Repairing your bike for morons

[Commuter_Tim]

Hi

I've been lurking on BCF for a bit now, I've read some helpful stuff, and some mental stuff (the second thread I read on here was the bad AIDS one), only just signed up though, as the more sane ones of you seem to be very helpful.
I've been riding a scooter for over a year then I decided to upgrade to a manual bike a few months ago, My CG 125 and haven't looked back since.

Ive started to try my hand at repairing my bike myself tho, after meeting a few joker "mechanics" I figured I can't do much of a worse job than some of them, and I'm fairly proficient at repairing woodwork and computers, some of the skills must be transferable... right?

Anyway I've been reading through my Haynes manual learning as much as I can, so far I've only done the very basics like learning how to properly clean and re lube the chain, clutch cable, and how to clean the brakes, adjusting clutch and gear lever, repairing switches with wd40 etc, so real rookie stuff.

I figure the next step since its a bit rusted is changing my drive chain, by the looks of it from watching youtube videos it shouldn't be too difficult, the main things I gather I should watch out for are not making the chain too loose or it will come off mid ride and I die... and also to make sure that the wheel is correctly aligned before I ride, or the frame buckles and I die...

So I guess my question is, Is this the type of job I should be attempting to learn by myself? I'm fairly inquisitive and still persevere when fixing things and it goes a bit off course, usually keep a level head.
However I like to be as informed as possible as to what may go wrong, so I can prepare for it.
Are there any tips you fine folks can give me on how to make sure the wheel is correctly aligned? or anything else I should watch out for when loosening the wheel to change the drive chain?
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The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.

[yen_powell]

Think about the order you change stuff in.

If you loosen the front sprocket bolt or bolts first you can leave the bike in gear, stand on the rear brake and the old chain will hold the sprocket still for you whilst you loosen it. Pop the new sprocket on and tighten the same way.

Slacken off the rear sprocket bolts a little, using the old chain and rear brake and first gear thing again. Then remove the rear wheel and swap the rear sprockets over. Put the wheel back on.

Now you can split the old chain, run the new one around the sprockets ending with the joint on the rear sprocket so it holds all the bits together when you come to rivet it or fit the fish plate depending what sort of chain you are using.
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Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[Robby]

If you're changing the chain but leaving the sprockets, you can do it a very easy way. Remove the split link, connect the new chain up to the end of the old one and pull it through that way. Then connect the two ends of the new chain together with the split link and away you go.

Make sure that the open end of the split link is facing away from the direction of travel.

[BillyJ]

[Brick_Top]

If your chain is rusted then it seems likely that your sprocket are spent too.

I would be looking at replacing the chain and sprockets as a kit, the sprockets are the cheap part.

It's an easy job really.

As for rear wheel alignment it's common sense really, there are usually markings on the chain adjusters on the swing arm, make sure they are both on the same marking. Some have bolts that stick out the back of the swing arm, check they are both protruding the same amount.

Once you've done all this, if you aren't confident in what you've done you can spin the rear wheel, holding something like a screwdriver against the swing arm and close to the rim.

The wheel may be slightly untrue but you should be able to check the alignment by measuring the run out against the screwdriver/swingarm as the wheel spins.

[Sako]

Chain and sprockets wear as a 'set', if replacing the chain I would advise replacing both sprockets also.

[ZRX61]

[Commuter_Tim]

Many thanks for the replies!

TBH the chain doesn't necessarily need replacing just yet, I've been having problems with a slippy clutch (as with most CG owners I hear), and I'm systematically replacing what I can to nail it down, Ive cleaned and re-lubed clutch cable, re-adjusted it at both ends, and cleaned about every other part of the bike.
There is rust in places on the chain but its minor at best, but I figure it cant hurt to go new, who knows what happened to the bike since 1998.

Next step if all else fails I guess would be getting clutch plates replaced, is that a time consuming job for a mechanic?

I found out a new chain was £25, nothing in the scheme of things, I actually took it to a local repair place and the cost wasn't much.
I could tell by the sound of his voice he knew it kinda didn't need to be changed, but I already knew that, either way it seems kind of slack, so needs adjusting, and they're gonna charge me either way, He said the sprockets definitely don't have much wear on them, I think I'm gonna let them change the chain this time, may ask if I can watch as they do it tho.

Can anybody recommend a decent torque wrench for future? are the Draper ones OK? I usually buy Draper tools for woodwork.

I think afterwards I may try adjusting the wheel to make sure I'm able to correctly and will definitely try this...

[Brick_Top]

[smegballs]

If you my chance can get hold of some scrapped engine casings or the like, it's a useful exercise to deliberately round out steel bolts in ally threads and get a fell for what you can get away with.

I do everything by feel and I've only ever stripped a few (lucking non critical bits) when I started out, and never had anything come loose on me.

[Commuter_Tim]

Taking your advice and will be buying that £75 halfords torque wrench. looks miles better than the draper equivalents.
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The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.

[MatteyA]

Chainging the chain and sprockets isnt that hard, you'll be fine. Just take you time and think about what your doing, if your really worried just take a few photos as you go, then if your not sure where something came from/which way round it goes you can look and see what it was like before.

Make sure you dont overtighten the chain either btw, look at the haynes for the right tension, and be a bit on the slack side, as a chain too tight is worse than a chain too loose. Too tight and it puts preassure on the bearing behind the front sprocket, which can lead to premature failure, and its very difficult to replace.

I have a cheapo draper torque wrench ive been using for everything on my cbf 125, has been absolutely fine, but if you can afford a better one then its probably a good idea.
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CBF 125