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ZZR600 what've I done now- the on going saga

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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: ZZR600 what've I done now- the on going saga Reply with quote

Today, following on from the stuck throttle, I've moved the clips that hold the carb rubbers on and had it ticking over at 8000rpm.

I then slackened off the tickover screw to the point that it dropped off the bike.

Since then I've tightened the clips that was allowing air to bypass the carbs, run the fuel line dry as I'd forgotten to turn the fuel tap back on and now the bike won't start, presumably due to lack of fuel (yes, I did turn the fuel tap back on)

So, what've I done wrong this time?


Still got to fit the speedo cable too.
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't remember if it's a vacuume tap on the zzr ....do you have on/off/reserve or on/reserve/prime? If its the latter then leave it on prime for a bit to fill the float bowls. If its a non vacuume tap then it does not matter!
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wind the idle screw up quite a bit and try that.
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glenbee
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

+for priming it

If the tap i anything like that on a Kawasaki ER5, normal and reserve only feed the carbs when the engine is running as the have a vacuum hose to the tap. If the carbs are completely empty you have to switch the tap to prime for a minute or so to fill the carb float chamber.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just looked at the fuel tap, it appears to only have the options of on, res and off, nothing that appears to say prime

Might be worth trying with it on reserve to see if that doubles as prime.
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

if its an E series it has a fuel pump, stick it 1st gear with the sidestand down , don't touch the clutch and push the starter button, it should just operate the pump (you should hear it click softly a few times then slow down and stop).
make sure that you are on the bike incase the lockouts are not working for the starter motor, this primes the pump and carbs.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's on the centre stand at the moment, so I'll need to drop it off that and make sure there's plenty of space in-front of me?

I had been trying turning it over on the assumption that might prime it.

Just realised, if I've got it on the centre stand with side stand down, doesn't matter if the lock out fails, just keep clear of the rear wheel?
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instigator
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:
It's on the centre stand at the moment, so I'll need to drop it off that and make sure there's plenty of space in-front of me?

I had been trying turning it over on the assumption that might prime it.

Just realised, if I've got it on the centre stand with side stand down, doesn't matter if the lock out fails, just keep clear of the rear wheel?


If the sidestand is down, the bike shouldn't start. It doesn't matter if it's on the centre stand, so long as the sidestand is down, what jimspeed says should work.
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea safer on centre stand mate forgot about that lol, as long as the side stand is down it should just fire the pump.
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,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm thinking if the bike is up on the centre stand then I don't risk the bike shooting across the back garden due to the microswitch failing.

Will be giving it a go.

How well will my bike charge just on tick over?
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 20 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:


How well will my bike charge just on tick over?


It won't. It'll be consuming more power than it generates.
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jeddy11
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PostPosted: 07:36 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't be true ^^ or the bike would eventually die when the battery is completely dead..

If you meter the battery when its ticking over the reading should be13 + volts meaning the battery is charging..
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluezedd wrote:
Black Sheep wrote:


How well will my bike charge just on tick over?


It won't. It'll be consuming more power than it generates.


Even on idle the bike will be charging the battery, just at a low rate.
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair enough if I'm wrong, but why can doing regular short journeys discharge a battery?

Surely if its always generating more power than it consumes even at idle then a battery should always be at 100%?

(Ignoring things like it getting discharged through sitting up, alarms etc).

Plus, theres the power consumed by turning the starter and the radiator fan to consider if you're sitting it at idle to charge it.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluezedd wrote:
Fair enough if I'm wrong, but why can doing regular short journeys discharge a battery?

Surely if its always generating more power than it consumes even at idle then a battery should always be at 100%?

(Ignoring things like it getting discharged through sitting up, alarms etc).


It won't discharge the battery. If your battery is discharging then something is wrong. I've been doing 1mile long journeys 6 times a week for a month and battery has been 100%.

With everything off inc engine battery will be about 12.20volts or something, with the engine on and lights on, the battery will read between 13 and 14 volts even at idle. probably nearer the 14v mark with lights switched off. kawasakis have good charging systems, my old gs500 was a bit funny about the battery, idle it would sit at about 12.9v with lights on, yet its still being charged.....


If your battery dies on short journeys, test your battery with a multimeter while its on the bike. Might need a new battery (or charging system looked at, regulator, or statorplate coils).
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 21 Apr 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My battery had, before taking the tank off, enough power to kick itself over a couple of times,

However I left the ignition on while working on it with the light on (old bike had no off switch for the light) in order to stop the alarm activating.

meant to turn ignition on then off and leave key in for that purpose but got distracted, now tried to start a few times so low battery.
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