Torque Wrench

[-Matt-]

Hi.

Im just starting to begin doing my own servicing having relied on garages upto now. Ive been getting a collection of tools together including a torque wrench (28-210nm range). Would this do the job for tightening to 24-26nm as various bolts on my bike are requiring or would tightening to 28nm be too much/inaccurate being the bottom of the wrenchs range.

I know a lot of people tighten the lower torques by feel but at the stage im at mechanically and for peace of mind id prefer to wrench them for now. Just want to see if i can avoid needing to get a 5-25nm wrench as its not cheap and most of the lower end im happy to do by feel.

Thanks for any advice people have. Apologies for the beginner questions

[Islander]

Quick reply - No. The minimum setting is the minimum.

[-Matt-]

Was worried that might be the case looks like i need to invest in a second wrench thanks

[RhynoCZ]

The only job you should do with a torque wrench is tightening the head back to it's place or getting the crank case back together. Other then that is useless piece of equipment + lot's of those are not calibrated right.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Islander]

I'd disagree with that. Apart from learning how much torque to apply by feel using a torque wrench, it's useful for tightening things like sump drain plugs, oil filter bolts and other things that may be stripped or damaged by over tightening or be dangerous if under tightened. The aren't just for head and crankcase bolts by any means.

[sickpup]

[-Matt-]

I probably am being a bit perfectionist wanting to torque it all but particularly as im quite new to working on my bike i figure ill play it extra safe for now at least

Got a new wrench now so ive got 8-100nm and 28-240nm wrenches
Is there much truth in most wrenches bottom 20% of their range being quite inaccurate or was this the case with older wrenches if anyone knows?

Thanks for the opinions and advice all

[-Matt-]

Double posted sorry

[cimbian]

[Islander]

[Islander]

[Fizzer Thou]

[Polarbear]

[.....]

There's nothing more satisfying than the click of a torque wrench.

I did an oil and filter change yesterday and the tightening torque of the bolts ranged from 10Nm to 30Nm. If I was doing it by feel I'd have probably over tightened the 10Nm and under tightened the 30Nm.

However, if it feels wrong, just double check you've got the right setting for the thing you're doing up, don't learn the hard way

[RhynoCZ]

My mate told me how to tighten bolts, screws, nuts and where should I be careful, and so far everything I did on any bike works just fine.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Islander]

[SQL]

I don't even own a torque wrench, just make it tight ... unless its case or head bolts.

[pikey666]

those seem like a pretty wide range for accurate use, at work (bicycle mechanic) we use 1-20, an 8-60 and a 20-100 and find that where ranges of the wrenches overlap the wrench with the higher overall rating often makes things a little tighter for the same given reading.
i guess similar to Fizzers comment above about which part of the range to be calibrated to most accurate.

[MarJay]

You should always torque brake caliper bolts, spindle nuts, monoshock suspension components, engine mounts, clutch nuts, brake disc bolts, yoke bolts, and handlebar clamps correctly. If you don't do that, then you're asking for trouble IMO.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[-Matt-]

Thanks for all the comments everyone - made me glad I got the wrenches at least, would of made a tool of myself otherwise I think

The 28-240nm wrench I got is a challenge one from argos - funnily enough doesn't have calibration certificate only instructions/12 year warranty perhaps an indication it might not be the most reliable?

[Fizzer Thou]

With referance to marjays comment I agree.

Except that in places I disagree with the torque wrench settings given in the Yamaha manual for my R1.They specify 150Nm for the rear wheel nut and 125Nm for the swing-arm nut.Even the sprocket nuts are specified as 69Nm.All far too tight in my opinion.
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Timmeh]

150? fuck that.

I torque just about everything, although I tend to use my judgement rather than the dial on things like carb float bowls and anything else that uses mild steel fasteners.

When it comes to rear spindles I tend to just stand on the spanner and use my body weight rather than using using a wrench.
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GSXR400 x2 | '94 RVF400 | '93 TZR125 4DL (again)
20:22:30 BLUEX5: i would love to be forced to undergo a**l plugging with different sizes
20:48:18 Temeluchus: comp you hunk of smouldering homos3x you

[EazyDuz]

Get a low level torque wrench as thats most important for doing up bolts into ally for example, never need more than 7ftlb roughly, and its SO easy to overtighten.

My Sealey one has been calibrated by a human and comes with the signed paperwork to prove it. It has been very useful when i changed my clutch plates and doing exhaust bolts back up.
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To shreds you say? Tss tss tss