Piston Pliers?

[johnsmith222]

Hi guys.

This is the first time I've had a bike with the bucket type brake pistons. (My ZZR had some cork stuff that isn't supposed to get removed).

my question is how good are these pliers for removing siezed pistons?

I will obviously try and get them all out as much as possible while the calipers are still on the bike.

I don't want to be getting these pliers if they're only good at removing pistons from calipers in good condition. If these ones are rubbish then feel free to recommend other sets.

https://www.sealey.co.uk/Images/Products/175/VS1806.png

Thanks for any help.

[stinkwheel]

Is there a reason you can't pump them out?

If the hydraulic pressure of the braking system can't shift them, a pair of pliers certainly won't.

I usually take the calliper off the disk but leave the pads in and pump away until the pistons are all up against the pads, then take one of the pads out and carry on. Depending on the depth of the pistons, this will either have them out or nearly out. I keep going, sometimes substituting the pad for a metal plate until the pistons are all nearly all the way out, then you can usually wiggle them out by hand.

In one extreme case, I had to pump one piston all the way out, clean it up, change the seal, put it back, bleed the calliper then pump the other one out.
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[johnsmith222]

[Matt B]

Alternatively. Remove the pads but leave the caliper on the bike and pump the pistons until they are stopped by the disc (thin bit of cornflake pack cardboard between the disc and the pistons if you want). That gets them most of the way out.
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[chris-red]

I got sickpup to do mine at 7am while he was half naked.

He used a set of these I believe.

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?code=3673

Made it really easy, if I ever have to do it again, I'd by a set of them.
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[mysterious_rider]

zzr's use bucket brake pistons aswell? What do you mean cork.

The trick to remove the buckets is simple, just pump the brakes with the pads out, if one piston comes out more than the other, use mole grips to hold it back a bit, pump some more, until they are equal. They will come out easily then.
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[chris-red]

[johnsmith222]

[Islander]

They call the inserts piston isolators - they serve much the same purpose as the anti-squeal shims fitted to some calipers.

I've got a pair of those pliers, they're fine but they do have a design flaw in that the adjustment bolt will bypass the handle because the metal guide will deform unless you clamp it with a pair of small moles or similar. They also won't remove badly stuck or seized pistons.

Use the method Stinkwheel suggests. I just use an offcut of thin ply to stop the pistons from actually popping out but you'll have to experiment. If you're careful you can get them to the point where they're almost out - down to the last mm or so - and then they'll wiggle free. Don't forget to stick a drain bowl under the caliper. I've had to use the rebuild one piston and pot, refit, bleed and drive the second out a couple of times. It takes a wee bit longer but it works and more importantly it won't damage your pistons.

[stirlinggaz]

hi,
found piston pliers useless for seized pistons.
if the caliper is already split &/or fluid has been drained, i find the airline method best though its probably the most dangerous
remove bleed nipple & connect airline to threads, ptfe tape is handy & blow the f*cker out!
BUT remember to clamp the other piston(s) (presuming its not a single piston type) with g-clamp & piece of wood... AND remember that piston will shoot out like a bullet so keep your fingers out of the way & aim it towards soft ground.

then thoroughly clean caliper, especially in seal grooves, replace seals & shove piston back in by hand (suitably lubed)

quite fancy that laser piston removal thingy though.....

cheers,
GAZ

[oldbiker]

pump them out with an easy blead, then use a bit of rubber lube or vaseline to help ease the new ones past the new seals
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