to me when I instructed, and following them about on road training... I matched that from my 750, that has a book of 50.
You're into an area of efficiency though, and optimisation. My 750 is a 75bhp, 120mph bike, and following newbs about at 30-40mph and matching thier acceleration rates, and bettering thier 'progress' riding predictively, and super smoothly, not reactivelt jerking brakes or diving forks and stuff.... offset a lot of the loseses running big motor with extra cyclinders and valves sapping power and running so low down in its operating range. BUT even so just going slow and using so little throttle or fierce acceleration, got pretty much 'best' MPG.....
Applying same riding style to a CG125, and riding that as slowly and with even less acceleration would have seen even better MPG.
Its compromise and optimisation.
And after squaring off a couple of sets of rather expensive tyres trailing tiddlers on training.... I did ponder getting myself a Honda 200 Benley or CB 'Two-Fifty' or similar for the job..... hard tyres would last a life time, and even if I did need a set... well bike ought to have cost less than a pair of tyres for the 750, and new tyres for the Benley would be £50..... while the bike has a book mph of 90ish, with a top speed of about 90, so more relaxed higher-speed work, and overall, probably better 'ecconomy' than a CG, and certainly better than the 750.
Because ultimately 'ecconomy' isn't just about fuel consumption... though frequently the largest overall expenditure...
Do 12,000 miles annual travel in a year.... at 100mpg, petrol will set you back about £750... if your 100mpg bike is a fifteen year old Cg... thats possibly more than the bike cost you..... if its a brand new YBR125, £2500 from the dealers on 3-years interest free, still probably more than the credit payements!
But, the fuel cost cant be varied THAT much.... the savings are only ever going to be a fraction of the nominal annual fuel cost.. get an extra 10mpg... you'll only 'save' £75 over an entire year.
You'd keep more money in your pocket, with other economy measures, LIKE thinking twice before using the bike, and NOT jumping on it just to pup to the shops for a pint of milk, cutting doen on unnecessary travel, or if you go out for a Sunday ride each week.... clipping a few miles off it!
£75... how much is a new chain & sprocket kit? How much are brake shoes? How much can be saved SPENDING money to make sure that the bikes as efficient as possible, and doing propper regular maintenence to maximise the life of service consumables?
Said in another post on Newbie, that 'Brakes are For loosers'... when it comes to ecconomy riding, its very true. every time you brake you loose energy, energy you have paid money for buying the fuel that provided it... and more, wearing out brake pads!
Slow doen, you use less fuel, and you dont need to brake as much, as hard as often... save more fuel, PLUS brake shoes....
But also.... not braking so much or so hard, you don't load tyres so much, so they don't wear as much and last longer; forks dont dive as much, so fork seals and fork oil last longer, rear suspension doesn't have such a hard time either, and that lasts longer... and all adds up.... little bit at a time....
And ALL you need to save is £75 in a YEAR from this sort of stuff to see the same quids in your pocket as 10% better fuel consumption!
Its looking at the bigger picture.
But of course, I am being hyper-logical and answering the 'problem' you pose.... which is how to save money....
What I'm not doing is considering why else you might want a 150 big-bore kit, and what reasons you might use to kid yourself or others its a good idea, and not jst becouse you want more powah! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 49 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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